Elia

I use a very well sharpened 4H lead in a mechanical pencil. Thanks for your kind compliment.
 
As for "Do I paint? Don't I paint?", I have one suggested solution. Build two models!
 
The stern looks like it's shaping up well, Mark. I like your micro-adjustable support. 

Remco,
 
Interesting!  Could that possibly say "Steam Funnel"? on the deck right above the galley?   Since this is on a lower deck than usual, maybe there was some apparatus (besides just a hatch grating) to disperse cooking steam as well as, and separate from, the chimney which took care of combustion gases?
 
My other observation is that I believe the typical "Brodie" stove needed access all around.   That makes me wonder what the U shaped object is, which is backed up to a bulkhead.  And what is the object on the deck directly above it.
 
Cheers,
Ron

Remco,
 
There's certainly no doubt about the two labels 'Galley' and 'Chimney', so that would seem clear.
 
I can't quite make out the writing on the other opening, but it does look rather like a coaming.
 
I've tried to enhance the contrast two of your pictures but I still can't make out the writing - perhaps you'll have better luck.
 


 
John

Thanks Karl.
 
Mark, John, glad to have given you a nice idea back, I got lots from your log.
 
So not a progress picture but a question.
 
While studying the deck plans to prepare my lower deck layout I noticed something that's puzzling me. All of the Swann models I've seen have the galley on the upper deck but my drawings from the Kingfisher suggest the stove is on the lower deck. Could this be right? It could fit between the bulkhead of the boatswains strore room and the riding bitts. Allthough the U shaped object drawn in, is smaller than a galley stove
 

 

 
On the upper deck there is a notation for the chimney and something I cannot make out
 

 

 
The square part aft of the chimney location looks like the layout of a coaming for a grating
 
Remco
 
 

Jim, thanks for enhancing the picture, Ron's right, it say's steam funnel. When I look at my original NMM copy I can see it now. 
Gary thanks for pointing me to your references. It's clear the Kingfisher could not have a real Brodie stove. Although when I did more research I found that iron fire hearths "had become fairly general in 1757" (Lavery, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815 p197) so a Brodie style stove was used in the era KF was designed and build. More sources show a lot of Brodie style stoves, but Mr Alexander Brodie was so clever to apply for a patent  and become exclusive supplier for almost 30 years until Lamb & Nicholson took over. 
 
Lavery also shows a brick hearth of 1741 with a shape exactly the same as the U shape on my plan. 
 

 
So interesting that while iron stoves were a big improvement over brick hearths the NMM plan still has the more 'obsolete' on it. How it was eventually build on the Kingfisher we will probably never know. But nice to do a little research on the topic. 
 
Now back to how I will proceed. Because there are more differences from the actual KF and the model I'm building. A few years back (well into the build) when I got my NMM plans I noticed that KF has an additional gun port on each side. The 'kit' where my build started from omitted this. Also, and I noticed this studying the deck plan this week, the lower deck is in two sections, you can see this on one of the previous pictures. The aft part is 12" higher.  So apart from the boxing around the hawseholes my ship is anything but the Kingfisher.
 
Time to rename her? But to what....
 
Remco

Fire hearth is what occurred to me also, seeing the 'U' shaped layout. As this was an extremely heavy item with its brickwork, etc, it makes sense that it would be placed lower in the ship that the conventional Brodie style stove. I concur with Gary. Also, the steam funnel would be necessary to vent the area in addition to the hearth's flue for smoke.

Hi Remco.
I may have a answer for you. According to David Lyon's book The Sailing Navy List, Kingfisher was built in 1770 which and was  burnt in 1778. My  reason for bringing up the 1778 date is the English Navy didn't start using the Brodie stove untill 1781, when the enter into a contract to buy them.  She probably had the fire heath of the old type. From looking in Goodwin's book, The Sailing Man of War, there is a  fire hearth  of 1770, on page 161. From looking at it, one would not need to get all the way around it. Hope this is of some help sir. Ron I do believe that the u shape is were the fire heath it self set sir, and the one grate aft of the Chimney was a steam grate as you said, I do believe. The big pot of the fire hearth probably sat right below it.  
 Gary

Fellow ship builders. A small update from a visual point of view, but rather big from a time perspective..
 
I am detailing the deck, starting my way from the bow. The holes for the deadeyes are drilled trough the main rail and further trough the respective stanchion.
 
Thanks for dropping by.
/Alfons
 

Continuing work on the cutter
 
 
After installing the footwaling, the aft platform needed to be cut and installed.  This was made as a "solid" platform.   I cut a guide out of card and used it to trace the rough shape--
 

 
 
This was sanded until it fit reasonably well--
 

 
 
Unfortunately, the platform didn't sit low enough.  Furthermore, and after looking at other model photos, I concluded that the "filler" piece I had put between the platform and the footwaling was a figment of my imagination (but wouldn't it be good to have something there to keep things from rolling under the platform and getting lost?).   The best way to get the platform to sit lower was to notch it around the hull framing, and also notch the upper piece of footwaling.  So, along with removing the filler piece, this I did--
 

 
 
The underside of the platform is not pretty or correct, but that doesn't matter--
 
 
 
 
Looking at these posted photos, the difference in elevation of the platform is hard to see, but it is actually significant, at this scale and detail level.
 
I've put a coat of finish on the platform, footwaling, and interior framing, and the next step will be to install the rising pieces--they support the thwarts.  To the left are some spacing jigs that I made to help me get the risings placed correctly--
 

 
 
Ron

Bulkheads all fit as they should now. Today I started laying out the keel pieces on the Wenge wood replacement. After trying to mark out the patterns with assorted white pencils, I decided to cut typing paper to board size, coated the paper using a Elmer's glue stick. I then surface sanded the board barely wiping it clean. Finally, I applied the paper to the wood and ready to trace kit supplied pieces on to it.
Below are pictures of the steps.
I work the next couple of days so I'll probably cut these out on my new scroll saw, (Thank to my Admiral!) Friday night
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill
 

 

 

 
 

More completed Perseverance Pics from Hornet .......

This came up in a build log, where I commented on the use of a certain product, and the hazards associated with it. Another member commented that he had used it many times before without experiencing any problems.  It got me wondering how many people have actually bothered to find out all they could about some of the hazardous chemicals we expose ourselves to in the name of the hobby, and more importantly how to deal with the toxic effects of accidental ingestion, inhalation, or contact with skin.
 
The product in the aforementioned post was Squadron Putty. So I went looking for it's MSDS (That would be the "Material Safety Data Sheet"). I don't know about Europe or the rest of the world, but in North America, as part of workplace safety, every chemical has to have one of these sheets (even the fuel we put in our vehicles has one). These sheets list all the properties of a substance, its chemical make up, toxicological effects, protective measures and first aid.
 
Have a look: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/msds/Squadron%20white%20putty%20msds.pdf
 
Just a thought that maybe we could help to educate ourselves, and provide a resource for other modelers in helping them with questions about these chemicals. Make a list of links to MSDS sheets that we find online, with the ultimate goal of compiling and consolidating it into a single page of links.
 
Andy

Hello, I have finished assembling of cant frames.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Erecting cant frames
 

 

 

Another photos...
 

         

Another photos...
 
 

My model shipway.
 

 

 

 

thanks for your comments ... here are some other photos...
 

 
 

 

 
 

 
 

here are some photos of the naiad in construction...
 

 
 
http://i.imgbox.com/adbOFtmU.jpg
 
 

 
 

 

Thank you all very much for your comments!
 
Snow and bitter cold in upstate New York today.   So I stayed home from work. 
 
Most of the morning I spent researching; trying to come to grips with many details of the cutter.  Chapelle's plan gave me the hull shape, but little else.  I looked at some ships' boat models on the Russian forum, which were very helpful; and I went through the plans available on the NMM.  I came back to an 1808  22' cutter that had very similar lines to (though significantly broader, and a little longer than) mine.   There was a lot of detail on this plan to fill in the blanks, and I think it will adapt fairly easily to my somewhat shorter hull.
 
I made the keelson, glued that in place, then started with the foot boards.  I figured I could end these just past where the aft platform will be, but I wasn't sure how far forward to take them.  Some boats on the Russian forum took them all the way to the stem, so I copied this.  I glued some temporary spacers, and a dab of glue on each frame--
 

 
 
First pair of foot boards in place.   On top of the plug I sketched the plan of the thwart locations.  The bow area is still a little unresolved, but this will be the general scheme of things.  I had assumed there needed to be an even number of oars (if single banked), but the NMM draft for the 22 foot cutter showed 5 single banked oars.   I guess the three rowers on the starboard side don't need to work as hard!
 
 
 
 
 
Another pair of footboards, and the footwaling is done--
 

 
 
Taking a break now to post this, and plan the next steps.
 
Ron

Beautiful, Ron, beautiful. A little jewel of a boat.
 
Elia

Getting those carlings to run smoothly is tricky. I use a flexible batten on the beams to mark out the run of them before cutting them in. You might try that. The example here is of the fire ship Comet of 1783.

Hi everyone,
 
I finally got time over the holidays to get back into the shop and to check out the website. Thank you Ron, and Sailor 123... for your comments. The 74 gun ship of the mid 18th century has the perfect balance of form and function--I learn something new every day about how elegantly the shipwrights met a functional need with a beautiful form. Guy, I would be happy to see anything you might turn up on the Bellona.
 
I finally finished the gun deck framing. I did it in record time, compared to my previous work. I followed Gaetan's advice from some time ago, to keep working systematically at the same task, and it will become easier and faster. I worked out a systematic way of numbering the ledges, and I was able to do each process on each piece, before going back to do the next process on each piece. It helped with a rhythm, and it meant the whole deck was built up in each stage. It was harder that way to say that I had finished a few more bays, and could come back later for the remaining bays. I had to keep working to see any real progress, and then it was all done. It seemed to work for me!
 
I counted up. There are 525 pieces in the deck framing itself--beams, carlings, ledges, and knees. And 856 mortices.
 
I am moving on to framing the stern, for a nice change of scenery. I have made some very interesting discoveries about the Bellona framing, while drafting it up. More on that later.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 

Thank you all, for your support and kind words.
 
I challenged myself that I wouldn't make another post until I finished the frames.  I didn't think this was very much of a challenge, as I thought it would be four or five hours work to do the half frames.   Now it is ten hours later (where does the time go?) and I can report progress.
 
I spent much of the day in this situation--
 

 
 
Some frames, having been wet and heated, are clamped to set the curvature, while I hold a freshly glued frame in place with my fingers until the glue sets.  The boat is in there, somewhere.
 
 
Here, the last two frames are clamped to set the curve--
 

 
 
I dropped the boat onto my wood floor twice.  The second time I had four clothespins attached, and I was sure some planking would spring loose, but there were no ill effects.
 
Now all frames are done.  I think.  There are a few that draw my eye due to uneven placement.  I don't know yet whether I will adjust them.
 

 
 
In this view they look more uniform--
 

 
 
There is still quite a lot to do on this boat--
 

 
 
Cheers,
Ron

Thanks, John!
 
Here I have all but one of the full frames bent and labeled.  As I did each one I marked a small "x" on the top of the plug to help me remember which I had done as I went along--
 

 
 
A comparison between a rough frame and a sanded frame--
 

 
 
A few of the frames glued in, and another unfinished frame for comparison--
 
 
 
 
Carefully sanding a frame, first on the inside, for smoothness.  220, then 320, then 600 grit--
 
 
 
 
Then scrubbing on flat sandpaper for the sided dimension, 220, then 600.  I ended up leaving the frames about 3/64 inch wide--
 

 
 
Then the outside (the face to be glued to the planks) was sanded with a small strip of 150 grit sandpaper to reduce the frame to a final thickness of 1/32 inch--
 

 
 
Then the frame can be glued into place.  The clothespins are holding the "pre-bend" of last full frame as it dries.  The frame just glued in hasn't had it's ends trimmed yet--
 

 
 
Current progress with all the full frames glued in--
 

 

 
 
Ron