Elia

Interesting discussion, unfortunately my NMM plans don't show the position of the lanterns.
 
Meanwhile I've made some storage space for the galley, I wasn't pleased with MKI
 

 
so I build MKII with thinner hinges and a working drawer. Behind it I'll make an open cupboard.
 

 

 
Remco
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 44 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting.
 
Work continued on the iron strapping with some breaks to work on other things.  Other things included installing wood members over the strapped areas.  In the first picture a portion of the lower deck clamp is being glued to the frames.
 

 
The forward section of the upper deck clamp has been installed at the top of the strapped area.  As soon as the clamps are removed when the glue has dried, these members are immediately bolted through the frames with copper wire bolts epoxied all the way through the hole, making an extremely strong connection.
 
In the next picture a section of bilge ceiling is being installed.  These heavy members will fill the area up to the lower deck clamp.
 

 
There will also be a few strakes of bilge ceiling below the installed strakes.  The iron strapping will also be extended down to the floor heads.  The next picture shows one of these extensions.  The break in these straps will occur behind frames and will not be visible.
 
The next picture shows additional deck clamp sections installed, including forward sections of the middle deck clamp.
 

 
All these members are epoxy bolted as described above. 
 
Before progressing much further aft with the iron strapping, I wanted to get the aft half-frames bolted securely.  They have been held in place since installation only by the end-grain glue joints.  I did not want to risk breaking these with the hammering of the strap rivets.  Before installing bolts on these frames they needed to be faired.  This is easier before the copper bolts are in place.
 
In the next picture 80-grit sandpaper is being used on the feet of the cant frames to bring them flush with the deadwood.
 

 
In the next picture all of the cant and half frames have been faired at their feet. The cant frames, in their scores, end right at the bearding line line.  However, the half-frames are not installed in scores but bolted directly to the deadwood.  These were not faired to a feather edge at the line but were cut back to about a 3” thickness above the line.  The triangular gap was covered with planking.  It acted as a limber, or drainage channel, for water that would otherwise accumulate between frames and in the joints between the frames and the deadwood.  This feature was evidently not included at the feet of the cant frames. 
 
The next picture shows the feet of the half-frames being squared off above the bearding line.
 

 
There will be more to say later about the path of this water to the pumps.
 
With the model inverted it was a good time to fair the deadwood back to the rabbets in the keel and sternpost.  The next picture shows a shallow gouge being used to rough out the shape above the keel rabbet.
 

 
This can be risky if not done carefully.  In the picture the curl of shaving shows that the gouge is moving parallel to the keel using the pressure of my thumb.  I find that cuts go easier at an angle to the edge, slicing the wood -  and it is never a good idea to cut toward the rabbet.  The gouge is moving in the same direction in the next picture – held as in the last picture with the left hand, in this case pulled gently with the right – always with very light cuts.  Do not attempt this with a dull tool.
 

 
In the next picture a #0 cut riffler is being used to smooth out the gouge marks.  This was followed by 120 then 220-grit paper.
 

 
The last picture shows the feet of the half and cant frames after the sanding.
 
 
 
With the final lines of the frame bottoms established the bolt holes were laid out and drilled.  These are now ready for the bolts.
 
There is a lot more sanding to be done on the lower hull, but this much was sufficient to get the bolts in.  Now for the other side.
 
 Ed

After studying the photos, I decided I didn't have the barrels right.  So I did some rework and came up with this:
 

 
 
On the ship it looks a bit large scale wise.  I'm trying to decide if it adds to the ship or should be 'chucked.' 

 
I also worked on the bow sprint, but ended up with a limp guy (wire).  I cut if off and started over.  In the process I accidently cut the ring I had soldered shut at the cut water, so the new one will not be soldered.  I'm also beginning to regret my decision to paint all of the metal black.  It just doesn't show as much as I'd like for all the work that it is.
 

Thank you Druxey, Alex, Max.
 
More doors, more bulkheads make up the carpenters store room and the carpenters cabin. 
 

 

 

 
There's also one between the bitts creating a small workspace for the cook. Let's see what I can do with that, I think a big cupboard makes sense.
 

 

 

 
Remco
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 43 – Bilge Ceiling, Iron Strapping
 
Historical Clipper Note: A number of different structures were installed inside clipper ship hulls to increase strength and help defeat hogging, the most serious structural threat to wooden ships apart from rot.  Hogging is the tendency of hulls to droop at the ends.  It resulted from the reduced buoyancy at the ends of ships as the flotation area of the hull got smaller.  It was further aggravated by localized stresses as waves passed under the hull.  This was a particular problem in clipper hulls that were very long and had very fine lines fore and aft.
 
In addition to large keelsons, weight reductions at the ends, moving foremasts aft and some features discussed in earlier posts, additional structural members inside the hull were also used.  These varied from builder to builder.  These included massive additional keelsons in the area of the floor heads, various forms of heavy ceiling timbers, long diagonal wood “pointers” and ironwork.  From what we know of William Webb’s designs, he seemed to favor thick “bilge ceilings” – bands of heavy planking from below the lower futtock heads up to the lower deck clamps - rather than bilge keelsons or pointers.
 
An 8” to 7” thick bilge ceiling and iron strapping were the most likely combination used in Young America and that will be the configuration I will use on the model
 
After some deliberation – discussed in earlier posts – I finally decided to install the strapping on the inside of the frames.  Although this is not known to be the original configuration, it is most likely based on some references and Webb’ practice on other ships.
 
The strapping was installed on the frames under the ceiling planking.  Because installing the strapping requires some hammering on the frames to rivet the straps in place, I wanted to get a couple of ceiling strakes in place to make the frame structure stronger before beginning the strapping.
 
The first picture shows the first strake of the bilge ceiling being installed.  These are 8” x 8” members bolted through the frames from a few feet above the floor  heads decreasing in thickness to 7” up to the lower deck clamp
 

 
The strake being installed is at the heads of the lower futtocks.  This strake and the others in the band, follow the curve of these futtock head joints.  Fore and aft they converge under the lower deck clamp to form a sort of truss to resist bending of the hull.  This was definitely the configuration when bilge keelsons were used and it is likely the bilge ceilings followed this practice.  Once this line is set by the first strake the others above and below it will be installed.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the bolting and one of the joint scarphs.
 

 
Copper wire bolts have been epoxied through the frames.  The dark area is isopropanol used to wash off the epoxy – not yet dry.  Epoxy will help assure that the wire will act as true through bolts.  In practice these were iron, so they will be blackened before final finishing.  The second bolt at each frame pair will be modeled using black monofilament.
 
The next picture shows the copper bolts coming through the frames outside.
 

 
These will be clipped off and sanded flush as part of the external fairing process.  It can be seen that the bolts come through the lower futtocks just below the heads.  I am considering leaving a few view ports on the exposed framing side of the hull.  The bottom of these open areas would be at the floor heads, so the bolted inside members should provide plenty of strength around the openings. The tops of these openings will probably be at the middle deck clamps.
 
With a stretch of ceiling in place I was anxious to try out some iron strapping. The first picture shows the installation of a test area.
 

 
I decided I wanted no part of recessing all these into the frames.  For the most part they will be covered with inboard planking and will only be visible between frames on the outside, through the view ports if installed, and down through unplanked deck areas.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the straps and their fasteners.
 

 
I used .005” copper for the straps, cutting them to size with a paper cutter, and then stretching to straighten them.  I considered using .010” strips but these would require recesses.  The thinner material should not affect the planking glue joints.  Planks will also be bolted so should be quite secure.  The difference in thickness is virtually undetectable visually.  The actual thickness would probably be somewhere between the two sizes.
 
The straps are held in place by copper rivets - 22 gauge copper wire – some through and some partially through as “blunts”.  Like the real bolts, the heads are peened over to secure the strips.  I initially tried to get all of the intersections on frames for bolting, hence some uneven spacing in this first area.  I will not describe all the steps in detail – or the journey up the learning curve to get acceptable-looking straps.
 
These must of course be blackened before being planked over – to avoid glue spots that would interfere with the etching.
 
The next picture from outside the hull shows some strapping blackened using liver of sulfur solution.  This will be the predominant viewpoint for this feature.
 

 
This picture shows some inevitable crossing of straps between frames.  I doubt that I will try to rivet these intersections as was done in practice, except where they fall over a frame.  A few strapping rivet heads can be seen on the outside of the frames.
 
The strapping will be installed over the full length of the hull up to the upper deck clamps.  The next picture shows some correctly sized clamp material – for the lower and upper decks - temporarily held in place,
 

 
This shows the convergence of the ceiling and the lower deck clamp mentioned above.  The 7 to 8” bilge ceiling would fill the area below the lower deck plank and continue for a few more strakes below those installed in this picture.
 
The straps will be cut off above the upper deck clamp.  The strapping is fully extended forward in this picture.  The middle deck clamp will fall midway between the two shown.
 
I now foresee a considerable amount of strapping work, punctuated with some bilge ceiling and perhaps deck clamp installation.  Should be interesting.
 
 Ed

Thanks all.
 
Yuk Grant
 
Sure Daniel, the joints are tinted with graphite to enhance the joints. Otherwise the joints are almost invisible and the bulkhead will look like its made from one piece.
 


 
Time to make some lanterns, the mullions were completely prepared on the table saw assembling was quite simple, once complete they were sanded down to the appropriate thickness
 

 

 

 

 
Here they are temporary in place, I still need to add a vent but I'm not sure how long to make it, TFFM describes it should clear the deck head. Should it face away from the bulkhead or go up to the upper deck, some advice would be appreciated how I need to interpret this.
 
Remco
 
 

No can do John , but I can tell you it was a nice little project I can recommend to every one. Those shallow drawers are just great. Next to this I use Ikea's little boxes to store other tools and supply's unfortunately they don't sell this type any more, a real shame. I'm still looking for a better way to organize my sanding paper, keeping them in a big stack is not working...
 

 
So back to making bulkheads, I use wooden peg's under the stanchions to temporary fit and adjust until I'm getting a fit I like. 
 

 

 

 
The cook's working space was not very big. Behind the riding bitt's there is another bulkhead drawn on my plan I thin I'll make a nice cupboard for the cook to store his pot's, pan's and other tools.
 
 
 

Okay, to show everybody the design details for deploying the mines, I'll add a few copies of drawings for yuns to get a good idea.
 
There are still a few questions I have about the actual design inside the ballast tank but for our purpose that's not an issue.
 
There is a lot of detail on the drawing Remco posted with his comment and I could decipher most of the language, which helped my to get a real good understanding of the design and the mine securing mechanism.
 
Okay, here are a few pics.
 

This is the body plan of the original Navy project for a mine laying sub they designated as the O17.  This was in 1934.  That's 80 years ago - - - and the year I was born!
 

This is the revised body plan by Engineer G. de Rooy.  This is what was used to build the K XIX, later renamed to O19.
 

This is the same copy Remco showed.  It's rather small and I had this drawing blown up and printed out by a local printshop.  There is a lot of detail on these pics that makes it very clear how it was done.  You can also see that it was from the original Navy plan but on the bottom on the left drawing you can see the redesign by de Rooy.  I have enlarged that portion and is shown below. 
 

This is another drawing showing the bottom of the ballast tank / mine bun area having a hole in it.  It also shows the original Navy project before de Rooy's changes were made.  
 
Admittedly I have not done any research on how mines were deployed and activated but my guess is that  the mine assembly, i.e. the mines with the sinker were dropped as a unit and upon hitting the seafloor the sinker would release the mine which then rises up tethered to a cable.  Doing it as Mark mentioned would not work for submerged deployment of the mines, it would be like instant death to the sub. 
 
Cheers,

Piet,
 
I impressed! The green really makes the boat 'pop'. It looks great!
 
To solve some mysteries...
 
The mines were loaded from the top, and launched from the bottom. Of course this happened while submerged. One of the crew members once said that he was terrified during a mine laying operation; in shallow waters with all the noise they were making while dropping mines.

 
Then, for the lettering...Check these photos:

The boat at its commissioning in den Helder. 
 

Surfacing in 1943 (Loch Long) You can see that even during the war the O19 lettering on the bow was still present!
 
Hope that helps,
 
Groetjes,
 
Gino

First of all, thanks to everyone for visiting and clicking on "like."
 
Today I cemented the torpedo loading dolly tracks to the starboard side of the deck going aft.  I used N scale flex track for the rails.  I think I mentioned in a previous post some time ago that the actual tracks were U channels where the wheels for the dolly fitted inside the U.  This was to prevent the dolly from tipping when hoisting the torpedoes from the dock.  In any case, these'll have to do - - - I won't be making the dolly anyhow - - - he says with a straight face
 
With the tracks now cemented on I can paint the deck grey in preparation for the wooden deck slats.  But before I can do that I needed to paint the starboard side green above waterline 7, the demarkation between red and green.
 
Sooooh, I took the boat outside and masked her off and wiped the white primer with some enamel thinner and then proceeded with the painting.  I first sprayed  few light coats on till tacky and then a fuller coat.  Let this get tacky and repeated that three times.  I then removed all the masking and brought the boat back inside and on the build dock to let the paint cure where no dirt could settle on the still soft paint.  
This was all done before lunch.
 
After lunch I rotated the build dock so i could drill the gezillion holes in the port side mine bun lids.  That in itself was a tedious and exacting job but it seems to look okay.  Now I have to repaint that area, which is no problem, just masking out at the skin plate seams and the wale.  That'll we do tomorrow.
 
Okay, I have made a few shots from different angles, yuns are probably sick and tiered seeing the same profile pics   
 

Starboard side masked, ready for paint.
 

All masking is removed showing the freshly painted starboard side.
 

I took the model to the front of the garage and set het on a plastic container for a few shots.  I'm thinking of a painting of her and am looking for ideas.
 

 

 

 

Here I am approaching in my P-38 for a buzz job   
 

As the lookout may see the bow plowing through the seas 
 
Cheers,

Hello Mark and thanks for dropping by and your kind words.  Hmmm, dropping mines, very good question.  Not having the drawings of the hull and ballast tanks I'm going out on a limb and guess that they were deployed from the bottom.  At least that's what my common sense engineering mind would think.  When we consider possible rough seas when on the surface that would make it a rather hairy operation.  It would also allow the mines being deployed while submerged.
I would say, no compressed air but just good old gravity.
On the other hand there are tracks on the starboard side for the torpedo loading dolly and that thing had a hoist arrangement on it.  But that leaves the question, what about the port side, no rails there?  
 
My short answer is, I really don't know for sure right now.  Perhaps Gino can shed some light on this.
 
Hoi Sjors, good to hear from you!  Well, not only mines but 5 inch shells, 40 mm AA shells and 21 inch torpedoes.  She was a lady that could and did bite.  No "cottoning" with her my friend    You can have your cotton cannon balls, rather dainty, eh what?    
 
Hi Popeye, thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Yeah, I always wonder about some of the builds that never show a boo boo and a pile of discards.  The ultimate discard was with Mark Taylor, took a lot of guts.  If I can only concentrate and pay attention more often then my rate of boo boos will go down     Glad no one can hear me when I screw up, it's then "oh shoot" and I can't spell worth a hoot either     Talking about paint - - - check the next post 
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting.
 
Today was more of  a prep day to paint the starboard side but I needed first to drill the small holes in each lid.  I laid out the pattern on each lid and then pricked dimples in the right places with a sharp awl.  This made the drilling easier, not slipping all over the place.  
I also made a "fixture" of sorts to do the port side, I forgot that before I painted that side.  Domkop me 
 
I guess it'll be ready for the green tomorrow if the weather is warm enough.  I also put another coat of red on the bottom andI need to wait for the primer coat and the red to cure before I can mask and paint it.
 
As soon as the green paint is cured I can mask the sides so I can paint the deck but first I need to cement the torp loading dolly tracks to the aft deck though.
 
Here is a shot as it currently is with the new lid in primer.
 

 
Cheers,

Thanks bob, on the new lid.  I think too, it's a keeper.
I'll use the ones Remco made, they are superb and hoping that I don't screw it up. 
 
Here are two pics with part of the draft hummers.  You can see how hard it is to read because of the resolution.   I think there is a software program that fills in the missing pixles, not sure though.
 

 

My father is on the boat during the launch.
 
Cheers,

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 42 – Internal Hull Work
 
With the hull framing finished it was time to step back and consider the right construction sequence going forward.  Rather than go to work fairing and sanding the outer hull as I has anticipated, I decided to focus next on some of the basic internal structural elements.  Installing some key internal longitudinal members will add a lot of strength to the frames, in particular the connections of the full square frames at the keel.  These joints are rather weak and may not stand up well to outside sanding.  In practice this joint was strengthened by use of a very heavy garboard strake (the plank next to the keel) that was bolted up through the floors and lower futtocks.  This 9” thick block was in turn edge bolted into the keel.  The garboard was a much more important structural member in these ships than the familiar 18C RN subjects.
 
The first step was to fair out the inboard sides of the frames.  The full square frames had been carefully checked for fairness before locking them forever into place when the keelson was installed.  The careful pre-beveling of the half and cant frames and the use of the topside ribband to set these resulted in a pretty fair surface.  A few had to be removed and reset.
 
The first picture shows the first sanding/fairing step using 120-grit paper and a “soft-sander” foam pad.
 

 
Once all the surfaces were faired out with the 120-grit paper, 220-grit was used to start smoothing the surfaces.  In the next picture a round piece of a soft-sander pad is stuck to a vibrating sander and it turn has some 220-grit paper attached to that – all with two-faced carpet tape,  A few different pad shapes were used. 
 

 
This was followed by 320-grit, using the same device.  There was also a lot of old-fashioned handwork with all this sanding.
 
In the next picture the wood is being given a final polish with #0000 steel wool.
 

 
I don’t like using steel wool very much – it leaves a lot of steel fibers lying around and this also adheres to steel tools.  But after years of searching, I have found nothing that polishes bare hardwood like steel wool, so I am using it here - #1, then #0, then #0000.  All the tools are cleared away before doing this and the shop-vac comes out frequently.
 
With the inside of the hull given its final polishing, the lines of the deck clamps were scored on the frames as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A thick pine batten was first clamped to the frames as shown.  The heights of the clamps were taken off the inboard arrangement drawing with the calipers shown below.  These will be familiar to those who followed Naiad.
 

 
To allow the measurements to be transferred to the inside of the hull a thin strip was taped on top of the original arm to fit through the frame gaps.  
 
The next picture shows the batten set at the height of the middle deck.  The lower deck clamps on both sides have been marked.  The upper (or main) deck clamps will be just below and essentially parallel to the temporary ribbands clamped to the outside of the frames.  When those clamps are installed, the outside ribbands can be removed
 

 
Removing the temporary ribbands and strengthening the framing with internal members will allow the outside of the hull to be completely faired and finish sanded from the keel up to the top rail.
 
In the next part members of the “bilge ceiling” will be installed below the line of the lower deck clamp.
 
 Ed

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

This past week, I got a little more decking done and I also added the rubrail along the sides of the hull. This is a 1/32" square piece that follows the line of the planking.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ
 
 

My general approach for fabricating and installing the beam sets has been one complete set at a time.  This worked well where there was no curvature of the hull but I had difficulty with the run of the outer carlings at the fore end of the upper deck and decided to change my approach as I neared the stern. I set out all of the beams and tack glued them in place.  I then drew fair lines for the outer carlings.  The deck beams were removed as I worked on them, only mortising the outer carlings.  The carlings were then tack glued without gluing the beam.  This continued until the last two beams.  The transom knee abuts the for end of the transom and extends along the hull just past beam 20.  It is set down on to the deck clamp and "bolted" to the frames and transom.  The last two beams are mortised into the transom knee.
 
The pictures show the run of the lateral carlings.  No finish shaping or sanding has been done yet.  I broke off the port counter timbers (again!) and just stuck it back on so that area looks out of whack.  I will probably have to remake it when it comes time to make the counter.
 

 

 

Adding 1 part at the time.

For cutting wood here are a few shots of how I cut it



This is one of the plywood blades that I use on my 10 inch tablesaw.





The blade has no set to the teeth.





A test cut to set the thickness.





This slice is .027"





Use a push stick to feed the wood through the saw.





This is the thinnest cut I was able to make with this wood and blade combination.





You can see that this wood has been darkened by the blade because it is dull and needs to be sharpened.





Using a scraper to clean up the wood in this case the wood is Maple.









The scaper is pulled towards me in single smooth strokes.





When the scraper is sharp the wood shaves off in fine curls.





Here
you can see the transition from the burned surface to the scraped one
and the small clamp holding the wood to a smooth surface. Make sure that
the support surface stays clear of dust and shavings this is because
the wood this thin has a tendency to curl up allowing dust to stick to
the underside of the slice being scraped and the support because of
static. This would create problems getting an even thickness.





The amount of wood removed with the scraper is about .002"





The finished slice that is .75" wide and .012" thick.





The slice easily bends cold and dry around a 1/2 inch radius former.

   
Michael

The photos in the Nova Scotia archives of the Bluenose show a number of barrels and a storage box which are not part of the build.  Like some others, this bothered me, so I obtained some keg shaped large barrels and created something.  There are two parts left, first, I the barrels in the photo are scuttled, so I will have to add this.  Second, I'm going to have to decide about paint.
 
I suspect these barrels held salt, but I would really appreciate any input on what else might have been in them.
 

 

 

I started putting the deck furniture and fittings on today. 
I discovered, after much detailed and secret research into hidden archives, that the bluenose actually had a "step through" fife rail.  Obviously, I had to model such a discovery, to wit:
 

 
I also worked on a paint scheme for the oars.  I haven't found anything I like yet.  BTW, there are a BOATLOAD of oars!  I did a little research today and found that oars used in deep water were held in place by various types of horns or stops, but not circular oar locks.  Circular or ring oar locks were too dangerous in open water.  I also found that some oars were/are protected by leather.  Who knew?   I still am not sure how to paint them, though.
 

 
Anyhow, this is how it looks right now.
 

 
Anyone who has good eyes can see where I repaired the fife rail.  I don't think it will ever look "right" but perhaps I can make it acceptable. 
 
I am thinking about following Jack Tar's example and adding a rack of barrels.  I noticed the ones in the old photo are scuttled on top (if I grabbed the right nautical term).  I'm wondering what was held in them.

Bedford, I don’t know why I ever doubt the force?  It always comes through. 
 
The planking is finished, the keel and the stern post are in place and the rail around the stern is on.  There’s a lot of cleanup to do but the parts are there.  Next its finish the rail and paint the hull and bulkheads, then the deck goes on.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 41 – Aft Half Frames 2
 
Now for the final hull frames.
 
The first picture shows two half frames being glued to opposite sides of the keelson using a different method of clamping than that used for the previous frames.
 

 
As the framing moves forward the frames become more full at the base. This makes the use of screw clamps increasingly awkward.  For the remaining frames the feet were held in place for the toptimber pinning and then gluing using the method shown.  Wood strips are pushed to the frame and held in place by the T-track clamps.  This proved much easier and, as is shown in the picture, frames on either side could be installed concurrently.
 
The next picture shows a closer view and also a 1:72 figure – by special request.
 

 
In the next picture a frame is being pinned to the ribband at the top while held against the keelson at the base. 
 

 
After pinning, the clamp is pulled back, glue is applied to the the joint and the clamp returned until the glue dries. 
 
The pin-indexing method of assembling frames requires that all but the toptimbers are of the same siding, in this case 12”.  The upper futtocks then need to be reduced in thickness after assembly, bevelling and removal of the patterns.  In the next picture this is being done with a flat file.
 

 
These pieces are awkward to secure in a vise, so for this work they were pinned to a piece of Homasote board through the bolt holes.
 
In the next picture, the fairness of the external hull is being checked before installing the last half frame on the side.
 

 
This is also being done on the inside in the next picture.
 

 
The frames were pre-beveled to within to within roughly 1/64” of final breadth – to the outer side of the pattern lines inboard and outboard on each face.  Where there are gaps of more than about 1/64” when checked as above, the offending frame was removed and reset.  There were only a few of these and resetting their height brought them within range.  Final sanding will finish the job.
 
In the next picture the last frame is being pinned to the ribband by bending over the end of the pin.  The foot of the frame foot was then glued to the keelson. 
 

 
Installation of this last frame was a big milestone.  The last two pictures show the full hull after completing the framing.
 

 
There is no doubt that some of the toptimbers will need to be replaced later to precisely fair the upper rails.  Hopefully the number will be few, but these small pieces are most subject to error when assembling the frames.  They are indexed in assembly by only two pins and the pins are close together.  One has already been removed below.
 

 
The hull is now ready for final fairing.
 
 Ed

It's finally warmed up to get out in the garage and peel some more wood off the Atlantic half hull.  She is starting to shape up, with some more time at the bench she should be ready for the final sanding soon.  I have to admit I didn't thing working on the Atlantic and the ELCO PT at the same time would be this much of a challenge.  The weather has made most of the decisions of which boat will be worked on at a specific time!    
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Build log part 9
 
 

different size vents
 

machine room skylights
 

ongoing Fitting out
 

cross check with plan
 

starting to look like the Heinrich Kayser
 

copper Fittings from the crafters used for Basic funnel construction, have to do some cutting though
 

 
 

 
 

angle of funnels match mast angle
 
 

 
 
 
Building log part 10 to follow