Elia

I agree with your refit Michael. The lines of the narrower cockpit flow beautifully into the cabin structure.

Useless I do not think!
 
2 methods   -p2and p3  method for picture 1
                     p4 and p5 for another kind

The last two pictures show the knees installed.
 
 

 

I have made and installed the opposed lodging knees.  Since I did not go into any detail on their construction for the lower deck, let me demonstrate how I made them.  First, I make a template of the knee and saw it out a bit oversized.  The thickness of the blank is about 2.5 times the normal thickness to allow for the curvatures.  I then mark on the blank the areas that will be removed. I use a combination of my Preac saw, Dremel sanding discs and sandpaper to remove the excess material.  The knees are given a final shaping and the bolts are added prior to installation. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 30 – Aft Square Frames 2
 
At this stage the first 15 full frames aft of 0 have been set.  The first picture shows frames 16, 17 and 18, right after inserting their bolts.  These are ready to be installed.
 

 
The next picture shows the hole being drilled for a pin on the port side of frame 16.  A bent pin in this hole will secure the top on this side of the frame to the ribband strip.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that a wood block is used to space the frame and the caliper to set the height of the ribband to the bottom of the planksheer rail.  That rail will be added much later.
 
The next picture was taken after frames 16 and 17 were erected. 
 

 
At this stage the ends of the temporary ribbands were reached.  The next picture shows work to extend the ribbands.  Setting frames using the ribbands has been a major time saver and helped get the frames into faired lines.
 

 
Connecting strips are being glued to the bottom of the existing ribbands.  The next picture shows the ribband extensions being glued on.  The “gantry” is being used to hold clamped guides the set the height and breadth of the ribbands at that position along the hull.
 

 
The gantry can be moved and the guides set at any given position.  The next picture shows another view of the hull with the extended ribbands.
 

 
In the last picture frame 18 has been installed and pinned to the ribband extensions.
 

 
The length of the hull – and the eventual size of the model are starting to become apparent.  It is really long and slender.  By way of comparison, Naiad was 147 feet long with a breadth of roughly 39 feet – an L/D ratio of roughly 3.7 to 1.  Young America had a length of 240 feet and a breadth of 43 feet – an L/D ratio of 5.6 to 1.
 
There are now 11 more full frames to install.  19, 20 and 21 are in fabrication.  22, 23 and 24 have been lofted.  After installing the last full frame - number 29 -  the keelson and aft deadwood assemblies will be completed to prepare for the half and cant frames.
 
Ed

Mark,
 
I couldn't agree more.  Unless I have a very specific measurement need I use my proportional dividers to transfer dimensions from plans to wood or template, find midpoints been model features, etc.  As with most tools paying for quality yields accurate, repeatable results time and time again.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Mark,
 
I couldn't agree more.  Unless I have a very specific measurement need I use my proportional dividers to transfer dimensions from plans to wood or template, find midpoints been model features, etc.  As with most tools paying for quality yields accurate, repeatable results time and time again.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

I probably use my proportional divider (just like the one pictured) equal to or more than any other tool at my disposal.  I hardly ever use ruler measurements.  Anything off of the plan, or for that matter off of the ship being built, is done using these as well as a multitude of other things.
 
I can't tell you how many times I need to find an accurate midpoint or just to transfer a specific dimension from one place to another.  Planking has already been stated.  With a good pair (mine cost $80) the measurements are spot on.  I seem to find more uses as time goes by.
 
Each person has to figure out what works for them, but for me I find these simplify my life greatly - and to a greater accuracy.
 
Mark

Greetings all,
 
With the weather the way it is here on the East coast, it sure makes for a good to work on the models.  No snow here, but from the football games on Television some ares are getting hit pretty hard.  Only rain and wind for Virginia Beach.  
 
Here are some photos after todays work, enjoy!
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I am applying the final touches to the hull, preparing for mounting to model to its brass stands. The ornaments at the stem required some color. This turned out to be really tricky. 
 
First try, yellow paint applied with a small brush. The paint bled, creating a mess. 

 
Having thought about different approaches I came up with the idea to use a permanent marker.

 
Second try, gold paint applied. Much easier then using a brush, but still very challenging to keep a steady hand. i did not yet decide weather to go for a third attempt.

 
/Alfons
 
 

Rigging in the making
 
From the captain's log- not much of the progress, as I spent some time to make some tiny blocks.
In the two pictures below  you can see the preparation of the main top sail.
In the third one, the main yard with  its foot rope.
 

 

 

Stelios,
 
Very nice mizzen sail. It looks perfect laced to the mizzen mast.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 29 – Aft Square Frames
 
Framing aft of frame 0 has been proceeding well over the past few days.  I have adopted a new alignment method that I will describe in this part.
 
The first picture shows frame 1 installed.  Instead of using temporary wood chocks to hold frame alignment and spacing, I decided to try and use the temporary ribbands. These are at the height of the planksheer.  I left them long, anticipating this.
 

 
The next picture shows more frames installed.
 

 
The heights of the cross-spalls in this picture are irregular because they are set down on the aft top timbers and these have been left slightly long for cutting down later.  Each spall sets the breadth of the frame accurately, however, and is center marked.
 
The next picture shows another view of the overall hull, and displays the normal cluttered state of the shipyard.
 

 
Another view from aft.
 

 
In the next picture, an assembled frame – frame 9 – with its patterns still on, is being test fit after beveling.
 

 
All of these frames are being pre-beveled to the lines on the patterns.  The next step is to remove the patterns and downsize the sidings of the upper timbers.  This cannot be done until the frames are beveled and the patterns removed.
 
In the next picture the frame has been clamped to the ribbands at the top and positioned accurately with its floor centered down on the keel.  The maximum breadth of the frame is then checked by squaring up from the base drawing.   A hole for the model bolt is being drilled.
 

 
Because of interference with the spall, the hole will be angled aft slightly.  A short pin is then inserted to hold the position.  The clamps are then removed and the frame lifted slightly to spread glue on the keel.  The pin is then driven home to secure the joint.
 
Before the glue has set the toptimbers are aligned using the spacer block in the next picture.  The caliper is set from the drawing to the height of the bottom of the planksheer rail so that will be at the correct height at each frame..
 

 
The next picture shows a closeup of the spacer block.  Its width has been sized to 23” – the spacing between frame lines in the area (32”) minus the siding of the toptimber (9”)
 

 
A pinhole has been drilled through the toptimber and the temporary pin bent over to hold the frame tight to the ribband.  The half breadth of the frame is then rechecked using a square from the the line on the base drawing.
 
This method is not only much faster and less messy than using the spacers, but pulls the frames into a fair line at the top.  If made to the pattern and beveled accurately to the profile lines, the frames should be pretty well faired when erected.  So far, that is the case.  We will see how this holds up as the bevels increase with each new frame going aft.
 
Ed

Tonight was a good night, I was able to get a couple more hours work in on the Atlantic hull. She's finally beginning to take shape and look like a schooner!
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 

Dear all,
 
The small mizzen sail proved to be relatively easy to fit. (unless if today was one of those days with inspiration...)
In the first picture one can see the process and in the second the who thing fitted on the boat. The ropes were not secured yet,as I need to have "breathing" space on the deck.
 
One of the side projects that I need to tackle, are the belaying pins. The challenge will be to make them small enough to be close to the ship's scale.
The other challenge that will be dealt with at the end, is the rope coiling; to hang  coiled rope  so to add a touch o realism.
 


 
cheers
Stelios

Hello all,
 
Hull is closed! Last planks have been shaped and mounted and after a night drying I used the band sander to shape the planks fit with the bow and stern pieces. Lots of sanding comes next - probably first with a little electric sander then with regular sandpaper.
Glass"fabric" has been ordered with low viscosity epoxy resin to seal the outside with a protective layer. Will need to read up on how this is done !
 
After that comes the point when the hull needs to be sawed in two for attaching the bayonet. brrrr.
 

 

 
 

Regards. Freek

Hallo all,
 
Planking is about 75% done, now I have to think about closing the gap and how to fix the last planks in place without using the small "vices" (klemmetjes).
Also in front of the boat the small plane I used to shape the planks and the Bajonet closure which just arrived from Norbert bruggen. Norbert is a legendary model sub builder in Germany and sells all sort of usefull parts.
 
However still lots of planking and sanding to be done!
 

Ian,
 
The hull will be 68 cm long, and 11 cm in diameter. The original boat was only 20 meters long, and the model is 1:32.
 
At 125 tons displacement, the original was small, and the model will weight approximately 4 kg and have a dive tank, most likely a plastic bag, of about 500 ml
 
inside the model I will need to fit
- a motor with speed controller
- batteries and receiver
- pump for the dive tank (bag) with its controller
- two servo motors with pushrods controlling the planes and rudder
- quite a lot of lead to give stability and make up to 4 kg.
 
The boat will be very full!
 
 
Here's another picture of the original
 

Freek

Hallo all,
 
Thanks for the kind comments on my rubber motor Torpedo's!
 
Back to planking the hull.
 
I'm shaping each plank with a mini plane, but progress is slow. I learnt I need to ensure the plank is fully pre-bent before mounting on the hull. Six planks done and I think I have the hang of it now - though at cost of removing one after it had too much tension in bow section.
 
Certainly gives me a lot of respect from those of you creating much more complex hull shapes!
 
Freek
 

 

INTERMEZZO
 
I still owe Piet a video of the K-XVIII shooting a torpedo from the deck tubes.
 
Here's a mini video build log of the work I did to make the torpedoes operational - using rubber motors as the propulsion method.
 

 
Hope you will enjoy the 5 minute film - the sub shot is right at the end
 
 
Freek

Hello all,
 
This is my first build log on the forum, and my third ship overall. The first was a Dutch Navy contemporary frigate Zr Ms de Zeven Provincien, and the second a world war 2 submarine, Hr Ms K-XVIII. Both are radio controlled and both hulls were made with the bread and butter method. That worked out very well for these larger vessels but now I intend to build a much smaller sub and will need to be much more economical with space.
 
So this will be my first hull built out of wood with planks on ribs.
 
Hr Ms O-1 was a Holland-class submarine built as a private venture by Wilton Feijenoord and sold to the Dutch Navy when it has passed some trials set as condition for her purchase. In subsequent exercises she proved very capable to defeat the then surface ships of the Dutch Navy. She patrolled the North Sea during WW1 (but thankfully the Netherlands remained neutral throughout that conflict).

The Holland boats have beautiful lines, and I was hooked when I saw a working model of an Austrian Holland class at a meeting in Lichtenstein some years back.
 
Please feel free to comment and advise as I have some experience, but little in this kind of hull building especially.
 
Groeten, Freek
 

Thanks all for your kind words!
 
Yesterday I managed to stiffen the pressure hull by inserting wooden blocks in-between the frames. This will help the planking of the hull - without taking away from the room inside the boat. The boat seems straight and next step is for me to verify the accuracy of the frames with a plank, and to start drawing the complex bow and stern pieces - which will be the end-points for the planking.
 

 
Also late last night we performed the age old ceremony of fixing an old coin in the keel. We selected a 1 Dutch cent coin (no longer in use since the euro) from my birth-year and with the image of Queen Juliana on it. This tradition hopefully assures 'een behouden vaart' - safe travels over the high sees.
 

Thanks Anja!
 
On my birthday I made the bow and stern from wood left over from my frigate project. Using a band sander I got the pieces nicely in shape and even prepared the muzzle of the single 18 inch torpedo tube that the O-1 had. More time went into checking the frames and correcting small deviations. I started making the planks, from 3 x 8 x 600 mm wood. These were narrowed at both ends and after a few hrs soaking were clamped in place to bend them into the required shape.
 
I made about 5 of 30 planks so have to do a few more!
 
Note how small O-1 is vs K-XVIII !
 

 
Freek

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 28 – "Pin-Indexing"
 
Next on the agenda is a long slog of repetitive work – making and setting the 29 full frames of the afterbody.  This will be followed by 13 pairs of half frames and 6 pairs of cants – then the eagerly anticipated circular stern
 
Essentially, this framing will be a repeat of the installation in the forebody.  I previously showed pictures and described the frame assembly using pin-indexed pieces.  This has greatly improved efficiency and accuracy in assembling the 13 pieces of each full frame pair.  This process can only be used if indexed bolt/pin holes are provided on the pattern sheets.  I thought it might be interesting to give a short overview of how that step in the lofting process was done.
 
I put this post together a few days ago thinking I might post it.  The discussion on pre-beveling of frames prompted me to do so, since the lofting described is one of the enablers for that. 
 
This is an overview only of the pin/bolt hole placement on the patterns. I will not describe the entire frame lofting process here, except to say that profiles for the true fore and aft faces of each frame must added to the normal body plan and used for lofting beveled frames.  Using profiles from the next frame forward and aft does not provide sufficient accuracy for bolt placement in beveled frames. 
 
The first image shows the fore and aft half-pattern objects for forward frame R, created from the enhanced body plan. 
 
In each pattern green is used to show the forward profiles and red for the aft profiles.
 

 
Every frame “bend” on Young America is constructed with offset, sistered fore and aft timber segments. The segments are delineated by the cut lines on each pattern.  In this image no pin holes have yet been placed on either pattern, but the objects for the hole marks are scattered to the left of the forward pattern.
 
 
The two patterns are then aligned to their final relative positions as shown below.
 

 
This is a highly beveled frame pair, as can be seen in this image.
 
With the patterns aligned, the pin/bolt hole objects are placed on the combined patterns between the line for the forward outboard profile and the aft inboard profile.  This assures that they will not break through either the inboard or outboard faces – hence the need for accurate profiles.  The placement of some of these near the top of the frame is shown below.
 

 
In this highly beveled frame, these hole objects just fit between the lines.  The actual pin/bolt holes will be smaller than these objects.  Note that the top of the forward frame is higher since it includes the stanchion for the main rail.
 
With the holes placed, the aft frame pattern object is selected along with all of the hole objects.  This combination is then copied and pasted to the right in the next image.  The aft pattern is then deleted from its position atop the forward pattern leaving just the forward frame and the original hole objects in place.  The two pattern halves now have precisely indexed pin/bolt hole marks.
 

 
The two objects in this image are then mirrored and combined to form the full frame patterns shown below.  This same basic process is also used for the half and cant frames.
 

 
After cutting out the timber segments, the patterns can then be used to drill indexing pin holes to locate the timbers on a pattern sheet for assembly and later for insertion of model bolts.  This was described in previous posts.
 
Assembly accuracy is very dependent on accurate drilling, but that is another topic.  Besides the advantages in assembly time, the final frame emerges with patterns on both fore and aft faces – one of the important enablers for pre-beveling before erection.
 
I believe this process has reduced the frame assembly time to half of what I expected so far.  The above description is, of course, simply an overview, hardly a tutorial.
 
The jury is still out on whether this and the other process features will enable frames to be completely beveled before erection.
 
Sorry, no photos.  Next time.
 
Ed
 

Lou, Blackie,
 
Thank you very much for stopping on Arethusa and for the very kind and generous comments. That yellow stripe by and large runs pretty true. It is quite thin - rather amazingly thin masking tape is the trick. There are a few spots where it wavers just a whisker, but in one location, to my eye, it's somewhat of a doosie. [the more I think and write about it the more I think of redoing it!]. Lou, it was quite some time that I was away from working on Arethusa and it is good to be back working with wood and brass. I look forward to getting the hull completed and starting on the masting and rigging.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia