Elia

Matt -
 
Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe?
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Matt -
 
Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe?
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Matt -
 
Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe?
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Matt -
 
Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe?
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Thanks Jack, Mark, Ken, David, Michael, Richard and to those who hit the like button.
 
A P Stoddart

 
This era and area(Glocester) turned out a lot of new inventions and ideas, giving way to motor power and phasing out wind power. The Stoddart Co was one of these. There was the worm drive and the Stoddart improved vessel steerer.

 
The thought crossed my mind to attempt to replicate this complex mechanism, which was soon dismissed, mostly because it all gets covered. So here's my attempt at a more realistic wheel than the kit provided part. There's over 20 pieces to this wheel which proved to test my soldering skills, I have much to learn. Maybe I should send it off to Buck to have him put the Stoddart logo on it.
 

 
This was the second rudder with pintles and gudgeons I made, having made the first rudder 1/2 as thick as it should be. Also I decided to apply Cherry Minwax to the cherry and poplar, giving it a more subtle contrast.
 

 
Onward!

First off, many apologies for my lengthy absence. It's been an extremely busy summer having spent the last few months working nights, double shifts and on the road. Right when I think life's back to normal, bam, another curve ball.
 
I've been able to steal a few minutes here and there so here's a few updates. The rails are done along with the trunk cabin.

 
Being 1:48 scale will allow for a lot of miniature items for me to practice on. This is the portable binnacle...

 
The pictures of the Edson Patent Boom Buffer were a bit small and difficult to decipher so I found this image with nice detail and sizes marked.

 
Many tiny rings were made and assembled to reach a boom buffer that's as close as I could get. I'm in the process of making a jibber box that allows the boom buffer to be seen.

 
My plan is to work from stern to bow. The next project will be the wheel, wheel box and rudder(along with pintles and gudgeons). I'm sticking with the original sail power, omitting the exhaust pipe and propeller assembly.

Dave,
 
Those white rails look great (as does the rest of the hull). Nice work there.
 
Elia

Dave,
 
Very nicely done! That is one smart paint job.
 
Elia

Dave,
 
Those white rails look great (as does the rest of the hull). Nice work there.
 
Elia

Dave,
Do not fear using printed decals. The nameplates on the bow hide between the main rail and the yellow stripe. The rail and texture of the hull will help hide the decal edges, along with a small retouch of paint. I also placed the stern name and home port plate between the monkey and main rails. I liked this version better since it is understated and easier to neatly apply.
 
Dave B
 

Course Correction
 
There were many things I wasn't happy with on my first build, and since then I've learned that if you don't like something, fix it.  Wood can be removed or added.  Parts can be re-made.  Paint can be stripped and re-applied.
 
When preparing for this build, I was studying a practicum, and that practicum painted the main rail black.  Even though I haven't been following that practicum much, I had it in my head that black was OK for the rails.  Recently, as I've been staring at old photos of the Bluenose to decide how to tackle the name plates, I decided that black just isn't right.  The main rail and the monkey rail were white, and they should be white on my model.
 
So today I've started the process of stripping the paint off the rails.  Painting white over black is difficult, so I need to remove as much of the black as possible.  I started by masking off everything except the rails, including the entire hull (this took a while, and a lot of tape and plastic sheeting).  I've sanded the rails down with different grits to remove as much of the existing paint as possible, while being careful not to over-sand and make things too thin.
 

 
I've also applied a first coat of grey primer to cover up the bits of black that are left and give me an even surface to work with.  I plan to let that dry, sand it lightly, then apply another coat of primer.  Once that is sanded, I'll give everything a few good coats of white with my airbrush.  My progress may be slowed because it is Saturday, which means there is some college football that needs my attention...
 
I hope this works!  Will report back...

Hello Everyone...
This morning I have been working on the preparation of the shroud lines..I usually seize these lines at the point where they make contact when wrapped around the mast.  Therefore as I begin the rigging of the Bluenose I thought I would include some pictures of my method of seizing these lines.  Some modelers will seize the two lines together as they bend around the mast as a method of binding them to the mast. I prefer seizing them, as the real ships did, to prevent chafing where they make contact with the mast and then securing them to the mast with two or three square knots.  Here is an idea of the sequence:
 
The shroud line is prepared in the seizing machine with a clip locating the center of the shroud line.

 
The seizing thread is half-hitched to the shroud line and a dab of CA cement is applied.

 
After the seizing process is completed the thread is tied and glued to the shroud line

 
The excess thread is snipped away

 
The shroud lines are placed around the main mast waiting to be tied in place.

 
I have also installed all of the deadeyes in place on the channels.  The chainplates will be added once the shrouds are fully rigged.
 


 
I wish everyone a great day
Jerry

Rudder
 
The last few days have been fun, as I've been able to start working on various random things.
 
I got the hawse pipe lips cleaned up, painted and ready to install.
 
I also built the rudder.  This required tapering the provided laser cut piece and installing the post to the top.  I also had to widen the hole at the stern to make the post fit, and notch the stern post to accept the rudder.
 

 

Pintles and Gudgeons
 
On my first build, I faked the pintles and gudgeons.  I just glued the rudder in place and used copper tape to simulate the straps.  This time I wanted to try and do it properly.  I'm not quite there yet, but I'm pretty happy with my test run.
 
I've never soldered in my life.  I knew if I kept building ships, I'd have to at some point, so I decided to take the plunge.  I cut and shaped some brass strips, drilled some holes, and took a swing at soldering in some brass tubing and rods.  It isn't perfect, but I think I've proved I can make this work.  Soldering ended up being no big deal - way easier than I was expecting.
 

 

 
I'm going to put the pintles and gudgeons on hold for a week though.  I'm not happy with my ability to drill the holes (and drilling them by hand with a pin vise is a pain - I can't imaging doing this for all them!)  I've ordered a new drill press with a an X/Y table, which hopefully will make drilling these holes easier.  Once that comes in, I'll trying making a real set.
 
I also did a test run with some clear coat for the hull.  I want to get that on the hull now that I'm done painting, and before I get things too dirty.  I painted a scrap piece of wood and tried out a satin finish (right) and a gloss finish (left).  I prefer the satin, so I'll probably go with that.
 
Name Board Decals
 
I also used my test board to try out using printed decals for the name boards.  I'm not happy with the result, so I'm going to try a few other things there.  My painting skill isn't good enough to let me paint those by hand, so I've got to get creative.
 

 
 

Monkey Rail
 
The monkey rail is finished!
 
I wasn't able to use the laser-cut pieces provided by the kit because my stern has a slightly different shape.  I ended up bending some wood strip to make the monkey board.  
 

 

 
For the monkey rail, I cut a custom piece from some thin wood sheet.
 

 
The monkey rail's rounded 'caps' near the great beam were cut from some thicker stock, than sanded down to match the wood I was using for the rail.
 

 

 
All the pieces were sanded, primered, and painted before anything was installed.
 

 
Once everything was ready, I cut the scarf joints and sized the long pieces to fit.  The end caps were installed first, followed by the stern piece, with the long strips going on last.  I sanded the joints a bit, added some wood filler, then did a final sanding and some paint touch ups.
 

 

 
I think I'm finally done with the hull structure and ready to move on to other stuff!

Buffalo Rail
 
Moments after I finished the main rail, I started in on the buffalo rail.  The 'tip' is provided as a laser cut piece, and the rest is made from strip stock, so I had it all cut and cleaned up in no time.  Then I got a little lazy with painting, and didn't finish getting those parts painted for a few days.  
 
I also got distracted with a research project that started by me wondering what the most popular ships/manufacturers/kits are on MSW...which led to writing a bunch of software and researching 75+ kit manufacturers, 370+ ships, 500+ kits, and 1700+ build logs.  But that's a story for another day... 
 
I finally got around to finishing up the painting and sanding of the buffalo rail parts.  That's when I realized I had totally messed up.
 
During my alternating phases of primering, painting, and sanding, I apparently got a little crazy.  I ended up sanding the laser cut tip piece too much, and it was now too thin to fit with the other pieces.
 

 
(Ignore the pencil markings, that was from my repair work...)
 
I spent the next few days trying to cut a new tip piece by hand.  That didn't work.  So, I ordered the Proxxon scroll saw.  That made short work of it, and I had a new piece on the first try.
 

 
(New piece on left, original piece on right, obviously.)
 
This time, to ensure I didn't sand unevenly, I secured the pieces to a board using double-sided tape for the entire primering, painting, and sanding phase.  I covered the board with wax paper to make removal easier.  This helped me to sand the entire rail evenly.
 

 
After painting was done, I got the buffalo rail installed.
 

 

 
Buffer Platform Legs
 
I also had to make new pieces for the aft buffer platform legs.  Since I had made a custom piece for the aft main rail, the kit provided pieces were too short.  I cut these by hand, painted them, and got them installed.
 

 
Now on to the monkey rail...which should be fun since the thin laser cut piece provided with the kit broke as I was pulling it out of the wood sheet.  Not quite sure how I'm going to get the curves around the stern yet...
 
 

Main Rail
 
The main rail is complete!  
 
I ended up using some sheets of 1/16" basswood and tracing the curve of the hull onto the sheet.  I used those lines to draw out the shape of the rails, then cut it out so I had one long piece that ran the length of the ship.  I added in the joint to match the stern piece that was previously installed, then worked my way forward.  
 

 
Since I was using a single piece to make the rail, creating the scarf joints for the individual sections was easy - I just cut the sections apart in the shape of each joint.  I also added in the wider 'ledges' that will hold belaying pins, based on the plans.
 

 
Each side was done separately, just in case the curve was slightly different.
 
Once all six sections were cut, they got sanded down, primered, and painted.  Once they were glued in place, I used a metal file to make sure the joints were even.  I used a little wood putty to clean up the joints and fill any gaps, then did a final coat of paint.
 

 

 
On the color...the plans call for white on the main rail.  My research indicates the rails were almost certainly white (although a couple old b&w photos might show that the rail was black at some point...or those could just be misleading angles).  So I know that white would be more 'historically accurate'.  But, I've seen a lot of models that use black for the main rail, and I really like the look.  So I went with black.  At least it was a conscious choice
 
 

Hello Everybody,
 
Since the shipyard is going to be closed for several days or weeks next week I've been working overtime to get the masts. booms and gaffs finished.  I'm happy to say that other than the varnish coats they're going to get, these pieces are done.  I'll get the finish work completed by the end of the week so that when the shipyard opens again we can go right to work on the rigging.  So here are a couple of more pictures showing the completed work.  I wish everyone a happy evening.
Best,
Jerry

Hello Elijah..
Many thanks for visiting my log.
The "rope" is actually a wire loop which will be used to rig the throat halyard later in the process.  In the meantime, here is a picture of the Fore gaff and Fore boom. 
Have a great day,
Jerry

Hi Everybody..
Today was an interesting day since some of the work required a lot of patience because of the dealing with very small diameters.  I finished the main and fore masts so I started and finished the bowsprit and the fore gaff.  I intend to put a coat of satin varnish on the raw wood of the Masts, gaffs and booms to preserve their natural look.  The bowsprit is mounted in the hull and has been coated.  Dealing with drilling at the 1/8" end of the fore gaff had me in fits for awhile but I calmed down and did the deed.  So here are a few more pictures and it's off to a bottle of beer.
Have a happy evening everyone..
Jerry

Hi all.
Long time since last post about the nice schooner “Ingomar”. Now she’s waiting due to a new building: POF OF the schooner “Enterprize” a small ship built in Hobart, Tasmania. Why this ship? The fact is that  I have since 1996 a nice plan drawn by K.H. Marquardt, enclosed in a number of “Model Shipwright”.
This is the first POF. The method is similar to the method  H.Hahn, but not completely the same. The same is the way to prepare frames.
I bought  very fine pearwood sheets from ARKOWOOD.
Pictures show the first steps. Frames are only positioned not fixed.
I'll alternate working both ships INGOMAR and ENTERPRIZE.
Ciao! 

More frames added.

Hi all. Long time since last post.
I'm a discontinued builder, although continuously interested to read NRG forum and books.
 Anyway, masts are installed, anchors are ready, obtained from a 2mm thick brass plate.
Ciao!

Just today I received this nice book. The front picture shows the Ingomar!
It'easy to check that crosstrees have to be installed!!

Hi Allan, I appreciate your post, thank you.
The Ingomar is mainly based on the Chapelle book, other books are shown in my first post. Furthermore I've bought 20 years ago a  useful drawing from David Mc Gregor. This helps, but the problem is always the same: it's not easy to find a definitive source about rigging. For example, I wonder if crosstrees shall be installed! About the rope, I bought Chuck Passaro ropes in the diameter I suppose fit better in my scale. Anyway, I think the better source is Chapelle book.
I'm going to update the build log in the next days: these pictures show the masts simply fitted in their holes, and not completely aligned. 
I hope to exchange more  informations about fishing schooners with you!
 
Ciao,
Giorgio
 
P.S.: the b/w picture in the first photo shows Neil Armstrong as a child with a aircraft flying model. I'm a RC-aeromodeller also!

Hi all! Long time to prepare masts and accessories.
 
In particular mast hoops: first prepared turning a copper tube. Not ok.
Then soldering copper strips. Not ok.
Finally, wrapping paper around a wood rod. Result ok!!
 
Ciao!