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Posts posted by Pete38
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Good job snowman, can't wait to see your different stains on the toothpicks. There are a lot of people using toothpick for treenails and when done cant tell the difference from the ones through the drawplate.
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Question Rusty
Are the beams glued up in place and are cutting notch on the section?
Or are using just marking then remove beams then cut notch?
Great looking job neat and clean
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Moving right along. Very nice work... that hard oak must have been tough to work with.
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This was a topic started by UweK in the original MSW Triton. This may be some help to some.
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Brad,
Painted the ends to help seal them. Whole log is in out of the weather in a barn. Just hard to find time to work on them.
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Same here, I used black electrical tape to make up the difference,seal pretty well....
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I have 3 logs each about 8ft long and 10 to 25 inch in dia of Black Walnut that I had cut down this winter. Need to finish cutting it up into board and stacking with strips between before it is to late. It will be awhile but will let you know how it turns out.
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Okay....Okay.....Okay
I'll take some of the blame (I'm used to it)
As far as thinking outside of the box, i'm not....it's just the box that I am in is so big I get lost alot...
"Build it Bigger" Yep.....Eyes are starting to fade quicker than I want....
Seriously, at 1:24 this will be a very interesting build to watch
PS...
Since this will be so big....we expect alot more detail to go into it....Ha!
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I may be thinking alittle ahead here (alot) but the friend that gave me the cherry wood for 3 used files, just gave me enough maple for decking boards and ceiling
All this cost me was 2 boxs of "Girls Scout Cookies" ($7.00) not to bad.
So far the cost of my build is faily cheap. Hope it stays this way.
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Now that looks nice. If you hadn't shown the before pictures it would be hard to tell there were to layers.
Great job.
It's only a mistake if you leave it.
If you fix it, it was trying something different.
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While looking through some flash drives that I had at work, I found 1 page saved from an original forum on the old MSW about treenail. This reply is credited to Russ. I hope it is okay to post it here in my log, if not let me know and I'll remove it or the moderators can. THIS IS FOR GENERAL USE ONLY AND NOT A HARD AND FAST RULE.
"Okay, here is a rough set of dimensions to use for various parts of the model in the three scales.
1/48 scale Frames, no 61 bit (.039", 1mm), hull planking, no 76 bit (.020" .5mm), deck beams, knees, bitts, etc, no 68 bit (.031" .8mm), and for securing the frames and the keelson, a no 52 bit (.0625" 1.5mm) will do fine.
1/64 scale Frames, no 69 bit (.029" .75mm), hull planking, no 79 bit (.015" .4mm), deck beams, knees, bitts, etc, no 73 bit (.024" .6mm), and for securing the frames and keelson use the same 1/16" diameter bit as used in 1/48 scale. It will work fine.
1/96 scale Frames, no 76 bit (.020" .5mm), hull planking, no 80 bit (.0135" .4mm) deck beams, knees, bitts etc, no 76 bit (.020" .5mm) and for securing the frames and keelson, no 61 bit (.039" 1mm)
Please, please, please keep in mind these are very rough and very general dimensions. This is a guide, not a set of hard and fast rules. So long as you are close, there should be no big problems. If you do not want to treenail your planking in 1/96 scale, that's fine, but if you do, you might want to use something a bit larger than no 80. Its the builder's choice."
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Thanks Russ, That was the way I was leaning, Smaller is better on some details.
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Russ, Bob and Rummy thanks for looking in and the comments.
I do have a question. I had saved the information from the old msw on treenail size's but I can not seem to find it. Does anyone have a list of treenail sizes (actual Size) that is used in the cross section build.
Right now I am interested in the size to treenail the frames. I have the Book "HMS EURYALUS" by Allan Yedlinsky, and it says on the square frames a treenail size of 1" to 1 1/2" in diameter. Will this hold true for
the cross section???
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Olphat,
This was chad86 first scratch build and he was not to worried about the cost of material so he over estimated quite abit, so that he was sure to have enough when he made any mistakes.
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Larry
Sorry about the way your stain turned out on the lower part. But a real nice save using the thin hardwood.... What type you using.
Keep up the great work.
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Very nice, good progress. Frames look like they will fair up nicely.
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Russ
Good idea, will do that when I get to that point. Thanks
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Sawdust thank for dropping in. I still have to keep a check on the Sultana guys. I have not gave up on it. It sits on the shelf next to me and I will do a little on it now and then, Will have to restart my build thread on it.
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Very nice start, the keel and stem look very nice (crisp and clean)
Looking forward to more
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Hi Ron,
Good start on your Triton. I myself prefer the natural look of the woods, using something like tung oil or a natural stain.
But it is your build so pick the one that you like. Keep up the good work.
Aspen Wood
in Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
Posted
Has anybody used this wood or know anything about it.
Looks to be a fine grain (something like popular) but is more uniform in color
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100043359?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=aspen&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=100043359