Jeronimo

That is a lovely job you have done!

I was speechless, simply wonderful!

Fanstastic work.
 
Karl

Fanstastic work.
 
Karl

Thank you very much. This pump is not in the original drawings of the gear wheel details, I looked up the relevant information in this site decided to add it. After all, the simple appearance of the wooden box is nothing to see. The scale may have been slightly different, but visually I was satisfied. This part isn’t done yet, so stay tuned. 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

Fixing the topgallant shrouds
A long time ago I dealt with this topic in more detail, but without any concrete result. However, I can no longer postpone the implementation of this detail. According to my research and a corresponding interpretation of the description in the monograph of La Créole, the topgallant shrouds are now fixed by lashings, which are attached to the fittings of the deadeyes. The respective lashing is made with thimbles. 

On the next picture I show the course of the topgallant shrouds using the main top as an example.

 
So once again thimbles had to be made, 24 of them in total. In relation to the deadeyes, the thimbles should not be too big, of course. That's why I had to introduce another thimble size (ø 0.9 mm / ø 1.2 mm / ø 2.0 / ø 2.5 mm) in addition to the ones used for this model so far. For this purpose I bought brass tubes with a diameter of 1.0 mm, which finally resulted in thimbles with a diameter of about 1.6 mm. 

 
In the meantime I only make the thimbles with a suitable centre punch. With the cone-shaped point I form the tube section into a thimble with lightly dosed hammer strokes, as shown in the following picture.

 
To make the strops for the lower thimbles I use served ropes with ø 0.35 mm. For tying to the fittings of the deadeyes, eyes are formed as shown in the drawing before.
The last picture shows the finished strops, 4 x 3 pieces in total. The shorter strops are for the mizzen mast. 
 
I will report about the fixing of the topgallant shrouds on the model soon.
To be continued ...
 

Fanstastic work.
 
Karl

Fanstastic work.
 
Karl

I'm speechless.  That is absolutely gorgeous.

@Gahm
@albert
Hello,
thank you for the nice compliments. 
Of course I would also like to thank you all for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Cleats for the topgallant lifts and royal lifts
In the meantime, the cleats have been grooved for the central lashing and are ready to be tied down.

After temporarily securing the cleat to the topmast shroud, I begin the top and bottom tying. Then I rotate the cleat to its final position aft and complete the process with the center lashing.

  
The last picture shows the two cleats of the starboard side topmast shrouds of the foremast. This is where the lifts of the topgallant yard and royal yard will be attached later.

 
To be continued ...

 

Hello,
many thanks to all for the kind response.
 
Today I present you another video LINK to the construction of my French corvette, which shows the production of the anchors.
I would be happy if you like it.
 

@GioMun
Hello Gorgio,
Thank you for your interest and appreciation of my work.
As you can see in the picture below, I use these products for the brass parts.

In order to show every detail, try to take pictures of every step. Although also has some flaws or the insufficiency, but overall thought that still quite satisfied. Thank you for your support and likes.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Thank you for enjoying it. The detailed image of the finished stove is on page two. The main body of the furnace is milled by repeatedly clamping the whole brass. To make it more beautiful, the other parts are spliced and joined without glue and welding. Unfortunately, due to my habits and routines, I rarely take photos of the process, especially when it’s complicated by hand. Because it distracts me, it leads to serious mistakes, and it reduces my productivity. I’ve been making changes since everyone mentioned it in the comments, but I’ve had to adapt. After all, it was a tricky business for me to take pictures at the same time (scrap and oil from the metalworking process need to be disposed of) . I have an idea now: The pump in the drawing of the ship is just a wooden box, and from the basic structure I learned on the forum, I want to make it more elaborate, showing the details of the inner chain. However, I am not sure if this structure is correct, after all, the drawings do not have this part of the details, the shape is based on other people’s pictures, the size data needs to be calculated by myself, the small scale, processing will be more difficult. But I am willing to try, after all, we are trying to do every job well, this is also a common aspiration. So I’m going to show you how this process works. And I appreciate your valuable input, so I can make improvements. Thank you!
The picture below is what I found in the forum and copied out. As a reference for follow-up production.

Continuing the slow progress so far...
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

To be continued。。。
 

All looks very nice, Mark. Good process thinking on your run of moldings as well. Hdd you considered painting friezes on paper off-model and gluing them on in sections? Many contemporary models were painted this way. It obviates the need for awkward masking or working against gravity. And, if you mess up a piece, it's easily replaced. The friezework on Comet was done this way:
 

Hi everyone,
 
It has been a long time since my last post. Other things going on, slow progress on the Bellona with little to show of interest. A lot of thinking about next steps!
 
I have finally roughed out the timber ends, giving the hull a much lighter feeling. These still need their distinctive hollowed top and sides. And they bring into play the railings at the their base and halfway up their lengths. I am still thinking how to do this, likely inserting short pieces between the timber heads, and then continuous railings alongside to give the appearance of a railing pierced by the timber heads.
 
I have completed the sheer strake, which was particularly satisfying since it really contributes to the sweet lines of the hull. I am now beginning to fit the moulding over the sheer strake. This will be very obvious in the final model, and it needs a particularly smooth, faired line. I have made a ply template at the right curvature, that I will clamp to the hull above the moulding and then clamp the moulding up to the lower edge of the template when glued. But in the waist, the fairness will be particularly obvious,  and the ply template doesn't have anything to rest on or clamp against. So I decided to start fitting the capping rail in the waist, up to which I can clamp the moulding for a smooth run when I glue it.
 
The lower photo shows a temporary rough blank for the capping rail, to check the fairness in both directions. I'm thinking I will glue the mouldings first, then come back and do the capping rail. This gives me a final edge against which to test the fairness of the outer edge of the capping rail.
 
I got into a whirlwind of thinking, trying to figure out the sequence of painting and assembly in the upper works. Everything above the waist rail already installed is painted a dark blue for the frieze, except for the sheer and drift rail mouldings which remain bright, and the top rails and timber heads which are black. I have decided to spray paint the blue, after masking the mouldings to which I have already applied the polyurethane finish. We will see!
 
BTW, I just received the NRG thickness guide for the Byrnes saw. Beautiful, works well. Thanks everyone who made this possible!
 
Mark
 
 
 


 

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Completion of the cutout / section of the gun decks of a French 74 gun ship,
from plan drawings by Jean Boudriot and 3D rendering by Gregory Franchetti.
 
Karl