Jeronimo

After the beams were installed and fitted in place, they were left loose so I could pull them out for cutting the notches for the carlings on the out side of the ship. I also added the hanging and lodging knees to the ends of the beams and seems that it took awhile to get the pieces to a point were they could be glued in place. At the same time the bitt's were added along with the fore mast partner which was sandwich in between the knees of the bitt's. Most probably know that the cross member of the bitts were not nailed in place but held in place by eyebots and hooks which I added  them. Since all the pull was on the bitts them self seems like a good thing to do and did save time if the cross members needed to be changed out.

Thanks every one. I have not given up on my log and thought it was time for another update, this time moving up to the gun deck. As am trying to do the gun ports first before adding the outside planking, which sort of slow's down things some what. I have also uploaded a photo showing a close up of one port showing how the English would have fitted the upper and lower cills to the frames. Once these were done then the beams were laid followed by ledges, knees, carlings and other items that was built on this deck.

lower deck

After the cable was done I continued working on the deck framing as you can see from the pictures.
Thank you,
Alexandru

Thank you,
Alexandru

Hello all,
 
Made some progress and here are the pictures.

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              rekon54

hi
 
small advances
 
                rekon54

Good Sunday to all
 
advances Fleuron
 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
rekon54

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 178– Boomkins, Scuttle Hinges
 
The boomkins – or if you prefer, bumkins – were the only spars included in the construction contract.  This is only mentioned because in determining how far to go with the model, I decided to take it to the state required by the building contracts of the time.  There are a few exceptions.  For example, I included the stove, although that was not included in the contract.  I did not include swivel gun mounts, which were included.  I believe the latter had been discontinued by Naiad’s time.
 
The boomkins were substantial spars extending out from the head to secure the block of the fore course tack.  The lengths of these were not specified, except to say that they needed to extend out to plumb with the end of the fore yard when fully braced.  This required some calculations, which yielded boomkins longer than any I have seen on contemporary models, so I made them slightly shorter but still longer than those seen on Minerva and Leda in the Rogers Collection.
 
In the first picture, a square of boxwood is being converted to a tapered octagon shape with a Stanley #92 plane.  The spar will then be planed to 16 sides and finally rounded with a flat file.
 

 
The boomkins slanted down and were curved.  In the next picture, two pieces with significant extra length have been boiled and are held in the final downward curve by the orange clamps and the “clamped squares” that are fixed in the t-trak.
 

 
After drying out, these were cut to length and installed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The boomkins are bolted to the first hawse timbers outboard of the bollards.  Eventually they will be held down at the false rail with iron clamps.  The next picture shows another view of these.
 

 
One of the final chores was to install hinges on the ventilation scuttle just above the wale along the finished side.  These were made as simple shapes, photo-etched.  They are quite small and when blackened and installed on the black planking, almost invisible.  The next picture shows a few.
 

 
Two of these still have some mask attached.  The next picture shows on of these glued on with CA glue.
 

 
Ed
 

Thank you Peter even if you have some exaggerated words.
 
Here is an idea of the outside representation with the black still wet.
 
Asphalt powder diluted in turpentine plus tung oïl
Black water  tint Samona

Thank you for all kind words, gents. When it comes to 3d printing- in my opinion it is a bit of "cheating" but... at the same time it is easiest way to create low run "upgrade kits" for models that would otherwise be very hard to complete.
 
Back to Santissima: my goal is that stern and let me explain why.
 
 

 
All the plans and all the model kits on market show "simplified" (to not say "butchered") version of ship stern, borrowing heavily on british Agamemnon class (which is- to degree- justified). Of course we can make a "bare" stern, with close to no decoration, saying that since we do not have enough data, let us go simplest possible way. That's of course an option, but why would all the sudden all of us take that particular route and this one only ? Now- to my very best knowledge there is no single resource from era, nothing that would justify that approach. Nothing suggests removal of stern figures. We know above model, we have few written sources from Trafalgar (all of them mention magnitude of sculpted, white figures). We know that figurehead was severely damaged at Sao Vincente and most likely replaced later on (that's different, also quite fascinating story). So- my choice is copying stern from Museo Naval. 3d model you can see (and manipulate) from the very first link in first post is a base of course, I will be upgrading it as work goes along.
 
 

 
Central part of stern decoration, portrait of Carlos II, ready for printing.

After looking at pictures of blocks online I decided that my problem was that the grooves I cut into the block were at the wrong angles so I sanded then deeper and retried it worked this time thou the spanish windlass still did get in the way it wasn't as bad this time and I was able to get it really tight thank you so much for the information.




 
Lextin.

I made the grommet and served the eye then I tried how you said to tighten it for the seizing but the spanish windlass kept breaking and when I made it strong enough not to break it was too big and got in the way of the seizing how should I proceed?.


 
Thank you.
 
Lextin

I am making a block and am wondering how would the rope that wraps around the block be made for a full size block? would the whole rope be served or just the eye? how is the rope spliced on the bottom? would there be a thimble in the eye or not?
It is a single block that is 5 inches tall with a 3 inch diameter sheave wheel.
Also, its a bit late now but did I make the right choice in making this block from hardwood or were real blocks made from a softwood like pine?

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 177– Port Side, Lower Stern
 
At the time of the “Great Crash” I was working on the unplanked port side of the model and anticipating completion of the entire model within weeks.  It eventually took longer, perhaps without the pressure to keep posting – or perhaps it was resisting crossing the finish line.
 
Anyway, the first picture shows the two additional ribbands installed – one at the height of the wale and the second at the height of the sheer rail.  In this picture the planksheer along the waist and the roughtree rail along the topsides of the quarter deck are also in place.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view pf the planksheer and the gangways installed along the waist.  The tops of these decked walkways is flush with the tops of the planksheers.
 

 
Part of the final work on the port side was to locate and insert all the missing bolts that were left uninstalled during work on the knees, spirketing, and other internal members that bolt through the hull.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the port gangway and one of the ladders into the waist.
 

 
Only the basic structure of the quarter gallery on the port side was installed.  This included the stools, the rim with its stanchions and the upper and lower finishings.  The next picture was taken after bolting in the lower finishing on the port side with the model inverted.  
 

 
While in this position, the final applications of wax finish were applied to the lower stern and the lower hull framing.
 
The next picture shows work on the lower parts of the starboard quarter gallery that were also installed at this time.
 

 
In the next picture the model has been righted and all of the lower parts of the quarter gallery are in place.
 

 
 
Ed

Hi Karl,
I follow your content since a few month and I have to say that I' am speechless. You work in such a high quality and so fast!!
Wonderful!
Regards
Holger

Hello Karl,
 
Beautiful work !! 3 pièces is a good idea.
 
Michel

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              rekon54

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              rekon54

hi advances work Fleuron
 
              following more photos   rekon54

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              rekon54

Hello Dear Friends,
 
Thank you for the motivating comments.
 
Here is an update of my Report.
It's about the manufacturing of gun carriages for the carronades.
These are made of serviceberry.
 

 

 

 

I've made and fitted the final three pieces of the Rudder Head Trunk. Some slight sanding still needs to be done to get the joints flush :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks guy's. Just to let you know that Montagu isbeing worked on here is some pictures out of sync with the rest of the build photos,showing the build up of her 32 pound gun. Am in the research phase of figuring out the sizes of every thing that fits with the gun. It does seem that not every one agree's on the sizes of the fittings that fits with this type of gun. One item that I have been looking for and just a matter of time before I find it, is the size of the hooks that the block and tackle used. Just like the blocks, some say 6 inch blocks and other say 8 inch blocks, which is probably what I go with. Any way here is some photo of how the cannon looks minus the rigging which as soon as I get the right type of end mill to make the blocks, they will be rigged to the cannons. One thing is for sure, there sure is a lot of parts and pieces to them. Gary