Jeronimo

The first Eleven Frames.
 
 
 
T e i l  27

Trying is the right word, and then comes hoping you've got it all in the right spot. Glad this was an easy fix, further down it would have been impossible...
 
Ed I now use a cup burr that works even better
 

 
Here the third platform is partially complete and the riding bitt's are test fitted, hard to see but they taper quite dramatically towards the bottom of the hull. 
 
This is one of those jobs where I would like to have 6 extra hands  ;-) 
 

 
Remco

She grows!
In a work progress I made some mistakes because of which I changed a design a little. 
As later I will correct some awful elements that everything would be smoothly and more beautifully.

I added a biting. There were some problems with installing them in their place, and it took me some time to disassemble the deck. They have studs on the bottom of the case and you need to install them now. Make sure that they are parallel to each other. I hope I did it  

currect status

In your picture, the 4th frame in from the left is short as I expect it to be.
Sorry,  I didn't count the side counter piece before, my fault
 
Is the lower of your red lines a timber on the outside of the stern or a guide line?
Below the red line is the upper deck transom and above it is the seat, then the quarter deck transom and above that the "transom of the quarter deck'. Then the other smaller framing for the ports and around the helm port which look to be there on the left of your picture.
 
I did some rough transoms and put them where I think they'll be going here:

 
I don't have the shorter counter timbers in yet, and ignore the rubber band  and wonky picture.
 
My dimension for the upper deck transom is only 8 1/2 inches broad (4.5mm) (book says 8 but plans say 8 1/2) and 5 inches (2.6mm) deep, and your upper deck transom looks bigger than that.
 
Yours looks to be 8 1/2 inches deep and perhaps 15" broad, which matches the upper deck beams?
 
Looking again at the upper deck plan in V2, the drawing of the stern seems to match yours better than mine.

 
So apart from my question about the dimension of that deck transom, and what the lower red line represents, the way you have it on the left of the picture (<-----) looks ok to me.
 
Cheers
Rob

Hello, All!
To understand the correct form of the stern and contertimbers, I made a 3D model of  woods.
I'm not sure I understood correctly drawings. Really want to know the opinion of other builders.
To be install on the hull, I probably will do a new version, as there are very large gaps in the dovetail.
 

Some continue



 

The final vervion
 

Hi,
I finished fore magazine




 

I had some problems with marking clams. And I made a platforms and orlop for an accurate line for them




 
 

After that I made the bow of the hull

After that I made out on the housing frames. They do not consist of 2 parts as the French style. I pre-glued only where it is required to design.

Then each of frame I removed the inside of the wood

And again gathered all the frames ready to jig. Now I use glue.


On the outer side of the rope is fastened frames temporarily

I put in the centerline or king plank next.  This plank is 3" thick and the lateral edges are beveled.  My deck planking will be holly with one edge and end highlighted with pencil so the seams are more apparent.  The hardest part of deck planking is determining the centerline.  I drilled a hole in the midline of the stemson and inserted a pin into the hole.  A doubled thread then is secured to the pin and to the #19 pillar to determine the midline.  The thread is evident in the pictures.
 

 
The pins for the riding bitt, main topsail sheet bitt and the main jeer bitt were temporarily installed.  The riding bitt extends all the way to the thickstuff over the floorhead.  The other bitts end at the lower deck beams.  These are 9" square but have an aft taper below the upper deck.  The dimensions at the lower deck beam are 6"d x 9"w.  The foot is rounded over.  These are shown in TFFM as being bolted flush to the aft side of beams 11 and 12.  The draughts for Atalanta show that they are mortised into the beams and that the jeer bitt is also mortised into the after hatch framing.  These are (theoretically) bolted to the beams.  In the pictures I made no attempt to check for plumb, as these were only temporarily fastened.  During the construction of the lower deck framing, I did not think far enough ahead.  I should have made these bitts and drilled the bolt holes as assemblies 11 and 12 were made.  At this point, it would be next to impossible to put those holes in.
 

 

 
Of course, while I am taking pictures, Sadie decided that she was not getting enough attention.  It looks like she is taking a bite out of the stern.  In reality, she loves masking tape and the midline thread is secured with some (which she is trying to remove).  Since we almost lost her to urosepsis last week (a really bad kidney infection that gave her blood poisoning in normal people talk), I guess I can tolerate some of her idiosyncrasies.  But if she ate a piece of wood...
 

A milestone has been achieved.  The lower deck structure has been finished.  I have been applying finish to the underside of the beam sets before installing them.  The gap in front of lodging knee 17 in the fourth photo occurred because the assembly is not glued in yet and it shifted.  The last photo shows it better positioned.  I will not put on any upper surface finish until after the decking is installed.  Now on to the mizzen partner.
 

 
    
 

 

Danny, thanks for the head's up.
 
Not much has been accomplished the last week.  The spring here has been particularly cold and cloudy so now that it is a little warmer (50 degrees with a 30 mph wind!) I have been occupied in the gardens.  We finally saw the sun yesterday so I took Atalanta sailing in the lawn.
 

 

 

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

I have accomplished a lot of little things since the last posting.  Some of these included mock-up of internal planking to decide how I want to procede.  In order to show off the framing of the lower deck, I will leave the starboard deck completely bare.  (Yes I know it will be barely visible regardless.)  I will put in the waterway on the port side but will not install the spirketting on either side.  Internal bulkeeads will be installed on the port side only.
 
The waterways are 3" planks that taper medially to 2" to match the thickness of the deck planking.  They are 12" wide.  There is also a lateral bevel to mate with the bevel of the spirketting.  I could not get a good picture to demonstrate this.  The bevels were scraped in with a razor blade and then sanded.  Once I had fabricated the foremost waterway plank and its scarf, I cut the scarf in to the eking piece on the port side and copied it on to the starboard side.  I could not find a trunnelling diagram either in TFFM or in the various build logs for the waterways so I decided to put two trunnels into each beam and a single trunnel between frames and at the scarf joints.  The trunnels are decorative.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.
 

 

 

 

 

Mark and Pat, thanks for looking in.
 
The mast partner has been installed and now it is time to install the upper deck clamps.  There are four strakes and an air space between the top of the lower deck and the upper deck beams.  The first task was to measure the top of the beams on the draughts and transfer this to the Mylar.  The sheer is less pronounced fore and aft than shown on the Mylar.  This height was then marked on the inside of the hull and a strip of tape was placed to ensure a smooth run for this line and also make sure that the line is parallel to the gun port sills.  The second photo shows the model laid on its side in order to show the run of the clamp to the stemson.  The beams are 7" in height and let into the clamp 1".  Therefore I measured down 6" to find the height of the top of the clamp.  This line was marked in pencil. 
 

 

 

 

Thanks guys, but who said I only have 2?
 
The 3rd section of the platform needed more detailing, now I can move on to adding detail to the riding bitt's.
 

 

 
 
Remco

Thanks Scott, John.
 
 
I had to rebuild the forward small platform as the deck pillar didn't line up with the deckbeam above. 
More deck pillars and stancions added, a small portion of the bulkhead is made too. The upper breast hook was made using card templates and trimmed further until a snug fit was obtained.
 

 

 

 
 
Remco

.....
 
           rekon54

hi
 
progress of my model
 


 

 

 

 

 

 
rekon54

Crikey, Karl, it hasn't taken you long to get a good start on the next section!
 
John