druxey

Rubber cement will not distort paper or tracing vellum as will any glue with water content.

There are several tutorials on this site on how to plank. Any of these will answer your question, as well as Chuck's contribution:
 
https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/

All looks fair and square!

All looks fair and square!

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

Keith, I do not use spray cans when painting, as they do not give the desired uniformity to the paint layer. I use airbrushes with nozzle diameters of 0.3 and 0.5 mm.
 
As for the light stripe, this is not the waterline. This is a strip of variable waterlines, it indicates the level of the minimum and maximum permissible draft of the vessel.
  Very often this strip was painted with a special antifouling paint (patent). Mostly these paints had pink, green  shades. Pink paints contain mercury oxide, which kills microorganisms and gives the paint a pink tint.

Laeisz Flying P ships were painted the black-white-red scheme because that time this scheme was the colors of the German Merchant Marine. However, the tree tone painting wasn't unusual that time, two almost identical examples are Balclutha (San Francisco Maritime Museum) and Wavertree (South Street Seaport Museum, New York).  Also, Pelican of London barquentine (built 1946) still sails with this color scheme
 
 

Valery, in 1912 the waterline marks were the standard Plimsoll mark, mandatory painted on midships since 1894. However, this isn't exclude to paint the big white line for better visibility.
 
Edit: Until 1930, the Plimsoll mark was required for all ship only who visiting British ports. It is required for all vessels since 1930 so you were right.

To my knowledge, there was no paint-scheme for the German Merchant Marine in the early years of the 20th century. This was just the fashion of the day. One can see this is on many old photographs on both, sail- and steam-ships. Sometimes grey was substituted for black.

Better visibility of the ship's side area at variable waterlines is a secondary purpose.  
The main task of such painting is to protect the metal of the sheathing sheets from intense destruction.

Thats right Eberhard, there was no scheme, but the Laeisz fleet was painted this way by purpose. Laeisz was proud of his Flying-P fleet and intended to easily recognize the P ships. The Laeisz shipping company is still working today, and they are happily follow this tradition e.g. the pride, but their ships are more colorful nowadays. I was talked one of their officer then in Hamburg.
 
 Also right Valery, however the white line was not antifouling paint. Red one was (either the pinkier tone mercury-oxide or more burgundy color lead-oxide) the antifouling. I had opportunity to paint them in real life so much time

All looks fair and square!

It has been a while since I last posted any update - and to be honest I haven't had a lot of time to devote to modelling in the last few weeks. What time I have had has mostly been spent either reorganising tools and workspaces or taking just a few steps forward and then a few steps backwards with the build!
 
I thought it would be a good idea to get a proper spindle sander setup and as space doesn't allow me to have a dedicated spindle sander I instead purchased some sleeveless sanding drums to use in the drill press. The sleeves are 1 inch, 2 inch 2.5 inch and 3 inch in diameter. I made a little spindle sanding station so that there was a nice flat baseboard on which to place the pieces when they are being sanded - here is the 1 inch drum in the press.

I have made and then subsequently discard two attempts at making the stemson. The stemson is made from 15" stock and in each case I found it difficult to get the join between it and the stem nice and uniform. I am now on my third attempt and rather than using a cut out template from the plans I have this time traced the shape of the inner curve of my stem onto the piece of wood. This has then been cut out on the scroll saw and now needs sanding to ensure a snug fit. I have purchased a cheap A5 lightboard to help me with checking the fit of the joint and hopefully that will help me improve on my earlier less successful attempts!
 
One useful piece of knowledge I have recently acquired is that it isn't a good idea to use tracing paper as a template for any of the pieces. I had traced the shapes of the aft deadwood pieces on tracing paper and then glued then to some 15" stock but when I came to cut them out on the scroll saw I noticed that the act of gluing the tracing paper to the wood had actually resulted in the tracing paper becoming stretched in one dimension. Luckily this meant that my templates were too long rather than too short and so the pieces were still useable, but at least now I know not to do that again! 


I have glued the three aft deadwood pieces together with black tissue paper in the joints. The top curve of the assembled pieces have been sanded to the correct shape but the base and the rear line of the aft deadwood is still a little oversize. I will sand those to size once I have milled in the shape of the stepping line. I also need to drill holes in the base of the aft deadwood so that it can be pinned to the centreline of the keel at some point in the future.

 

A final update - deadflat 1 has now also been raised, after notching it out on the aft face for the sweep port sills. Here are a couple of shots to round out the set....moving on to frame set 1 next....think I will continue to do these in pairs as long as that continues to make sense....
hamilton

So I may have been pre-emptive, but I decided to raise the deadflat frame on the keel today. Doing so took quite a bit of finessing and was definitely aided by the deadflat 1 frame when it came to final positioning.
 
The whole endeavour was slowed by the fact that I broke not one but both of the frames while adding the trunnels, and had to reset the futtocks and in one case re-make one of the chocks - which I did using the method suggested by Greg which worked way better for fit - still a bit of adjusting to do, but not as much as when I was just cutting them from the patterns on the frame drawings....
 
For mounting, the frame was merely glued to the keel assembly with PVA, which I will let cure for 24 hours before securing the seating with a length of brass rod - this will be invisible under the keelson, so I'm not going to treat it in any way, just use it for structural support.
 
I lined up the frame along the reference lines on the lateral framing squares and clamped these in place. I then clamped the forward square along the centre line (I etched a centre line on the acrylic base and vertical support for certainty)and then clamped the frame to the aft framing square.
 
Once this was done, I inserted some 2mm spacers (scrap basswood) between the two frames and used a length of 2mm basswood for a bracing piece at the top. This is only glued to the aft edge of the deadflat frame but clamped between the 2 frames to secure it. I was quite please not only with the seating of the frame, but with the alignment of the outside edges of these first two frames. I will be adding these horizontal braces to the tops of the frames as I go for structural support and to ensure symmetry and will saw the centre portions flush and sand down the remaining material flush with the frames when I fair the cross-section for planking. The bracing pieces you see further down the frame are not glued and will be removed once the glue is set and I'm ready to install deadflat 1, which I will do after completing frame 1 forward.
 
Any comments, tips or feedback on this process are always appreciated. Thanks and bye for now
hamilton 

One last update for today. I used the markings on the tape strips attached to the right angle plates to mark out the lines on the front face of the deadflat frame. I then cut a tick strip and marked the lines on it from the profile drawing and checked against the marks on the frame. With a very small adjustment on the starboard side, the markings were nice, even & symmetrical. I then unclamped the frame and extended these marks across the face of the frame using a straight edge, and then extended the lines around the frame, so each line is marked out on all sides.
 
I still need to add trunnels to the futtock joints, which should be interesting - the joints are such a tender spot that I'm not sure how to approach it in terms of supporting the frame so it doesn't break under even the controllable pressure of hand drilling....My current idea is to put the frame in my bench vice so the outside edge of the frame is just above the jaws and going for it from there....I have some cast-off futtocks that i made while practicing my scroll saw work so I might just glue up a couple of those just to see how it feels and how it goes....I guess I'm not in any rush!
hamilton

Thanks Alan - yes, this seemed like a much better approach than trying to line up tick strips. It'll be a little tricky as the model progresses, and I may need to modify the framing squares to allow me to continue using this method as I work aft - the framing square that I built from the Admiralty templates is too wide for me to be able to slide the acrylic squares in back of the frame for transferring marks. I'll see if I can puzzle this out over the weekend as I try to get my first frame raised. One thing I will definitely need to do is mark out the station lines as verticals on both the disposition of frame and profile drawings, so I'm sure I'm correctly laying the tape strips. This wasn't necessary for the deadflat frame as there is a little reference for it on the drawing itself, but it will be much better to mark them all out as verticals to ensure the reference lines are correct.
 
In the meantime, I spent a bit of time last night testing the method and seeing if I could set up the deadflat frame with accuracy. Using the vertical measurement jig and some 1/2" masking tape (turned out I didn't have any more 1/4" stuff, which I think would be better), I took measures for the upper & lower deck beams at side, the height of breadth line and the design waterline. I then just peeled this tape off the jig and carefully lined it up with the edges of the square at the bottom and along one side - repeated for the port side square and that was that. The port and starboard squares were lined up with the height of breadth line on the drawing fixed to the building board and then clamped in place.
 
In the photos below, I've set the frame up and clamped the fore and aft framing squares and the lateral squares. I found it useful then to take a tick strip with the lines marked out and used this to test the port & starboard symmetry of the frame  and make minor adjustments to its positioning before final clamping. What you see in the final shots below is the frame set up on the building board ready to be marked out for the various lines noted above. The deadflat 1 frame needs also to be marked out for the sweep port notches on its aft face. In fact there are, I think, only 4 frames total that don't need to be notched out for sweep ports, gun ports and/or scuppers.
 
A brief observation - the process of constructing frames has really re-oriented my focus and attention in modelling. The necessity to approach each component with care and thought for its relations is so much more on the surface of things than I've experience in my work on model kits, where I feel like I lag in conscientiousness here and there where the kit manufacturer has done the work for me....Even with my scratch Bluenose there were a couple of "auto-pilot" moments where I was leaning much more on the documentation supplied by MS for their kit, and where I felt I could fudge things without any overall bad effect. Here, there's no fudging things! It has to be right or it's not going to work - it's a lot of pressure, but it feels like there's a lot of learning happening too, which is fun.
 
Here are some photos - I hope to have the first frame raised by the end of the weekend - I just need to mark it out, trunnel the joints, work on the keel notch to ease the fit, and it'll be ready to go......deep breath....
hamilton

A small update - not much time this past week for modelling, unfortunately, but I have a short break from work over the weekend, so hopefully I'll be able to make some progress. Today, I spent a very short time putting together a simple jig for taking vertical measurements - it's just the profile drawing adhered to a piece of 3/4" plywood with a batten clamped along the line marking the bottom of the keel. I made some tick strips out of card, but I think I will take a different approach to transferring these marks - I have a number of right angle plates that I made from 1/8" acrylic some time ago and the taller of these can be used to transfer vertical measures to the model - instead of using tick strips on the drawing, I will use 1/4" masking tape which can then be fixed to the right angle plate itself - perhaps a more stable way of transferring the measures, but we'll see how it goes - I'm going to try to mark and file out the notches for the sweep port sills and lintels this weekend using this method. 
hamilton

I have added hatch covers and deck beams for half deck and forecastle

a start is made on the panelling and cabins of the officers. Port side only.

Dick

On the undecked starboard side the carlings are installed

The carlings support the ledges which in turn support the deck planking


This completes main deck framing. Now for deck furniture.
Dick

1/3 of all frames rough sanded and ready for assembly... there are few that needs to be made again, just to much pressure on the sander caused more removed wood that needed... 
 

Happy modelling..  

Nice work - personally I would go with a shellac - my favorite finish - either a blonde or garnet if you want darker.  Its so easy to apply and you can make you own mixture using flakes and alcohol.  

Planking the bow.
Purely speculative. As mentioned earlier, the planking here is horizontal, on many carracks it is curved vertical, but at the time of the sinking of Mary Rose this seems to have become somewhat old-fashioned. most drawings then show horizontal planking.
 
First, a clean up on the inside

Then the bow is built up step by step.

The bow is planked. Not clearly visible in the photos, but there are still depths and heights in the shape here and there. But the planks are thick enough to sand away these imperfections.
 
And. Not happy with the errors on the right, but we don't see anything about this later. Needs further sanding (left)

With the cardboard fore castle. In this setup the height is already 1.5cm lower.
Next, sanding, applying treenails, etc. to be done.

Thanks for following

Well fellas after a very unproductive winter on my fun projects I got started today on my little Dory. My wife and I have been dealing with aging parents on both ends all fall and winter and that's usually when my project time is the most abundant,...but anyway,..I promise I'm committed and here we go with today's progress. In the 5th picture I have attachments ( I know there is proper terminology but my plans are downstairs )  that have to be glued on both ends...didn't do that today, not sure how you guys keep everything centered. The last pic is a mock up, nothing glued yet except for the spacer pieces with a dot of glue to the plans. I enjoyed every bit of it 👍👊