Bedford

Yes, I had that choice, but instead of wood, I was going to use plexiglass.
 
However, after thinking it over, I realized that making such a plexiglass dummy would take me much more time than soldering a brass frame.

Beautiful, as usual. The brass rings are on the way

Beautiful, as usual. The brass rings are on the way

Best wishes John

Best wishes John

Best wishes John

Best wishes John

Had a bit of a break between our holiday and starting treatment, so here's a final final update for a while! 🙂
 
The mizzen upper topgallants are now rigged and the sharp eyed might also notice that the fore lower shrouds are also sporting ratlines. Only one more square sail to go and then the full ratline, lower sheet, brace thing happens, plus some deck details I can't put on yet.
 
The 'Duchess' will hopefully return to active duty in mid November!
 
John
 

Mate, I can handle that. Send me a drawing

Mate, I can handle that. Send me a drawing

Mark, beautiful work as usual, if the winch bases are just circular I can run them up on the lathe for you so you can tin the lot properly.

Mark, beautiful work as usual, if the winch bases are just circular I can run them up on the lathe for you so you can tin the lot properly.

Thank you Steve & welcome Welfack, & hi to everyone - 
 
I've now almost completed the timber work, & apart from the spars just the tiller remains to be done now. Then I'll work on the spars & metalwork. This boat has stainless steel fittings, so I'll be painting the metalwork silver. This recent work includes deck & cockpit timber details, all unfinished (weathered) teak.
 

 
The bases for the cockpit winches, which are used mainly for the running backstays.

 
The deck cutwaters, deck winch bases & a small base for a cam cleat fitting - that are all alongside the main hatch. And the large cutaway on the port side cutwater is a support for the spinnaker pole.
 

 

 
The Sampson post & the forwards support chock for the spinnaker pole. The sampson post isn't fixed down yet, there will be a mortise for the bowsprit, to be cut into the forward side face.

 
And the port side cutwater. The small holes are for the lines that lead to the cam cleats: spinnaker topping lift one side & spinnaker pole kicker the other. I'm not sure what the 3rd one is, but will find out.
 
They were tricky to drill due to the angles & the fact that regular drill bits down't work well at angles, especially if it's a small hand drill. What I did was: to initially drill the holes & then put CA glue on it all to harden the timber up, drill right through & CA to the hole...then when hard clean it all up. I also found that a 1mm wide strip of sandpaper was quite a useful way to sand inside the angled holes.
 
thanks, 

 
 

The shipyard had been closed for much of August, only the drawing office stayed open to prepare work for autumn ...
 
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Anchor-winch 4
 
The remaining item for the winch is the pawl-bit against which also the bowsprit rests. It is surprisingly thin, only 240 mm square, according to the original drawing, which conveniently translates to 1.5 mm on the model.
 
A strip a tad wider than 2 mm was cut from a scrap of 1.5 mm thick acrylic glass. Care was taken to cut it parallel to a manufacturing edge, which is clean and square. In this way, only one edge needed to be machined and the manufactured edge provided a good datum for this.
 
The pawl rest in a cast-iron U-shaped frame that is bolted to the front of the post (updating the design a bit from the older style wooden pawls drawn in the original drawing). Rather than adding this part to the post, I decided to mill it from the solid. Hence the 2 mm strip.
 
Originally, I intended to drill 0.15 mm holes for the axes of the pawls, but my drills turned out to be too short for that. This would not be really necessary at this scale anyway, but would have later, once a wire was inserted, facilitated the positioning of the pawls. I have to eyeball it now.

Milling the groove into the ‘cast-iron’ frame
 
The post was milled to size, letting material for the frame for the pawls standing. The shape of the frame was then milled out and the ends rounded with a safe-edge file. In the final machining step, the groove was cut.

Shaping the head of the pawl-bit
 
I don’t have square collets (I plan to make one day a set of square insert collets for precisely holding square stock), so a round one had to make do for the next operation, namely shaping the head of the pawl-bit with different burrs. Because of the relatively soft acrylic glass and with light cuts, this is not a problem.
 
Shaping the head of the pawl-bit
 
The pawls will be short lengths of 0.2 mm x 1 mm styrene strips, but will be made only later, when everything comes together so as not to lose those tiny bits.
 
To be continued …
 

Mate, she's beautiful. Great details!

Mate, she's beautiful. Great details!

Thank you everyone,
 
I'm now back from a Nordic trip in the northern hemisphere summer, & have now finished & assembled more of the details around the cockpit & face of the raised deck. The horizontal varnished trimming pieces both sides of the companionway, which insect with a vertical varnished piece each side; & the weathered teak cockpit seat backrests.
 
Overall view:

 
Detail, & I can see the pencil alignment mark needs to be removed:

 
The junction of the strips was difficult to get, but happy with this:

 
Detail, showing the drain openings & another pencil mark to be removed...

 

 
Trimming piece, against the deck.

thanks for looking in,
 

I probably wouldn't buy-in someone elses parts, I was thinking of kitting myself out to do 3D-printing - or at least do the designs myself. On the other hand, as for my laser-cutting, parts usually do not turn out right at first shot. As @dafi knows well, there are usually several runs necessary to get the dimensions right for printing - unlike for substractive machining, where one in most cases ends up with the correct part.
 
However, I love this late 19th to mid-20th century manual technology of substractive machining and those old machines. In addition, I am already spending a good deal of my wake hours in front of a computer, so manual workshop work is a pleasant diversion.
 

Sure but... I've got nothing against 3D printing. I buy 3D parts but I wish I didn't have to, I wish I could make those parts myself. I think there's something to said for building a model totally by hand. I can't do it but for those that can, I admire them and their skills greatly.  

Thanks again for your interest !
 
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Anchor-winch 3
 
The winch drums were fashioned from 3 mm Ø round acrylic rod. Each side was built up from two pieces. The problem here were the square holes for the handle-bars. In principle, one could cross-drill two holes and file the square, but at 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm this would have been quite a challenge. There would be other options, such as broaching, but this requires specialised tools.
The simplest thing is to divide the drum into two parts, to slot the end of one part, cement the two parts together and one ends up with perfect square holes.

Set up for slotting the ends of the winch drums

Slotting the winch drums
 
To this end, a piece of rod was faced on both ends, and drilled 0.5 mm for the axle. It was then transferred to the dividing head on the micro-milling machine and the ends were slotted 0.5 mm deep with a 0.5 mm circular saw. Finally, a round disc of the same diameter was cemented to the end, leaving two perfectly square cross-holes.

Milling the eight sides of the winch drums
 
In the next step, the axle of the dividing head was tilted by 1.5° for milling the eight sides of the drum that is slightly conical. The drum is bound by iron hoops at both ends. These were generated by milling the drum to 0.2 mm diameter above the target dimensions. Then, the diameter was reduced by these 0.2 mm, leaving two ‘bands’ of 0.3 mm width and 0.1 mm thickness at both ends.

Close-up view of milling the eight sides of the winch drums
 
The thinner ends of the drum were faced off on the lathe to the correct length and then the drum halves parted off to the correct length.
 
The spill-heads were done in the same way, but are cylindrical (or eight-sided prisms), rather than conical (or eight-sided truncated pyramids). A smaller burr had to be used, as the distance between the reinforcement bands is only 1 mm. Before parting-off, the outside ends were slightly dished with a round-burr in the lathe tailstock.

Milling the spill heads
 
For the ratchet wheel a short length of 3 mm acrylic rod was turned down to 0.1 mm above the target diameter of 2.0 mm. The geometry for milling the ratchets was worked out on the computer. I arrived at ten ratchets 0.2 mm deep (= 32 mm on the prototype, which appears reasonable). In watchmaking there are special ratchet-wheel milling cutters that can also cut curved teeth, but I don’t have any, so I had to make do with a dovetail burr, which is good enough, as the ratchet wheel does not need to be functional. Also, two 0,2 mm thick discs as flanges were parted off.

Milling the ratchet wheel
 
Unfortunately, these transparent parts are difficult to photograph and, indeed difficult to see during machining. A first coat of paint will eventually show any errors …

The parts of the anchor winch made so far assembled

The anchor winch at its future location
 
To be continued …

Absolutely beautiful workmanship

Absolutely beautiful workmanship

Jan, thank you for your feedback!  
 
And I will allow myself to comment on it a little.
What you called "gifted" I still put in third place in importance. Experience and skills definitely claim second place. But in first place should be the necessary high-quality machines and tools, because without them the necessary experience cannot appear and no gifted can help with this.  

Absolutely beautiful workmanship

Absolutely beautiful workmanship