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Bedford
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Bedford got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Well Omega, it's like this.
The lazy jacks which haul the gaffs down are attached to the sail at several points as in the real thing, kind of like a draw string. This keeps the sail nicely contained and controlled back to a bit past half way and while the balance of the sail can spill out it can't go far.
So yes, I intend to at least motor out from the shore into open water before setting sails and I can choose how much sail to raise. If the wind comes up or my sailing skills let me down I can drop sails and power her home.
If I were to sail on a windy day I would probably tie the tops'ls and stays'ls down to better control them.
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Bedford reacted to michael mott in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Steve, that is really impressive, lowering the gaff on my maria is not as easy as it looks and to see your 3 gaffs lowered on the model is amazingplus the fact that they are also an integral part of the sheeting out of the topsl's. brilliant work.
Michael
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Bedford got a reaction from yvesvidal in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Update, at last.
As stated before the pipe work below deck is a pain but I have now completed all of it to the aft deck house.
That includes raising and lowering the sails, tops'ls and controlling the sails.
Next step is to raise, lower and control the stays'ls, this will be done from the fore deck house.
Here is a little clip.
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Bedford got a reaction from Yambo in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
I have been slack lately, not looking forward to the lazy jacks.
I have sorted them now and I can now lower the sails properly. The video is a little bit dodgey as the camera kept trying to auto focus but it's ok. Once all the running rigging for the tops'ls is done I think it will be smoother and more controlled too.
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Bedford got a reaction from Yambo in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Update, at last.
As stated before the pipe work below deck is a pain but I have now completed all of it to the aft deck house.
That includes raising and lowering the sails, tops'ls and controlling the sails.
Next step is to raise, lower and control the stays'ls, this will be done from the fore deck house.
Here is a little clip.
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Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Pilot Cutter by Michael Mott - 1:500 scale
Michael, I just found this and read through it and I guess I can just refer you to almost every comment I have made on your 1/8th cutter.
A few things that may be worth considering, I used to wind electric motors in another life and if you use a varnish coated wire of that small size you can very easily remove the varnish by running the wire slowly through a cigarette lighter flame, anything hotter will break the wire.
Also I once made a very crude miniature of the "Schooner for Port Jackson" which I bottled, don't know where it got to, but I planked the deck by taking a very thin cut from soft radiata pine with a plane. It curls but if the blade is sharp and the cut is short it doesn't curl much, you can then use good sharp scissors to cut it into planks.
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Bedford reacted to Jim Lad in Francis Pritt by Jim Lad - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - Australian Mission Ship
Thanks for the encouragement folks - both here and via the 'Like' button.
The hull will be fully planked. If I were going to leave a section open to view then I'd complete all internal details. I just like building by this method!
John
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Bedford got a reaction from michael mott in Pilot Cutter by Michael Mott - 1:500 scale
Michael, I just found this and read through it and I guess I can just refer you to almost every comment I have made on your 1/8th cutter.
A few things that may be worth considering, I used to wind electric motors in another life and if you use a varnish coated wire of that small size you can very easily remove the varnish by running the wire slowly through a cigarette lighter flame, anything hotter will break the wire.
Also I once made a very crude miniature of the "Schooner for Port Jackson" which I bottled, don't know where it got to, but I planked the deck by taking a very thin cut from soft radiata pine with a plane. It curls but if the blade is sharp and the cut is short it doesn't curl much, you can then use good sharp scissors to cut it into planks.
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Bedford got a reaction from Omega1234 in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
A true craftsman in every aspect of the build.
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Bedford reacted to Jim Lad in Francis Pritt by Jim Lad - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - Australian Mission Ship
I didn't update my log after my last regular visit to the museum as when I got there I found that I'd forgotten to pack the wood I needed to continue building!
I therefore spent most of the day talking to visitors and having cups of coffee in the members lounge!
On Friday I had some extra time at the museum desk so was able to do a bit of work on the 'counter rim frame' - pearling lugger jargon. This is the frame that runs around the counter at deck level and onto which both the hull and deck planking butts.
Because it is fitted into the aftermost frames at deck level, fitting it is largely a case of 'suck it and see' (or trial and error). So the roughed out frame is now glued and dowelled to the two aftermost frames ready for shaping. By the time I'm at the museum next Wednesday the glue will be nicely cured and ready to work on.
The photos are, I think, pretty self explanatory. The final one shows the typical kicked up stern of the Thursday Island luggers.
John
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Bedford got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
I have been slack lately, not looking forward to the lazy jacks.
I have sorted them now and I can now lower the sails properly. The video is a little bit dodgey as the camera kept trying to auto focus but it's ok. Once all the running rigging for the tops'ls is done I think it will be smoother and more controlled too.
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Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
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Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
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Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
27.5 degrees, that's about 1.5 too hot to be comfortable for me, you can keep it !
Back to ship building.
The epoxy has set, the control room is re-fitted and I have done more "plumbing"
I hope the pics make sense.
This shows two tubes running to the winch drum, just held together with wire for now. I was going to solder them together but I am worried about the heat so I think I will use epoxy and epoxy putty to secure it all.
In the following pics you can make out the two tubes from the fore and main masts coming together and aiming towards the stern. There is another tube with a flared end facing forward towards the other two.
The idea being that a line off each boom will join to a single line that runs back to the winch drum. The gap between the tubes that allows for joining of the lines is located in the area of a large cargo hatch to allow repeat access should it be required.
Nothing is permanently aligned yet.
I flared the receiving tube to allow the join in the ropes to pass into the tube easily, I did this in the lathe. Anneal the tube then mount it in the chuck, place a centre drill in the tail stock and run the lathe in reverse while easing the centre drill into the tube. The cutting edge of the drill does not bite into the brass because the lathe is going backwards so the angled step on the drill acts as a gentle flaring tool.
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Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Well wouldn't that rot your socks!
When I was using epoxy in summer the stuff was going off as quickly as I could mix it and now in winter it doesn't want to go off at all!
I realised that I had better pull out the control room and epoxy it for waterproofing. I did that this morning and because it is a balmy 9-10 degrees C here I left my front and back doors open to freshen up the house. After about 3 hours the epoxy was still quite tacky so I turned the heating on to 16 degrees and went out for a while, came back and still no better.
I have had to turn the heat off again because it is just too warm so I will see if it goes off over night.
The upshot of all this is that I can do no more control fitting until the epoxy is set and the control room re-fitted.
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Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
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Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
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Bedford got a reaction from Yambo in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
We have reached a truly momentous occasion...........
http://youtu.be/oVoMhYSnHvA
I am so pleased with how the sails raise, it takes a fair bit of effort but the servo handles the task with ease.
I can't lower them properly yet because I have yet to run the lazy jacks to the servo, when they are connected the gaffs will pull down easily and the bulk of the sail will be controlled rather than spilling out all over the deck.
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Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
We have reached a truly momentous occasion...........
http://youtu.be/oVoMhYSnHvA
I am so pleased with how the sails raise, it takes a fair bit of effort but the servo handles the task with ease.
I can't lower them properly yet because I have yet to run the lazy jacks to the servo, when they are connected the gaffs will pull down easily and the bulk of the sail will be controlled rather than spilling out all over the deck.
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Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
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Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
27.5 degrees, that's about 1.5 too hot to be comfortable for me, you can keep it !
Back to ship building.
The epoxy has set, the control room is re-fitted and I have done more "plumbing"
I hope the pics make sense.
This shows two tubes running to the winch drum, just held together with wire for now. I was going to solder them together but I am worried about the heat so I think I will use epoxy and epoxy putty to secure it all.
In the following pics you can make out the two tubes from the fore and main masts coming together and aiming towards the stern. There is another tube with a flared end facing forward towards the other two.
The idea being that a line off each boom will join to a single line that runs back to the winch drum. The gap between the tubes that allows for joining of the lines is located in the area of a large cargo hatch to allow repeat access should it be required.
Nothing is permanently aligned yet.
I flared the receiving tube to allow the join in the ropes to pass into the tube easily, I did this in the lathe. Anneal the tube then mount it in the chuck, place a centre drill in the tail stock and run the lathe in reverse while easing the centre drill into the tube. The cutting edge of the drill does not bite into the brass because the lathe is going backwards so the angled step on the drill acts as a gentle flaring tool.
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Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
I've started the "plumbing" in earnest. I tried getting all the bends right so I could run one unbroken pipe but it's not easy to do. I always knew I would probably need to cut and re-join to adjust angles and lengths and as you can see there are two such alteration points in this run.
This is the line that will control tacking on the mizzen mast, the fore and main will share one line onto the same winch.
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Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Progress at last!
I have worked out how to mount the servos and have done so in the aft deck house. The "box" will be epoxied to the ribs below and it holds the servos. The aft deck will be over half way up the sides of the box.
Once it is all done there will be a box lid in the form of the aft deck house that will fit neatly over the control box to close it.
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Bedford got a reaction from augie in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
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