Bedford

Poetic licence my friend, yes they are on her in the period you are modelling but they weren't original. Only you and a handful of us will know.
I can see why they were added though, she would have been a bit roly poly I imagine.

Poetic licence my friend, yes they are on her in the period you are modelling but they weren't original. Only you and a handful of us will know.
I can see why they were added though, she would have been a bit roly poly I imagine.

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

Slow Progress (as usual)
 
The run of the planking and their layout will be determined by three structural members, namely the rail on the bulwark as upper edge, the covering board, which marks the lower edge of the bulwark and the upper edge of which is marked in the original drawings, and the wales, the upper edge of which are also marked in the original drawings.
 
In order to physically define the top edge of the covering board, the waterways have to be installed first. The consist of a 1 mm x 1 mm styrene strip running along the inside of the bulwark stanchions. This is thicker than the actual water ways would be, but the thickness includes that of the covering board inside the bulwark stanchions. The space between the stanchions was filled with small pieces of 1 mm x 1.5 mm styrene strip. This is a tad wider than needed, but allows me to sand them down to the actual profile outside of the stanchions. While in theory the stanchions are spaced equidistant, the filling pieces still required a bit of sanding to fit them snuggly.

There are actually many different designs for the waterway/covering board arrangement and not any particular construction method is being followed here. The idea is to give the right visual impression after painting, not to follow prototype construction method. In fact, it would have been rather difficult to cut out the notches for the stanchions from the styrene strip representing the covering board at these dimensions, as would have been the prototype method.
 
The arrangement will be completed by a 0.5 mm x 0.75 styrene strip that will be shaped to a half-round profile using a scraper fashioned from a piece of razor-blade and that will be cemented along the upper edge of the covering board.
 
To be continued

Thank you Pat, Rick, John, Keith, Druxey, Veszett and Ian - and of course the rest of you have liked my work.
 
Yes Ian - I still use the old stinky stuff but still managed 14 coats - however see below!😬
 
Rick - very thin to ease cutting - about 0.010"
 
I set about making the anodes of which Canada has 14.
 
I wanted to give them a bit of shape so I decided to try pressing them. I started by making a press tool from mild steel. This was partially milled and finished by hand filing.
 

I used the machine vice as a press.

With a bit of cleaning up the first one turned out acceptable.

The pressed metal was quite soft - it is actually an old decoration that used to be a Christmas decoration. I think it might actually be a zinc alloy which seems quite appropriate.

Here are all 14.

All were drilled with 2 holes to take the mounting bolts. The slotted piece of wood is a crude locating jig to make drilling quicker.

The keel was drilled through to take the anodes (symmetrical on either side)

Then glued and screwed in place.

The anodes are spaced equidistant along the keel - so again I made a simple jig  to assist drilling of the holes.

I then used my previously made jig to drill the stabiliser holes. I always put off drilling holes in the hull - I think it is fear. You can see the jig has been modified to give better angular control of the drill. The Jig was taped securely to the hull and the holes were drilled with my heavy duty hand drill.

All was well.

Fortunately no damage to the paintwork ---------- but then ! succumbed and 2 more coats of Poly went on. Compulsive or what!!!!!!

Ant then another go with the super fine wire wool.

Somehow the final 2 coats seemed to help. The sheen was quite subdued and the finish was reasonably uniform which pleased me.
 
The next job is making the stabilisers and thereafter masking up for the spray paint job. 
 
That's all for now so back to catching up with all your builds.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks, she looks quite "salty" doesn't she.
 
It is truly written that "A fair line supersedes any given measurement" 

Vaddoc, you know I admire your work so please don't take this as negative criticism, it isn't!
I think we can make life hard for ourselves sometimes, like all the trouble you went to in order to get the deck profile printed. All I do is plot out the relevant points and draw it. You can use pins at all the mold stations and run a fairing batten (a length of thin section flexible wood strip) around them. This not only shows you any station points that are wrong but gives a guaranteed fair curve to the hull.
I've just built a full sized sail boat this way and it's very accurate and symmetrical. 

Keith, I miss progressing on my model of the 'Meteor', but I must admit I love being able to bring this model to life!
 
John

She's really looking the goods John
 

Ah, but this is how we learn. Especially useful for those wise enough to learn from the mistakes of others.

She's really looking the goods John
 

A major milestone in my eyes! Not only are the main staysails rigged, but the first square yard has been crossed. It's only sitting there at the moment. I hope to get all its rigging sorted out on Friday.
 
I might do a little more work on the shape of the main topmast staysail, but I'll wait until the well deck boats are on first so I can see how it would fit between the boats.
 
John
 

Thank you for the feedback Eberhard, Andy, Tom, Rick and Gary.
 
I seem to have a lot of distractions at the moment and I apologise sincerely for neglecting all your wonderful builds. This week is catch up week so be prepared.
In so far as Cangarda is concerned it has been slow progress. In real life she has been shipped off to Turkey to be a part of some rich kids museum and occasional private transport / play thing. Good that she has found a new home but what a pity she had to travel so far from home to find it.
 
The combination of other commitments, the lack of heating in the worksop together with post Christmas lethargy have all transpired to make progress rather limited. My biggest mistake has been to attempt painting the hull in deep mid winter. Each coat has been taking an age to dry.  I have tried to distract myself by doing some little jobs so what follows is a combination of those plus the never ending paintwork.
 
I decided to drill the holes to take the stabilisers. I started by making out the position with the aid of the laser level.

I decided that needed a simple jig to set the angles for the drill so I created the following. It takes its location from a slot that fits over the keel.

Then more coats of wipe on poly.

This was coat 8. 
 
Then came coats 9 and 10. With the workshop at 5 deg C the poly was staying tacky for 3 to 4 days.
 


Coats 11 and 12 then went on.


By coat 12 I was starting to write myself messages on the white board.

But then I'd find a little blemish and on would go another coat.

By coat 14 I decided that I had developed a bad case of Compulsive Painting Disorder.

But I then drew a line and resolved to apply no more coats. I left the hull for 5 days and then knocked back the surface with some very fine wire wool.



Best regards to you all. I will be catching up with your progress over the next week.
 
 

Another update. All the headsails are now completed, although I may re-run one of the fore topmast staysail sheets - we'll see. A start has been made on the main staysails, so it hopefully won't be too long before I can cross the first yard.  There are still quite a few other outstanding jobs to do other than rigging, however I'd like to get at least one yard crossed so that visitors can get more of an idea of where the model is going.
 
John
 

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Ah, but this is how we learn. Especially useful for those wise enough to learn from the mistakes of others.

Ah, but this is how we learn. Especially useful for those wise enough to learn from the mistakes of others.

Ah, but this is how we learn. Especially useful for those wise enough to learn from the mistakes of others.

Ah, but this is how we learn. Especially useful for those wise enough to learn from the mistakes of others.

In the stowed position, this griping spar was either secured to the deck or to davits, as shown earlier.

Filling the spaces between the bulkheads
 
After careful checking, the bulkheads were now cemented in place with Acrifix 192®, which is essentially liquid, unpolimerised Plexiglas®. This basically unifies two pieces with the same material, resulting in a virtually indestructible bond. Together with the tight fit in the milled slots, a very rigid framework resulted.
 
In order to facilitate fairing the bulkheads and prevent the very thin and flexible planking with styrene strips from sagging in, the space between them was filled with Rohacell® foam-board (https://history.evonik.com/en/inventions/rohacell), which is an acrylic equivalent to Styrofoam, but much harder and finer grained. I actually used material left over from the first project I built this way back in the early 1980s. It is sufficient to glue the pieces in place with general purpose glue. 

Spaces between the bulkhead filled with Rohacell® foam-board
 
The bulwark stanchions are actually very fragile and to support them during fairing and being able to turn over the hull, the spaces between them were also filled with Rohacell™, but this unit was not glued down to the rest. Unfortunately, I still managed to snap one stanchion … Grrr.

Spaces between the bulkhead filled with Rohacell® foam-board
 
The fillers were ground back to the bulkheads, the edges of which were blackened with a permanent marker to indicate when I touched them. I then progressed to fair the bulkheads.
 
In the meantime, also pieces for the gill and the transom were drawn and laser-cut from Canson-paper and then soaked in zapon-varnish. At time when this ship was built, transoms often had carved elements and false windows, low-relief pilasters etc. as indicated in the original drawing. These were built up in two layers on a backing layer. Carved profiles were imitated with thin wire glued into place. The gill was also built up in three layers.

Looking up through the Plexiglas bottom-plate
 
When I offered up the gill piece to the ‘counter timbers’ and checked, how the hull planking would run up against it, I realised that something was wrong. The last bulkhead was too full in the lower part, but completely conformed with the line in the original drawings. After some head-scratching and careful analysis of all the lines in the original drawings, it dawned on me that, while the rearmost frame was projected into the same plane as the other frames, it was in fact the profile of a cant-frame the trace of which was drawn onto the waterline-drawing. Some rough lofting confirmed that suspicion.

Extract from the original drawings with the misconceived cant-frames marked
 
There was no way of breaking off the faulty bulkhead due to the strong bond mentioned above. I had to shape the counter as is done in bread-and-butter construction. In fact, it might have been better to build up this area of complex curves from layers of Plexiglas right away. This kind of ships’ counters are not so easy to deduct from the lines drawings and to understand in its complex geometry – at least not, if you are not a trained naval architect. 

The correctly shaped counter and ornate transom
 
With the help of diamond burrs and files I managed to arrive at reasonable ‘free-form’ representation of the stern and trust that eventually the construction mistake will not be visible. After these corrections the gill-piece and the transom were glued into place.

Bow view of the hull ready for the planking layout
 
Admittedly this looks rather rough at this stage …
 
To be continued

Reminds me of Baldrick - "I have a cunning plan, my Lord." 😀
 
John

Just a small update. There's obviously still a lot of other work to do on the model, but I've started with the sails. Flying jib rigged and outer jib part furled and ready to rig.
 
John
 

Thanks Steve, the first legs are quite exposed to the south & SE, & of course the weather changes pretty quickly down there. I'll post some photos on return.
 

I was talking to someone just the other day who's doing that, can't remember who though. It will be a great trip, enjoy the sailing!