olliechristo

Hi all. I have spent about 10 hours since last mention of time.. 
 
I am plodding away at plates and really enjoying it.. Happy with the effect.
 
Thanks for all the help and ideas as usual gang.. I have done the gore line technique and now i have a straight line to work off back towards water line.. I decided to raise the waterline at bow, it seems to show this on the instructions mdel..
 
Will post another pic when copper is done..  Thanks all.. Ollie

Hi Alistair.. Yes what you said sounds right in regards to this method, but i am in the deep end paddling with you mate.. Even my pictures in plans show two techniques.. many ways to skin a cat type scenario i suppose..    One shows stealers at stern and one shows horizontal, parallel plates.
 
I also studied Rays Diana and Pegasus, you pointed me towards and like the way it finished up.. I tended towards this method for whatever reason.. The look i think.. I like having to cut less plates. 
 
Also whilst my plates do not actually overlap i am visualising that they are so plates are cut accordingly.. I hope that helps you understand my choices.. Ollie
 
Heres a  couple of pics from booklet to show you what i mean, i will be cutting up to the top row (which is already fixed now) as i see this as being much safer than cutting the water line on the ship as advised in plans.. .. one slip and your gone..
 
i didnt buy the dvd but you can watch part of it on the coppering, on youtube.. (modellers shipyard)
 
Ollie
 
 

bit of a lapse in my posts due to a big week at work but finally got the deck down!
this was my first attempt at "jogging" the timber also the 52413 spacing.
the final product turned out pretty good, the jogging was fun fitting it in place, but some of my spacing did get a bit wayward :S not too noticeable seeing its only really on two lines and will mostly be hidden with the wardroom.
 
Also a question about peoples preferences on deck sealing, swaying towards just a satin coat as is but i have heard wax could also be the way to go, opinions?  
 

Hi Alistair.. Yes what you said sounds right in regards to this method, but i am in the deep end paddling with you mate.. Even my pictures in plans show two techniques.. many ways to skin a cat type scenario i suppose..    One shows stealers at stern and one shows horizontal, parallel plates.
 
I also studied Rays Diana and Pegasus, you pointed me towards and like the way it finished up.. I tended towards this method for whatever reason.. The look i think.. I like having to cut less plates. 
 
Also whilst my plates do not actually overlap i am visualising that they are so plates are cut accordingly.. I hope that helps you understand my choices.. Ollie
 
Heres a  couple of pics from booklet to show you what i mean, i will be cutting up to the top row (which is already fixed now) as i see this as being much safer than cutting the water line on the ship as advised in plans.. .. one slip and your gone..
 
i didnt buy the dvd but you can watch part of it on the coppering, on youtube.. (modellers shipyard)
 
Ollie
 
 

Hi Ollie
I like you leading me on the way on this activity. Top work.  I just got the rest of my Amati copper tiles from Cornwall Models today - no excuses for me now. Not sure about this "gore line" - seen it some coppering but not in others. I only guess it is straight flow of tiles than run from the stem to the stern to set the upper curve that runs into the waterline? Below that the copper is set by stealers into that line? This aspect confuses me... I was just going to start at the keel and work up with stealers until I hit the curve right. Where did you get the advice about the gore line?
 
Cheers,
Alistair

There are several book on hull contruction that talk about the use and style of coppering.  Underhille. Monfeld,Gardner,etc.  Most will give you a base from which to start from.  One of the books I always liked was by Milton Roth titled Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern.  An oldy but a goody.
David B

Hi all. I have spent about 10 hours since last mention of time.. 
 
I am plodding away at plates and really enjoying it.. Happy with the effect.
 
Thanks for all the help and ideas as usual gang.. I have done the gore line technique and now i have a straight line to work off back towards water line.. I decided to raise the waterline at bow, it seems to show this on the instructions mdel..
 
Will post another pic when copper is done..  Thanks all.. Ollie

Hi all. I have spent about 10 hours since last mention of time.. 
 
I am plodding away at plates and really enjoying it.. Happy with the effect.
 
Thanks for all the help and ideas as usual gang.. I have done the gore line technique and now i have a straight line to work off back towards water line.. I decided to raise the waterline at bow, it seems to show this on the instructions mdel..
 
Will post another pic when copper is done..  Thanks all.. Ollie

I agree with all of the above. You are being too tough on yourself. That planking looks very sharp to me. Ollie and I briefly discussed this thing where you get things so tight that you virtually can't even tell that it is a wooden model...A delicate balance but you are treading the line very well in my opinion. A wee sand and you're away. Your hull lines look spot on too - that counts for a lot. Bloody good work!
 
Cheers
A

Thanks Rod.. Im only doing copper on one side,, which also means i have plenty of plates to play with.. this side is also painted. Its my more authentic side... The other side will remain all timber   I get to try out most mediums... And i kind of get two models out of one.. Ollie

Thanks all.. Alistair that is really well said and resonates with me.
 
I understand the overlap much better now, just to decide which way now.. I gather they overlap right to the next set of rivets..
 
They are 6mm x 12 x 0.2 thick.. I may leave keel as is and overlap the hull as I can see it would prevent a lot of cutting..
Regards all.. Ollie

Hi Folks,
 
I was just taking Ollies advice to go do something else whilst awaiting my Timber.. So I built the Serving Machine (I'll have some photos tomorrow hopefully, if it hasn't fallen apart in the meantime!  ) I haven't tried it yet but the bits rotate the way they are supposed to anyhoo so we shall see!
 
Jim: Shipments from CMB can take a bit longer to reach me over here and the weather I'm sure hasn't helped, I won't panic until mid next week, than I'll get onto Sam (When I order a big parcel, with a Kit in it for example, it only takes 2 to 3 days, but this timber shipment would be coming via regular mail) Hope your own Ballahoo is moving along better than mine
 
Kester: Am looking forward to your photo updates on Sherbourne (don't forget to photograph the Servings) but it wasn't me chasing the photos of the Mast Head, but I do recall reading the request over on your build!
 
Jan: Welcome on board as they say, I was planning on starting my own little Sherbourne build shortly (around now in fact! or at least after 2nd planking on Ballahoo) but the delay and the fact that I'm having such fun with Ballahoo may mean I put it off for a bit longer, I shall have a think about it, originally I had planned on taking the lessons learned on Ballahoo immediately over to the other builds in case I forgot them but I think I'll be ok!
 
Dee_Dee:  Yup, I'm still blaming you for putting me onto Abebooks..     thanks for putting me onto them, a brilliant book shop!! How goes the Lobster Smack by the way?
 
Nigel: No worries re Abebooks, we can both blame Dee_Dee for that (Sorry Dee Dee  ) could spend a lot of money on there!  I picked up the Longridge book about 15 years ago when I was over in Falmouth (there was a fantastic Nautical Bookshop not far from the Harbour, it was an Aladdin's Cave and I had to be literally dragged out of the place) I understand that the Vikky he built isn't in the best of condition at present, heard that on here somewhere,  sad really as it is an amazing model!!
 
Lawrence: Thanks for dropping by again, as you probably gather I've still no Timber  but I'm occupying myself by visiting all the other builds on here (oh and making Serving Machines of course) I see you are starting to put the 'sticks' on Vikky, and mighty fine it looks too!
 
All the Best Folks
 
Eamonn
 
Hope I didn't miss anyone! :mellow:
 
I'm off now to make up some 'tools' to help feed the string into the serving machine!

Thanks Rod.. Im only doing copper on one side,, which also means i have plenty of plates to play with.. this side is also painted. Its my more authentic side... The other side will remain all timber   I get to try out most mediums... And i kind of get two models out of one.. Ollie

Thanks Rod.. Im only doing copper on one side,, which also means i have plenty of plates to play with.. this side is also painted. Its my more authentic side... The other side will remain all timber   I get to try out most mediums... And i kind of get two models out of one.. Ollie

Hi Guys,
 
Ollie:  I was contemplating getting stuck into making my Rope Serving Machine, the bits of which have been sitting on my work bench for some time now! 
In fact this leads me to a question I was going to pose later to everyone: Was seizing done on these smaller boats? and if so where?  ( I suspect the answer is Yes, and in much the same places as on larger boats!)
I refer to Ballahoo, Sherbourne & Convulsion here.
 
Nigel: Sorry 'bout that..  (I can send you on a 'Branch' if that would help! :mellow: or even a 'Twig or two', though with the wind we have had I suspect you may have plenty of Branches near you!  Rough eh?
 
Kester: Keith Julier's books have been taking a severe looking through! in fact I was going through MSW's Book section and found a very recent post from Nigel (above) listing Mr. Juliers books by content and discovered I had missed one of his books!!  the one with the Lady Nelson!!! (as you know similar to Sherbourne!) you see I thought he had 4 books, the 4th of which is winging it's way from America I think! but Nigel showed me that there are 5 Books! (Later Edit: I thought wrongly that the 4th was Period Ship Kit Builders Manual!! )  (from Nigel's list I was missing The New Period Ship Handbook) this was rightified late last night along with the Rigging book by Underhill (both for about £11 in total for the pair, a BIG WooHoo to Abebooks!)
 
Thanks for checking in folks and of course for the Likes.
 
Fingers Crossed For The Post Man Today (Will it Won't it.. No End of Excitement on the Ballahoo Log! :mellow:  :mellow: )
 
Eamonn
 
Don't forget the Serving Question above there somewhere..

Ollie, you have done such a beautiful job on the hull planking, it seems such a pity to cover it up with copper plates!
 
cheers
Rod

Thanks all.. Alistair that is really well said and resonates with me.
 
I understand the overlap much better now, just to decide which way now.. I gather they overlap right to the next set of rivets..
 
They are 6mm x 12 x 0.2 thick.. I may leave keel as is and overlap the hull as I can see it would prevent a lot of cutting..
Regards all.. Ollie

Hi Ollie
I'm going to be using the Amati plates - 0.1mm thick. They come in strips 7 plates long and by Ray's log (I think) you can lay them as strips - I think RMC does this too. The overlaps are only over the stealers as I understand - Ray's logs show this best. In any case I'm totally new to coppering so I'm at sea here too!!!
 
Cheers
Alistair

If I was you I would start working on something else.. Or attack that tree

Hi all, started my copper on hull today.. Being a mosaic artist and tiler, i think i have this one sorted...
 
I am very happy with how it is going and much like a mosaic or intricate tiling you just have to get into that meditative rhythm and hand cut most pieces.. .
 
i got some gel CA in a very easy to use applicator.. Works well but will need a bit of cleaning up on some spots..
 
One thing i am wondering with marking of waterline.. Do you level referencing deck or the keel to mark it?  Or does it depend on ship.?
 
 I have leveled the deck from bow to stern.. .. I think that seems logical.. Regards Ollie
 
 

Hi all..    Thanks John, Bindy and tom..
 
Another 5 hours doing my fake tree nail detail on hull..
 
I have three different shades of putty i have made up.. I try many shades till i am satisfied.. I thank everyone here for the tips, to think i wasn't even going to do tree nails.. They certainly help the viewer understand the underlying construction of this tye of ship.. I am happy with it that;s for sure.. .
 
I managed to achieve the effect i wanted.. Visible but not standing out obviously... Click on images to see closer up//
regards Ollie

Many ships had drag. This means that the keel is not parallel with the water line. Look at the plans. They should show you the water line. The draw a line parallel to the line underneath the keel keeping track of the distance 1 to 3 inches your judgement. Then measure the keel from the base line if the keel runs parallel it is then easy. On your building prepare a holding station that will hold the keel at a even distance from the board and 90 degrees on the sides. On this site there are pictures of a waterline markers. Trace it around the hull. If there is drag do the same thing with the keel holder but make it even from the waterline. I hope this helps.
David B

Yes to drag ... The stern was usually deeper in the water. That created the drag ... it allowed faster changes of course and added stability. Also helped stop the drift to leeward when sailing. I think that David has the right of it!!!
 
Tom
 
PS starting out nice!! It will be neet to see the finish!

Yes, Ollie, simply check the waterline from the plans.  In the meantime, be aware that the copper plates should overlap each other.
 
John

Amen!!