olliechristo

Ok John    Thanks Eamonn, that actually all makes sense to me,, appreciate your input.. I think this angle shows the situation better... I have drawn a new line and i think it will be best cut back to darker line..  Ollie

Looks good mate. I went for 2b on all sides, came up nice, it's certainly a fine balance getting your decking to your liking, certainly pays to do some testing like you have. Ollie

Looking ship shape.. You.are really making sure everything is thought out.. I like it all. Can't believe your two rulers could be that much out!! Ollie n

Newsflash....
 
- Bulkheads and Filler Blocks are now all bevelled/shaped .
- Stern Counter Frames are gluing as we speak.
- False Deck has been dry fitted & sanded flush with the edges of the bulwarks.
- Stern Counter & Stern Facia removed from their 'matrix' and sanded, I removed the Stern Counter early to help the 4 X Counter Frames in line as they glued.
- Bulwarks are soaking in water prior to being gently shaped around a 'straight sided' mug. Thanks Jim for that tip, see his Ballahoo build to see what I mean  at 'HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits'.
 
Here are a few photos of the Shaped Bulkheads and Blocks, compere them to the shots from yesterday above to see the difference.
 
Thanks for checking in
 
Bye for Now
 
Eamonn
 
 
 
 

Just some photos of the latest additions (to go with my Post No. 32 above).. All the Bulkheads are glued in position, the deck is only 'dry-fitted' to assist in aligning the B/Heads.
 
In the Stern on shot, you may just be able to make out the 'thinning' of the Keel where the Stern Post will go to assist later planking (it is the beginnings of the Rabbet) but following great advice I haven't extended the Rabbet forward, this won't be done until 2nd planking (Thanks again to all those who are helping me along, it is much appreciated!)
 
Sláinte,
 
Eamonn
 
 

I'd say ye aren't too far away from ideal now Ollie, just didn't want to see you get into the same issues I had with my 'pre MSW discovery' Bounty! (She was nothing too serious, one of those builds where the various bits came weekly in the post and gave me huge fun and no small amount of head scratching due to very dodgy photo/text instructions, the photo examples were from about 3 different builds of the boat and contradicted each other!!   :mellow:   )
Result was some serious upward swept planks and lots of crowding, looks ok (from about 3 feet away) but I wouldn't show her to a proper boat modeller
 
Best of Luck Mate
 
Eamonn

Ok John    Thanks Eamonn, that actually all makes sense to me,, appreciate your input.. I think this angle shows the situation better... I have drawn a new line and i think it will be best cut back to darker line..  Ollie

Ollie,
 
Looking at the top right photo it seems that your garboard strake is certainly coming too far up the stem, but in the lower photo it looks pretty good, so the photos aren't showing the true situation.  If you'd pay my air fair up to Queensland, I'd be happy to have a look for you!
 
Seriously, though, if it's showing any signs of any sort of upward sweep at the bow, then it's too high.
 
John

Hi Ollie, That is some very tidy looking planking you have there, I only hope mine comes out even half as well.. seriously!
 
Looking at the diagram, does the Garboard come to a virtual 'Arrow Head' type of point ? (where the point is in the centre line of the plank) your one looks a as though the point is at the right side of the plank  (looking at the boat as she is in the middle photo)
Please note that I am not in any respect knowledgeable on this, but just comparing the two I did something like that with my Bounty and the planking took a rather 'upward' run the further along I went, resulting in crowding.. this is before I knew about Spilling and the like!
What do you think?  If you judge it to be an issue it looks easy to adjust (as it may just be the 'point' that needs trimming) but as I said, that is some lovely planking! I will probably be beginning my own first layer shortly, and would very much appreciate you 'Casting a Cold Eye' over it.
 
Take Care Mate
 
Eamonn

I should be more clear on what i'm actually saying.. This diagram from a tutorial shows it.. Looking at it again now i think its okay... Ollie

Hi all.. I was wondering if the garboard plank i fitted looks okay where it meets the keel at bow.. Should it angle down more?  Ollie

Hi all.. I was wondering if the garboard plank i fitted looks okay where it meets the keel at bow.. Should it angle down more?  Ollie

I should be more clear on what i'm actually saying.. This diagram from a tutorial shows it.. Looking at it again now i think its okay... Ollie

Thanks Bugra also Thanks Daniel will look at getting a set of those plans, And Nenad, i see what you mean with with the cut of the stern, i spent a while investigating what way to do it but ended up using the keel upright angle and cut the block flush to the existing angle, there will probably be some adjustments to molds and fittings in the future but i think it should be alright.
 
anyway back to planking! its been pretty smooth sailing so far, a couple weak spots in a couple strips but nothing too major.


to plank with minimal gaps im chamfering the planks with my dremmel tool


also does anyone have a good shot of the underside of the actual ship? the pictures in the book seems to show a stepped transition where as im thinking it would be molded smooth into the false keel, any suggestions?
heres what i mean


 
 

Gday all, this will be my second build but first log, wasn't really sure on posting one for the first through my baby steps, seing all the amazing builds her got me a bit intimidated...
I have come to realize from seeing how helpful the input can be from other members, to improve my techniques and general knowledge of the ships, it will be very beneficial for me to post one for this build.
 
i received this kit as a (very hinted towards) Christmas present and have been upgrading my workspace ever since to accommodate building it



after gluing all the frames into the keel i noticed a kick in the stern, i tried to steam it out best as posible and rasp more off the effected side


starting to glue and nail on the hull planking is an experience seing as this is my first single layer ship, i will be coppering the waterline and painting above so it wont be too bad



i purchased copper rudder hinges and 100 copper plates to test from modelshipyard, but am a bit unsure to the exaggerated rivet heads on the plates and am up to sugestions or a correction, also would anyone have what would be closest to correct dimensions for the plates, im unsure that i got the right ones :S



 

Hi All, I trust that everyone had a wonderful and Merry Christmas and that 2014 will be a fabulous year for us All. Well I tender my grovelling apologies to you for taking so long to get back to the forum after the last post above. The computer problems were eventually resolved by replacing the motherboard which meant that it was almost re-built with new bits and pieces to get it up and running. Work had top priority and once back on line it was back to work, Christmas and a crook back (not from any particular activity), it just decided to interfer with other plans. It's improving but it eventually worked out in my favour. Sitting is a bit of a problem at the moment but standing isn't, so I was able to do a bit of work on the model. I've attached some photos for you to have a look at. I ummed and arred on the kit configuration of the model and had a change of mind along the way and something that Adrieke said prompted me to reconsider, so I'm trying to build it in line with the replica vessel rather than a straight kit model. Thank you for your thoughts on this Adrieke........
Anyway, I've still got a bit of painting to be done but thought I'd post these photos so please let me know what you think and have a great day.
 
Best regards to you All,
Rowan D.

The update you're having when you're not having an update!
 
No photos at the moment, but just a quick not to let you know that the4 'Pritt' is still creeping ahead.
 
I'm still working on drawing the frames and making frame blanks, but hopefully next time I'll have the framing jig made up and something a bit more progressive to report on!
 
John

Thank you guys !!,
 
I know the next part it is not exactly after the instructions either ..
I don’t like all the “visual” plywood parts and as I’m not intent to paint my model I try not to use too many different materials/colors.
 
According to the instructions the stairs to the lower decks should be made as shown down below. I find the supplied columns slightly out of scale so I wanted to change them.
 

 
Browsing through MSW I stumbled over scrapers and I decided to make one from used scalpel blades and by grinding a column pattern into them ..
I used a thin grinder but still it was not easy, not very accurate & it removed very quickly too much.
.. just by trying, trying & trying..  finally !! (more luck than science) I had created some usable scrapers      
 

 

 
By using a round stick in a lathe (unfortunately not my own)  and using the scraper, I succeeded to produce some columns in a better scale
 

 

 
After this  I also wanted to change the handrails a bit.
I needed 3 Staircases, so I decided to use a jig to make sure to keep all the parts in place and in the right angles during the gluing process.
 

 

 
I noticed that some plywood around the hatches would still be visible after mounting the stairs.
I glued a very thin border around the frame to prevent this and mounted all the columns and the handrail section.
 
 
 

 
And added handrails to the stairs.
 

 
Here it is, the very first one waxed & fitted in position..
 

 

 
...

Cap Square Making
 
Finally, I got sometime on my update after such a long while. This is done like 2 weeks ago, and now I'm slowly putting up my works here...

I started working on it once my copper sheet arrived, and also made a jig to help on. Here's it is.. a short one tho  
 

 
I cut a 2mm strip from it.
 

 
 And with the aid of my jig to create the curve on it.

 

 
To save time, I made them only for those exposing on the deck. Total of 20 guns, so 40 cap square.

 
I also added nail detail to it, and continued to blacken.
 

 
Thanks for viewing! 
 

I have been painting the yellow 'stripes' for what seems like weeks.  The Humrol paints need 4 to 5 coats, sanding between coats, to give a good finish.  Each coat needs at least 24 hours to dry properly for sanding (800 - 1200 grit). I have used Humbrol maskol for the first time.  Once you get the knack (put it on quite thickly), it's very effective, though I missed some bits, so there are a few minor paint marks on the gunports. The stuff must be taken off after 3 days  - I cheated and left it on for 4 without ill effect - but given the number of coats required and the time needed, the time limit is a bit of  pain.  The following pictures I hope will give you some idea of how the stuff looks when you take it off. The painting has not yet been touched up.
 




 
I have now finished the roudhouses, painted (there's still some masking tape shown in the picture) and attached the decoration.


 
I made a mess of the gundeck stairs - put them at too steep an angle and I have one 'half' of the stairs bigger than the other. For some inexplicable reason I left them as they were when I glued them to the hatch.  Moreover I didn't make provision on the lower deck for the stanchions (I know I am not alone in that). But I did come up with a solution to all but the problem of the badly divided stairs  As you will see I tacked on two pieces of previously drilled wood to the bottom of the stairs. Fitted all the stanchions  and the rope - and so the whole assembly is complete and ready to fit whenever it is least likely to be damaged.  The picture showing it on the ship shows it dry-fitted.
 





 
Finally, for those who may be interested, here are the ship's boats that I completed some time ago.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

s'OK I forget stuff too but as you are a contractor I've helped build the real deal and you know that there are NO STRAIT LINES on any true sailing ship hull!

Thanks guys, Tom you raise a very valid point. I didn't think.of that about the paint and I should know being in.construction and renovations
...

Thanks very much, Jan. I think we must both be in the same age group, then. I'm certainly no better than you when it comes to workmanship.
 
You are lucky in that I haven't taken pictures of all the failed attempts at getting things right. After failing with the milling idea, I made two complete captain's companionway windows before I could find the skills to finalise one -- the perspex was particularly difficult to get the hang of as it melts so easily with the heat of cutting, and if CA glue comes into contact it ruins the surface (the trick here was to leave on the plastic covering that comes with the perspex sheet and remove it just before the final cut of the horizontal grooves).
 
So you see it really is just a matter of determination, thinking, learning about the materials and tools, and, of course, practice to see what happens when you try something out. The pictures I made of the final version make the whole process seem more straightforward than it was -- although in reality, once I had the hang of things, it really was straightforward (discounting the unexpected episode with the vacuum cleaner!).
 
As to the cannon, well, I'm just about to try my hand at milling the sides today -- having spent a while yesterday making sure I have the measurements right and practising on a bit of oak floorboard that my neighbours threw out. It's going to be very interesting, and I'm waiting to see how it all turns out myself!
 
Tony

And Another Update, featuring Real Life Actual Photos This Time.. I'm really spoiling ye all 
 
Anyhoo..
I fixed up a building board and clamped the keel between two pair of 90 degree angles, would recommend getting these in line with each other least you induce a 'nice' bend in the keel!!
This let me set the keel down Level and Perpendicular with the board and allowed me to glue fit two bulkheads in place. I dry fitted another Bulkhead at the stern (B/Head No. 10, I think) which enabled me to put the deck in place (centred) to help align the 2 glued B/H's (the Red Clamp is just to keep the deck piece flush with the Keel)
 
I will let the glue set before continuing with the B/H's.
 
Question Time   (See Arrow on 2nd Image)
I notice that the 'aft most' outside edges of the B/H's sit out from the Deck piece slightly by 1 or 2 mm (Remembering the 'fore' parts are only roughly bevelled at this stage) as things stand this would leave a gap where the Bulwarks will meet the deck at a later stage ! Deck planking would of course solve this, but my Question is.. Should I sand these bulkheads flush with the deck?  I know that the 'fore' corner/edge of these B/H's is to be bevelled properly, but should I sand the rear corner/edges too (just the top 1 or 2 cm's where the Bulwarks would go, these 'Horns' are to be removed later anyhow) ?
Hope that question makes sense.
btw, the 2 bulkheads are fairly level with each other (perhaps 1mm or so out) it's just my photography that isn't 'level'..
 
Take Care Folks.
 
Eamonn
 
 

Ollie,
 
The planking above the wale would normally be parallel sided, but below the wale the planking will vary considerably in width, being widest at the stern and narrowest at the bow.  The run in between will not be a simple taper, but the plank width will vary depending on the hull shape.  Typically, the planks will be widest at the stern, then narrow in and then become a little wider about midships and then narrow in again towards the bow, but the actual shape is very much dependant on the shape of the hull.
 
The 'run' of the planking is simply the line of each strake of planking along the hull.
 
In this photo of the replica of the schooner 'Enterprize' (1829) under construction in Melbourne, the 'run' or the shape of the lines of planking can clearly be seen.
 

 
John