Q A's Revenge

I have a variety of vee blocks that I could use but I'd probably use my finger plate. Different size brass bushes can be placed in the clamp. The one pictured is for a 5mm centre drill.

 

 

Or you could just do it with something like a bench block if you can temporarily fix it in place.

 

 

Just a vee cut into a piece of wood will work well enough though as Mark says. Just bring the drill bit down into the centre of the vee first then clamp the wood in place before placing your dowel into it. It's probably worth spending a little time to make a jig that can be kept safely for future use.

They look nice but seem quite pricey. I have one or two full size (they arent that big!) Two Cherries brand chisels and they were no where near that price. I suppose they must be much harder to make.

I have to say that, that "tailstock" is incredibly flimsy and if it's only 0.2mm out then it's far better than one might expect, especially for a wood turning lathe.

Thanks for the info, Nick. Could you give a link to the tool rest that you found online?

 

Tony

Robert Sorby make them as well.

 

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/modulartoolrestsystem.htm

A comparison.

 

There's quite a difference in noise between a "silent" 30db unit and a standard 50-60db one.

Also see what this says about getting one with a tank:

 

http://airbrush-guidance.com/buying-an-airbrush-compressor-here-is-what-you-need-to-know-before-you-buy

Hi.

I also use varnish ( of the right colour ) to glue gratings.

Regards Antony.

Only just seen this Anthony. Is it really strong enough? Sounds like a good idea though, gratings can be fiddly. Fancy doing a tutorial? :-)

 

Vic.

I generally don't buy cheap drill bits or even sets for that matter unless they are on special offer. In the past I've bought the sizes I needed at the time and from reputable suppliers, normally companies like Buck and Hickman. Surprisingly to many maybe, but it's normally cheaper to buy from a local engineering supply house if you have one than from a DIY store. The one notable exception I made was many years ago when I took the chance on a cheap set of number drills at a very good price at a model engineering show. They turned out to be made in India but I've not had any quality issues with them at all and still use them now. Having said all that I do keep a "rough" set of drills for non critical work!

Still not quite sure how you did this Stuntflyer which is worrying as I'd probably do the same thing! Your marking out in picture six looks fine.

The last lot I bought were on special from screwfix, £19.99 at the time.

 

http://www.glue-it.com/model-engineering/tools/cutting-tools/erbauer-drills-hss-tin.html#.UuBTKcuQGSM

Sorry to hear of your problem Anthony. Have a look at this, it may enable you to reclaim your dodgy drill bits!

 

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,459.msg3581.html#msg3581

Not sure if anyone has done a build log of this kit on here? If not maybe one of the other longboat logs will be of help. Lots of good stuff in this one although the construction may be different it might help with planking.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/pinnace%20instructions%20me.pdf

So can anyone build a mini version of this (THE power tool if you can have only one):

Not as versatile but convertible from Lathe/mill/drill and very, very much smaller...

 

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/draper-22816-micro-100-kit-150w-240v-micro-metal-lathe-with-mill-and-drill-kits-p46100

 

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/draper-22816-micro-100-kit-150w-240v-micro-metal-lathe-with-mill-and-drill-kits-p46100

Probably one of these.

 

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-heavy-duty-flexible-drive-unit

 

With the right attachments it could be used for lots of stuff. I should buy one really!

If you plan on getting a compressor check the decibel rating, some of them are quite noisy.

I've always liked the look of this type of bench grinder but they don't seem to be available in the UK. Could be very good fitted with a diamond wheel, I could sharpen carbide stuff.

 

Thanks for your answers folks. After a quick search it seems most model shops still stock Ramin dowel, it's just not something I can pick up at the DIY store any more!

Can't think why it shouldn't work, what model shop vac is it?

I still might buy a ProEdge, until then though I will continue to use my much modified Record BDS250

 

SAFETY FIRST if you plan to shape wood and sharpen tools on the one machine you must carefully remove all wood dust from the machines nooks and crannies before sharpening tools. If you don't you'll quickly find the sparks from tool sharpening has set fire to the wood dust! DAMHIKT.

 

 

 

 

 

I have a bench grinder but don't use it very often. If you do buy one invest in a decent tool rest for it, the ones supplied aren't normally very good. I sharpen all my lathe tools, both metal and woodworking tools on my belt and disc sander. Personally, if I didn't have either then I would definitely invest in a Robert Sorby ProEdge.

 

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/proedge.htm

 

Me too. It's between this and the St. Roch! Looking forward to seeing some pictures!

25-30 years ago DIY stores here in the UK sold nothing but Ramin dowels unless you wanted a broom handle. Last week I happened to check out the wood stock in my local DIY store and all the dowel is made from Pine. So what happened to Ramin dowel, is it a "fashion" thing or something else? Don't need any, just asking ... :-)

Nice build. They had this completed model for sale in a local garden centre. It was priced a little bit lower than buying the kit, strange.

The make of the airbrush should not make any difference, its more about whether its single or double action. From what I've read, single action airbrushes are easier to use for beginners and have fewer parts so are easy to clean. There are also lots of cheap single action airbrushes on the market. Iwata are one of the better brands if a bit spendy!

Good link Frank, thanks for that!