Q A's Revenge

AntonyUK · February 16, 2014

I have orderd the Hatchttepartworks mags.

Regards Antony.

It's quite large when finished, what will you do with it Anthony, make a case for it?

edmay · February 16, 2014

These perhaps?

February 16, 2014

Would this work as well as bees wax or better?

David B

In posts #10 and #15 it was suggested that beeswax will degrade the line. Conservators wax (microcrystaline) was suggested as a better alternative.

Not tried it yet myself though...

February 16, 2014

Getting tempted, couple if questions ... I understand it's 120 parts to complete and they send out 4 parts each month. Can you get them quicker if you want or do you have to wait? Is the price fixed at £5.99 an issue?

February 16, 2014

Looking good Michael, I like the box.

I was wondering if you had a ball turning attachment as well then read the text!

February 16, 2014

I've used Renaissance Wax on lots of different things including tools etc.

I'm getting a little low on supplies though so I'm going to try this one next as it's a bit cheaper.

They are both Microcrystalline wax so should be just as good.

For those that haven't used this type of wax it's a soft wax paste so should soak straight into rigging etc.

February 15, 2014

Looks like laser cut MDF?

February 14, 2014

I only have these size blocks to try but it works fine. The wire pictured is the Stonfo Bobbin threader (nice little tool by the way) and is 0.29mm. The Clover threaders arrived and they are much finer wires at 0.19! The "rope" is about 0.4.

Aside from working well and not needing to do anything to the rope the threader also holds onto the block for you while the rope is threaded.

Not sure I'll use these particular blocks but I'll start another thread about that...

February 13, 2014

Thanks for that David, I'll have a look at that later.

February 13, 2014

Thanks for that Popeye. I seem to have all the fittings except the two lower parts of the masts and the strip wood. Will upload pictures soon.

Vic.

coxswain · February 13, 2014

What to do. I started building this many years ago and gave up in frustration due to one too many interruptions! I still have nearly all the parts and the plans. Sadly several house moves have left the hull in a poor condition. I was a little unhappy with a few parts of the build at the time as well so now I'm not sure what to do. My gut feeling is to try to take it apart and trace the parts onto new stock material. Replicating the false decks could be a bit tricky for me though. I'll upload a few pics when I get a moment.

http://www.billingboats.com/images/BB5004%20Gladan.jpg

It's a limited edition now so doubt I could get replacement parts from Billings and they'd probably want more than I paid for the whole kit for them anyway!

Lots of dirt, dust and rusty pins!

February 11, 2014

These also look ok if you take the time to make a handle. Also on Amazon.co.uk with free shipping. ;-)

http://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/64561667/clover-embroidery-stitching-tool-needle?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing_promoted_en_gb&utm_campaign=supplies_low

February 9, 2014

I've just bought one of these. I suspect it will only be of use for fairly large blocks but it was such a nice looking tool I couldn't resist!

http://www.troutcatchers.co.uk/acatalog/Stonfo-Bobbin-Threader-2-447-2458.html

Craigie65 · February 9, 2014

interesting link - what are we looking for?

I was wondering as well Craig. Think it may be this:

http://www.taimen.com/en/se/product/stonefly-bobbin-threader_99931416/103887

February 9, 2014

There's also a few here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php

I'm bad Mark, I should have had those on the list. Now added.

February 8, 2014

Post #18 has a link: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/thread_data.htm

That has metric data (maj dia) for American threads, no need to convert.

February 8, 2014

Something else that may be of interest is the relationship of the parts. On my bought ones the jaws are around 28mm thick, the pin is 9mm dia and the thread is M6.

Or put another way the pin is 1.5x the diameter of the thread and the jaws are 3x the diameter of the pin. I don't think anything is tool critical except if the pin is too large the hole for it could weaken the jaws.

As you've found out though, working with stock materials available will be easiest.

February 8, 2014

Probably the first one in the Rope and Canvas blog.

WackoWolf · February 8, 2014

I have seen an American thread chart that shows the major diameter as a metric measurement. That's probably the best you'll likely to get because most folks work in either imperial or metric and don't really need to know what you're asking. It's sounds like you really need two thread charts so you can compare sizes. If I can find any suitable charts I'll link them for you.

Edit. Thinking about this some more can I share my own thoughts on suitable sizes?

I have some store bought clamps with 105mm long jaws and they have M6 threads on the screws.

If you want to make clamps with metric threads then I suggest that M3 is probably the smallest size you'll likely to use unless you plan to make some really small clamps. For my own use I've chosen M4 as a start and if I want to make something a little bigger or smaller I'll try M5 or M3. For some of the imperial sizes mentioned you may need to go down to M2.5, M2.2 or even M2 though. Be aware that although M3.5 and M4.5 are available in standard right hand taps and dies you might struggle to get LH versions!

Although I use only metric threads if I could get suitable taps and dies at a reasonable price I would most likely use 1/8" and 3/16" Whitworth as they have a nice coarse thread pattern for faster opening and closing!

Some thread data here:

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/thread_data.htm