Aussie048

Thinning the bulwarks.
 
I decided to deviate from Chuck’s practicum on coppering the hull prior to thinning the bulwarks for a couple of reasons.  One, I thought I might damage the copper while handling the boat as I worked on the bulwarks and two, I figured that if I screwed up the bulwarks really bad I wouldn't need to spend all that time coppering the bottom of the hull.
 
I used the drum sander on my dremel to remove the majority of the extra material. I laid the erasure shield on the deck so I wouldn't cut into it. I then used an emery board and sandpaper to thin them down to about 3/64”.  I also squared up the corners at mid ship and carved out the stern and bow areas.  I also sanded the deck to its correct profile.  
 
For all the youngsters out there, an erasure shield (see photo) was used on engineering drawings done by hand, in pencil, when you wanted to erase only a small portion of a line. You would place one of the slots over the line you wanted gone and the shield would keep the adjacent lines from being erased.
 

Had a productive weekend.  I cut the 'step' in at the top of the hull, laid out and installed the stem, stern post and keel and craved the rudder.
 
To layout out the location of the 'step' I used my drafting compass.  I set the distance between the pivot point of the compass and the lead to 1/8".  Then by resting the compass's point on top of the bulwarks and using the bulwarks as a guide I was able to scribe a line completely around the ship's hull 1/8" down.  I tried craving the 'step' as described in Chuck's practicum but found it to be too labor intensive.  So I gave up the knife and tried my dremel.  (have the toys, might as well use them)  I used a sanding drum and my old drafting metal erasure shield as a guide so I wouldn't remove any material below the line. As I went I kept checking the width of the 'step' with my dividers.  Used an emery board to get the 'step' to its correct width and depth.
 

 
Next I laid out the stem as described in the practicum on paper to get the proper angle to glue the 1/8" wood strips to and to form a template I could later use to trace on the wood strips.  Once the strips were glued and dried I traced the stem on the strips and cut it out.  The keel I cut the little lip at the end and scarfed a joint between the stem and keel.  The stern post was fairly easy.  After gluing everything in place and letting it dry I used some filler to fill in the gaps. 
 



 
For the rudder, instead of gluing three pieces of the 1/8" wood strips together as in the practicum,  I used the 1/16" x 1/2" stock.  I cut two pieces approximately 2" long and glued them together to make one piece 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide.  I then printed out a copy of the rudder from the plans to use as a template. Used the dremel to get a rough shape and then used files an the x-acto knife to get the finished shape. Used sandpaper to round the front edge and taper the sides.  Finally I drilled the hole in the hull and did a test fit.
 



 
Also spend a little time making my own waterline marking jig.
 

 

Day 4: Started carving from station 5 to stern.  Actually starting to enjoy this.  Need to remember to keep chisel sharpened.
 
Finished rough craving and sanded hull.  Came out better than expected.  Have one dent but nothing real noticeable, may try filler to even it out.

Thanks for commenting patrickmil.
 
 
Day 3:  Well, I've read Mr. Passaro's guide and the directions that came with the kit for about the fifth time trying to work up enough nerve to start carving.  Finally started reducing the keel width and carving the hull at station 5.  Slow going, first time jitters, don't want to remove more wood than I'm supposed to.  Using 1/4" wide wood chisel and x-acto knife.
 
Carving continues. Getting more confident.  Finished rough carving from station 5 to bow.
 
D.W.
 
 

Day 2:  Using an x-acto knife I cut out the hull profile and station templates.  I wasn't sure if I should leave the line or cut the line off the template; I went with removing the line.  Next I adjusted the ship's profile by sanding the bottom of the hull and removing a portion of the stern.
 
One question I had was why do you need to cut the profile template in half?  To me it makes more sense to leave it as one piece to give you better control of shaping the keel.
 
Next I marked the centerline and offset that line a 1/16" on both sides to mark the keel.  It took me a while to decide where to mark the centerline because I realized that this line needs to continue all the way around to the deck.  After trying a few different locations I picked the one that visually appeared to line up along the center of both the top and bottom of the hull.
 
I should probably mention here, like so many others have pointed out, that these drawings and templates are, as we say in the profession, N.T.S. ( not to scale).  Being a structural engineer and working with scaled drawings everyday these drawings are not at an 1/8" per foot. 

Story is continuing ... next steps what I made was finishing a first layer of planking and preparation for next one - planking with walnut planks. Also I prepared backgrounds for a windows and deck doors.
 
Walnut wood is more stronger then lime wood (basswood - which word is better?), but has a better aroma during boiling .
 
Question: do you prefer boiling in water or in steam? And how long you have a wood in water / steam? Or do you use other way for planks bending?
 

In this kitt is missing me some cutter or jolly boat, so I made one. The progress you can see here. Also I made small changes on the deck with the door (as you can see on previous post).
 
I have a question: I don't know, how it is with boats in 17th-18th century, but is built cutter for Golden Star correct?
I also think about building a jolly boat, but I don't know, where to place it, so I take it to the future.
 
Note: cutter is not complet, because I'm waiting for a brass plates (in my order I must wait for another types of a wood).

@clearway: thank you. I plan to buy some book, but in Slovakia is hard to find some good books about old ship buildings and delivery from Amazon and ebay is more expensive, then book. But I looked to building steps of some people, which has experiences with building and also I checked couple of pictures of boats ... yes, still is here couple of things, what I must learn :-)
 
Here are other pictures from building:
 
what is a different from original plan is, that I replace "deck hauses" (I don't know, how to name it) by grades (but this you will see next time).

Several milestones in every build are worthy of small celebrations. The final hull plank is one of those "Miller Time" moments.

Some parts had to be detached from the deck in order to tread the lines trough the rollers and then glued back again.
 
 
 
 
Home made needle for treading lines trough rollers

Sails

All masts ready. Rigging commenced.

Working on the bowsprit.

The day started with rain, so any chance of getting Keel # 3 painted today was out of the question. I did do some fairing and filled in some slight low spots ( I used Titebond as a filler ) I then turned my attention to Keel # 5 , I first faired in the sheer line so that the top plank lines up with the top of the frames, I then did some rough fairing installed the deck did more fairing and got close to a final fairing. Here are the results

A question of size:
 
I was chatting on Skype with Mobbsie this evening and when I held up one of my boat frames, he commented that he hadn't fully appreciated the tiny size of these from the previous posts.  So, at his suggestion, here is a picture of the smallest of the Pinnace frames, poised on the fingernail of my left forefinger. (No comments on the enormous hand size please ).
 

Here are some pictures of her.
 
Note the Mizzen boom control riser at the stern.
I never would have been able to close haul the mizzen with the old one. 

 
Here is what she looks like with her sail patterns pasted to her. 
I put a temporary line up to hold her Jib.

The only thing I'm doing different is the first piece around the deadeye I am making shorter & adding an extra link in the assembly. I formed the first wire around the deadeye. After I'm sure it is shaped as best as I can get it I take the deadeye back out, apply CA glue, put it back together & crimp it with pliers to dry tight. I glue the junction point with CA glue & seize the area with some thin black thread. I glue the thread, touch up with some black paint. This actually holds very well & does not pull apart. After I finish this first step I will begin to put the other links together.
 

I don't have soldering supplies so I wasn't sure how I was going to go about doing the chain plate assembly. Saw in Keith's log about a log of Ferit KUTLU's Berlin build. I looked it up & liked his ideas on how to do this without soldering. The pics below are from his log that I will use to make mine.
 

Began making deadeye strops & chain plate parts out of wire & brass plates.
 

After deciding I would attach the chain plates below the rubbing strake I realized they were too thick & stuck out too far. The chain plate assembly wouldn't clear them without having to bend around them. I filed & sanded them down to half the thickness they were. Now the chain plate assembly will pass over them without having to bend around them.
 

Drilled holes in pin racks. Glued them on along with channels.
 

Bow davits are now glued on with their lion's head adornments. The davits been pinned as well glued. Now when the 2mm x 2mm Ayous trim shows up, I can finish the bow area. The heads were painted gold after epoxy glued.

Well, after a good nights sleep and looking at Sherry's log, I'm attempting to finish those davits or catheads. My fat fingers and tiny parts do not help.

Thanks Terry. I'm afraid that the only thing I could teach is to grow older, have more time for modeling and substitute more patience and perseverance for diminishing physical capabilities.
 
Sam, it's good to hear from you. It's been a while and I was getting a little concerned about you.
 
I've now made and installed the chain pumps, their aft cranks and crank supports and the pump dales. The pumps were made using the kit laser cut pieces as forms for boxwood planking. The cranks are blackened brass wire and are simplified due to their small size. The forward cranks and supports will be added as I move forward on the gun deck. I am in the process of making the remaining quarterdeck framing and the main jeer bitts.
 
Bob

Geoff, there will be more dust, but not today. In Orthodox calendar today is Djurdjevdan, one of the wide spread church celebration day, and almost all or have quests as hosts of their "Slava" or as quests go to family/friends who celebrate today. Today is Admirals brother Slava, and we went to meet family

More information on Wiki

" ...The "Slava" (lit. "celebration"; Serbian Cyrillic : Слава), also called Krsna Slava (Крсна Слава, "christened Slava ") and Krsno ime (Крсно име, "christened name"), is a Serbian Orthodox Church tradition of the ritual glorification of one's family's patron saint among Serbs, but also Serbs in Montenegro and Macedonia . The family celebrates the Slava annually on the saint's feast day . Unlike other major Orthodox Christian nations, i.e. Greeks , Russians , Romanians, Bulgarians , Georgians etc., Serbs do not celebrate individual name days, as when a person named after a saint would celebrate that saint's feast day , but instead they do it collectively as the name day of a certain family and/or clan. Serbs usually regard the Slava as their most significant and most solemn feast day . [1][2] The tradition of the Slava is also very well preserved among the Serbian diaspora on all 5 continents... "

 
We are atheist, but this is great opportunity to see wide family and to take nice day with them