MikeB4

I finished adding the fancy molding to my Cheerful.  I planned ahead with the lower molding and didn't glue the portion that will be removed for the addition of the top boarding ladder step.  I spent a few evenings thinning and fairing the inboard bulwarks.  Yes, this was a messy pain in the butt.  There was a bit of a learning curve to sand/fair the inside of a curve vs. fairing the hull planking.  The bulwarks framing/gun ports measure in at a hair under 1/16" of an inch thick, which is what Chuck recommended in his monograph.  I also faired the bulkhead tops so the false deck will sit flat on them.  Lastly, I added the keel plates.  I still haven't touched up the paint on the hull exterior, so the build still looks a bit rough at this point.  I've decided I'll do that after the deck planking is finished.
 
Erik

After a short, er . . . 6 ½ year break, I’ve resumed work on my Cheerful.  I imagine few of you actually remember my build.  It was sort of unexpected to be bitten by the wooden ship building bug again.  In August I was on a vacation in the Netherlands visiting the Museum Kaap Skil maritime museum in Oudeschild on Texel Island, off the north coast.  They have a huge 60 foot long diorama of the Texel Roads as it appeared around 1660.  It looks to be about 1/100 scale.  There are 160 ships/boats represented in the diorama!  Seen here: https://kaapskil.nl/en/discover/expositions/ship-in-sight-the-roads-of-texel-and-the-world/ That led me back to Modelshipworld.  And here I am.
 
I feel a bit like Rip Van Winkle waking up from a long sleep.  This website itself has changed.  Yellow Cedar is a new wood of choice. Wood suppliers have changed.  No more Crown Timberyard, but it looks like a good replacement with Modeler’s Sawmill.  Chuck is a few projects further along after the Cheerful (the laser cut fully framed Speedwell is a fascinating project, by the way).  There are still a lot of the same faces here, but the skill level on current projects has kicked up a few notches.  So, my hat is off to you folks.
 
It’s been an interesting few years for me.  We had this global pandemic thing.  After 14 years at the local government, I changed jobs a few times.  I was a bicycle tour guide in Boulder for 7 months (a great way of keeping in shape as a 53 year old).  Was the accountant for Left Hand Brewing here in Colorado.  And finally settled into being an accountant for the National Center for Atmospheric Research.
 
Though not working on Cheerful, I’ve still been active modeling from time to time.  One thing I seem to gravitate towards is building things in smaller scales than the norm, and detailing them to a level of the larger scale (which is why Cheerful is unusual for me, I’d be more comfortable building something 1/96 to 1/144 scale! Haha).  A few of my latest projects - A resin tugboat featured on this website: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22995-ytl-45-taiwanese-navy-tugboat-by-erik-w-finished-1350-scale/    For my model railroad, an N scale (1/160) 3d printed boxcar that I scratch built full underframe details: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=55256.msg758608#msg758608   and finished here:  https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=55365.msg760492#msg760492   A 1/72 scale WWII F6F Hellcat on a carrier deck with super detailed engine and cockpit:  https://www.militaryimages.net/threads/f6f-5-hellcat-wwii-usn-fighter-plane-1-72-scale.10858/   And probably my favorite, a 1/72 scale M1A2 Abrams tank with over 400 individual pieces of styrene and wire add by me to customize the tank.  Scroll down to see the scratch built stowage items:  https://www.militaryimages.net/threads/m1a2-sepv2-w-crows-ii-lp-1-72-scale-kitbash.10777/
 
Well, I’ve prattled on enough.  Where I had left off was having finished the hull planking.  The next step is supposed to be tree nailing.  I’ve put a lot of thought into that and I’ve decided to skip it.  It’s not because it’s time consuming and tedious as much as it’s a process that you can’t pull out and redo.  Most things on the build can be pried loose if you’re unhappy with them.  That, and I’d rather jump right back into cutting wood.  That’ll help maintain my motivation to keep making progress.  There are a few really good Cheerful builds out there where the builders have skipped tree nailing, Mike (stuntflyer), Glenn (glbarlow), and Ian (Seventynet).  You all have some outstanding other builds as well by the way.  Something to really aspire to for us newbies.  Ian, I particularly like your Hayling Hoy.  Never thought I’d desire to build a fully framed model before, but now . . .
 
So, where I am now is I’ve done what I’d call an almost-final sanding of the lower hull.  There were a few spots that needed attention.  I’ll do an absolute final sanding and paint touch up later.  That’s why the planking and hull still looks a bit rough.  I’ve also been adding the fancy molding.  It took a little trial and error to get my brass scraper made the way I wanted it.  I’ve added the molding to the stern, and port side.  Feels good to be building again!!
 
If you’re new to viewing this build, it’s good to have you along.  And if you’ve followed along before, welcome back!  Without further ado, here are some proof of progress photos.  It's hard to get the lighting right to show the contour of the fancy molding, but you get an idea from the last photo.
 
Erik
 

It's been awhile since I posted anything but I have continued this build. I've completed the thwarts.

It's been awhile since I posted anything but I have continued this build. I've completed the thwarts.

Nice Job Mike, Looks like a fun build
 
Best Regards,
Pete

I've installed the rub rail. I'm going to paint a blue strip underneath the rail a 1/4" wide.This is a fun project, I'd recommend this kit to anyone new to the hobby.

I've installed the risers and the seats.

What kind of paint are you using for the gold?

175.00 is more than reasonable for what your getting. Will there be a hard copy of the instructions with the kit or is that something that would be downloaded?

I don't know how many people will be able to start in this group but I would like to be in it if possible. If not in the first wave maybe the second.

I picked up a glue stick and a board made of birch. I think that should be hard enough to mount and carve the blanks on.

It's been a while and I've been slowly making progress.  I am almost finished the running rigging.  Does that mean I'm finished if I'm not doing sails or do I need to rig the sail tackle?  It seems to me of the sails are not on the ship that the rigging for the sails would also be off.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

The head grating battens are complete for now.  I added them all between the knees and the hull.  These were just 3/64" x 3/64" strips.  They were painted black ahead of time and cut to length.  Then glued into position with the slots.   I sanded them gently with 600 grit sandpaper and touched up the paint.  Next will be the forward pair seats.  Once these are done I can add the false rail and the two remaining seats of ease.  Its hard to photograph all these pieces painted black but I am trying my best.
 

For the head gratings, you have to be methodical.   I started by lightly sanding the initial for pieces and painting them black.  These are 1/16" thick.  Each of these pieces is laser cut slightly longer than you will need because everyone's model will vary a bit.
 

The first two pieces are the two cross beams with a camber or roundup on them.  These are the two that run port and starboard.
 
Sand them to length a little at a time taking equal amounts off both sides until they fit snug in the notches of the main headrail.  Dont make it so tight that it spreads your rails apart.  Make it fit just right.  
 
Then the two pieces that run fore and aft can be added next.  I recommend a dry fit of these four pieces before you glue them in permanently.  Make sure you have the notches facing the correct way.  Study these photos.   Because next we will be adding the smaller gratings pieces.
 
When you have these last two pieces in dry-fit only.  Examine them to see if they are running straight with the center line of the hull and that they are both centered.  Dont worry about the dust...you will be screwing up the paint job.   Once you glue them in permanently you can give the top a light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper.  Then touch up the paint.  But dont worry about it being perfect yet because you will be sanding and painting more with each step.

Next up are the smaller 3/64" thick battens which are also laser cut for you.  These are laser cut really long because you have to cut them to fit your model exactly.  I painted them black first. They have a slight curve as you can see.
 

I inserted one end into a notch in the head gratings and then marked the length I needed as it spanned across to the other side.  You will only be added the first six on each side at this point.  Those last two wont be added until after we put the seats in position later.  Carefully measure and cut all six grating battens and dry fit them first.  Then glue them in with yellow glue or tite-bond.   Brush away any excess glue to keep it neat.   Once dry you can lightly sand the joints and paint.  It should look like this at this current stage.
 

Then go back to the 1/16" sheet and remove the two knees with all the notches in them.   And also remove the long curved pieces with notches.   These can be painted black ahead of time as well.  Yes, even the bottom side.  The knees will be put in position first.  The longer leg of the knee sits along the main headrail.   You will no-doubt have to adjust the angle of the knee so it fits your model properly.  Both legs should sit firmly against the inside of the main rail and also the cross piece of the head.  
 
Note how it sits against the inside edge of the main rail.  Do you see how it slopes down rather than sit flush with the top of the main rail.  THIS is very important.  You see, there is the other curved piece with notches that will sit against the hull.  Those notches will have more battens running from them to its corresponding notch in the knee.   You want the platform created by these battens to have a nice flow into the hull.   You dont want them slopped up or down.   
 
Remember this when you place the curved piece against the hull.  As designed, I intended for this piece to fit directly under the fancy molding as shown in the photos.  Does this make sense?  Its real important but may vary on your model.  You may have to place it lower...every model will vary slightly.  
 
In that same photo you can see that I started added the battens between it and the knee.   I did the first two.  The inner two lengths.  I added these first because I wanted to show you guys that these two battens will/should run parallel to the center line.  This is yet another important piece of the puzzle and when you add the notched curved section along the hull be conscious of this.  You want that first notch to line up directly across from the one on the knee so those first two battens are straight with the center line.  Makes sense???  Plan the placement of those curved and notched pieces against the hull carefully.  
 
One end of this curved and notched piece is longer than the other.  I did this purposely so you would know which side should be the aft end closest to the catheads.   The longer end is towards the cathead.  
 
Tomorrow I will continue adding the remaining battens.  Then its onto the seats of ease.  Speaking of seats of ease.....until tomorrow then.
 
You should ask questions if you have them when doing this part.  There are lots of little details to remember about the placement of these pieces.  Read through the instructions a few times.

 
 

Beginning to prototype the parts for the head gratings. Absolutely no glue yet.  Just a dry fit of all parts.  So far so good.  Lots of curves and lots of notches.  All are lining up well.  I think you guys are up to the challenge and its actually good fun.  Compare with other kits…even the newer ones.  Its well worth the extra effort.
 
Once all the parts are cut and tested , I will do the step by step because the build sequence will be important.  But I wanted to give you a sneak peek.  So far I am thrilled with the results.
 

I completed the Stretchers. I did notice that a few of  the cross members are a different size. I probably used pieces of wood that were meant for something else. Not a big deal.

I completed the Stretchers. I did notice that a few of  the cross members are a different size. I probably used pieces of wood that were meant for something else. Not a big deal.

I just completed the hull
of Nantucket. Keel and cap rails placed as well as the anchor opening, bulwark stiffeners, freezing ports and Hawse lip. I painted the hull with 3 coats of acrylic red paint sanding between coats. I tried to use a pencil marking around the ship for the waterline but was unable to see the markings on the paint. I measured the waterline from the plans and masked the area and painted the bottom of the ship with flat black acrylic paint. After drying I placed the adhesive letters on both sides. The ship is on a temporary cradle until I buy brass pedestals and a baseboard.


 

I completed the Stretchers. I did notice that a few of  the cross members are a different size. I probably used pieces of wood that were meant for something else. Not a big deal.

I was able to get the risers in place and also the front platform. 

I completed the Stretchers. I did notice that a few of  the cross members are a different size. I probably used pieces of wood that were meant for something else. Not a big deal.

Just a small update....
 
We finished the 3 vertical head timbers earlier.  But now that the cathead support is completed, you can add the fourth "half" head timber.  I rarely if ever see this on any kit which is strange.  You can see the half head timber on the contemporary model below.  Its the aft most head timber.   It sits between the main headrail and middle rail against the hull.  This (like all of the head rail parts) is a part that needs careful tweaking.   It is laser cut for you but left just a bit long.  The top edge should be angled on a curve to sit flush with the underside if the main headrail.  The bottom needs the same treatment but also must sit against the hull neatly.
 

Here are the laser cut pieces.  I will supply two sets just for practice purposes.   Shape the pieces on sheet "R" first to fit and make sure this half timber is spaced equally from its "full partner" just forward of it.  All of the head timbers are equl distance apart so its easy enough to measure.
 
Once you have a good fit,  you can add the cover board (also laser cut) and the frieze.   Then it can be glued into position.  Keep tweaking it ever so slightly for a really neat fit.  Remember to match its angle and placement on the other side.  Darn it!!!  Yes you have two of these to do.
 


Also note that I had removed the fancy molding where this half head timber will sit against the hull.  Then I added it back after it was glued into position.  I dont know if this made it easier but I thought I would let you know.
 
We are in the home stretch now!!!!!  Finally.
 
The only things remaining on the model to do are
 
- The head gratings which will be next.
 
-The False Rail
 
-The seats
 
-Lastly the bumpkins
 
Thats it really....
 
Here is a wonderful photo of the Minerva showing the head gratings and seats and bumpkin.    Also the false rail.  Note how the head gratings are curved or have a roundup.   This is yet another feature that is never shown on commercial kits no matter how well done they are.  We will be emulating this.  No one-piece laser cut head gratings that never fit for this project.  We will be assembling them just like you see it below.  It will be so much fun!
 
Our head grating will have slight differences but I wanted to show you whats next using these insane photos.  Study them.  The plan we will be using is below as well.
 

 

 



And a shot of another contemporary model showing the head gratings as well.  The gratings here are closer to what we will be doing.  Although from a larger ship.   
 

Interestingly they are painted white on the underside....we wont be doing that.  But  a nice view none the less.  Note the poop shoot!!!
 

 
 
 
 

While waiting for the brass rod to arrive I continued working on the forecastle. The bowsprit step and manger boards were placed at the fourth beam. Then the rest of the forward beams, knees and lodging knees were added. Also the cat tails were added.
 

 
Then the forward bits and mast partner were added and additional beams and knees.
 

 
Lastly, I added the stove, riding bits, bulkhead panel and the remaining beams and knees.
 

 
Now that I received the 1mm brass rod I'll go back aft to finish the chain pumps and the rest of chapter 7.
 

Hi All,
 
Well, I've diverted a bit. I thought I had the 1mm rod needed to do the chain pump crank handles. Come to find out I have .89mm or 1.19mm rod. Either too small or too large. Of course, the local hobby store did not have any in stock either. So, I ordered some online and have to wait for them to arrive. I could have started on chapter 8 but the stove was calling me so I listened.
 

 
The parts all fit perfectly.
 

 
Here is the stove all assembled and painted. No weathering powders have applied yet.
 

 

 
And here is the finished stove. I first applied a grimy black powder, sprayed it with a matt spray. I then applied some rusty brown powder. It was a little strong for my taste, so I went over it with a light coat of grimy black to tone it down just a bit. It was then sprayed with dull coat.
 

 

 
Until the brass rod arrives I'll start on chapter 8.

here is the step by step for making the cathead supports.  These pieces are among the most difficult to make for any ship model.   This method may seem a bit unorthodox....but bear with me here and I will explain as best I can.  Ask a lot of questions!!!
 
The laser cut parts will get you only so far...about 80% of the way.   You will need to shape these and tweak them to get a really good fit.  But its leaps and bounds better than anything you will find on a kit as long as you take your time and dont rush through it.  Read the instructions several times.
 
Step one...A laser cut template from 1/32" thick wood is provided.  Temporarily glue this in position with just a few drops of glue or rubber cement.  Mark the side where you will have to remove the molding so your support will fit between them.  Cut the molding free with some sharp chisels.  NOTE....cut inside your lines and make the gaps smaller...dont make them too large.  You can always make them larger later as you test fit each piece.
 
The template is longer than you will need on both ends so you can cut it to fit your model so it fits.  Look at it from many angles to see if the curve is graceful and it runs well into the middle rail where it connects.  There should be a pleasing continuity from the template onto the middle rail.
 

Step 2...assemble the cathead support....NOTE, the entire span will be made of two lengths.  This portion of the support is just half and is directly under the cathead.  
 
There are several layers...the bottom is the longest.  It is 1/4" thick cedar.   On top of this glue two more shorter  layers of 1/4" thick cedar.  Then to finish the assembly...glue on the a final piece which is 5/32" thick boxwood.  It is super important to make sure you use the boxwood layer as the top layer.  This layer will show and its the tip or outboard end of the cathead support.  Four layers in total.  I said it was gonna get weird.   But just stick with me here.
 
There are templates in paper for this piece.   See them in the photo.  

Step 3....Glue the template onto the piece so it all fits nicely.  There is plenty of room.  I glued it on the outside only.  Use this as a guide to shape this piece.   Remove the heavy stuff with a sharp blade until you get close to the template and sand the rest.  This will get you 80% of the way to a good fit.

After shaping....below.  Dont over sand.  Just smooth out the sides.  Dont try and remove all the char as it doesnt matter.  You just want to have a smooth surface to add the outside layers in the next step.

Step 4....There are laser cut outside layers that are super thin.   These come in two pieces.  They are glued on both sides.  Do this neatly and get a nice clean joint between the two sections.  You may want to lightly sand the char from where the joint will be between these two pieces so it wont show when its all done.
 

It will look like this.   A few things to note...
 
Before gluing them on each side I rounded the edges of the support or chamfered them.   Then add the thin outer layers.   Sand them flush on all edges although NOT on the front fancy side where the friezes will go.  Similar to the cheeks we made you want to leave the edges standing proud on the front side to form a slight lip. see below.  I left it a little more pronounced until after the friezes are added and its all cleaned up.  
 
Also note the second length which will connect to it and the middle rail.   This is laser cut for you and also gets thin outside layers.  This is important because these two pieces will join together like the cheeks did with the hair brackets.  You will need to get a nce joint between them which wont be seen when these are glued together.

Step 5...this forward length is laser cut but needs shaping.  It has one curve cut into it but you need to shape the other side.  You need to sand the curve that fits against the hull.  Just like the cheeks above and below the hawse holes.   You have done this before.  See below.
 
Also note the angled forward end which needs to be sanded into it.  This end is what attaches to the middle rail.   I rounded off or chamfered the outside edges before adding the two thin layers.  All of these parts are cut extra long so you can shape and tweak to fit you model.   This is where is gets interesting.... 

You should have both halves at this point completed.....like this.   At least roughly done so we can test and tweak them on the model.  There are lots of angles here.

 
Step 6A....This is just a dry fit of both lengths trying to get a tight seem between both lengths.   First I added the cathead support...tI tweaked the top edge so it was at the proper angle to fit against the bottom of the cathead.   You will no doubt have to do this.  You will also have to tweak the shape that fits against the hull.  Dont sand away too much.  Do a little at a time and keep testing until it fits nicely and follows the path of your template.   Then temporarily glue it in position with a drop or two of glue.  
 
Step 6B....Do the same tweaking of the forward half so it sits flush against the hull.  But you also need to create a nice tight joint between the two halves so it looks seamless.   The angled forward end should fit snug against the middle rail.
 
Keep working both lengths until you get a pretty good fit....below.  See how it fits between the molding on the hull?
 
 
 

Step 7...now you can do some last minute tweaks and glue it all on the model.   I added the friezes after the both lengths were glued on the model.   I put the friezes on in two lengths.  It was just easier this way.   Then I sanded the edges of those outside layers a bit with 600 grit paper so the the beaded edge wasnt standing too proud of the friezes.  Overall I just did some touch up work.   I think I still need some more but this is about it as far as the method is concerned.  

There is NO easy way to create these.  This is not a plastic kit model.  But this technique can be adopted for scratch building.  This is indeed how I make these parts when I do a scratch built model.  I just translated it to laser cut parts.   Having said this,   because everyones models will be slightly different you will need to go slow and shape them for a best final fit.
 
And as always....ask a lot of questions.