mgdawson
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Everything posted by mgdawson
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Hey Coastie I've done a (very) quick skim through C Nepean Longridge's book, 'The Cutty Sark, The Ship and a model' and came up with a few numbers, which, together with the tools mentioned above should give you a good lead. The standing rigging, pennants etc of this period were usually wire, so they are not necessarily larger than the running rigging. Best way to confirm what you're doing is get some stand off photos of ships and look at your model from a similar scale distance and see if the rigging is in proportion. Pretty well any of the training ships have wire standing rigging and would give a good idea if you don't have a photo of the Cutty Sark herself from the right perspective. Shrouds, cap stays & lower stays 5" circumference wire Bob stay, iron rod Bowsprit shrouds, chain Top mast shrouds 2 3/4" wire Jib boom guys 2" wire Topgallant shrouds 2 1/2" wire Lower Yard lifts 2 1/2" wire Course Sheets 4" hemp (sounds a little small for the main course to me MD) Lower topsail yard braces 4" hemp Topsail halliard purchase 4" hemp Mark D
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King Planks.
mgdawson replied to Ganymede's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Patrick If you manage to find that source, I'd be interested if it comments on the purpose of the King Plank, was it structural, just a construction aid etc etc and if you have centre line openings could you have 2, one running either side of the openings ? ( I probably shouldn't admit it here but while I like modeling my primary interest is in how the ships were constructed and used. :-) Ta Mark D -
Hammock Netting
mgdawson replied to Ensign's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Hey thanks for that, all I found when I looked there was that hex mesh, now I know what to ask for I'll have another go. Mark -
Yeah, gotta agree there, definitely not enough insulation and I can't see any air con unit, he would have fried today, 39C.
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Hi All, If you're having trouble tracking these down, hermaphrodite calipers are also known as jenny calipers or odd leg calipers, other than eBay you'll find them at engineering and model engineering supplies. Mark
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Hmm, how about creating and 'repairing' a bit of storm or battle damage ? Or perhaps add some 'human' interest, a mop and bucket, a spar propped up on a horse with some chippy tools lying around to repair it, a loose coil of rope with the end opened up for splicing. You don't need the people (unless you want them) just the evidence they're around. Mark
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The tuck under the first loop is new to me but extremely good idea, that's where the strain on the line will come in and lock it but still easy to flip out. Half hitching has been mentioned as many have no doubt seen it used, while you can usually get away with it today with modern synthetic ropes, natural fibre ropes shrink when wet so if you put a half hitch in a dry line which subsequently gets wet it tightens up and you can't get it off. And according to sod's law, you put it on dry in fine weather and you're trying to get it off when the wind is up and you've got green water coming over the deck. I got caught once, fortunately nothing critical, I was 3rd Mate on a container ship and one of the crew had secured a mooring winch canvas cover with half hitches,I needed to get the cover off coming into port in wet weather and ended up cutting the securing line (I always carried a knife). Also 3 vs 4 'turns', while there's a lot of individual preference on the number of turns, generally with synthetics you add an extra turn as they tend to be, comparatively, a little slippery, likewise splicing, add an extra tuck on synthetics. Mark
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ebonizing boxwood
mgdawson replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hey Kurt If you're looking at actual ebonizing rather than stain / dye this link might be of interest. Haven't tried it myself so can't really make any further comment. http://www.routerforums.com/finishing-touch/38180-taking-run-ebonizing.html Mark
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