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    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Interested in methodology of achieving desired results eg how to colour cannon, making rope, plank bending

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  1. Hi Dave I've seen methods comparable to that suggested by Kris except you don't trim all the excess off, drill holes in your cap rail and glue the extensions into the cap rail holes, much stronger than just gluing on top. Likewise a jig for soldering would be a simple piece of wood with a couple of holes drilled in it, perhaps another piece of wood pressed alongside in the unlikely event the horns try to turn. As fairlead horns are usually oval in cross section I'm wondering if round rather than square stock would be closer to the mark, a wipe on the outside with a file/fine sanding stick would give the impression of a more oval shape and with round stock you wouldn't need to square out the holes in the base plate. Mark
  2. I like the idea, adds a little 'life' to the model. Just thinking long term, I'm wondering how are you planning to manage the power, if batteries, are you building a battery compartment into the base of the case or if a plugpack any thoughts on disguising the cable running to the case. Mark
  3. For those of us who don’t want to get zuckered there is also a website https://saxonship.org mark
  4. Hi Messis, Some time back I found online a pdf of 'A Treatise on Naval Gunnery' by General Sir Howard Douglas, 4th Edition, 1855, 'Dedicated by Special Permission to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty', 689 pages, apparently scanned by google in Harvard College Library. A quick look in the tables in Appendix D, 'Tables of Gunnery Practice', I found found some tables with ranges, projectile velocity and penetration over various ranges mainly for larger guns but some tables go down to 12lb, I didn't look extensively to see whether there were tables for 6pounders. There are a lot of different tables which may be of interest, likewise the whole book. Unfortunately some of the tables are quite poorly reproduced and at a glance are unreadable while others are crystal clear, but they may reveal some relevant info with a bit of effort. It appears this was a problem with the source rather than the scanning. The book is obviously British but I imagine performance would be comparable with French cannon. Sorry, I can't give you a link, I downloaded it quite a while ago and don't remember where from. Mark
  5. From google translate :- "Brass homemade. Use integral milling 1:48"
  6. Hi mugje, i don’t have any experience with this but i would imagine over time the copper patina will change and any matching now may not match in future. happy to be corrected. mark
  7. By convention, when measuring rope in imperial units use circumference, when measuring in metric, diameter.
  8. Interesting looking barque, any more information on her ? Mark
  9. I have this kit in my stack and have considered an ‘abstract’ figure to man it, don’t want a fully detailed figure detracting from the model. One option i found is a mannequin that artists use to practice proportion, available in various sizes including 12” which at this scale would be a 6’ pilot, a tall person for the period but not unheard of (from memory my research indicated 5’6” - 5’7” would be more appropriate) but i doubt the difference would be too noticeable. Depending on the mannequin a little trimming might even be feasible. Mark PS Apologies for the imperial measurements, a persons height is the one thing I’ve never got my head around in metric !
  10. Was trying to find a photo to illustrate the above and this came up in the google search. Mark
  11. Hi Matrim I’ve seen photos of clippers & cargo ships alongside in Sydney with their lower/longer yards acockbill (canted vertically) due to the proximity of the warehouse. Hmm, that could make an interesting diorama. I believe all yards acockbill was also used as a sign of mourning, presumably when a ship was at anchor. Mark
  12. Hi Grandpa Kevin Kenny did a video on this, it's in the ' Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs' section.
  13. Thanks Kevin, I'd found lots of photos but I was after some of her out of the water to have a look at the run aft and as most model photos look down at the model, or at best a straight profile, they don't really give a clear view of the lines under the counter, so I was trying to find some of the actual ship out of the water. I thought with a project like that they'd do a doco or blog on her build hence my search was in that direction. I'll keep an eye out. Mark
  14. I got curious about her lines :- https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Linesplan-of-the-privateer-Lynx-from-Chapelle-1967_fig3_303566120 Does anyone know of any photos or videos of her build or even just out of the water ? Mark
  15. Hi Richmond I was about to jump in and say Spotlight have those detail knives but when I just looked online I can't find them. I know I've seen them somewhere as I was looking at them as an alternative to a leatherworkers swivel knife used in leather carving. I did however find 2 versions on Amazon.com.au, the version you pictured for $17 & a 'new' version with a rubberised fingertip in place of the knurled one for $25. Perhaps I did see them in Spotlight and they've dropped the 'old' and are waiting for the 'new'. Personally I think I'd prefer the old version, the rubberised grips they like putting on things are great when new but always seem to go manky after a couple of years. Fiskars Fingertip Swivel Knife Fiskars New Fingertip Swivel Knife Superior Control Softgrip Detail Mark

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