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mgdawson

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Interested in methodology of achieving desired results eg how to colour cannon, making rope, plank bending

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  1. Hi shortgrass, there are a few wooden boats being built / rebuilt with regular youtube updates. Two i’m following are the ‘Sampson Boat Co‘, where an english shipwright is rebuilding a 130 year old yacht, ‘Tally Ho’ in Oregan and ‘Acorn to Arabella’ where a couple of blokes are building a 1930s(?) yacht design from scratch, including harvesting most of the timber from their property. Both are explaining the how and why. Look around episode 60 in the former and episode 45 in the latter for cutting the rabbet. I could be an episode out in either direction for the explanation you’re looking
  2. I've got a small box of Lego as well as a 600 piece Meccano set, both really handy for temporary jigs / tools etc for all sorts of projects. Unfortunately neither from my child hood, had to go out and buy new stuff but they've both paid for themselves. (On the ToDo list is to make up some block/arms etc with neodymium magnets to use on a steel plate as a magnetic building board which I can combine with Lego jigs and particularly the Meccano.) Mark
  3. Interesting photo, while I've seen models with only the lower masts in place I don't remember seeing a model also showing the topmasts housed. With or without the topmasts, I think this is an excellent way to show off a ship without the distraction of the masts and rigging and not an unnatural look for a ship, I believe it was standard practice to strike the topgallants and topmasts when a ship was 'in ordinary' and would certainly happen for maintenance. If you go for the maintenance look you have the opportunity to leave a few tools and materials laying around the deck and maybe
  4. Perhaps not historically accurate but I love the look of natural wood, if it's in good enough condition I'd oil it, just my personal preference. Oh, yeah, I'd also replace those posidrives with slotted screws, either stainless or brass. Mark
  5. Hi Bruce, I found a few threads by searching for "keel taper", include the quotes, that forces the search engine to look for the phrase rather than the 2 individual words that happen to be in the same post but unconnected. Mark
  6. This work is also available on gutenberg.org to download in epub or kindle formats. If you don't have an epub reader, howtogeek has a short article with some suggestions or you can get a plug in for your browser. There are also online epub to pdf converters. Mark
  7. Hi Chuck, On leatherworker.net they talk about acetone, MEK (MEKP is not the same), toluene and even general purpose thinners, it depends on the brand of contact. One poster specifically mentions he'd had success with Toluene for thinning DAP weldwood, Acetone for cleanup and less success for thinning. Let us know how you fare. Mark
  8. Thanks wefalck, Mary, Charles I've actually got several blacking compounds for both ferrous and copper based alloys , just never thought to try ball bearings, I always assumed the alloy or chrome plate wouldn't take the black and nor did heat occur to me. Got a gas torch so I just need to get some ball bearing of appropriate size and start experimenting. Thanks again. Mark
  9. Acrylic paint in small quantities with applicator included, what's not to like ? I use it for marking cable polarities, mouse & keyboard dongles so I know which belongs to which, thread witness marks etc etc I get some weird looks in the chemist, but I just smile and let them wonder 🙂 Actually the really fun bit was the new girlfriend when she saw the bottles.
  10. Hi Charles, Just wondering about heating ball bearings, I've done a search on the site but only found mention of it, no details eg how hot, can you do it in an kitchen oven or do you need a torch ? Is it permanent or you need to add a protective coating ? If someone has a link to where this is described it would be appreciated. Also one of the posts I did find mentioned using a chemical blacking solution after heating , so I'm confused, does the heating create the black or the chemical solution and the heat just allows the chemical black to work. If using ch
  11. Hi, I was looking at steel shot for a canon section kit in my stash but looking online the only steel shot I found had a prominent belt around the equator. Can someone tell me if this is normal or did I just find an oddball (no pun intended). Also anyone know where I can buy steel shot in Australia, I've only found preloaded shells with steel shot. I was going to ask around at the June shot show but of course that didn't happen. I wouldn't even consider getting some from overseas the cost of shipping a kilo or more would be horrendous. Mark
  12. Hi Dean, The 945/94S is the plan number, it looks to me to be a builders plan, if so somewhere on the sheet there would have been either the ships name or hull number, hopefully it's still there, along with the 'Society of Electromechanical Foundries Liguria' it might give you a lead. I came up empty with a search for that Society but perhaps there's a member from Genoa who can shed some light on it or contact the Genoa Maritime Museum. If you're near a maritime museum it might be worth taking that plan to them and ask their advice on preservation. Good luck
  13. Sorry can't help with specifics but I've seen models with both a wooden and an iron stocked anchor indicating perhaps an in service replacement of a lost anchor whilst also illustrating the evolving technology. Mark
  14. Hi Dave I've seen methods comparable to that suggested by Kris except you don't trim all the excess off, drill holes in your cap rail and glue the extensions into the cap rail holes, much stronger than just gluing on top. Likewise a jig for soldering would be a simple piece of wood with a couple of holes drilled in it, perhaps another piece of wood pressed alongside in the unlikely event the horns try to turn. As fairlead horns are usually oval in cross section I'm wondering if round rather than square stock would be closer to the mark, a wipe on the outside with a
  15. I like the idea, adds a little 'life' to the model. Just thinking long term, I'm wondering how are you planning to manage the power, if batteries, are you building a battery compartment into the base of the case or if a plugpack any thoughts on disguising the cable running to the case. Mark
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