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Ganymede

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About Ganymede

  • Birthday 08/23/1932

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Poole, Dorset. UK
  • Interests
    Reading, singing and now Shipmodelling

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  1. More pics of the build. My ineptitude is plain for all to see. Not very skilful at inserting pics am I? Still a couple more Thumbnail. Sorry folks I can't upload more pics because I'm told they are too big. Can't see how they are different from the others but then, I'm a bit of a dunce with PCs. I've hit the buffers.
  2. At last I have made some progress. I sanded down the false keel to form the rabbet and also the stern post. I drew in the bearding line fore and aft and sanded that down too. The next thing was to dry fit the bulkheads, #2 looked to be a bit short and two others were a little loose in the keel. In forming the rabbet I sanded down to the middle layer of the ply at 45 degrees.(In real ships I suspect this angle varied throughout the keel length), nor did I go beyond the first ply layer when tapering the stern post. Having done this I am now worried that I will have difficulty attaching the keel proper with the reduced thickness of the false keel. But my feeling is that doing it as I have will make the fitting of the first planking easier. We shall see. Thumbnail For the #2 bulkhead I added two strips of 1mm planking to each side, this looks about right and it will be faired in later. Thumbnail I then added the bulkheads #s1 to 10 one at a time, one in the mornings and one in the evenings giving each one plenty of time to set. Slow I know but I did not want to rush and displace any. There was a big temptation to fit several in one go but I resisted this, slow but sure and patience are the watchwords. For the looser bulkheads I simply added a well sanded down sliver of 1mm strip behind each one and that was sufficient. A note of caution, don't make the bulkheads fit too tightly as this might cause the keel to buckle, Thumbnail Finally I added additional support for the mast steps and parts 13 and 14 to the bows. Lastly I fitted bulkhead #11. This is a bit tricky because it seems to hang in the air and needs careful support whilst the glue sets. It is important to make sure the B/H matches the angle of the sternpost in the vertical plane as well as being at right angles to the centre line. This was the only time I used the fast setting adhesive. Once set in place I added two fillers between it and B/H 10 for added support. Thumbnail.
  3. Greetings Eamonn, Glad to see another Ballahoo on the stocks. I started mine just after Christmas but have been struck down with a bit of a stomach bug and am taking some time to get over it, penalty of old age I expect. One thing I did notice is that the #2 bulkhead on mine stopped a little short of the bearding line so I've had to beef it up a bit. Have you noticed any similar problem? I must ask; in your photos are the B/heads glued in place or are they dry fitted? I ask because I am planning on 1st planking before attaching the keel proper and have and bevelled the false keel for the rabbet. Now I wonder if I will be able to get an accurate fit later after 1st planking. What's your plan? Patrick M.
  4. Greetings and thanks Banyan and Mark for these most useful and interesting comments. I would imagine that each deck would have been treated in the same way, all with a kingplank or none? I had not thought it would raise much interest. Certainly a confusing subject. I'm going to have a little dig about myself. Patrick.
  5. Hi Jim, Just checked my No 2 BH and it too is a bit short. I'll fix it tomorrow. No 3 BH is OK. Will attempt to post pictures at the weekend. I take it that you have both bulwarks wrapped round the cup at the same time in the pic? Got my missing part yesterday, very quick service. Patrick.
  6. Hi Jim, I'm just about to fit the third B/H. I've checked it with a contour gauge and it is symmetrical with a max width of 81.17mm.How does that compare with yours? I'm fitting the B/Hs., three a day, fit one wait 6 hours for the glue to set. Slow but I'm taking my time. Patrick. PS. Can I borrow your cup please?
  7. Greetings, When and by whom was the King Plank introduced? I rarely see it mentioned when reading the build logs and wondered if it was a fairly recent method of planking the decks. I am building the Schooner Ballahoo and wonder if I should be considering fitting it. Patrick M.
  8. Greetings, Thank you Monarch, jim and tkay11 for the comments. At least I know I am not alone. Progress of a sort but slow. Got my son staying for a while and don't have much spare time. Also, as I remarked to jim elsewhere, I have to work in my garage and it's very cold at this time of the year. But so far I have cut my rabett line and the bearding line and this afternoon I glued my first bulkhead. I am now worried that I may have made my first mistake. Having cut the rabett line on the false keel it is now somewhat reduced in thickness and I wonder if I should have fixed the main keel in place first. Now I will have very little 'meat' to secure it even after I do the first planking. I am also going to have to add a little material to one of the bulkheads which is a little shy of the rabett line, I don't fore see that being a problem. Once I get all the B/Hs in place I'll add a picture. Patrick.
  9. Greetings jcavin, I'm not the most knowledgeable person but I am fairly certain this is the answer. The two lines you mention are the ends of a single rope which were attached to the yard below the cap i.e. the cap on the main mast and the main yard, topmast and the topsail yard, etc., The rope was taken through the two forward holes and over the sheaves in the cap and down behind the mast to a sheave in a heavy block called, I think, a 'ramshead' situated at/near the base of the mast. The ramshead was large with a sheave (in the athwartship plane) for the yard halliard and below this were three or four smaller sheaves (in the fore and aft plane) These were linked to a similar 3 or 4 sheave block to give sufficient purchase to raise the yard. I hope this is clear. You might try searching for Ramshead Block here in the forum. This was generally the practise on the continent (I think the correct term was a Dutch Cap) in England the yard halliard was taken through two blocks secured below the top.
  10. Thanks every one for the replies, All very informative and useful knowledge. Patrick.
  11. Greetings, At long last my kit has arrived. Feeling equal measures of excitement and trepidation. First things first, check the content against the parts list. One discrepancy as already noted by " jim_smits" log of the same build one piece 2x3x400mm walnut is missing. Now to my build log. The Objective. The objective is not to build a ship model, although that will be the end product, but to learn the various techniques necessary in ship modelling. I shall, as far as practical, write my log as a beginner for beginners. I do not expect the work to progress at a fast rate. At each stage I will be taking note of the work, words, and hopefully the received advice of other more skilful modellers. There will undoubtedly be many mistakes made along the way, but mistakes are part of the learning adventure, always provided of course that one learns from them. So here we go.(My first task is to learn how to post pictures in my texts). My first impression of the kit was "not an awful lot in the box" but then "maybe it won't be so difficult after all". As noted above one piece missing but I'll be making a 'phone call tomorrow to resolve this. Everything looks clean and without any obvious blemishes or major faults. Some of the parts look very small but they are well packaged. Sensible to keep these safe and sealed until needed. A parts list with an accompanying illustrations. Three sheets of diagrams which seem to be fairly clear but time will tell. Now what have I got in the way of tools and such. I've just got a Dremel 3000 and various bits to go with it, files, rifflers, and clamps of various sizes, a bench drill and a sanding machine, soldering iron and general engineering hand tools; tweezers eyeglasses and 'third hands'. Scalpels and fine saws, vernier callipers spirit levels and that's more or less it. If more is needed as I progress I'll record it More to come later. Patrick.
  12. Greetings Nigel, Thanks for the reply. Given that the hull planks were caulked why then is there so little visual evidence in the many models we see here? It is no more difficult than the deck is it? Asking questions is my means of filling in time, and acquiring a little knowledge, until I get my, first, model kit. Hopefully in the next week or so. I'll probably be asking a lot in the near future. Again thanks Patrick.
  13. Greetings, Something that is bothering me. I see a great deal of correspondence regarding caulking the decks, various methods and preferences but nothing is said about caulking the hull planking. Now I know,(think) that the hull planking was caulked so why is it not mentioned in the build logs? Is it because the decks were sealed with pitch (and therefore visible), and not the hull? But if that is the case what treatment did the hull have in place of pitch for sealing? Patrick M
  14. Greetings Jim, Lucky you. I'm still waiting for my kit to arrive. I thought I would be the first away with the build log on this new MSW 2.0 site. I will be watching your log with keen interest. I note the discrepancy in the wood type and the missing walnut sprue. Will check kit most carefully. Good luck. Patrick M

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