Bob Cleek
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Bob Cleek reacted to Landlubber Mike in Dremel rotary tool?
I agree with Bob above. I rarely use my Dremel, but did use if for things like shaping filler blocks. A couple of years ago I bought a Nakajima micromotor at the suggestion of another member here. They are not cheap, but it's an amazing tool. You have so much more control over the tool, not only speed wise, but from the stylus (not sure what the rotary component is called) which is incredibly light and with zero vibration and the use of a foot pedal. I find myself using it a lot in plastic modeling, and can see myself using it when I get back to working with wood models.
I use it to drill holes, file sections down, sand, use cut-off wheels, and more. It's not that a Dremel can't do it, you just have a lot more control with a micromotor like the Nakajima.
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Bob Cleek reacted to mtaylor in Dremel rotary tool?
I'll qualify my post above Bob's... I always try to use the lowest possible speed on any rotary hand tool. If' there's not enough torque, I'm using too much pressure.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Dremel rotary tool?
I've owned several Dremel mototools and their equivalents over the decades and have always found them a very handy tool to have around. That said, for modeling purposes, as Roger noted above, it is not a tool for delicate work. It's major drawback in this respect is that it relies upon speed, rather than torque, to get the job done and the lower their speed, the lower their torque. High speed tools are difficult to control. In my experience, anybody who stays with miniature work for any length of time ends up acquiring a Foredom flex-shaft rotary tool or a bench-top belt-driven laboratory dental engine after being at it a while. These foot pedal controlled alternatives have much more torque, even at low speeds. As always, "the good stuff' costs more, but you get what you pay for and you only have to buy a good tool once in a lifetime (unless you make the mistake of loaning your tools!) Fortunately for modelers, the dental laboratory industry has been transitioning to "micro-motor" and air turbine-driven handpieces in recent years, so there are good condition used Foredom flex-shafts and dental lab engines to be had on the used market these days at a fraction of their original cost.
This YouTube video is very informative:
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Dremel rotary tool?
I've owned several Dremel mototools and their equivalents over the decades and have always found them a very handy tool to have around. That said, for modeling purposes, as Roger noted above, it is not a tool for delicate work. It's major drawback in this respect is that it relies upon speed, rather than torque, to get the job done and the lower their speed, the lower their torque. High speed tools are difficult to control. In my experience, anybody who stays with miniature work for any length of time ends up acquiring a Foredom flex-shaft rotary tool or a bench-top belt-driven laboratory dental engine after being at it a while. These foot pedal controlled alternatives have much more torque, even at low speeds. As always, "the good stuff' costs more, but you get what you pay for and you only have to buy a good tool once in a lifetime (unless you make the mistake of loaning your tools!) Fortunately for modelers, the dental laboratory industry has been transitioning to "micro-motor" and air turbine-driven handpieces in recent years, so there are good condition used Foredom flex-shafts and dental lab engines to be had on the used market these days at a fraction of their original cost.
This YouTube video is very informative:
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Dremel rotary tool?
I've owned several Dremel mototools and their equivalents over the decades and have always found them a very handy tool to have around. That said, for modeling purposes, as Roger noted above, it is not a tool for delicate work. It's major drawback in this respect is that it relies upon speed, rather than torque, to get the job done and the lower their speed, the lower their torque. High speed tools are difficult to control. In my experience, anybody who stays with miniature work for any length of time ends up acquiring a Foredom flex-shaft rotary tool or a bench-top belt-driven laboratory dental engine after being at it a while. These foot pedal controlled alternatives have much more torque, even at low speeds. As always, "the good stuff' costs more, but you get what you pay for and you only have to buy a good tool once in a lifetime (unless you make the mistake of loaning your tools!) Fortunately for modelers, the dental laboratory industry has been transitioning to "micro-motor" and air turbine-driven handpieces in recent years, so there are good condition used Foredom flex-shafts and dental lab engines to be had on the used market these days at a fraction of their original cost.
This YouTube video is very informative:
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Dremel rotary tool?
I've owned several Dremel mototools and their equivalents over the decades and have always found them a very handy tool to have around. That said, for modeling purposes, as Roger noted above, it is not a tool for delicate work. It's major drawback in this respect is that it relies upon speed, rather than torque, to get the job done and the lower their speed, the lower their torque. High speed tools are difficult to control. In my experience, anybody who stays with miniature work for any length of time ends up acquiring a Foredom flex-shaft rotary tool or a bench-top belt-driven laboratory dental engine after being at it a while. These foot pedal controlled alternatives have much more torque, even at low speeds. As always, "the good stuff' costs more, but you get what you pay for and you only have to buy a good tool once in a lifetime (unless you make the mistake of loaning your tools!) Fortunately for modelers, the dental laboratory industry has been transitioning to "micro-motor" and air turbine-driven handpieces in recent years, so there are good condition used Foredom flex-shafts and dental lab engines to be had on the used market these days at a fraction of their original cost.
This YouTube video is very informative:
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Bob Cleek reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Dremel rotary tool?
A rotary tool by itself is useless. It is the diversity of the bits that you use that makes it very useful.
On the second photo are the most commons ones, that I use almost every day for wood and metal.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Jaager in Dremel rotary tool?
For a kit, a rotary tool is probably mostly a tool looking for a job.
A pin vise can probably cut any needed holes.
For scratch POF, and especially if the now out of favor trunnels for hull planking is your want, a rotary tool is a necessity.
But more is the pity for those just starting - the best for this - the smaller size cordless models - are no longer for sale- i.e 8050 or MiniMite.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Roger Pellett in Dremel rotary tool?
I have been building ship models for over 50 years. In the early 1970’s I received a Sears Lil’ Crafty rotary tool as a Christmas Present. I still have it. IMHO, these rotary tools are too aggressive for quality ship model work. They can very quickly ruin work. I mostly use it with an abrasive cut off disc on metal parts.
A while ago I bought a Proxxon rotary engraving tool. It runs from a separate 12v power supply. It is small enough to be held between the thumb and forefinger like a pencil. This tool is much more useful than the full sized rotary tool. It is particularly good for cleaning excess glue and solder from hard to reach joints.
Roger
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from king derelict in Orient Express Sleeping Car 1929 by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - Scale 1:32
Great job! A real gem. Thanks for sharing!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Death is inevitable, but dying happy is not.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Why, the prize is the satisfaction of victory, of course. That in itself is enough. This ain't Little League where everybody gets a trophy.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
I hear you, Roger! For your purposes, I'd do the same.
Just remember, "He who dies with the most tools wins!"
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
That looks like an excellent solution while you're waiting for her to ask what you want for your birthday.
Byrnes Model Machines - Thickness Sander (The link says "Thickness Sander," but it takes you to "Table Saw" which includes the new sliding table accessory which is everything you would expect from Jim Byrnes.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Death is inevitable, but dying happy is not.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from KeithAug in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Death is inevitable, but dying happy is not.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Roger Pellett in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Keith, I missed your questions yesterday. The sled is a special purpose tool intended to accurately cut thin brass sheet stock, thin plywood, etc with the thin dimension vertical and the width lying flat on the table. Other than a very slight nick on the corner of the angle there is no slot. Advancing the sled until the corner of the angle just kisses the blade completes the cut without launching the cut piece into outer space. The saw is then turned off to remove the cut piece. I will post a new picture of my improved stop later today. I too have a micrometer that I bought with the saw. Adding it to the sled is food for thought.
Dave, blade specifics later today.
Roger
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Why, the prize is the satisfaction of victory, of course. That in itself is enough. This ain't Little League where everybody gets a trophy.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
That looks like an excellent solution while you're waiting for her to ask what you want for your birthday.
Byrnes Model Machines - Thickness Sander (The link says "Thickness Sander," but it takes you to "Table Saw" which includes the new sliding table accessory which is everything you would expect from Jim Byrnes.
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Bob Cleek reacted to mtaylor in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
I've used this phrase myself. I do have a question.... what does the winner win? Is there a trophy? A participation medal?
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
I hear you, Roger! For your purposes, I'd do the same.
Just remember, "He who dies with the most tools wins!"
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Bob Cleek reacted to Roger Pellett in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
Bob,
I am trying to live with the “Buy it as you need it” philosophy for buying tools. 90% of the remaining work on my 1908 Lake Freighter model is metal; mostly brass, and at present brass sheet stock. My sled was built specifically for 90 degree cuts of small pieces of sheet brass. For this use, I actually prefer it to Jim’s larger table.
Roger
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
That looks like an excellent solution while you're waiting for her to ask what you want for your birthday.
Byrnes Model Machines - Thickness Sander (The link says "Thickness Sander," but it takes you to "Table Saw" which includes the new sliding table accessory which is everything you would expect from Jim Byrnes.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Roger Pellett in Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
The model that I am building requires a lot of metal work; brass bulwarks, deck plates, fittings, etc. I use my Byrnes saw as the primary tool for cutting brass sheet stock. With a fine toothed blade it produces accurate, distortion free cuts.
I have reached the point where I am making bollards. The base of these is 1/32 in sheet stock (scale 3in). I require multiple rectangular pieces, 3/16in wide X 7/16in long. Ripping 2in long 3/16in strips was easy to do but cutting these into 7/16in pieces is more difficult.
To do this and for cutting other small pieces I decided to make a sled for my saw, keeping the following in mind:
I wanted to cut multiple pieces to the exact same length.
I wanted to take advantage of the saw’s ability to produce truly square cuts.
I Wanted to keep all 10 fingers!
The body of the sled is a piece of 1-1/2 in aluminum angle. The Byrnes saw miter gauge was set at 90 degrees, and the angle was tightly butted against it and secured by a small machine screw threaded into the tapped hole of the miter gage slider. A slot was milled in the face of the angle and a #8-32 thumb screw goes thru the slot to secure the adjustable stop. An afternoon’s work using materials on hand.
Roger
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Dave_E in Good deal on long tweezers.
I picked up a set of three tweezers, 8", 10", and 12", from eBay the other day, They were an impulse buy prompted by my favorite 8" pair of dressing tweezers having "gone walkabout" and, of course, everybody swears they never touched them. The price was $8.35 with free shipping or "make an offer." I offered $6.75 to see what would happen and they accepted the offer. That comes to $3.25 a piece, which is a great deal. They came promptly and I found them to be of surprising quality, considering the price.
These long-reach tweezers come in really handy for rigging work where they can get in close without hitting other delicate work. They are also very handy for retrieving little parts that are dropped and which, through some mysterious quirk of physics, are always drawn into an open hatch and into the hull below.
3 Pcs Tweezers Thumb Dressing Forceps Set ( 8",10", 12" ) | eBay
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