pete48

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Pete:
Thanks. I am also curious to see if I can get the idea from my head onto the model.
 
Russ

Sam:
Thanks. Yes, the recesses will be windows. The deck house window unit usually had two panels that slide back and forth in the window frame. What I will do is to place a panel in the recess about half the length of the window opening to represent one panel. The solid wall panel will then represent the second sliding panel. A window will be placed around the opening and the entire thing painted. That should give the illusion of a fully functional window unit.
 
Michael:
Thanks for looking in.
 
Russ

Thank you Russ, The seats were made off the model then installed .This is the first model that I have tried this on,so scale was not that important ( it just had to look good ) I made the caulking a bit dramatic to see how it would look overall. Its all a just learning process ,and Its alot of fun.
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Michael,
You get part of the credit for this build. Pilot house windows, smoke stack, and running lights. Did I forget anything?
 
Pete,
Size is the main consideration. I can work down to 1:64 and the final product has to fit in a normal sized house. I've been following Alex's build of Sphynx in the scratch builds. The advantage is that the hull is only just over 100' long, and Alex makes plans available through Chuck Passaro at Syren.
 
Tom.

Here is a small update.
 
I have completed the shell of the deck house. It has planked sides and roof with false openings for windows on the sides and an opening for the door and sliding hatch on the aft side. There is still some fitting to do around the bottom edges of the house.
 
Feel free to comment and ask questions.
 
Russ
 
 

Thanks pete48, mtaylor, hexnut and Elmer Cornish. Much appreciated and all the best!

It is coming along well. Details are important on a large scale model of a small boat. Yours are looking good.
 
One question. Are you doing the planking details on the seats off the model and then installing the seats as completed units? I ask because the caulking details are bold. If they are good for you, then no problem. If scale is an issue there, you might want to see if you can tone them down. It is your choice though.
 
Russ

I thought today would be a good day to work on Keel # 4 , I started by refitting the Centerboard.  Then I cut out the Bowsprit Blank, marked it now its ready for shaping. I then made the inside drop board rails , and installed them. I then cut out the seat, wich I made out of 2 pieces so that the seat fits under the Deck. Next I ripped down more of the 1/32" birch ply for the decking . I then laid it out the seats in the same fashion as the cockpit floor and fish well deck. I then installed the seats and added a pre bent pre stained strip cut it to fit aft of the seat and match the cockpit coaming . Here are the results

Hi Matti, Nice work on the masting, it looks fantastic . I realy like the photo looking at the bow. ( nice shot )
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank you Michael and Steve, She should slip through the water , We will find out at sea trials ( or lake in my case )
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank you David, Its been challanging and fun to build, shes right on the numbers so thats pleasing
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank you David, Its been challanging and fun to build, shes right on the numbers so thats pleasing
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Such clean building! That hull looks like it would slip through the water without even leaving a wake.
 
Steve

Beautiful lines and such a sweet job on the planking.
 
Michael

Today I started by lowering the camber on the rear cockpit bulkhead , I then realized that the Transom knee needed to be cut down to allow for the rear deck . On the forward cockpit bulkhead , I cut out the frame brace to match the deck camber of the birch ply . I then installed the bulkheads and layed out the cockpit seats ( another one of those trickier than I thought situations ) I then cut out 4 seat braces for aft of the cockpit and 2 larger ones for the bow. This is because the deck angle change's sharpley for the cockpit coaming . I then turned my attention to the Keel . I filled in the bottom of the keel with wood ( this normaly would be the Lead part of the keel ) I then faired it in with the rest of the Boat.  Here are the results

I would like to Thank you all, For your intrest and the likes , its inspiring
 
Hi Michael, I looked at Tonis build ( for the louvers ) I am going to try that out . it looks fairly simple . I think your right, that kind of system might work. I to this day would still love to have a full sized one, They are so nice to sail, ( I sailed a 12 1/2 a few times, I did not want it to end ) and they are very easy on the eye's  
 
Hi Richard, Thank you, she is comming together nicely, I am also building the original 12 1/2 ( Cap't Nates ) as a proto-type the link is in my signature.
 
Hi Nils, Thank you for the kind words, I like the Herreshoff Designs ( deffinatly a dreamboat ) They are Amazing boats to sail as well
 
Best Regards,
Pete
 
I just had to add this photo

Today I started by lowering the camber on the rear cockpit bulkhead , I then realized that the Transom knee needed to be cut down to allow for the rear deck . On the forward cockpit bulkhead , I cut out the frame brace to match the deck camber of the birch ply . I then installed the bulkheads and layed out the cockpit seats ( another one of those trickier than I thought situations ) I then cut out 4 seat braces for aft of the cockpit and 2 larger ones for the bow. This is because the deck angle change's sharpley for the cockpit coaming . I then turned my attention to the Keel . I filled in the bottom of the keel with wood ( this normaly would be the Lead part of the keel ) I then faired it in with the rest of the Boat.  Here are the results

It is really coming togehter and taking shape.
David B

OK. Next comparison; this time with flags flying and anchor installed on the bow in the same position as in the real photo. The bow nameplate moves around in different photos, as does the stove pipe. The bell on the front of the pilot house was on the boat early and then removed. I suspect it hindered traffic, although it shows up again after 1905. 
 

 

 
I had to make the anchor twice; the first time it was too big. And I made the 45 star American flag 3 times before I got it right. Both flags are pictures off the internet, sized for the model and stuck on brass sheet.
 
 
 
 

Crackers,
Your photo is from the fall of 1938. Here are a couple of others just prior to yours:
 

 

 
She was refloated but never used again. Instead she was towed to another berth and left. Ultimately, she was towed out to deeper water and scuttled.
 

 
All pictures are thanks to the Searsport Maritime Museum.
 
Tom
 
 
 
 
 
 

Today I started by lowering the camber on the rear cockpit bulkhead , I then realized that the Transom knee needed to be cut down to allow for the rear deck . On the forward cockpit bulkhead , I cut out the frame brace to match the deck camber of the birch ply . I then installed the bulkheads and layed out the cockpit seats ( another one of those trickier than I thought situations ) I then cut out 4 seat braces for aft of the cockpit and 2 larger ones for the bow. This is because the deck angle change's sharpley for the cockpit coaming . I then turned my attention to the Keel . I filled in the bottom of the keel with wood ( this normaly would be the Lead part of the keel ) I then faired it in with the rest of the Boat.  Here are the results

"A-trennelling we will go ... a-trennelling we will go. 
Trennelling ... trennelling ... trennelling ... trennelling ...
Life is but a dream !!"
 
CaptainSteve's already tenuous grasp upon sanity hath been sorely tested these past two weeks. For he hath been occupying every erstwhile free moment in cutting many a toothpick into even smaller pieces ...
 

 
Thence he didst taketh up his drill and madeth verily great numbers of tiny, tiny holes in which to place these pieces ...
 

 
And, thencewise, whereupon that was doneth, he didst commenceth the whole process over again ... and again ... and again. All the while singing the refrain at the top untoest his self.
 


 
But, just when it didst seemeth darkest, just when it wouldst appeareth that our hero's grasp on reality musteth surely fail, he was able to discovereth his Inner Porcupine !!
 

 
Whereupon, finally seeing light at the end of the trennel tunnel, he didst taketh up the Fearsome Clippers of Toe-Nail Destruction to trim that Porcupine ...
 




 
 
"They be subtle," our Hero didst sayeth. "But the detail be there ... and it be good, methinks !!"
 
At this stage, it twouldst be pertinent to point out that nobody has informed CaptainSteve just yet that the outer hull couldst beeth in need of a good trennelling, as well.
For the sake of our Hero's sanity, let's just keep that matter betwixt our own selves, for the time being !!!

Here is a small update on the added bulkheads.  They really do look nicer than the spacing provided by the kit.  I traced one of the ends of the plywood kit bulkheads and and cut a cardboard template.
 

 
Then I transferred the shape to a stack of 3 or 4 pieces of basswood and cut them out on a scroll saw.  After they were separated I would measure the space where each one was to live and cut the tails appropriately.
 

 
Since all they support are the planks, for the center of the bulkhead I just glued in a piece of basswood wide enough to stick out on either side of the oak strip.
 

 

 
All of the extra bulkheads are cut but I still have a lot of oak to bend and a whole lot of planks to cut and sand.  
 
I will do a mock up to see how caulking looks.  Surely the Vikings had something they used for waterproofing.