Glenn-UK

Foremast Crows Feet Rigging The repairs to the bowsprit rigging were made yesterday. I inadvertently sniped one of the undamaged spritsail top braces threads during the repair process which also had to be replaced. Today I was able to start work on the foremast crows feet rigging. I seized some 0.1mm natural thread to 2 x 2mm single blocks along. I then seized the foremast euphroe block to one of the 2mm blocks. Next I checked that it would be possible to feed some 0.1mm natural thread through the 2mm blocks, as can be seen in the photo below. With reference to the rigging plans I attached the first 2mm block to the fore preventor stay. It was very fiddly work for my big hands but it only took a few minutes work to complete. I am aware the lines look fluffy. I did not apply beeswax to the lines beforehand. The fluffy nature of the lines is only really noticeable (in my view) when taking close up pictures. A longer distance view of the first 2mm single block in place on the preventor stay. I then added the rigging between the two blocks and the free end was secured to the fore preventor stay. Again this was fiddly work. It was now time to add the crows feet rigging. Just to make sure of the sequence I drew a rough sketch which shows the 14 holes on the platform and the 7 holes of the euphroe block. It is just a simple case of starting at position 1 on the platform and tracing a route until the line has passed through all the holes. The following photo shows my rough sketch The distance between the euphroe block and the platform is around 6cm on average and there would be 14 runs required between them. This equates to a total run length of 0.84m. I therefore decided to cut a 1m length of 0.1mm natural thread just to be on the safe side. With a knot added to one end I started to feed the thread, as shown in the photo below. I am not totally happy with how the euphroe block looks. It is to tight with the 2mm block (and not very flexible) so I may decide rework it but I would prefer not to so for the time being I will leave it as is. I did find it tricky feeding the thread through the platform hole from the underside but with a steady hand, good eye / hand coordination and a bucket load of patience I did manage to do it. Sometimes it took me a few goes (<10) and sometimes it took me several goes (>20). On a couple of occasions, when the free end became a bit bending, I found it necessary to trim and to then reapply some ca gel to stiffen the end back up again. The crows feet is now fully rigged. I will spend a bit of time adjusting the tension in the lines before I tied off the free end which I can do a later stage. The euphroe block is not perfect but I think I will leave it as is.

In my last post I indicated that I made a repair to a block fastened to an eyelet on the bowsprit end cap. Sadly my repair failed when I noticed there was no tension in the rigging line. On closer inspection the block was no longer attached to the eyelet. I have therefore removed the rigging and will redo it again. Also I made a fatal error when trimming the spritsail braces which meant they had to be removed and will be redone.

Fore Stay and Preventor It has been a productive morning. I noticed one of the blocks that had been rigged to the bowsprit endcap eyebolt had become detached. My first thought was I would had to derig the line and redo. On closer inspection I decided there was a simple work around solution which after about 5 minutes work meant the block was securely retied to the eyelet. Using a needle I was able to pass some new thread through the gap between the seizing and the end of the block. The new thread was then fed through the eyelet of the endcap and tied off. The photo below shows the good side, which did not need the repair. The next photo shows the other side where the repair was made. It will take an eagle eye to spot this on bodge job repair once the ship is fully rigged. Once the repair was complete I added the 6mm closed heart block to the fore stay. As I started to add the lanyard I noticed the seizing on one side of the forestay open heart block on the bowsprit had started to unravel. I knew it would be a major job to remove and re rig as it would also affect the bowsprit shroud rigging. With some gentle cutting I was able to remove the thread that had worked lose. I was then able to apply some new seizing. Once again it is not a perfect repair but it will be had to detect once the ship is fully rigged. With the open heart block repaired I then added the lanyards for the fore stay which is shown in the picture below. The following is a picture of the competed forestay. With no more repairs required I added the closed heart block the fore stay preventor followed by the lanyards. The next picture shows the completed rigging for the forestay and preventor. A close up of the forestay and preventor lanyards is shown below. The mouse arrangement for both the forestay and preventor is shown below On final task was to feed the spritsail yard braces thread free ends over the foremast stay, above the mouse. If you look closely at the picture below you will notice the natural thread that is sitting on top of the lower mouse which is now waiting to be tied off. I am now debating the next step and I leaning toward adding the foremast crows feet rigging next.

Foremast Take 2 - Update Before I took the decision to remove the foreyard, due to the error I made in fitting the wrong sized double blocks for the jeers, I had tied off the brace threads to the spritsail top yard. I have not tied off the other end of these threads to their respective belaying point which will be done once the fore and preventor stays have been added. In the picture below I have used my reverse action tweezers to simulate tension on these braces. With the truss pendants and jeer double blocks removed the foreyard is supported by the quad hands ready for the replacement truss pendants and jeer blocks to be added. I have also removed the pin as I wish to fit a slightly longer pin. It did not take too long to fit the new jeer blocks and truss pendants. Once again I used clove hitch knots to secure the truss pendants. The next picture gives a better idea of the truss pendant arrangement. One pendant is a short length with a thimble (eyelet) at the end. The other truss pendant the free end. Once the yard is pinned to the mast the free end is passed through the thimble and once pull tight to keep the yard in place it can then tied off using a simple half hitch knot. The knot is then secured with a touch of ca gel as I did not think it was feasible for me to add a proper seizing. The foreyard (take 2) in place on the mast and looks good to my (wonky) eye. The foreyard booms have been removed for the time being. Next I added the jeer rigging. It was so much easier with the right size blocks fitted to the foreyard and I am reasonably happy with how this looks. The free ends have been taken down to the deck but have not be tied off to their respective belaying points. I will adjust and tension the jeer rigging as necessary when it is time to belay the free ends. Finally I made a start on adding the fore and preventor stays. After making a thimble on one end of the fore stay thread I did a trial fit and decided that the mouse needed to be position approx 8cm from the thimble. I added knotted thread on the stay at the 8cm point which will stop the mouse moving any close to the mast. The following picture shows this arrangement. Tomorrow I plan to add a 6mm closed heart block to the other end of the fore stay so it can be linked with the open heart of the bowsprit. I will then repeat the process for the preventor stay. I have not used a open / closed heart arrangement before as my previous builds have used deadeyes. I am not sure, as yet, how I can ensure the stays are tensioned when the lanyards are added but I am sure I will figure it out.

One step forward and two steps back with the foreyard After fitting the foreyard to the mast I noted I had incorrectly fitted 4mm double blocks for the jeers instead of using the 5mm double blocks shown on the plan sheets. Initially I thought I could get away with it as I was able to fed some 0.25mm thread through the 4mm double block holes when I tried on a spare block, noting I did find it necessary to run a micro drill through the block holes to slightly enlarge them. However when I then tried to rig the actual jeers in situ it proved much more difficult and I was not very happy with how the jeer rigging was looking. Therefore I took the sensible decision (time will tell) to remove the foreyard from the mast and to replace the 4mm double jeer blocks with 5mm double blocks. Thankfully the foreyard was easy to remove from the mast once I cut and removed the truss pendant thread. I was then able to remove the 4mm double blocks from the foreyard without any problems.

It looks good to me so I am happy. When looking at the jeer rigging I have realised I made an error when rigging the foreyard as I used 4mm double blocks instead of 5mm double blocks shown on the plans. It is not practical for me to change them as I would have to remove the yard which I do not wish to do. I have checked that the required 0.25mm natural thread can be fed through the 4mm double block holes so all is good to go. I will have to add the stays to the mast before the jeers are rigged before I hook the upper jeer blooks over the cleats on the mast. The stays can then be moved out of the way whilst I rig the jeers then the stays are then rigged to the bowsprit open heart blocks.

Foreyard Secured to Foremast I had been debating the best method to secure the foreyard to the foremast over the last couple of days. After some research and advice from James H and MSW members I opted for a slightly modified version of the method detail in Lennarth's Petersson's book. See the picture below for Lennarth's method. Lennarth's method seemed easy to do and it was similar to the method shown in Lee's book on Masting and Rigging (page 67). I did not think it was necessary to take the free end down to the deck for belaying (as shown in both reference books) and I agreed with Glenn (USA) that the free end of the pendant should be tied off at the mast. James H also confirmed he secured the yard to mast without the need to take a line down to the deck. I also thought the jeers, halliards and lifts would keep the yard firmly in play once they were rigged. Using a simple clove hitch knot the truss pendants were added to the yard prior to fixing to the mast. The starboard side provided the free end and the port side provided the thimble which the free end would need to pass through before it was tied off. I had already added a pin to the yard and this was used to locate the yard on mast, with a touch a ca gel on the pin and a touch a wood glue on the yard, either side of the pin. The next picture shows the yard in place and, as can be seen, I positioned the clove hitch knots used to secure the truss pendants on top of the yard. With the yard in place I was then able to feed the free end through the thimble and tied it off, as can be seen in the next couple of pictures. Finally I have added a couple of pictures of the completed yard in place, I quite like the view shown in the first picture Before moving on to adding the fore and fore preventer stays I think it may be an idea to rig the foreyard jeers and halliards for ease of access. I can also complete the partially rigged spritsail top yard braces. Once the fore and fore preventer stays have been added I can then complete the partially rigged spritsail yard braces which need to be tied off on the fore stay above the mouse.

Nice work

Hi Rob I'm no expert but I'm to share my methods and ideas so feel free to ask away.

Thanks, so many options to consider. I think I will try Lennarth's method (2nd picture) as that looks the easiest method. I will tie off on mast.

The water line is clearly shown on one of the plan sheets. The reference points on the stem and stern posts also help which can seen on the plan sheets. Hope this helps.

I don't have Lee's book. Lennarth's book has a similar picture

Foremast Yard - How To Secure To The Foremast? I have completed all the work on the foremast yard and it is ready to be secured to the foremast. This post is a request for help as I'm unsure how to go about this task. I have detailed on possible method which I think can work but I would really appreciate any ideas / help in this respective. The photo below shows the plan sheet. It shows a small length of thread which is used to hold the yard to the foremast which is fed through and then seized to the some thread eyelets. There appears to be a second thread holding the yard to mast. Next I looked at Lennarth Petersson's book, which showed something similar, but the linking thread is taken down to a belaying pin possibly via a block and tackle arrangement and maybe to a eyelet on the foremast channel. Finally I looked through Jim's excellent build log and found the following photo, but it was difficult to work out the method used. Based on the above research I have come up with one possible method which I have trialled, as detailed below. Stage 1 - Make a Eyelet I took a length of 0.75mm natural thread and using some 0.1mm natural thread I added 5 seizing's coils to make an eyelet. It was important to ensure there were two equal lengths of the thread coming from the eyelet as can be seen in the photo below. This process was repeated to make a second eyelet again with two equal lengths of thread. Stage 2 - Secure the eyelet thread to the yard Taking one end of the first eyelet's thread I secured it to the yard using a simple clove hitch knot. To test the process I used a spare piece of 8mm dowel, noting the actual yard is octagonal with cleats to hold the thread in place. I have not applied any ca gel or trimmed the excess thread away on the test build once the knot was tightened as I intend to use these threads on the actual yards. The second eyelet thread was also secured to the test yard, again using a clove hitch knot. Stage 3 - Securing to the mast The next stage is to take one of the threaded eyelet ends and to pass it behind the yard before passing it through the opposite eyelet where it would then be seized. The next step is to take the other eyelets thread end and to pass it behind the yard before threading through the opposite eyelet where it would then be seized. I have not added the seizing in the photos below where the test yard has been secure to a test mast. The first photo shows the clove hitch knots and I am just holding the unseized ends in place so these threads can be used on the actual yards and mast. The clove hitch needs to be rotated by 180 degrees so it not visible. The next photo shows how the threads will hold the yard to the mast with the threads fed through their opposite eyelets. Assuming there is room to add the seizing's on the actual model I think this method will work. I also need to check I can hold the thread in place under tension while the seizing is added. As I said at the beginning of this post I am looking for help, suggestions on how to tackle this task.

Foremast Yard - Production Yesterday I started work on the foremast yard. Firstly I made the 2 off stunsail booms. Each comprised a length of 3mm dowel which was tapered to 1.5mm along its length using my proxxon mini lathe. A 0.8mm hole was also drilled in each one, as shown on the plan sheet. Next I moved on the main foremast yard. This was slightly more complicated and started life as a length of 8mm dowel. Leaving the middle section (66mm wide) at 8mm for the time being each end of the dowel was tapered down to 3.5mm on the mini lathe. During the tapering process I made sure the 2 x stunsail support brackets would fit. Once I was happy with the tapering the middle section was shaped (very badly) as an octogen and once that was complete the two cleats were glued in place. Next I added the stunsail end irons and hooks and completed the process by drilling the yard for the yard footrope stirrups. Today I moved on the various blocks and spent a couple of hours seizing thread to the various blocks. A couple of blocks required eyelets and there were a couple of double block seizing required. With this task complete the next task will be to add them to the main yard and to rig the footrope stirrup's. Once that is done I can secure the stunsail booms in place and paint the completed yard assembly black. The follow photo shows the current progress, the stunsail booms and footrope stirrup's are only dry fitted.

That is a good idea, I could do something similar when I print out the template. That said my pencil annotations X, 0, 1 and 2 works OK also.

Lower Ratlines Completed I had a really good day in the shipyard today and managed to complete the ratlines for the lower masts, approx. 1000 clove hitch knots tied. I am reasonably happy with the end result as they look much better than any of my previous builds. I now need to manufacture the Fore Yard, Main Yard and Crossjack Yard and associated Stunsail Booms. Once complete they will be added to their respective masts before I can start work on adding the stays.

Nicely done

I did add across the full span. May look better to rig as two for first 2/3rds and then rig as one for final 1/3

Ratlines - My Method I use to start at the bottom and work my way up and I usually ended up with hourglass shaped shrouds. I changed to the method detailed in this post on the DOK build and then on my Alert build and it has yield much better results. So here is my process Looking at the plans I note the main mast outer stern side shroud only has a few ratlines, as can be seen in the picture below. As detailed in my post I opted for a 5mm spacing between ratlines to replicate the 13" spacing on HMS Victory at 64th scale With reference to the next photo I print out a set of guidelines, with a 5mm spacing which is cut to shape an pinned to the shrouds. On the template X indicates the full length ratlines which are the first ones to be added. Next I add the ones either side of the X which are the ones indicated with on 0 on the template. After that I add the middle ones as indicated by a 1 and finally I complete the process by adding in the 2's. I tie a half hitch of the first shroud (which does not require a ratline 0,1 and 2) as I find it easier to then add the clove hitch knot to the first shroud. Once the ratline is completed I apply a touch a ca gel to the first and last clove hitch before I trim the excess thread. The half hitch can then be released from the first shroud line. Once I have completed adding all the ratlines I will check and adjust the positions where necessary before I brush on a diluted pva solution over all the shrouds and ratlines. Moving on to the mizzen mast they are all full length ratlines. I started by adding every 5th ratline one as indicated by the 0's (see photo below). I then added the middle ones as indicated by the 1 which is as far as I got when I took the picture below. I will now fill in the missing ratlines. I have already added one near the top so now I will add on near the bottom and will continue to work in both directions alternatively. I also like to work from left (stern) to right (bow) on the starboard side. To begin the process I cut a suitable length of ratline thread (approx 8cm for the example below) and I create a clove hitch knot around the first shroud line. This can be seen in the photo below but the knot has not been tightened. Ensuring I keep as much thread as possible available for the rest of the ratlines the knot is tightened up, checking its position with the template. Moving on to the second shroud line I form a clove hitch knot. I find I can make the knot much quicker using my reverse action tweezers. The position of the knot is adjusted to take out the slack, I am almost there in the photo below. Once I am happy I pull the knot tight. Onward on upward I move to the third shroud line and the first part of the clove hitch knot is formed. Using the reverse action tweezers the second loop is soon created. Once the position is adjusted and the slack removed the knot is pulled tight. On to the final shroud line the clove hitch knot is quickly formed. Once the slack is taken up the knot is pulled tight. It take me around 3 minutes to add a ratline to the mizzen mast shrouds and around 7 minutes for the main mast. I use a touch of ca gel to second the knots at each end. I do not apply gel ca to the other knots. After a few seconds the excess thread can be trimmed. I tend to do a few ratlines at time before I trim the excess. Once I have completed adding all the ratlines I will check and adjust the positions where necessary before I brush on a diluted pva solution over all the shrouds and ratlines.

Thank you, it is very repetitive work but quite therapeutic. I have a nice simple method which seem to yield decent results most of the time.

Many thanks, once the sailors have been up and down a few times they will move a bit and become uneven.

Ratlines - The never ending saga of clove hitch knots. Work continues with adding the ratlines, each ratline takes me between 5 to 10 minutes to complete. Yesterday I completed work on the starboard side foremast. There are one of two ratlines I could have done better, but overall I like how they have turned out. In the picture below I should have added one more ratline just below the catharpin rod. The sailors on this ship will there earn their daily tot of rum when climbing up and over the rod on to the futtock stave ratlines. This morning I have been working on the main mast starboard shrouds. Again there are 2 or 3 which I could redo but overall they do not look too bad. I am a little bit concerned that I will not have enough ratline thread left to complete the process, especially when I start work on the top mast ratlines. I'm trying not to be too wasteful so fingers crossed.

I should visit the National Museum of the Royal Navy - Hartlepool for inspiration which is about a 90 minute drive. The HMS Trincomalee is berthed there which is one of the two surviving British Frigates of her era. I have been a couple of times and really helps with get an good idea of what these ships were like. HMS Trincomalee - Wikipedia

Your welcome

Thank you, I agree interval fitting is the best method for adding ratlines.