Glenn-UK

Hi Glenn (USA) I wish it was that simple, the two quarter gallery berthing patterns are misaligned with the upper counter pattern, the outer bulwarks are misaligned with the lower counter pattern. To fix the problem I would need to remove and reposition the lower and upper counter patterns and the stern fascia pattern. This then affects the planking which would need to be extended once the lower counter pattern is repositioned.

After much debate, soul searching and reviewing the alternatives I have realised I have made really made a mess of my current Sphinx build, and have been left with no alterative but to buy another kit as I do not think I can realistically recover the situation and build this wonderful model to the standard it merits or I desire. This came to light as work progressed on the quarter galleries. I have seriously considered seeing if I remove all the parts incorrectly fitted, ordering some replacement parts where necessary and then fix the problem. This, in my opinion, is a none starter as I think there is too many parts to remove to fix the problems. I must stress the problems with my Sphinx are purely down to my building skills and not with the quality of design of the kit which is outstanding. I think the Vanguard Models are the best kits on the market and I have enjoyed all my previous builds. My plan on moving forward is to continue with this current build (and build log) and to treat it as a prototype build and to learn from the mistakes I have made, and I will probably make many more mistakes as my prototype build progresses. Once the new Sphinx kit arrives I will start the build in parallel, taking greater care and more time with the build to avoid the mistakes made with my current build. My mantra will be "check, check again and to then check again"

Coming along nicely

I'm glad to be the builder making all the mistakes, it is my trademark.🤣

Thanks James The top roof pattern leading edge was shaped before I glued in place. I made the mistake of shaping the leading edge before the outer window pattern which meant the window pattern was sitting proud. of the top pattern. This picture shows the marking I made before I sanded the bevel.

HULL ASSEMBLY QUARTER GALLERIES BUILD MANUAL STEP 211 - 228 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Titebond original Clamps Black paint Gathering the materials required 29 (x2) 45b (x2), 45c (x2), 46 (x4), 59 (x2), 89 (x2), 158 (x2) 481 & 482 Assembly Process Continuing on with the quarter galleries the two inner window patterns were glued and clamped in place. Next I looked at shaping the top patterns (29). I started with the stern patter edge before shaping the front edge. I made a bit of a boo boo when shaping the front edge as I did not account for the outer window pattern, which should have been fitted prior to the top pattern. Thankfully (once again) I have been able to fudge it so no real harm done. After I had fitted the top pattern the outer window pattern was shaped, glued and clamped in place. Moving forward the next gallery pattern (43c) was shaped and glued in position. I used a small packing piece to ensure it stayed in the right position as the glue cured. Once the glue had cured the berthing patterns were glued and clamped in place. The final task was to make and fit the lower finishing patterns. I started the process by drying parts 29 and 45b and once I was happy with there relative positions they were glued together. I also glued the two parts 46 together. Once all the parts had been glued together the lower finishing pattern was shaped. This took some time before I was happy with the shaped assembly. It was then glued in place. I also painted this assembly black. Next task will be to complete the sanding and filling of the hull and then to paint it white. Photo of the inner window pattern clamped after fitting Marking the top pattern before shaping Stern edge after shaping Top pattern fitted. I should have fitted the outer window pattern and shaped the top pattern accordingly Outer window pattern clamped in place after gluing Stern pattern 45c is glued in place, with space to keep in position s the glue cures Berthing pattern clamped Quarter gallery, just needs lower finishing pattern Lower finishing pattern has now been added and painted black A view from the rear

Fingers crossed, work is progressing well on the quarter galleries at the moment.

HULL ASSEMBLY QUARTER GALLERY AND PAINTING THE WALES BUILD MANUAL STEP 194 - 210 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Titebond original Clamps Varnish Black paint Gathering the materials required 45 (x4), 45a (x2), 51 (x2), 75, 88, 156, 157, 196, Assembly Process Due to the problem highlighted in my last post I changed tact a little bit. I started by positioning the stern fascia – inner (part 88), ensuring the top sat proud of the transom by approx. 2mm, reference step 202. Once I worked out the correct position I applied some titebond to the stern area and added the fascia to the stern. Once I was happy the glue had cured enough to hold to the pattern in place I moved on and added the upper counter pattern (75), again using titebond. The gapping between the patterns was nowhere near as bad as I was expecting and I am confident the rails, when fitted will hide the gaps (as stated in step 208). The gapping is more noticeable on the left hand side, so when complete the model will be displayed from the right side. I then moved on to starting work on the quarter galleries. Parts 45 and 45a were shaped as per the instructions and then glued in position, using part 51 to set the angle between the middle and upper gallery patterns. Overall everything was a good fit. Tape was applied above and below the wales. I ensured the tape edges were firmly pressed in position. The pin holes on the wales were filled. The wales were then coated with a thin coat of polyurethane varnish. Once the varnish had dried I hand painted the wales, using a water based black paint. Three thin coats were applied. Once the final coat had dried the paint was sealed using another thin coat of polyurethane varnish. The upper stern counter pattern and outer stern fascia patterns were glued in place, clamps were used to hold them in place while the glue cured. This picture shows how I positioned the fascia pattern, sitting proud of the transom. There is a slight gap on the left had side with the upper counter pattern Quarter gallery patterns fitted I used a clamp to hold the upper pattern in position as the glue cured The hull is taped ready for painting the wales, the varnish has been added Painting of the wales in progress The quarter gallery required some black paint (as this area could be seen through the windows) This picture shows the gapping between the stern patterns A blurry photo showing the outer fascia pattern clamped The upper stern counter pattern is clamped The painted wales and stern area, nowhere bad looking as I first feared but it is not great work on my part. The painted wales Quarter galleries This shows the stern area, not very good building on my part, but the rails (when fitted) should cover up the gaps. When looking forward I was confused with build step 220 with regard to the position of part 45c. Thankfully @James H was able to send me a modified picture, which I have added to this post.

Following some off line discussions with James who provided me with much needed very sound advice I have a plan to move forward. I have totally agreed with his assessment and suggestions however I have decided, for this build, there is too much risk involved with ripping off some parts already fitted so I will push on as is, accepting all imperfections and not to be to be self-critical of my building skills. At some stage, probably much later in the build process I will probably buy another Sphinx kit and build it in slow time, taking greater care which I hope will be built to a higher standard.

HULL ASSEMBLY ADDING THE WALES BUILD MANUAL STEP 187 - 193 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Titebond original Pins Gathering the materials required 71, 72, 73, 74,137, 139, Assembly Process The two main wale patterns were soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and then pinned to the hull. The wales were then left overnight to dry out. Once the parts had dried out it was a simple task to apply some titebond to the wales and fix to the hull Major Problem Alert The next stage is to fit the Inner upper counter (156) and the Stern facia pattern – inner (88). With reference to build step 149 the lower stern counter pattern was positioned so it’s top edge is aligned with the bottom edge of the stern timber slots. In build step 202 it notes Stern facia pattern will be approx. 2mm higher than the bulwarks. With the inner upper counter positioned on of the lower stern counter pattern the stern facia pattern seems to lower than the bulwarks. If I position the stern facia pattern so it fits as instructed (sitting 2mm proud of the bulwarks) there is a gap between the lower and upper counter patterns. I have been checking to see where I have gone wrong. I can only conclude the lower stern pattern should have been positioned higher, maybe so it’s top edge should have been aligned with the top edge of the stern timber slots rather than the bottom edge. It looks like I will need to make a filler piece to sit between the lower and upper stern counter patterns. The other option is fit and to then trim the top of the bulwarks as necessary.

You are moving along very quickly and nice work so far.

Thanks Malcolm.

HULL ASSEMBLY SANDING AND FILLING 2ND PLANKING BUILD MANUAL STEP 186 & 230 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife 120 & 400-grit sandpaper Wood filler White (water based) paint Titebond original Gathering the materials required No parts required Assembly Process I started the process by brushing on a thin coat of white paint to the hull. This really shows up the areas which needs to be sanded and filled. After the initial sanding I was reasonably happy that the hull was smooth. I then decided to continue with the sanding and filling phase (step 230 of build manual) to get the hull ready for the painting phase. I made up a solution which was approximately 50% wood filler, 40% water and 10% Titebond original and coated it over the hull. Using an old paint the diluted solution was applied to the hull. The diluted solution fills any gaps between the adjacent planks very nicely. The hull was then left overnight to allow the solution to dry and harden. The hull was then sanded, to remove the excess filler and paint before a new coat of white paint was applied. A few areas dips were once again highlighted so another diluted wood filler solution was used and left overnight to dry. After sanding the hull look much better, but still required another application of the diluted wood filler solution. This does take time, but hopefully I will reap the benefits when the hull is ready for painting. I plan to move on to adding the wales and starting work on the gallery assembly once the hull has been sanded, after the current wood filler solution has fully dried.

The taping is only for the sanding and filling phase. I will be marking the waterline again and taping later on in the build when it is time to paint the hull. The stem and stern posts will be painted white below the waterline, the tape is only added at this stage to protect the laser etching when sanding.

Cotton buds and acetone should do the trick, that's is going to be my plan where needed.

It sure does, I may look at that after I have built the Sphinx

Thankfully I had plenty of acetone to clean my fingers after each session

HULL ASSEMBLY 2ND PLANKING RIGHT-HAND SIDE COMPLETED BUILD MANUAL STEP 182 - 186 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife 120 & 400-grit sandpaper Gorilli super glue gel Waterline marker Tape Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: Planking strips Assembly Process I have finally completed the 2nd planking stage. I am not very adept at planking but each new model I have planked is better than the previous model. I would love to be able to buy a kit that allows me to just practice the fairing and planking process. I have also trimmed the jig supports, as these are now longer required. With reference to the plan sheet provided I marked and taped the water line. I started the process by taping both the stem and stern posts areas, using the reference points provided on the laser engravings as a guide. Then using my waterline marker I drew the line between the two taped points. I then added tape so I can sand and fill the area below taped waterline. The Sphinx is now taped and ready for the sanding and filling phase.

I hope to complete the planking in the next couple of days. We have our 10 month granddaughter (and her parents) staying with us for a few days but I'm sneaking a bit of time in the shipyard during her naps. I also having to make all the arrangements for my Mum's funeral who passed away last week after a short illness, aged 92.

HULL ASSEMBLY 2ND PLANKING RIGHT-HAND SIDE STAGE 1 BUILD MANUAL STEP 182 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife 120 & 400-grit sandpaper Gorilla super glue gel Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: Planking strips Assembly Process I have made slow and steady progress with the 2nd planking on the right-hand side, my time in the shipyard is a bit limited at the moment. I have completed the 2nd planking along the bottom edge of the stern counter which I find this the hardest aspect of the planking task. I am not very adept at the planking aspect, but I am reasonably happy with how the stern area has turned out. The bow is not too bad, the bottom edge looks a bit odd in the photos below which may be a weird shadow effect. It will require a small amount of filler however in one small area.

HULL ASSEMBLY 2ND PLANKING LEFT SIDE BUILD MANUAL STEP 182 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife 120 & 400-grit sandpaper Gorilli super glue gel Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: Planking strips Assembly Process Following on from my last post I have completed the 2nd planking to the left-hand side. Each plank was cut in two with one half used for the bow and the other half used for the stern and a joint around the midship area. This made the job so much easier. I found by sanding the joint line once the plank had glued the sawdust could bind with any residual ga gel in the joint to fill gaps. Occasionally I found it necessary to brush some diluted pva over the parts of the plank joint area so the gaps would get filled with the sawdust / pva mix during sanding. Overall I am reasonably happy with the 2nd planking and I do not think it will require too much more work (sanding and filling) before the painting phase. The right-hand side 2nd planking task will be done next.

Looks like you're using the same method as me 😂, looking good however.

Many thanks Malcolm

I have just experimented to find what works best for me. This is the first time I have tried to sand the hull as plank. So far it seems to be working as I can focus my attention to a small area. Once the hull has been full planked it may need some more work before it is ready to be painted.

@Jasseji I am using three very similar methods. a) In the first instance, straight after the plank is glued in place, I will sand the joint line between the two planks. This will remove any excess ca gel and the sawdust can sometimes bind with any residual ga gel in the joint area to fill gaps. b) For the plank edges with the stern counter, stern post and stem post I am sanding the planks in situ and then using an old paint brush which is dipped in diluted pva move the plank sawdust to the joint between the planks and posts where needed. c) Where the plank joint has been made (i.e. when I have cut a plank in half and then fitted one half for the bow and the other half for the stern) I brush some diluted pva over the plank joint area and sand so any gaps get filled with the sawdust / pva mix. This is also will be used if there a small gap between adjacent planks. I hope that explains what I am doing.