Glenn-UK

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY CHAIN PUMP ASSEMBLY BUILD MANUAL STEPS 381 - 383 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding stick Titebond original glue Old paint brush Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 199 (x4), 476 (x2) Replicating James's build manual photo Assembly Process Not the most difficult task. I removed the laser char from the visible edges. Next I applied a thin coat of glue to the back of each chain pump outer patterns and then added them to the chain pump main patterns. The completed Chain Pumps The competed assemblies were then dry fitted to the gun deck to ensure they would locate in the slots. They were then removed as they will be glued in place later in the build process. I also need to apply a varnish.

I am pleased to report I have managed to release the misaligned left-hand upper hull side pattern with application of water and a very sharp blade. I have clamped the pattern in place but I will need to allow time for the structure to fully dry out before I apply a fresh coat of glue. So I will move on to building more gun deck fixtures and fittings in the meantime.

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY COAMINGS AND LADDERS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 350 - 370 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding sticks Titebond original glue Old paint brush Clamps Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 116-131 & 353-365 Assembly Process - Coamings Using a sanding stick I removed the laser char from all the visible edges, taking great care as some aspects are very fragile. Glue was then applied to the upper parts and then they placed on their respective lower parts. Clamps were used to ensure the parts were held firm as the glue cured. The grating covers were dry fitted and the completed coamings were put to one side as they will be added to the gun deck later in the build process. Completed coamings Assembly Process - Ladders Each ladder comprised several items, as follows: Side inner rails Side outer patterns Steps Aft Gun parts Aft Gun Deck Ladder Assembly I started the assembly process by gluing 3 steps to one of the inner side rails, one step in the top slot, one step in the middle slot and one step in the bottom slot. The assembly was then left for approx. 10 minute to allow time for the glue to grab before the other inner side rail was added. It was then a simple process to fit the remaining steps. I then brushed some diluted glue on the outside edge to ensure the steps were fully glued in place. Aft ladder ready for outer side patterns to be added Once the glue had cured the outside edge of the ladders were sanded smooth before the outer side patterns were glued in place. Completed Aft Gun Deck Ladder The assembly process was then repeated for the other 4 ladders. The completed ladder assemblies were put to one side and will be added to the gun deck later in the build process. All completed ladders

@BobG I had already edited my post. I will release the bow section (using water) and realign.

HULL ASSEMBLY ADDING THE UPPER HULL SIDE PATTERNS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 134 -137 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Titebond original glue Old paint brush Clamps Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 136, 138 Assembly Process The hull side patterns were removed from the hull, after being left clamped to the hull for approx. 18 hours to fully dry out. I was concerned with a little bit of bulging of the patterns near the stern area. On closer examination I found the problem was due to an alignment issue with a couple of the repaired bulkhead ears, which had broken off during the fairing process. I decided to remove two of the damaged ears and this solved the bulging problem. Starting with the right-hand pattern I applied a diluted glue solution to the hull frame. I then carefully aligned the pattern with the first couple of gun port openings and added a clamp. More clamps were added as I continued to align the pattern moving toward to the stern. Finally, I applied clamps to the bow area and the hull was put aside to allow time for the glue to cure. . I used all my clamps Close up of the bow clamping Clamping the stern area I repeated the process for the left-hand pattern. Death by clamping😂 After the glue had had time to cure the clamps were removed and I stood back to admire my work as instructed in step 130 of the build manual 😀 There is a slight misalignment at the bow. I will use some water to release the front edge and realign as necessary.

You're moving on nicely

Looks good. Mine needed very little touch up when fairing the hull

Looks good to me and I am sure you will do a great job.

I like using Florey standing sticks. I have never used or seen a sanding sponge

I used a very similar method sanding the crap out of the hull using my Amati sanding block (40mm wide) fitted with 100-grit sandpaper for the majority of the fairing. I think this is a great tool. When there was a bit more extra material to remove I used my mini power sander and / or a course grained Florey sanding stick before reverting the Amati sanding block to complete the task.

Thanks Bob I have always struggled with fairing. I think you always need to take off more than you think. That said with the Sphinx it was much easier than I was expecting. Using the removal of the laser char as the guide was certainly the best method, thanks to @James H for this tip in his build log.

Thanks @chris watton. I was not overly concerned about the broken tabs, knowing all would be OK once the outer pattern had been fitted. I was more concerned with the apparent slight bulging of the outer pattern. I'm sure there will be a simple solution, probably fairing related. Will start the 1st planking, hopefully in the morning.

I second this comment. The coaster, as with the previous Vanguard kits received in a very nice touch and greatly appreciated.

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY FAIRING THE HULL BUILD MANUAL STEPS 128 - 133 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding sticks (thin and standard) 100, 120 & 180-grit sandpaper Sanding block Power sander Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 136, 138 Assembly Process The fairing of the hull was quite time consuming as there was quite a bit of material to remove as the both the longitudinal and vertical gun port frames sat proud of the bulkheads. I suspect these parts may not have been fully seated in some places when fitted, but at the time I was certain they had been. It took me about a couple of hours per side to fair the hull, using the removal of the laser char as a good guide when all the excess material had been removed. I performed a few checks using a planking strip up and down the hull to ensure they were laying flush against each of the faired bulkheads and I concluded everything look good. A word of warning, the ears on bulkheads 9, 10, 11 and 12 sit proud are very fragile. I managed to break all of the port side during the fairing process when I inadvertently rested the hull side on my leg to get a better angle for sanding a particulate area. Thankfully I was able to glue them back in position (sort off) using the jigs (J9 to J12) to ensure the correct spacing can be maintained. They will be protected once the upper side panels have been glued in place, noting the will removed after the quarterdeck has been fitted much later in in the build process. Using a sharp craft knife blade in conjunction with a thin sanding stick I trimmed the inner bulwarks gun ports opening so they matched the gun port frame openings. This picture was taken at the start of the process after I had trimmed the bottom edge but before trimming the side edges. Next the bow ends of the two upper hull side patterns were soaked in hot water for around 45 mins. There patterners were then carefully positioned and will now be left clamped to hull until the morning to ensure the parts have dried fully out. When clamping the two upper hull side patterns I noticed a slight gap towards the stern (on both sides), where it is difficult to clamp with the jig beams in place. I investigate and, if necessary, do a little bit more fairing to resolve the problem, once the patterns have fully dried out. With a clamp in position, there is a gap but it is difficult to see on the photo The gap is more noticeable without a clamp As can be seen in the photo below there is still some char along the top edge which may be the problem. I need to be careful as I do not wish to damage the ears.

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY PAINTING INNER BULWARKS & SPIRKETTING FITTING GUN DECK PATTERN AND CHEQURED PATTERN DECK FITTING SPIRKETTING & STERN CABIN SEAT FITTING FORECASTLE BULWARK PATTERNS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 98 – 122 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding stick Amati’s special cleaner sanding block loaded with 120 grit sandpaper Brass pins Titebond original glue Old paint brush Polyeuthane clear matt varnish (Ronseal Ultra Tough Internal) Red Ochre (Admiralty Paint) Vallejo red arylic paint Tape (6mm) Clamps 0.8mm micro drill Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 16, 17, 18, 37 (X2), 53, 54, 59, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110 (x2), 111 (X2), 197, 198, Assembly Process – Preparing the Deck Patterns The chequered deck pattern was test fitted. It did not fit and required a little bit of work. I used a combination of the sanding block and sanding stick to remove the excess material. To check the chequered deck pattern was correctly positioned I used brass pins to ensure the two holes in the deck pattern were aligned with the two holes in the gun deck base. The process was repeated with the gun deck pattern. As can be seen in the photo below the pattern was not a perfect fit initially. Brass pins were used to ensure the various eyebolt holes were aligned between the gun deck pattern and gun deck base. I also ensured the various deck items that pass through the gun deck slots would locate in the slots on the lower gun deck. It was necessary to open the slot for the fore jeer bitt which was detailed later on in the build manual, as per build step 523. Please refer to my earlier post which shows this in more detail. aligning deck pattern post The deck patterns are aligned, the brass pins can be seen. Checking the deck items will fit, note the fore jeer bit slot had not been opened when this photo was taken The two deck patterns were put to one side ready to be fitted later in the build process. Assembly Process – Painting the Inner Bulwarks and Spirketting To get the best paint finish I applied a thin (diluted) coat of polyurethane varnish to the spirketting parts and the inner bulwarks. I tried to avoid varnishing the top and bottom area of the inner bulwarks to ensure (when glued) the spirketting was bonded wood on wood. I masked off areas on the inner bulwarks where the spirketting would be fitted, using 6mm tape. I also marked and taped the point on the inner bulwarks where the Forward Gundeck Cabin Bulkhead is to be located as there is no need to paint beyond that point. I then painted the spirketting and inner bulwarks with a base coat, using red ochre paint. I had forgotten to mask and paint the top rear spirketting patterns in the photo below To complete the painting process I added two coats of Vallejo red paint, which was thinned with a little bit of tap water. Assembly Process – Fitting The Chequered and Gun Deck Patterns Please refer to my build tip on aligning spirketting post prior to fitting the two deck patterns. I spread some diluted wood glue of the back of the chequered pattern deck and placed it on the gun deck base. Brass pins were used to ensure the holes were aligned. I used some clamps to hold the deck in place while the glue cured. I then repeated the process for gluing the gun deck pattern, using pins and deck items to ensure the gun deck pattern was correctly aligned. Once again clamps were used to ensure the gun deck pattern was held in position while the glue cured. Checking the deck items could be fitted. Assembly Process – Fitting The Spirketting and Stern Cabin Seat I spread some diluted wood glue of the back of the two lower forward spirketting and then I added some clamps to hold in place. Repeating the same process, the two lower rear spirketting were glued in place. When fitting the top spirketting I used some eyebolts to ensure the holes on the spirketting were aligned with the same holes on the inner bulwarks. The two stern cabin seat patterns were test fitted and once I was happy with the fit they were glued in place. Assembly Process – Fitting The Forecastle Bulwark Patterns The patterns 16, 18 and 37 (x2) were glued in place before pattern 17. The remaining safety gates were also removed from the hull. The Sphinx hull is now ready to be faired. I do need to touch up the painting on the top edge of the lower spirketting patterns

I still class myself as an enthusiastic beginner.

I spend quite a bit of my time in the dummy corner. I made a notch on the front right inner bulwark pattern which was fouling on bulkhead 3. Thankfully I realised that this was actually the front left pattern before I glued the part. The notch will not be visible once the spirketting pattern is added and is also under the gangway.

I had no issues with the deck parts, took my time to make sure they were fully enaged in the bulkhead locating slots.

BUILD TIP ALIGNING THE SPIRKETTING PATTERNS LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Build Tip I am in the process of fitting the gun deck patterns and spirketting patterns. The top spirketting pattern has a set of holes for eyebolts which need to be aligned with the holes on the inner bulwarks. To aid this process I find it beneficial to dry fit the eyebolts to the inner bulwark gun ports. This does not take too much effort. I used a 0.8 micro drill to increase the depth of the top pair of holes / gun port so the eyebolts could be fully inserted. It is not strictly necessary to increase the depth, but I prefer to do so. Close up of one gun port with the 6 eyebolts dry fitted I then did a trial fit of the top spirketting patterns, using the eyebolts to help align them. I now have confidence these patterns can be correctly positioned when they are ready to be glued in place. Before I glue the spirketting patterns I will need to fit the gun deck and chequered deck patterns. Close up, the left hand top spirketting may need a slight trim to ensure it buts up to the right hand pattern, as it currently overlaps. I also need to paint to the left hand pattern up to the forward bulkhead cabin pattern position. A view of both spirketting patterns

Ditto

BUILD TIP PREPARING TO FIT THE GUN DECK PATTERN AND THE CHEQUER PATTERN DECK SECTION With some previous builds I have sometimes had an issue with fitting parts that have to pass through different deck levels, especially after the hull has been planked. Given the excellent design work undertaken by @chris watton this has not been an issue so far for the HMS Sphinx. Noting there a quite few parts that have to pass through the gun deck to locating slots on the lower deck I have been checking the fitting the parts as each level is to added. By doing this I have found it much easier to make adjustments to ensure everything is correctly aligned. With regards to fitting the Gun Deck Pattern and Chequer Pattern Deck section the edges required a bit of trimming in order for them to fit on top of the gun deck base. My first check that the pattern deck parts were correctly aligned as they were being trimmed was to use small brass pins to see if they would drop through the small holes. The pins can be seen in the photo below. The next test was to see if I could dry fit the various deck items. With the majority of parts it was necessary to remove the laser char below the gun deck level, noting the laser char has to be removed from all the above deck areas. Without the hull planking it was much easier to ensure the parts were locating fully in the slots on the lower deck. Checking the midships, the fully inserted parts can be seen through the opening. Bow section. The two clamps are used to hold the bitts in place as the do not pass through to the lower deck. The brass pins can also been seen in this photo. The whole deck view. I has also used a couple of clamps to test securing the bow section of the gun deck pattern to the gun deck base. I will also make sure the three masts and two pump dowels can be fully inserted. This is not normally an issue as the dowels can be slightly tapered if needed.

I have jumped a few steps in the build process for this very minor build task, a very simple task but I have included in my build log for completeness. JIGS FOR HULL BUILD MANUAL STEPS 123 - 127 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding stick Titebond original glue Old paint brush Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: J0 (x8), JU, JV, JX, JY, JZ, J4, J5, J6, J7, J9, J10, J11, J12, 30 (x2) Assembly Process The various jigs are to help ensure the correct hull width spacing is maintained. They are not to be glued to the hull as they will discarded later in the build process. The jig beams JU- JV were glued into the respective slots of the 2 off longitudinal jig beams. The completed forecastle deck jig frame was then test fitted without any problems, as can be seen in the photo below. Jig beams J4 – J7 were test fitted and proved to be a perfect fit, as can be seen in the photo below. Jig beams J9 – J12 are secured in their respective bulkheads using pegs. I found it necessary to remove the laser char from the pegs to ensure a smooth fit. A photo showing all the jigs in place.

ADDING THE INNER BULWARK GUN DECK PATTERNS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 87 - 97 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding stick 120 & 400-grit sandpaper Titebond original glue Old paint brush Clamps Gathering the materials required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 213, 214, 215, 216, 409, 410 Assembly Process Before any work can be carried out it is important that the inner framework is sanded smooth to enable to inner bulwarks to fit flush. For this task I used a mixture of sandpaper and sanding sticks. As indicated in the build manual the removal of the laser char as a good guide to indicate when the surfaces are flush. The port and starboard forward inner gundeck bulwark patterns were aligned along the length. I decided to apply the glue to the framework before adding the patterns Clamps were then used to hold the bulwarks in place and some diluted glue brushed into the joints for good measure Clamped in place Clamps removed Next the quarterdeck beam spacing patterns were glued to the stern bulkheads. There are very fragile so great care is needed when handling these parts. The port and starboard rear inner bulwark gundeck patterns were test fitted and seemed to be a good fit, just a slight bit of light sanding for a perfect fit. Glue was then applied to the framework and the rear inner bulwark patterns added and clamped. Diluted glue was also brushed into the joints. Rear Bulwarks clamped in place Clamps removed Task completed

I have added your build log to my Sphinx index, looking forward to watching your progress. You've made a good start

I have added your build log to my Sphinx index, looking forward to watching your progress.