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Glenn-UK

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Everything posted by Glenn-UK

  1. This is an "unofficial" build log post, so is not linked to my build log index and is not in the format I'm planning to use for each completed task post. I have had a good day in the shipyard. I am ready to start the off boat fairing of bulkhead 13 assy (stern) and bulkhead 1 (bow) assy. Before I make a start I have drawn some pencil lines to get an idea of how much material needs to be removed. There is quite a lot of material to remove so I will summon up the courage overnight and make a start in the morning. Close up of bulkhead 13 assy showing fairing pencil lines Keel with dry fitted bulkheads Keel with dry fitted bulkheads with tape protecting the infill
  2. MDF BUILD CRADLE ASSEMBLY BUILD MANUAL STEPS 1-5 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Flory sanding stick and 400- grit sandpaper Titebond original glue Old paint brush and small water pot Gathering the Materials Required The following kit parts are required for this section of the build: 31, 32, 33 (x2), 34 (x4) (all located on the 3mm MDF 2 sheet) Photograph of my work area, ready to start work on HMS Sphinx Close up photograph of the tools and material for this task. The sheet of paper in the top right of the picture is a printout of my prebuild notes for this task. I made a cut on either side of the securing tabs when removing each part from the MDF sheet to minimise the excess tab material left of the cradle parts. As each part was removed a sanding stick was used to remove the remnants of the tab material. This is a photograph of the cradle parts ready for assembly. Assembly Phase When I started to assembly the cradle I found it necessary to remove the laser char from the tab ends of parts 33 and 34 to enable them to fit into the locating slots. Photograph of the tab ends after sanding. After the laser char had been removed from the tab ends the cradle frame was assembled without any problems and locked in place using the 4 off frame securing pegs. I brushed some diluted glue into all the joints and put the completed cradle assembly to one side to allow the glue time to cure. Photograph of the completed cradle assembly
  3. KIT DELIVERED The pre ordered HMS Sphinx kit has now arrived and I am now really looking forward to starting the build. The prototype kit built by James Hatch looks amazing and is the build standard I would like to aspire to. I downloaded on-line build manual earlier this month in eager anticipation of receiving the kit and I spent many hours getting familiar with the build processes and, where necessary, adding to my tool and paint collection. I plan to take my time with this build (which will be a first for me!). I have started a build log, which will show how I have implemented the information contained in the building manual (rev 1) and the 23 off plan sheets. I will also share any tips, problems, etc. which may help others with their build. The kit was well packaged and protected There was a little bit of transit damage to the box, but the kit was so well packed and protected there were no problems with the kit once the box was opened. An example of the protection A very nice touch, a HMS Sphinx coaster The pear wood fitting (an optional extra) The manual looks very good The plan sheets are very well presented More layers of protection LINK TO MY BUILD LOG
  4. Fingers crossed you get a big delivery of printed material today😀
  5. I have started my HMS Sphinx build log as a word document to explain (to myself) how I plan to tackle the various stages.
  6. I have spent a bit of time trying to get use to using the new camera together with some photo editing software. There is so much to learn and I know I have only scratched the surface but I am amazed at what can be done. Many thanks to Tim and Glenn (USA) for their help. This was a picture I took and is the standard jpg file direct from the camera With this version of the same photo I have taken the raw file from the camera and applied a few effects. I have added a bit of everything that Adobe Lightroom can offer so I can could get an idea of what each control does. No doubt I have gone a tad overboard with the effects but nonetheless the results are, to a novice like me, staggering.
  7. Just been looking I would like to buy one but I would prefer to purchase from a UK supplier which does not seem to be available. Shipping to UK is also almost costs the same as the tool, seems expensive.
  8. Having spent some time reading the manual and James's build log the HMS Sphinx build is very well explained, the photos really help also. My initial impression is this will probably be a time consuming project for me, maybe 9 to 12 months, but hopfully it will be relatively problem free. There are a couple of build items I'm not sure about at the moment but I hoping once the kit arrives all will become clear.😀
  9. Looks good. My local model shop model shop gave me the inside track on the super phalic telling me its like a wood glue with ca grab properties.
  10. @chris watton much deserved success with the Sphinx venture. The standard of your previous kits proved without doubt your designs are cut above the others. The work undertaken by @James H in support aldo shows what is possible to build by mere mortals like me.
  11. Ditto. Interesting to see that the first planking at stern was finished short of the stern post which avoids sanding the false keel thinner with a beading line.
  12. This is testament to Chris's excellent design work and the stunning prototype model built by James.
  13. Looking forward to downloading the manual. Great news everything is now with the printers.
  14. Enjoy the build, I found everything was well designed and robust. The only problems encountered were of my own making and not with the kit.
  15. Thanks @DelF With the help already provided by Richard, Tim, Glenn (USA), James, etc. I have made some improvements, but there is still much more I need to do, so more experimentation needed as I get to grips with it all. Test Set Up No 1 Some initial pictures
  16. @Rik Thistle many thanks. I am going to experiment with using the Canon's AV mode which will let me adjust the f setting manually. I will also look at adjusting the "setting exposure compensation" for brighter or darker pictures
  17. Thanks @glbarlow. I know I need to use the matte side of the white backdrop rather than the smooth side. I will also experiment with light positions and larger f/stops
  18. Hello Richard I have recently bought a Canon 4000 DSLR Camera, complete with a EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lens along with the white backdrop and LED lights to try to take better pictures, noting I am a complete novice with regards to photography. I would welcome any tips from you or any other who tale great pictures such as @glbarlow, @James H, @DelF The photo below shows the basic set up. I am not sure what to do with regards positioning the LED lights as there is a lot for LED reflection on the Selens Photography backdrop. I have the backdrop shiny side forward, maybe I need to use the other side. I do also have a fabric white photography backdrop which I could try, but I would need to iron out the creases. As can be seen below the LED lights are clearly reflected I have improved it somewhat with the next photo by pointing the LED lights away from the backdrop, but there is still some LED light reflection visible on the left hand side by the stern. This is the set up when not in use.
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