Glenn-UK

Yards There are 4 yards to make for the Cutter Alert, 2 made from 4 mm dowels and 2 made from 3mm dowels. I thought I would share my build process for the spreadsail yard. The first task is to cut the 4 lengths of dowel as shown in the picture below. I always cut the dowels longer than required. This is because they need to be tapered and as the ends will need a small hole when positioned in the lathe these can be removed once the taper is complete. With reference to the picture below I have added tape the middle section of the dowels, which will not be tapered. I have also added a pencil mark to indicate the central point on all the yards. The next picture shows the spreadsail yard positioned in the lathe ready for the tapering process. I ensured the end of the non-tapered section was at the chuck face. I like to use a thin strip of 120 grit sandpaper to perform the tapering process, as shown in the picture below. Using the thin strip of sandpaper, the taper was applied. I stopped the lathe at regular intervals to check the diameter of the dowel at various points along the length, especially at the end where the 4mm dowel had to be reduced to 2mm, as shown in the next photo. I then repeat the tapering process of the other side of the spreadsail yard. The tapered dowel was then given a light sanding, by hand, with 800 grit sandpaper. Once I was happy with how it looked the two ends were trimmed away so the spreadsail yard was the correct length, as shown in the next picture. Before painting the spreadsail yard black I prefer to add the yard items which are: a) 7 x 3mm single blocks b) 4 x yard cleats c) 2 x inner yard large cleats d) 1 x pin for fixing yard to mast which I have found does make the rigging much easier. Having carefully marked the position of the 2 off inner yard large cleats I used a 0.8 micro drill to make the holes for the two cleat pins. I then added a touch of ca gel to the cleats pins before they were added to the spreadsail yard. I also drilled and added the pin. As can be seen in the photo below they seem to be positioned correctly. Moving swiftly on the positions of the 4 off yard cleats were marked on the spreadsail yard. I used the pear wood yard cleats rather than the PE cleats and then used Titebond original glue as it allowed me a bit more time to adjust their positions. The next two photos show the yard cleats in place on the spreadsail yard. The spreadsail yard is now ready to have the 7 x 3mm single blocks added and to be painted black. I am using the same method to seize the 7 x 3mm single blocks for the spreadsail yard as detailed in my Duchess of Kingston build, which I copied from DELF. Each block is held in the quad hands and seized to a length of 0.5mm black thread using some thin black fly-tying thread secured with a series of alternate top and bottom half hitches. A touch of GA gel was then applied to the seizing. A completed seized block is shown in the photo below. It did not take too long to seize the 7 x 3 mm spreadsail yard blocks as shown in the next picture. The 7 x 3mm blocks have been placed in their approx. position on the spreadsail yard in the next photo. The 7 x 3mm blocks were then attached to the spreadsail yard using a simple clove hitch knot. I then applied a diluted coat of Titebond original to the thread to seal the clove hitch knot and to keep the blocks in the right position. Once the diluted Titebond original had dried the excess thread ends were trimmed and the spreadsail yard was painted black and then temporarily pinned to the main mast for the next photo. The above process will be repeated for the 3 other yards.

Work has been slow over the last couple of days due to an unexpected family emergency. I have now completed the shaping of the bowsprit and two booms (main and driver). They will require the various block and cleats to be added. The bowsprit was an interesting shaping task. The raw material is an 8mm dowel. It requires a square end which has to fit through the square hole in the pawl bitt head and bowsprit step post. The rest of the dowel is tapered 6mm (from the square post) to 4.5mm at the other end. I started the process my making the square post section. Using my mini bench saw I cut the basic square shape. It then required a bit of effort using a sanding stick before the part would fit through the pawl bitt head and bowsprit step post. The round section of the dowel was then tapered using my mini bench lathe. In retrospect I think it would have been easier to have done the taper first and then squared of the end section. The 2 x 1mm holes were drilled. I have inserted some copper wire in these holes for the time being. Bowsprit has been dry fitted. The Main Boom and Driver Boom were both quite easy to make. The Main Boom raw material was a 5mm dowel. I started by tapering the short section for the main boom jaws. Once I was happy with how the main boom jaws fitted I then tapered the the rest of the dowel from 5mm down to 3mm. Main Boom resting on main bitt rail I repeated the process for the driver boom, which was made from a length of 3mm dowel. Main and driver boom. I used a small length of 0,1mm thread to temporarily hold the driver boom for the photo shoot. Bowsprit, Main Boom and Driver Boom with main mast

Today has been a good day, even though I did not spend a great deal of time in the shipyard. Adding the Stanchions The first task was to add the various stanchions to the top of the capping rail. Once they were in glued in place (CA Gel) I added the 0.5mm black thread. Main Mast I started work on the main mast with assembling the trestle tree and cross tree parts. The main mast is made from a length of 8mm dowel. I started by marking the position of bottom of the mast checks, the start of the mast taper and the section that is below the deck level. I cut the dowel slightly long which I find is useful when tapering the dowel using my mini lathe. Using my mini desk bench saw I trimmed the two edges for the 2 x mast cheeks so the width was 6mm. Using the bench saw again I then made the 5mm square section. I undercut the square section and then using a sanding stick I finished making the square section, checking at regular intervals to see if the trestle tree and cross tree assembly would fit. Once I was happy with the 5mm square section the top part was rounded off until the cap would fit. The final task was to add the taper from 8mm to 7mm along the above deck section, which was achieved using the mini lathe. The main mast is now ready for the cleats, belay pin rack and rigging blocks to be added. Top cap and trestle and cross tree assembly Mast checks are taped in position checking the angle of the trestle and cross trees is correct. 1mm copper wire used as a temporary FID. Yes I know the FID sits on top and not below. I had a senior moment, Topgallant Mast The topgallant mast was made from a length of 4mm dowel. Using my mini lathe I started by reducing the top section down from 4mm to 1.5mm. I made sure the topgallant mast truck would fit. With the dowel still in the mini lathe the 4mm to 3mm taper section was added. I finished off the work on the topgallant mast by adding the 2 x 1mm holes. Checking the fit of the main mast and topgallant mast through the cap and fid (copper wire for the time being and still below and not above) Rigging hole in the topgallant mast (copper wire inserted) Topgallant mast fitted Main and topgallant mast assembly dry fitted to the deck Main and topgallant mast assembly dry fitted to the deck Main and topgallant mast assembly dry fitted to the deck

Rudder Assembly This was a relatively straight forward task. After coating the rudder with a very thin coat of polyurethane varnish I sprayed the lower part white, two coats with a light sand between the coats. The top part of the rudder was then painted black as was the rudder gudgeon pintle's and braces. The two parts of the tiller arm were glued together and the laser char was removed from the edges. All the rudder parts are ready to be assembled. The rudder gudgeon and pintle's and braces were bend and affixed to the rudder using the klear polish method. A 0.8mm micro drill was then used to drill the holes in the rudder and stern post for the rudder gudgeon pintle's. Once the pintles were secured in place the rudder was offered up and secured to the stern post. The tiller arm was then glued to the rudder. Bow Area PE Parts The stem post eyebolt strap and the bowsprit ‘Iron Hoop' PE parts were painted black and then added to the bow area. The square bolts were then fixed to the ends of bowsprit ‘Iron Hoop'. Deck Furniture All the deck items have now been glued in place. I just need to add and rig the stanchions before moving mast, yards and booms. I have decided to leave adding the cannons and swivel gun assembly for the time being. I will add the deadeye and chain plate assembly to the channels when I'm ready to start the rigging phase.

Hello Uwe Many thanks for your comments. I like to share my build experience and to try to help others along the way. I would normally like spend, on average, 3 to 4 hours per day, which is a benefit of being retired.

As I am making good progress I will continue with the daily updates for the time being. I started with adding the eyebolts and eyebolts with rings to the deck. This was a simple task as the deck is predrilled. I did end up running a 0.9mm micro drill bit through these holes as I did find the holes a tad tight initially. Before fitting the central stern eyebolt I had noted that it has a 3mm single block fitted. In my experience I have found it better to add these blocks to the eyebolt prior to fitting to the deck. I essentially used the same method as DELF (Derek) used on his Speedy, hyperlink to this post is DELF Block Rigging. I started by making the becket. I simply used a 1mm diameter shaft and wrapped the thread around it and tied it off with a reef knot. I added a seizing over the knot to make it look neater and for added support. For the seizing I used a fine fly tying thread, 18/0 black Semerfli. This is a picture of the completed becket The becket was then added to the 3mm single block and seized. I used fly tying thread for the seizing (18/0 black Semerfli). I then added the eyebolt to the 3mm block using the method outlined by DELF. In the photo below the eyebolt with the 3mm block has been added to the deck along with the two cleats. I need to repeat this process for an eyebolt located at the bow Next I added some pins to the channels. It was an easy job to mark the position of the pins on the hull and I was pleased that the after drilling the hull the channel pins aligned perfectly with the drilled holes. Moving quickly on I added the side steps and anchor chock. The bottom side step and anchor chock were painted black. Side Steps Anchor Chock One of the jobs I don't like doing is drilling the bulwarks for the cannon eyebolts and rings. I really appreciated Chris's design on the Duchess of Kingston with the pre drilled holes on the inner bulwarks for these rings. I decided the best way forward for the Cutter Alert would be to make a jig. Starting with one of the support blocks I used for positioning the cannon ball racks I added a gun port location plate. Then added two vertical slates which were pre drilled. It is then a simple task to position the jig in the gun port and then using a micro drill through the locating holes to mark the position for the eyebolts and rings. The jig is in position, ready for the micro drill to be run through the two holes. The completed gun ports with the eyebolts and rings added. The ring on the left hand side needs to be repositioned so it hangs down. It will take a couple more hours work to complete the adding the eyebolts and rings to the gun ports. Then I plan to move on to fitting the rudder assembly and tiller. I would like to think that towards the back end of this week I will have moved on making the mast, yards, bowsprit and booms.

Today I started by adding the draught markings to the hull, using the klear polish method to secure the PE parts in place. I also painted the leading edge of the cathead knees ochre yellow. Next I moved on to the cannon ball racks. I gave each of the 10 x racks a thin coat of polyurethane varnish and then painted them ochre red. They need to be position 3mm above the deck so as the paint was drying I made some 3mm high support blocks. I applied a thin coating of Titebond original along the edge each cannon ball rack and using the support racks as a guide they were added to the bulwarks. Cannon ball racks have been glued in place and can be seen sitting on top of the support blocks. Empty cannon ball racks after the support blocks have been removed Next I placed a small drop of Titebond original in the cannon ball location holes and then using my small reverse action tweezers dropped the cannon balls in position. Completed cannon ball racks Close up of the cannon ball racks Finally I cleaned all the remaining PE parts in acetone and then soapy water and they are now ready to be blacked / painted as necessary. The remaining tasks to be completed include: a) Add channels, anchor chocks and step steps b) Add the deck deck eyebolts, rings, cleats and rigging eyebolts c) Add the mast base d) Assembly and fit the rudder, braces and tiller arm e) Fit the deck furniture, I have already assembled all these items f) Fit the bowsprit iron hoop g) assembly the anchors but they will not be fitted until after the rigging is complete Once the above tasks have been completed I can move on to making all the masts, bowsprit, yards and booms.

She looks stunning, can't wait for the official release of this kit.

Really looking forward to your next update.

I have made some good progress over the last couple of days. Wales These consist of 2 x 3mm wide planks per side. I pre bent the planks so they followed the curve of the hull using my heated plank bender. I added a taped line along the hull to show the required position of the wale. The planks were painted black (2 coats). I was undecided weather to use ca gel or Titebond original to secure the planks to the hull, or a combination of both. In the end I opted for using the Titebond original. I gave the inner surface of the plank to be fitted a thin coating of the Titebond and placed it in position. The glue has a very quick grip action and within a minute or two I was happy the plank was attached to the hull. I repeated the process for the other wale planks. Once this was complete I painted the upper part of the stem post black and also added the 2 x horseshoe and 2 x fish plates using the Klear polish method. I have not, as yet, added the PE draught markings. Upper Stern Counter I added the inner details to the inner face of the upper stern counter namely the 2 x stern transom knees and the 4 x inner supports. I did ensure the cleat would fit in the slot provided on two of the inner supports prior to gluing them in place. I also fitted the 2 x step blocks for the mizzen mast. Rough Tree Rail The rough tree rail sits above the stern capping rail. There are slots in both the stern capping and rough tree rails for the supports and timber heads. I also fitted the stern counter timber. Main Sail Boom Cradles The 2 cradles were fitted either side of the upper stern counter pattern. Catheads and Hawse Hole Post I added the PE parts to the catheads, using the Klear polish method. The cappings were trimmed to allow both catheads top sit flush with the inner bulwarks. Once I was reasonably happy with the fit they were glued in place. I then glued the 2 x hawse hole post in place. Finally the cathead knees were added to the bottom of each cathead. The cathead knee leading edge needs painting yellow orche

Just discovered your build log. You are building a great model. I am building the Alert and I have just finished adding the hull decorations.

Today I have added the hull decorations, lower 1mm hull rails and upper stern counter pattern. I started by adding the PE patterns. When I did a test fit of the lower stern counter pattern decorations there seemed to be a problem with the PE parts as can be seen in the photo below. Thankfully when I showed Chris the picture he quickly pointed out that I had positioned the PE parts upside down. I sometimes wonder I how manage to get through the day unscathed.😂 I decided to use the method recommended by James Hatch for securing the PE hull decoration parts, which is to use Klear polish. I had tried and failed with this method when building the Duchess Of Kingston. Thanks to James for taking the time to explain the method to me yesterday once again and this time I had no problem using the Klear method. The PE part was positioned on the hull and then, using a small paint brush, the edges of the PE part were coated with the polish. The brushed on polish will then work its way under the PE part. Once all the PE parts were fitted and the polish had fully dried a second coat of polish was added over the top and allowed to dry. Next I added the 1mm rails which sits below the hull decorations. I painted the rails black before they were fitted. I used Titebond Original to secure the rails to the hull with a series of clamps to hold the rails in place until the glue had gripped and started to cure. I then added the transom rails to the lower and upper stern counter panels. After that I secured the PE decorations to both the lower and upper stern counter patterns, using the Klear method. Once everything had dried I glued the upper stern counter pattern to the hull using Titebond Original. The lower and upper stern counter patterns. The two lower transom parts needs some more yellow ochre on the upper edges. The upper stern counter pattern. The paint work needs a tidy up in a couple of places. There is some additional wooden parts to add. Bow section hull decoration Stern area hull decorations Midships hull decorations Midships hull decorations Rear Midships hull decorations

I totally agree. It will look even better when the decorations have been fitted

Time for a quick update on my progress to date. I started by taping and and painted the upper outer bulwarks blue. As can be seen in the next photo I also painted the lower stern counter blue The gunwales had been cut to size and painted black. I used Titebond original to secure the gunwales. I applied a thin coat of Titebond to the top edge of the bulwarks. I also brushed a thin coat on the underside of the gunwales. Each gunwale was fitted in turn and I did my best to ensure they sat centrally with a slight overhang on both the inner and outer bulwark edges. Next I pained the stern transom pattern, blue on the outer edge and red / black on the inner edge. Outer edge Inner edge Moving swiftly on the hull decorations were cleaned in acetone and then soapy water. I then sprayed two thin coats of etch primer (Jenolite) Once the primer had dried I painted the parts. I used copper paint for the horseshoe, fishplate and draught markings and gold paint for the hull decorations as I think it will look better the yellow ochre. PE parts painted and left to dry Fishplate and horseshoe painted copper Finally I painted all the other hull parts, such as the catheads and timber heads.

Thanks, I think the tape guidelines really helped with this task to get the neat finish.

Uwe Many thanks. It turned out to be a much easier job than I was expecting. The key I have always found is preparation.

Sometimes when building these models you get a nice surprise. Today I added the gun port cut-outs. This was a task I was dreading for many reasons but it turned out to be a very simple and trouble free task. The gunwales were marked with the position of the gun ports. It did not take me long to mark these positions on the hull. Next the gun wales were cut to size. I then marked out the position of the gun port using some tape. The gun wales were used to double check the position of the taped area. Once I was happy I used a razor saw to make both vertical cuts. With the exception of the bow cut-out, all gun ports were cut to a depth of 4mm, which matched the width of the top plank (both for inner and outer bulwarks). I used a craft knife to make the vertical cut along the joint line between the first two planks. Therefore it took very little effort to make a clean cut and the resultant gun port opening required very little sanding. The picture below shows a taped gun port during the cutting process. Once all the gun ports had been cut out I painted all the edges ochre red. I thought it would be good to dry fit all the deck items for the photoshoot. This is a close up of a gun port I like this picture of the deck items A different view of the deck items I have also painted the gunwales black so they are ready to be glued in position in the morning.

Thanks Uwe for your kind comments. With regard to the gun ports I plan to use my razor saw to cut the depth. I will probably then use a craft knife to remove the material. With the exception of the first gun port which is 6mm deep all the others are 4mm deep which is same depth as the top plank so it should be an easy task.

I have made more progress this afternoon and evening with adding the inner bulwark planking. The left and right lower planks were dipped in water for a few seconds then they were clamped in position. I then clamped the second upper dampened plank in position. Finally I added the tapered bow and stern third planks. Once the planks had dried, retaining the curve, I applied a very thin coat of polyurethane varnish to each plank and then, once that coating had dried, I painted the planks with two coats of red ochre. Once the paint had dried, using Titebond Original, the planks were glued in place. I now just need to trim away any excess plank material along the top edge and to plank the front face of the step between the lower and upper deck. The next job will be to cut the gun port openings

Thanks Derek, I took my time with plenty of sanding (and filling) between paint layers. I am really pleased with the end result.

It has been an interesting morning in the shipyard today. I started by giving the unpainted part of the hull a very light sanding in a few areas to remove some unwanted pencil marks. I am really pleased with how the hull now looks, after adding the white paint below the waterline. Forging ahead I then removed the bulkhead tabs and filed the stubs flush with the deck. I also sanded the inner bulwarks smooth removing any residual glue. In the photo below the 6 x stern tabs are still to be removed With all the tabs removed I then proceeded to test fit the two laser cut deck parts. They were both almost a perfect fit. I just had to sand a couple of edges to ensure the decks would lay flat on their respective false decks. The next task will be to fit and paint the inner bulwark planks, however before doing this I thought it would be fun to add the previously built deck items. The deck pumps are sitting very proud as I did wish to force them in position as the pump shafts will require a little bit of sanding. I will also paint the rear hatch red ochre to match the rest of the deck fittings. I quite like the black and white version

That is praise indeed😁. However I am still in awe of your skills and speed.

As I finally decided I was happy with how the white painted hull (below the waterline) looked I took the plunge this evening (while watching tv) to remove the masking tape. As the upper tape layers were being removed I was a tad anxious to see if there would be any paint bled.😬 As the final waterline tape layer was removed I was very relieved to note there was no bled. I really like the sharp lines along the waterline and I am very pleased with the end result. 😁 I plan to give the hull a very light sanding above the waterline to remove some unwanted pencil marks as I did initially make a positional error with the initial waterline marking attempt. A nice side picture of the painted hull There is a little bit of work required on a plank half way up the stern counter pattern. I do have plenty of sawdust left over to fill the gap. Bow area

Thanks for you kind comments. I liked the coppering finish on my Speedy and Victory, the do look great when done. I liked the grey paint in my Yamato and white paint on my Duchess of Kingston.

I now believe I have completed the painting the hull white below the waterline. When I look closely at the hull there are still some very small "potholes" visible . I know I could continue to fill, sand and paint the hull to eliminate these few remaining "potholes" but I am not sure if it will be worth the time and effort required as I think these "potholes" actually add some character to the build therefore I am tempted to leave them. I have attached a couple of pictures which shows how the hull now looks. Once I have finally decided to move on with the build with the hull as is I will remove the tape. Hopefully there will not have been too much paint bled. Starboard Side Port Side Arial view Arial View