rybakov

The breastrail which was one of those in between projects I've been working on is finished. It looks pretty straight forward, but the six columns required some time to shape. Luckily the laser cut side gave me the shape that needed to be duplicated on the adjacent side.

Mike

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hello, no the workers are busy at the yard 😉 
and after fine tuning the rails for some hours, I decided that it's ok. And that is the result


I would say, here would nobody would have an easy seat. So the seat of ease has to be in front of the round house and I have to change the decoration there.

I didn't realize that it's been almost a month since my last update. Actually I've been working on the ships wheel, binnacle, QD rail, etc., as the mood strikes. Kinda gives me time to think about my next move on making a specific part.
 
Getting started on the QD rail proved to be finicky when I tried to add too many parts at once. My only suggestion is that however you go about it, don't do that. I ended up only adding and securing the pieces that I felt would would form the foundation for the remaining pieces.
 
Every timberhead and post that goes on the rail should be set vertical. Everything was pre-painted beforehand.
 
The two sections are ready to accept the remaining parts. I can move either one forward or aft while setting up the post, etc.

 
Ofelia, my fiancee, shows how to use a short stick to establish the proper angle for the posts. The stick is placed along the two upper moldings and the top outside edge of the post. Before the glue sets it's easy enough to tweak the post.

As of today. .

Mike

I finally managed to get the companionway on the ship. The uprights were pinned with 24 gauge wire to the coaming. The four long rails were pinned to the uprights by turning a tiny round end into the rails with the Dremel. Holes were drilled equidistant into the uprights to accept the rail pins.

 

 
Mike

Thank you, Michael and Gray, and also all the others for your likes.
The next thing to do should had be, painting the bulwark. But then arose the question, where are the other seats of ease? So I decided first to build the main-headrail. With build in the rail I could see where to build the seats of ease. At least not at the side of the round houses. There is not enough space for them. So I think in front of them.

 

 
That is the stand of work yesterday, and I'm not ready with them. Today I cleaned up my winter garden, and tomorrow the windows in the house are my goal. So, at the moment there is not very much activity at the shipyard 😉

The painting of the guns is finally finished. On the computer screen they appear very blue, they are a little greener in reality. Taking advantage of having all the guns painted, I did a little simulation... 110 guns is a lot of guns ! Of course they are balanced on the sill of the portholes so they are more prominent than they should be. (and the three on the forecastle are missing)
I can now continue the construction of the hull.

 
 

These window banks are incredibly labor-intensive, but the process of making them has been very enjoyable for me.  What I am doing, here, essentially mirrors what Tanneron did for the sterns of his models.  The damaged stern of L’Agreable illustrates how his windows are all pierced into one plate, as seen with the lower bank of windows:
 

 
Considering the density of detail in such a small space, this method seems far easier than framing each individual window.  Getting all of the elements (window frames and pilasters to flow harmoniously would, otherwise be quite difficult.
 
As I have done previously, I add window backstops to the bulkheads as added insurance that the windows can’t drop out of their frames, if the CA bonds should ever fail:
 

 
I remain indebted to Druxey for showing me how to make really good acetate windows by simply scribing the mullions into the acetate, and then filling those engravings with medium grey acrylic paint:
 

 
It really is simple and it just looks so much better than anything else, at scale.
 
Of course, I will next plank-in beneath the windows, but I am pleased with how the stern is rising:
 

 
One detail that isn’t so apparent now, but will become so after planking, is the chamfer I filed into the door sides; this chamfer will create a shadow relief that will more clearly delineate the door opening.  For the door handles, I recycled a pair of my frieze scrolls, which had the right shape and were sized closely enough.
 
The round-up really helps to minimize the warped geometry of my stern:
 

 
At this stage, it is becoming more apparent how the increase in hull-width has established a more ship-like impression of a stable gun platform:
 

 
This is quite a difference from the stock kit.
 
So, I will plank and paint beneath the windows, install the balcony bulwark, and create the cap-rail for the balcony bulwarks. I will then take a break from the stern so that I can focus on finishing certain details.
 
I need to paint and install the starboard spirketting on the main deck.  The f’ocsle beam needs re-touching, where I installed the moulding.  The starboard bulwark joint needs to be puttied and painted.  I need to fit, paint and install the quarter deck beam.  Then, I need to retouch the exterior joint for the starboard aft bulwark.  Finally, I need to install the starboard channels and fit all of the buttressing knees.
 
When all of that is ship-shape, I will return to the stern.  One fun thing to make are the pass-through archways that support the figures of Africa and the Americas:
 

 
On the back-burner of my mind, I’ve been thinking about how best to make up this piece so that I can represent the delicate acanthus carvings.  I think I know what to do now.  The most important thing is getting the scale and shape of the opening right.
 
Following that, I’ll tackle the third level of stern lights.
 
Thank you for your interest, your likes and comments, and for looking in!

Hello, and thank you Nils
There was not very much activity at the shipyard the last weeks, but I managed to build all the remaining sheaves for the ship and some ornaments for the bulkhead. Now the artist could come 😟
 

 

Hello,
thanks to everyone else for your interest.
 
What is the saying?
Little by little the bird builds its nest ...😁

So it goes on here with small steps ... ratline for ratline ... 
 
Continuation: ratlines for the topmast shrouds - Enfléchures
The last stage for the installation of the ratlines (ø 0.25 mm) was initiated, namely with the final fixing of the lanyards of the starboard side topmast shrouds.
On the following picture I have marked the corresponding place with an arrow, where work is going on at the moment.


The next picture shows the fixing of a taljereep with the tweezers.


After fixing the lanyards of the topmast shrouds, the knotting of the ratlines can be started in the way already described several times.
To be continued ... 
 

@jdbondy
@Dziadeczek
Hello,
Thank you for the positive reaction to my post.
Thanks also to all the others for the LIKES.
 
Hello Thoma,
the best way to answer your question is to show you this picture.

I hope that I have answered your question in an understandable way.
 

@albert
@mbp521
Hello,
thanks for your nice comments, and all the others for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Ratlines for the fore topmast shrouds - Enfléchures 
In the meantime, I have started working on the port side ratlines (ø 0.25 mm) of the fore topmast shrouds. These are already about three quarters made, as can be seen in the following pictures.

 

      
On the last picture I show again how the simplified splice for binding the ratlines to the outer shrouds is made step by step. For lifting and inserting the end of the rope twice between the strands, I use an appropriately prepared cannula, as already reported and shown.

 
The end of the chapter -ratlines- is within reach.
To be continued ...
 

They also appear on the contemporary-build Louis Quinze model:
 

 

 
And actual pinrails on Frolich’s L’Ambiteaux:
 

Look at the area referenced by the red arrow;  there are pins between the sheer railing and the top fighting cloth rail.
 
One last reference - the poop sheer of the Monarque appears to have pins:
 

Respectfully, I am more inclined to believe that the simple utility of belaying pins would have been universally understood much earlier than that.  They show up in this Van de Velde sketch of a Dutch warship, following a battle:
 

 

 
And another ship, where they are evident along the forecastle sheer rail.

I am glad to hear you are still modeling, Vic!
 
To be honest, I’m not sure about the question of belaying pins.  I don’t think the French employed pin rails, at this time (1670-1700), but I do think it likely that pins were used along the sheer rail, as Heller shows.  Then again, for his SP monograph, Lemineur does show pinrails.
 
He also shows them for his Le Francois of 1683, monograph:
 

Hello and thank you all,
today I made only some small repairs and give the rails a layer of clear lacquer. 
 

 

Hello,
so far the beakhead bulkhead is ready. Next the artist can come and paint the trophy bundles. But before that could start, a lot of brain storming has to be done. So, it may take some time
 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi photo.

My method for making the window plates is well-documented, earlier in the log, so I won’t go into great detail.  Some pictures:
 

 
I found it best to fit the rough blanks between the pilasters, first, before relieving the negative space panels.  This way, I could trace on the backside, the top and bottom edges of the top rail, thereby knowing just how thin to make the reliefs.
 

 

 
Once all of the panels were in, and I had also glued-in the central bell-flower ornament, I could begin modeling these reliefs:
 

 
It really doesn’t take much to give them a little shape and dimension.
 
I began framing in the bulkheads:
 

 
I like to glue-in positive stops, top and bottom, so that it is easier to glue-in the bulkheads and get them aligned exactly where they need to be.
 
Keen observers will note that the bulkheads do not align, neatly with the tops of the pilasters beneath them.  Instead, they fan out more towards the sides:
 

 
I considered whether to re-draw the plate, but determined that this would result in less pleasingly shaped and proportioned windows:
 
The discrepancy is a result of my decision to revise the tumblehome of the upper bulwarks.  The lower tier is based upon the more vertical tumblehome of my original drawing, so the pitch of the window stiles is less severe.
 
This middle tier simply follows the more pronounced pitch of the accentuated tumblehome.  In the end, the lower balcony railing will serve as a visual interrupter that minimizes this discrepancy.
 
I point all of this out to highlight just one of many imperfect compromises I have made, where I have deemed one aspect of the construction to carry more visual importance over another.  In this instance, the whole model is more ship-like with a more pinched tumblehome, and the windows have a pleasant shape and arc of camber.
 
Thank you for your likes and comments and continued interest in this project.  More to follow.

Hello,
today only a small update without many words. But with a question, did anywhere know if these little windows in the roundhouses had a pane?
 

 

 

 

Thank you very much for your messages ! 
Julia is growing up and will turn 1 year in a few days, it's been a very busy year between the family and the Covid but I could resume the work on the model a few days ago and I ended the third deck panels. I won't give up !
Thank you for your support, I really appreciate it !

 
 

Hello,
Druxey, that are the beams of the upper gun deck. 
 
Today we start with the round houses. A first lay out, and then the carpenters start working.
 

 

 
And here they are, at the moment a little over sized. That will we change tomorrow.
 

Hello,
Keith, then you are only nearly 5 years older then I'm. So, don't think so negativ. But when I think about Corona and the war in the Ukraine, you may be right.
 
The planking job of the bulwark was't so easy, but it's done. 😰 
 

 

 

 
Next are the round houses at the list of the shipwright. And there we have something unusual. They are not circular, and at the side view of the draught they are narrower to the bulkhead! At the draught for the 1745 establishment they are drawn circular and very small. The only other decks plan who shows them ist the Anson, and there the look like the one from the Tiger. So I think I build a mixture of this, narrower but not circular.