rybakov

Good morning.

Many thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Small update.
Production of the ropes and blocks.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some other parts for the first deck.

@Keith Black
Thanks for nice comment. Also many thanks for the LIKES.

Another small stage of the standing rigg of La Créole has been completed: the ratlines of the mizzen mast are finished.
The integration of the shrouded ladders and the signpost blocks is still missing.


In the meantime, a small detail needs to be clarified once again. The side davits for the "Petit Canoes" of the corvette were made of iron and were lifted with a topping lift. These were shorn by single blocks on the mizzen mast.
How these single blocks were attached to the eyes of the ring fitting on the mizzen mast still needs further clarification. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of the original model of the relevant area, where one can see more details. In the documents available to me I could not find anything meaningful about this either.


In this respect a question to the experts here in the forum: How could the fixing of the single block/lead block and the continuation have looked like, e.g. as shown below?

 


I would be very pleased if I could get answers or hints and suggestions. - I would be very grateful if you could send me your comments.
See you soon ...
 

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

Good morning and thank you all for the like. More photos.
grazie wefalck.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thank you all for the like, more photos.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Manufacture and assembly of the cannon barrel.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good morning and thank you all for the like, more photos.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

It has been a slow week of mixed results and some small progress.
 
Painting-in of the head timbers was going well enough.  Unfortunately, I over-estimated the blending capability of Van Dyke Brown oil paint to conceal the color-fills I made to the ventre-de-biche of the deadworks.
 
I thought I was being careful to feather-in the new color, yet because of the contrast of the original weathering, I still ended up with a clear line of demarcation:


This was after two applications of oil and wiping off the excess.
 
Part of the problem is that the original weathering is sealed under a clear top-coat, so I can no longer lighten or manipulate it.  I can only go selectively darker.  Toward that end, last night I began applying heavily thinned wash-coats of the oil paint, and have succeeded in eliminating the strong contrast. I didn’t take additional pictures, but the appearance is much improved.
 
At the moment, though, the color appears a bit mottled, as I was applying the color with light dappling touches, over and over again; a brushing motion only “washes” away the color you put down on the previous layer.
 
I then charged the chip-brush I’ve been using with un-diluted oil paint, and left that to semi-cure overnight.  My hope is that, this evening, the wash-coats I applied will be sufficiently durable that I can take light sweeping passes with the charged chip-brush to smooth the tone and blend back smoothly into the ship sides.  We shall see.
 
In preparation for building up the amortisement on the upper bulwarks, I coped together all of the individual parts, and this helped me feel better about the paint problem.

Thank you for looking in, and enjoy your weekend!

I've been looking at what happens to the free end of the ropes for the blocks etc I've been working on so far. Normally there'd be a coil to take up the surplus rope at the end. I've tried making a coil copying a technique used by others on MSW but it's pretty difficult if I'm making it out of the surplus rope at the free end. I think it's probably better to just make separate coils and attach them to make it look like they're part of the main rope.
 
Wrapping the free end around the end of a pen and gluing the coils together (later I had to remove the grey hair that had somehow got itself mixed up with the coil).
 
         
 
Then I added an extra bit of cord to simulate the bit that winds around the coil to keep it in shape. And a clothes-peg to hold it all together till the glue dried.
 
          
 
 
        
 
And the coil in place next to the oarsman in green. Note also the free end of the vang being held by the standing crewman. My understanding is that it would just lie there on the deck until the operation was over, then be coiled up properly.
 

 
And another bit of housework - the free ends of the robands and gaskets were sticking out at all angles - a combination of the springiness of the cotton thread and the presence of random dabs of the glue I used to hold them to the yard. They should be hanging down under gravity. So I've started glueing them in a "natural" position. The left-hand photo is "before", the right-hand isn't so much "after" as "during". The 5th and 7th ties from the end of the yard show the difference. A lot to do here - it'll take a while.
 
   

I've been having a few problems with the rigging - particularly with belaying points, but I'm making slow but steady progress. My original idea for the foretacks was to run each one to a turn around a "bollard" on the forecastle which acted as a fairlead, to a point aft of the mast so the yard could be pulled back behind the mast when tacking.
 

 

 
Only problem was - it wouldn't have worked (which I realised when I was in bed, where all one's best ideas arrive - usually at some ungodly hour of the morning). I had run the tack under the benches would have made it impossible to pull the yard back.
 
So I re-ran the tacks, still with a turn around the "bollard", but then outside the shrouds. (The clothes-peg is just holding the rope in place while the glue dries on the bollard.)
 
 

 

 

 
Fixed the "bitter end" around an upright of the pavesade aft of the mast, and tied off the free end to the pavesade rail nearby.
 
Then the vangs. One end of the port vang is fixed around an oarbench, the other to the rail of the pavesade. The starboard vang is still loose:
 

 
And both fore-vangs tied off:
 
      
 
Now for the after yard. I added the crewmen hauling up the yard:
 
  
 
Unfortunately the rope they're all holding just couldn't be a straight line due to the one of the guys standing on the hatch cover. In the real world they would have adjusted their grip to allow for that. Not so easy with carved figures . . . However, it's a small issue and I'm not going to bother about it. I know about it, and now you do as well - but I doubt anyone else will ever notice . . .
 
Here all the ropes for the yard are loose - bosun very unhappy.
 

 
So I put the fellow in yellow to work, holding the port tack so the yard doesn't swing around as it's raised. Sorry about the picture quality.
 

 
The other tack will be loose, as will the vangs, as the yard is in the process of being raised. 
 
Now I'm trying to work out how to produce a natural catenary curve in the loose ropes. Cotton thread is "springy" and doesn't naturally fall into such a curve. I'm experimenting with wetting the thread and with soaking it with a weak solution of PVA (white) glue. But if anyone can make suggestions or has been in the same position I'd be grateful for advice.
 
 
 

All the shields of the port side are in place. Check the sixteenth and seventeenth rowers, Boxbuilds!
 

 

 
And I've finally glued the xylokastra (wooden castles) into position.
 

Good morning and thank you all, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto

Manufacture and construction of the carriage
for the 36th cannon.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good morning.

Its always great to have friends that keep an open eye and give valuable hints. Special thanks go to @Morgan who helped me so much already and here came his updates. The bolster of the anchor lining was to be extended more to the front. Possibly to have the possibility for someone to stand there if the catting needed an action from there. And the small flap on top of the carronade. Most carronades had ports that were higher than the normal ones. As the solid bulwark was not high enough that was an easy way to protect the wood. Thank you tons Gary!
 

 
So the bolster needed a good base to adjust the height ...
 

 
... and the extension was fitted.
 

 
With a lil´bit of color it looks like it was already always there.
 

 
And the flap was an easy Task to be fittet 🙂
 

 
And then we took the chance to go and see some modeler mates ...
 

 
All the best, DAniel
 
For some reasons the pictures do not show ...
 😩  😩  😩 
[ edit: pictures rescued 🙂 ]
 
 

HI Mark,
 
No other blocks, it goes straight to the steering wheel.
On the second deck, the ropes pass through some kind of wardrobe, or should we say a wardrope.
On a more serious note, the biggest difference between a French an English  74 gun ship for the steering wheel; is the location:
the French installed it behind the mast, the English installed it in front of the mast, needing a much longer rope this way.

Buongiorno e grazie a tutti, altre foto.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto
 

Fabrication of the capstan from the first and second deck + installation of all the deck beams.
The easiest way to fabricate the curved deck beams perfectly parallel is to roughly cut the beams, sand the upper part, turn them upside down, and pass them under the drum sander.

photo 1     few words about Ebonizing which can be good ... or bad
photo 2    a letter from Boudriot explaining which lines are tarred and which ones are not. The line for the steering wheel is not tarred and few others.
photo 3    a drawing showing how the tiller is well maintained in his trajectory
 
 

With the autumnal weather, the motivation to do less popular work comes back,
even if they are supposed to have a meditative character, at least that's the opinion of some of my fellow modellers ...😁

 

Well as I mentioned before, I've re-jigged the blocks at the bottom of the shrouds. Naturally enough, since I was shortening the block assembly, the shrouds needed to be longer so I had to replace them. I was lucky enough that one shroud in each set could be re-used, and that I seemed to have enough dyed cord to make the rest. Until the last moment, when I discovered I was one shroud short!
 
The existing shrouds are darkened to look like tarred cordage. I dyed another lot of cord, having to re-insert it into the dye bath three times to get the colour to match . Of course as soon as I'd finished, I discovered I actually had just enough of the old cord to do all the shrouds after all. Ah, well, at least I've got some nice dark cord that I can use for other things. Here is the ship with shrouds undone and incidentally the yards lowered to allow new shrouds to be installed. The bosun is going to be in big trouble from the captain for that horrible raffle on deck.
 

 
 Here is the new, shorter, block arrangement. (Sorry about the vagueness of the photos - I don't know what went wrong the day I took them). I'd originally put cleats inside the hull walls to belay the downhauls - I'd used modern cleats because none have been found in archaeology but I really wasn't happy with them. Then when it came to it I found it was much easier and probably more sensible to belay them to the oarbenches. At least as strongly fixed as a cleat and much more convenient to use. You'll note small clothes-pegs hanging from the sides of the ship - they're holding the downhauls in tension while the glue dries. After that I removed the pegs and tied off the downhauls. That raffle of unsecured ropes is getting gradually less. The bosun will be happy.
 
  
 
    
 
After I'd replaced the shrouds my lovely (and observant) wife, all unsuspecting, pointed out that the after yard was hoisted inside the shrouds (instead of outside where it should have been). Oops. So I had to loosen off the tacks which I'd temporarily tied up, undo the toggle that held the yard to the halyard, and take the halyard off and re-set it outside the shrouds. I'm very glad she noticed it. It would have been murder to fix it later in the build.  
 
And here is the after yard in its correct place - you can see the toggle which joins the halyard to the yard itself, as well as the trozza (truss) that holds the yard to the mast.
 
  
 
 
 

 
  
 
 

 
The guy lying on the deck isn't dead. He's "in storage" - when the four guys are put in place hauling up the yard he'll be holding the tack to keep the yard under control.
 
To provide belaying points for the ropes of the after lateen sail (tacks and vangs) I need to install the xylokastra (wooden castles). But first I have to add the shields to the pavesade - the castles would make it impossible to reach in and tie off the ropes holding the shields on.
 
In an earlier post I showed the ochanos (straps) at the back of the shield. To hold each shield in place I tied a piece of cotton sewing thread (to resemble rope, same as I've been using for the rigging) through the ochanos and around the railing and each upright of the pavesade, then added a dab of glue to make it permanent. That holds it fairly securely, though I may also glue the bottoms of the shields in place to stop them from flapping around.
 
Here are the shields about half-way installed on the starboard side:
 

 

 
And here's the starboard side complete.
 

 

 
 
It's nice after having painted all these shields some months ago and having had them in storage all this time, to finally be able to put them in place. I'm pretty happy with the way they look. Certainly makes the ship look more colourful.
 

Bread oven
 
without the interior of the oven with bricks.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

@garyshipwright
Hello,
I thank you for the recognition. 
Of course I also thank you for the many LIKES. Both motivate and give me confidence to continue.
 
Moques de conduits: Mizzenmast
I almost forgot about them, the signposts blocks for the mizzen masts: