rybakov

Hello,
I continue with my report as follows.
For the Ratlines, I bought japanese silk, which is very thin.

On the next picture are thin ropes of this silk 2 x 3 with a diameter of approx. 0.35 mm can be seen. The thick rope is 1.15 mm thick, which corresponds to the thickness of the shrouds.
Before I do the ratlines on the model, I test on a device.





 
 

Painting the hull below the waterline black to represent pitch. Two coats of enamel - more a charcoal than a pure black, which I think would look wrong.
   
It'll take two days for the paint dry properly, then I'll start on the yellow for the wales, "tail" and other trim.
 
Steven

" LE CENTAURE 1782" Scale 1/36
 
April 2015 I started with the construction of the model and soon realized,
"that is a big think".
I wanted to present it as a cross-section model with complete interior design,
in the style of my model  BONHOMME RICHARD 1779.
On some whim I finished the construction Oktober 2016,
all nicely packed and mothballed.
I still want to show the images of the construction protocol,
and have the hope that it will eventually be built further.
The sequence of images extends over a period of eighteen month
in the time-lapse mode.
 
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

Hello Karl, Thomas and Nils,
thank you for your nice words,
also thanks for the many likes.
 
Here ist a short update.
On the pictures you can see the mizen burton tackle:

A short update:

 

@John Allen
Thank you for your appreciation, and all the others for the many LIKES.

Here is an update on how to make the main and fore takle.
The fixing of the eye bolts on the channels was done with an iron wedge that goes through the bolt. Here is the implementation in model making.

Quelle: http://jbriggers.se/projects/






 

The shrouds of the La Creole for the mizzenmast had a diameter of 58 mm, which corresponds to a diameter of 1.2 mm on a scale of 1:48. The foremost shrouds were not served in this case.
Thus I have set all shrouds so far.
Here are a few pictures.



Finally, a picture of the current state of construction.

 
 

Finally got some paint that is the colour I wanted to use for the dromon's hull - basically a red ochre, which would be the source of the tint in red paint at the time . I'm using enamel (Humbrol) because I've found that a tiny bit of PVA glue under acrylic paint seems to mess up the finish. This is the first coat.

  
The trim will be yellow ochre, and the bottom will be black (the colour of pitch). Normally Byzantine ships are shown as black all over in contemporary pictures, but the Emperor's ship is shown as red with yellow trim. I haven't decided yet whether to paint the sternpost and "tail" yellow or red. 
 
Once the painting is all done, I can put the lower oars into place and then finish off the deck (I need it open for the time being so I can see where to glue the oars). And then I can put all the deck items in place that I've been holding off from, add the upper oarbenches and the side castles and the awning at the poop, insert the masts etc etc.
 
Steven
 
 

For this step, an alignment rod is use to make sure all the pillars are all on the same line of alignment.
This is the easier way.
Trying to align by eye is  very difficult mainly because the eye does not have direct access.

Kieth,
 
I also notice the wheel chocks. Some were used when the cannon was secured for stowage, and others were used during loading to prevent the gun from moving.
 
In the drawing of the stowed gun it appears to me that the training tackle was hooked to a rope that was looped around the cascobel and the other end was hooked to a ring bolt on the bulwark above the gun. Then the tackle was pulled tight to push the gun against the bulwark. The gun tackles and breeching ropes were siezed to take up slack and hold the gun in place. But I have seen other drawings showing different methods of securing the gun. My guess is that it might have been done differently on each ship, depending upon the type of gun, configuration of the gun port and bulwark (if any) and other features peculiar to the ship and crew.
 
When I was in the Navy the ships changed all the time, especially the small details. If the Ship's Bosun decided he needed another cleat or eye he called the engineers and they brought up a torch and added the new piece. In the yards a five pound tin of coffee could buy quite a few unauthorized things! On the old wooden ships you only needed to ask the carpenter. And the Captains had a habit of customizing the configuration of major things like masts and spars to suit their whims. If it isn't too absurd, just about anything you can model has a chance of being "prototypical."

Hello,
@jose_b and @Wishmaster
thank you very much for your motivating comments. Thanks also to the others for the lot LIKES.

Some time ago, I already reported on the production of the burton pendants. These had to be placed before attaching the shrouds.
Meanwhile I made the fore tackles. These consist of heavy double blocks, for example, to lift heavy loads or to support the rigging, and other.

The las Picture Shows how the fore tackle is hooked to the channel.

 

Two other small decorations that complete the stern:

Thanks everyone for the likes and comments. Messis, that's a cat food container . . . 
 
Here's the starboard stringer nearing completion - I had to make it thinner at the end to cope with the extreme curve at the tail.

 
And here's the port stringer attached at the forecastle
 
And further along the hull
 
 And here's the scarph joint
  
 
And the curve at the stern for both stringers

 
Steven

Hello,
I would like to thank you very much for liking my work. Also many thanks for the many LIKES.

The report continues with the fore stay and preventer fore stay.
A special feature is the attachment to the bowsprit with leather collars.

Here are the bilge pumps. These were made from single logs (hence their other name:  elm tree pumps) which are reamed along their length to accept a simple leather basket .
At this period (c 13) the pump was lifted by brute strength but later as in this picture of the Wasa bilge pump, a lever was fitted. Note how the log has been left au naturel and not chamfered as I have done

Cheerio
Dick

And one more piece finished 🙂
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The material of the guns is still in discussion. Did the Vici n 1782 still have brass guns - as Bugler and McKay see as a possibility - or did she have already iron ones. As discussed before, I will keep you updated.
 
So that was no. 2 out of four being ready now. Approx. 1780 and 1920 are done, 1805 and 2018 still to follow.
 

 
Cheers, dafi

Thank you for the likes.
Next I made the mizzen stay.

two others small decorations:

Once the irons being fixed one can see the difference in V1 to the actual version. As the first build just developed without further planing, it was not possible to fix all the irons properly as for the ports, so it was good to have a fall back version and to start anew 🙂
 

 

 
An after all this fiddling with the small tiny chain links it was good to fix something bigger in a decent size ...
 

 
... the port for the main tack, the batten for the channel board being fixed, some ringbolts to straighten the shrouds and the missing port lids ...
 

 
... splashed some paint ...
 

 

 
... the side half door lids with the painted frieze ...
 

 

 
... and the very elegant conduct of the lifting halliard of the foremost gun port lid 🙂
 

 

 
XXXDAn

Good Morning All;
 
I can understand Mac's thinking, but there is no need to get slack in the cable. The procedure was to make the inboard end of the cable fast to the bitts before the anchor was let go. The anchor would then hit the bottom, and the ship would be allowed to fall off until brought up by the cable becoming taut. Standard practice was for the cable used to be be three times the depth of water in length. 
 
That the cable was given a half-turn around the top of the bitt pin and then a similar turn, in the opposite direction, around the end of the cross-piece is shown in various contemporary illustrations. The cross piece for a third-rate 74 was around 18" square. The anchor cable for a third-rate was around 7" in diameter.  For a first-rate it was between 7" & 8" in diameter, and in 1745 a ship of this rate would have carried 9 different cables of varying lengths for its largest anchors. A third-rate, along with most other rates, carried 7 cables, most of them about 100 fathoms (600 feet) long. They could be joined to allow anchoring in water over 200 feet deep.
 
Mac is right to mention the expense. The Royal Navy, and presumably other Navies, placed a high value on anchors and cables, which were very expensive. There are regular mentions in the archives of dockyard personnel, or crew members, selling the cut-off ends of cables. When caught, they would be severely punished. It is hard not to feel sympathy for some of them, though, a common (and very true) defence being that they had not been paid for two or three years, and their wife and children were starving.
 
A consequence of this high value was that anyone who salvaged an anchor, or anchor and cable, was well-rewarded. The Navy would sometimes commission a non-Navy vessel to go and sweep an area where a ship or ships were known to have left anchors and cables.
 
Below is a page from Darcy Lever's 'Young Sea-Officer's Sheet Anchor' (from Dover Books) showing the bitts, cable and stoppers (the cable is shown much thinner than in reality, and the knees to the bitts are much too short in both length and height) Note that the stoppers are used on the aft side of the bitts.

 
All the best,
 
Mark P

Slow progress ...
 
Next came the frieze:
 
3 colors ...
 

 
... first the middle one ... 
 

 
... then into darkness they dwell ...
 

 
... then come the highlights ...
 

 
... gonna be fine enough 🙂
 
The same way the cherub was done.
 

 
Then tried some shading for the bronze guns.
 

 
The huibrol bronze was the first test. Some brown already helps a lot 🙂
 

 
From the museums one knows green or polished in brass-look. But how did they look in real life when in use?
 

 
Questionmarks!!!
 
XXXDAn
 

Good Evening all;
 
Ring bolts were provided behind each gun in the deck, usually set into either a deck beam (the structure of English warships was that a gun-deck beam was always sited directly below the centre of each port) although 17th century ships had a longitudinal carling close to the centre line each side, and the ring-bolt was set into this, at its junction with the deck beam, presumably passing through both. The train tackle was not used to run in the gun during battle (although it presumably was during some types of gun exercises) as the recoil of the gun would bring the gun back inboard as far as the breeching would allow.
 
The train tackle was used to prevent the gun running back out during re-loading. In the earlier periods, guns were only issued with two tackles, and it was presumably necessary to un-hitch one of the two gun-tackles to use behind the gun for a train-tackle.
 
Concerning stoppers, I believe that there might be some confusion with 'nippers'. The ship's anchor cable, being very large diameter and stiff as a result, was not passed around the capstan. Instead an endless loop of rope was passed around the capstan, similar to the way of connecting the ship's wheel, but with the other end passing through a large block in the bows (17th century practice was a little different, but followed the same principle) and this moving rope was temporarily tied or 'nipped' to the main anchor cable with short lengths of rope to enable the movement of the rope to be transmitted to the cable. As the rope came close to the capstan, the nippers were untied, and taken back to the bows to repeat the operation. This was normally an operation carried out by the ship's boys, hence a common term for boys being 'nipper'.
 
Stoppers were used once the anchor had been 'let go', and was on the sea bed. The main strain of the anchor cable was taken by passing it once around the end of the riding bitts. However, as it was not unknown for bitts to break under the repeated straining of a ship riding at anchor in rough weather, stoppers were used as a back-up and to take some of the strain. In the sailing navy these were short lengths of rope made fast to ring-bolts in the deck, and lashed to the anchor cable. Normally three or four were used for each cable. These were left in place until it was time to raise the anchor.
 
I have not seen additional ring-bolts fitted for stoppers, and the train tackles were only rigged when the guns were in use, so there would seem to be no problem with a ring-bolt serving a dual purpose.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P
 
 

Working on the chain pump.
 
Here's the sketch I did (to the same scale as the model) to work out the sizes:

Starting on the frame - top of the "box"

 
And the bottom frame, plus the sides:

Top frame attached to the side pieces - note the locating "pins" at the ends of the side pieces, to insert into the deck.

I put the pins into a piece of styrene foam to simulate the deck so the bottom frame could be at the right level.

Cardboard semicircles to act as backing for the planking on the covers for the drive wheels:

Glued to the sheet of wood with planks sliced into it.

The planked side pieces cut out.

And the holes for the axles added.

More to come.
 
Steven

Hello,
Thank you for your interest and the LIKES.

Here I show the continuation of the work for the mainstay and the main preventer stay (Grand ètai et faux ètai grand mât).
First of all historical drawings for the execution of the detial can be seen.

Quelle: Manuel du Gabier 1875



Quelle: Takelung und Ankerkunde – Freiher von Sterneck 1873
 
Afterward you will see the realization for the model.

Hello,
many thanks for the comments and the LIKES !
It Always makes me  happy.

In the meantime I have completed the shrouds of the mainmast so far. They are lashed tight only when the stays are installed.

The time I prepare the mainstay and the main preventer stay.


 
The stays were all cable laid and it is wormed, as can be seen.

Quelle: Musée de la Marine Paris – La Crèole

Source: Musée de la Marine Paris – La Crèole
 
Around 1830 the stay mouse disappeared. The stays split into two parts which each had an eye for a lashing.

Source: Atlas du Genie maritime

The mainstay and main preventer stay penetrated the foredeck and was fastened under it with strong eye bolts. These had iron counter-plates on the outside of the hull.
 

Source: Musée de la Marine Paris – La Crèole

Source: Musée de la Marine Paris – La Crèo