rybakov

Bottles is what the French word for what we call quarter galleries translates as.  I've fallen into that rabbit hole myself on French ships.

Sometimes I am stupid ...
 
I had already described the initial situation a long time ago. The bits of the kit were "a bit" strange in their shape. Thereupon I had fiddled new ones ...
 

 
... and because I need some of them for different tasks, I casted them. A complicated mold with two-component silicone putty inlets - top tec
 
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The other day, I noticed that the bits are still pretty low, even though I had my scale mate with me when I took the photos ...
 
... grrrrr...
 
Here again the summary:
 
Kit
 

 

 
Version 1 anno 2016:
 

 

 
So consulted the McKay and printed the parts in these dimensions.
 

 

 
And since I want to be a model builder, i tinkered around with the printed parts, and got this 🙂
 

 

 
For the belaying pins I made a template to cut to length, with wire feed from the left, and catch basket underneath, goes smooth and
quickly and well cut to 6 mm.
 

 

 
Then a montage holder with through holes - needed print wise - taped with mirror tape to a wooden stick and filled with the cut offs.
 

 
The mirror tape actually secures the wire pieces against falling out. After that I leveled the lengths a bit ...
 

 
... it looks like this:
 

 
Then prepared the pin head. White glue in cup 1, water in cup 2 and the mixture in cup 3. And for that the brush does not dry out when the pin is left to dry, it is brought to the right height with a clothes peg so that its tip is in the water.
 

 
Then the glue is applied in several layers on both sides of the head. The thinner the glue, and the more layers there are, the more uniform the result. So do not make the first layers with a too thick glue-water mixture! And always let it dry befor the next touch up. That's why I use the white glue "express" version, so that work can proceed quickly.
 

 
In my case it was 6 to 8 layers. When the head has the right size and form, let it dry well and paint it 🙂
 

 
Then paint the bit itself with the base color ...
 

 
... and keep the holes open.
 
After that I like to put thinned ink in all the inside edges, it adds depth. Next a light wood color on all scuffed edges and finally some white brushing on all outside edges, it just always gives a good look.
Then inserted the pins, secured with white glue - which dries transparent - level the top side, bring it to a leveled length on the underneath side where necessary to adjusted the lengths and added the color.
And what used to look like this ...
 

 
... then becomes like this. So even printed parts need a lot of love and affection from a tender modeler's hand 😉
 

 
XXXDAn

And here we go again. 
 
Short positional test of the guns in interaction with the capstan.
 
Guns run out ...
 

 
... stowed ...
 

 
... cleared out of the radius of the capstan bars.
 

 
The next stages of construction will require the missing deck beams. Here is the status. The missing beams give a spaciousness and light that never existed.
 

 
Beams pre-bent in a template. Supports prepared. Yes, you might be amazed, actually these are parts of the kit 😉
 

 
Because of the main mast, no deck beam can be set at this point. Therefor, two strong carling bridge the gap and also give guidance to the mast. But alas, there's my double-deck pump in the way. This mystery, the haunting specter of all plans between 1790 and 1860.***
 
*** 
 
 
 
Either the mast does not fit through ...
 

 
... or they are too far apart.
 

 
A quick look at the model of the Princess Royal reveals that the pump cases are built around the carlings, so one inner tube lies to the left and one to the right of the carling. 
 

 
So pump torn out, a through hole was dug into the case, carling fitted.
 

 
A cotton pad was put as dirt trap underneath and the groove for the carling was carved.
 

 
And done.
 

 
XXXDAn

Hello and many thanks for your likes
today a small update. I started with the scrolls for the hansing pieces. I'm not so happy with the result. May be tomorrow it looked better when the paint has dried, or I make an other one. This piece broke into 3 pieces. 
 
That is the largest match I have 😇
 

 

When I built a Polacre, I made some research on the subject, since was a scratch build model.
Below there is a scheme that explain better than many words how where managed the latin sails.
Hope it clarified all of your doubts! 😀

Hello,
a small update, the 4th layer of paint. That is the second layer with the final color. I removed the masking tape from the wales, so that all the paint could dry evenly. After that and may be a little sanding here and there, comes then the I hope last layer. I paint at the moment the port lids. 
 

The bottles:

 

 

 

 

 

@captain_hook
@bruce d
Thank you very much for your nice comments and to all the others for the many LIKES.
 
In the meantime I am already working on the mizzen topmast shrouds. There the dead eyes have a diameter of only 2.3 m. 

 

 

Another small update. In between the riveting and framing I have been whittling away at the oars. Now the full set of 16 is ready.

Thanks @druxey.
 
I have continued with the frames, and have added at least one pair of tree nails to each of them to make sure that they stay in place.

@Jorge Diaz O
Thank you very much for your positive comment. Also many thanks to all for the many LIKES.
 
In the meantime I have also finished the fore topmast shrouds (ø 0.67 mm). The diameter of the dead eyes is ø 3.1 mm. 

 

 

Continuation 
 
 

 

 

 
 
Pawel

A sudden rush of “affordable” housing opportunity has slowed me down considerably, this past week, but I have managed to make some progress.
 

 
I’ve closed-in the port side quarter gallery.  In the process, I left a small CA fingerprint on one of my glass panes.  It isn’t terrible, but its presence annoys me.  I haven’t tried acetone for fear that it will mar the acetate.  Isopropyl had no effect after a half-hour of effort.  Does anyone have any experience with using this product from BSI on plastic?
 
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-161-Debonder/dp/B0000DD1QS/ref=asc_df_B0000DD1QS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198100706044&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3451084920448221665&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9067609&hvtargid=pla-379516931894&psc=1
 
If need be, I can live with the blemish, but I would rather remove it.  Any other ideas?
 
Otherwise, I’ve been coping together the parts for the wrapping balcony:
 


 

 
After I secure these, there are planking overlays that complete the illusion, while also providing a glue-lip for the balcony rail.
 

 
As they are really quite good, I still plan to use the stock Four Seasons figures:
 

 
They will require some delicate chiropractic surgery in order to reach the new geometric relationship between the lower false balcony and the wrapping middle balcony.
 

 
I’m not sure yet how I will go about this, but I have a spare set, in case I mess up.
 
I am debating placing corbel support beneath the outermost extension of the walk.  It doesn’t make sense to me that there wouldn’t be additional support, here.  
 
My walk is not quite as deep as the stock kit part; I recognized that there would be limitations to how far I could stretch the Four Seasons figures, so I made the walk a little more shallow.  The unintended result of that, though, is that even the smaller of the stock corbels are too big for here:
 

 
It is not a big deal, though, as I would only have to make one pair from scratch.
 
Today, I was near the WarHammer shop, so I picked up a vibrant silver metallic and a plant-green wash coat.
 

 
My idea is to incorporate silver leaf into the build, in select spaces, and to even use a faint green over-wash, on top of the silver.  One possible application for this might be the acanthus-flanked monogram escutcheons between the main deck guns; I’ll experiment with greened silver on the acanthus branches.  Maybe it will look terrible, but it might be interesting.  I took the idea from the elaborately painted and gilt interior of St. Francis de Sales church on East 96th Street.
 
In other activities, I picked up what is actually the Grand Chaloupe from my father’s house, this past weekend.  It is significantly larger than the one I did earlier.  I am detailing as I did before:
 

 
There is a significant warp in the hull, but the thwart insert piece straightens this out, for the most part.
 
Well, that’s where things stand, for now.  Thank you for the likes, comments and for stopping in.
 
 
 
 

Hello and many thanks for your nice comments and likes
Today only a small update, the second layer of paint. Now the hull looks a little more even.
 

 
And like the ship to the left at the following picture, would look ships whose paint bleached out or washed away. Dark brown! And it's brown, not black. You may see ships of that color also at paintings from Dominic Serres. Especially in his pictures about the Havana campaign. When the ships came from the now ended seven years war in North America without a stop at the shipyard to get there yearly re-painting.
 

 
It is a painting done by Charles Brooking „Shipping Becalmed in the Solvent“. I bought this print some years ago from the NMM. From that painting also arose the idea to build a 60 gunner of that period. 
It's a nice scene, the ships drying there sails, the cleaning crew clean up the traces from the morning toilets of ≈500 men and the first tourists making a great port tour. 😉 
 

window construction:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
the painting marathon continues. First in repair, and repair the repair and so on. An endless story. But then I started with the first layer at the middle of the hull. Three layers should follow. 🙁 This is a lighter color to cover the different wood shades. 
 

Hello,
yes Druxey, I learned it the hard way. But at least I got it.
 
  But now, my nearly new model!  
The next days I would paint also the rest of the hull, before I start carving the scrolls within the hansing pieces. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

Good morning.

Thank you for your kind words.
 
I look forward to your Sutton Hoo ship @Schrader. After your earlier projects it will certainly be well worth following.
 
I have glued a few frames, and started to tree nail them. The hull, which is surprisingly stable even without the frame, quickly becomes much more rigid when the frames are fixed at just two points.
 

I started the construction of the bottles and treated the bridge with a coat of shellac

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello and thank you for all,
after a lot more pain I'm mostly ready with the Drift rails. 😄  Only a small quarter circle is left. 
 

 
Because you could't see very much of the details when the rails are painted, I made some pictures before painting them. When I'm ready with the Drift rails I have to start painting the hull before making the rest of the decoration.
 

 

 

Here's a quick update:

 

 
 
 

I might add that the this ship only has oarlocks in the middle of the ship, where the sides are somewhat parallel and the distance to the water is relatively even. The difference in angle to the water for the oars on the different position is in practice not that big. On another ship the situation might be different. I'm not sure that my experience can be generalized, but Cap'n Atli's experience seem to support it.
 
In the build I have completed the majority of the riveting. Only a few hard to reach ones in the narrow parts of the fore and aft remains. I have cut the pins close to the washers with scissors. This leaves a small peg sticking up. To flatten it (and to mimic a real rivet) I melted the peg with a soldering iron and flattened it using flat steel rod (I think it's called a mandrel in English).
 

 
With all the rivets done I have started with installing the frames. First I glue them, then I will drill holes and add tree nails. After some thought I think that it is easiest to wait with the stain on the frames until after the tree nails are installed (so that they can get the correct color as well).
 
To the left some of the last rivets in the fore have just been installed and the washers have just been glued in place.
 

 

Hello,
today only a small update. Why must they have so much timber heads? 
 

 

Thanks friends for likes!!
Some progress. I placed the steering wheel and started the boardroom bulkhead: