rybakov

I finished with this little decorations:





 

Hello,
it is done. The QD is ready planked and has got its first oiling. 




 

Pirate Adam, Dave, Druxey, JD and Amalio, thanks so much for your kind welcoming back comments. This really is a genuine community.
 
JD, I did work for several months at my computer with it propped up on a stool on my desk. Unfortunately, my shop work surfaces are not moveable, and so I work for a bit, lie down a bit, then work again. More doctor visits coming up, hopefully we can get this finally resolved.
 
Amalio, I have so far drawn the Bellona for my own modeling purposes, and also because I like to draw. I am not sure they are in a state where I could reliably say they are complete and consistent. I am also not sure what copyright issues would be involved in selling these, since they are derived from prints of the original Admiralty draughts I obtained from the National Maritime Museum many years ago. And I don't want to get into running a business now I am retired. But I do want to share, where appropriate, back to this community that has helped me so much over the years to develop many of the details I have now incorporated.
 
Here are a few more examples, first, the stern framing I am now working on in the actual model. A note of interest is that I found it necessary to suggest a false floor in the quarter gallery of the upper deck (the lower of the two). If the floor of the gallery were down on top of the lower finishing, it would be a long step down from the door cut in the bulwarks, as measured on the original plans. I imagine it would be a continuation of the upper deck in height and roundup. This is an interesting case of where they needed to resolve the different sheers of the outer bulwarks and the inner decks at this point.
 
Further below, I am showing some of the hatches and partners on the upper deck I will be building at some time in the future. Interesting construction issues in these!
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 

Next, of course, was the combination of blocks with a shoulder block for the top sail sheet and a normal block for the lift on the yardarm.

First the two blocks stropped together ...



... then still smuggled in with bright rope the loop for the horses onto the cleat and finally tied in the eye for the double block at the outside.

First one side ...



... and then the second ...



... and everything for the lifts is on the yardarm 🙂

XXXDAn

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

Ladies, Sirs, mates and pals,
 
I need your advice.
 
I just found something strange in John Lords Section Cut drawing 35208 where he is showing his research results from Humphrey-Papers concering Old Ironsides original layout. I guess it is to be viewed with a certain .. "sceptsism" since Lord did not have Internet or fellow forum colleauges to get advice from. And: it may be a drawing of a set of drawings- in which here missing information may be shown. What I for example noticed as missing information here: Lord refered to the demand of white oak planks 6 feet from the side for the Gun Deck - but did not advice the 5 feed white oak on upper deck - which Humphrey clearly did.
 
But my question for you experts: do you know any evindence for a raised mid section of the decks - in between the hatches - as Lord is showing here? This "white oak" which seem to run in between the hatches - and having a visible step vs. the white oak planks (interlocked?) "beside the hatches" ). It seems to be 6" while that "third straks" along the hatch seems to be described as 5 1/2" - but lowered into the beams.. and the yellow pine planks have a thickness of about 3 1/2" .. making that step 2 1/2" thick. That´s more than 6 cm !
 
I would think that stronger planks along the mid of a ships deck would help to increase stiffness in general - if there weren´t those hatches, which do "cut" the strengthening feature along the ships lengthwise axis. We know that Humphreys designed "interlocked thick strakes" .. and Lord shows them - one on Gun Deck and at least one in Berthdeck. There are white oak strakes along the hatches - which could be interlocked strakes too - but that is not shown explicitly in the drawing.
Source of this section cut: Alexander Mahoun´s "USS Constitution and other historic ships" - but also being part of John Lords 1926-31 restauration plans.
 
But again my main question: are there any other sources or evidence for a step on decks in that mid section - in the area of hatches? Isn´t that an obstacle for the crew - if you have to move a gun from one to the other side - if you have to run across the decks? Or is this just was Lord was thinking it should be?
What do you think?
 
And .. since you are looking: what does he show here in the center of the ship in Berth deck level: that "thick stuff" 6" ?? 10"? .. is this a 6" x 10"? What would that be? There is a dotted line - but what would that be??

Good Evening Markus;
 
Your question touches on several separate topics; not being knowledgeable concerning American ships I cannot perhaps answer with full authority, but I can tell you the equivalent English practice.
 
Firstly, all timber used in ship-building was classified in various categories, according to its size and intended use. For planking, this comprised 'board', 'plank' & 'thick stuff'. Board was around 1" thick, and was used for bulkheads and partitions. Plank was up to 4 or 5" thick, and was used for most of the hull covering, in and out. Thick stuff was used where extra strength was needed, and was up to around 9" thick. Generally, anything over this thickness was only used (in larger ships) for the keel and related pieces, along with deck beams. 
 
Compass timber was anything curved, the main use of which was for forming the curves of the frames.
 
The thicker strakes of deck planking, which are flush with the main deck coverings, but are let down into the top of the deck beams, are known as 'binding strakes', and their purpose was to stiffen the ship's structure. They were also often used to fix the ring-bolts for the train-tackles for the ordnance. 
 
Lord's survey is obviously a very thorough one, and much attention has been paid to detail. I would be very dubious that he shows anything that was not there when he carried out his work. 
 
In the 17th century, the central portion of the deck was normally raised above the planking outside this strip, and was delineated by timbers known as 'long carlings'. See photograph below from a model of the 'Boyne'. 
 

 
This practice continued in the 18th century; see photograph of a model in the National Maritime Museum, dating from the early 1760s.
 

Thanks for posting an interesting drawing. 
 
All the best,
 
Mark P
 

Post One Hundred and Forty-six
 
Thinking about Masts
For a change of focus I have turned my attention to the fitting of masts, or stump versions thereof.
 
At this point I need to determine the overall height of the model so I can order the display case.
 
My masts will finish below the hounds but will include those elements that would appear on the length displayed.
These will include the wooldings, Cheeks, Front fish, and iron hoops.

3711
I start with the Mainmast as this will determine the length of the other masts, and I first need to decide what overall height looks best.
They need to look proportionate, but I am conscious that the taller they are the bigger the case requirement.

3716
In Chris’s design the Mainmast has a set of nine wooldings with eight iron hoops between.
The iron hoops fit beneath the Front fish and cheeks, and the wooldings over both cheeks and fish.

3720
Gauging the relative heights.

3722
The Mainmast now sits around 15” above the stand with the Fore and Mizen reduced proportionately.
3724
I use only Ramin dowel for the lower masts, 12mm, 10mm, and 8mm.

08070
Once treated with w-o-p the colour takes on a warm ochre tone as shown here on my Sphinx build.
Not included on the kit plans for either Sphinx or ‘Indy’ are the wooden hoops top and bottom of the wooldings that secure them in place.
 
B.E.
18/02/2024
 
 

Post One Hundred and Forty-five
 
Stern Lanterns
A pair of Resin lanterns are provided in the kit with Brass etch brackets. Pre-cut acetate glazing that only requires folding to shape, completes the package.
Beautifully crafted, but my initial impression was that they looked a tad on the small size, but I needed to see them on the model.

3685
The plan is used to get the line of the crank.

3686
Assembly is simple, the tricky part if it can be called that, is fitting the ironwork to the stern gallery, particularly when you have lost track of the fixing holes.🙄

3688
I found it easier to use longer lengths of 0.8mm brass wire to form and fit the cranks.

3690
The only addition I made are fixing plates to the stern.
Apart from that I had to file the bottom of the clear glazing a tad to allow the lantern tops to sit down on the framing.

3694
Is my initial impression that they may be a little undersized borne out?
Perhaps not when compared to the contemporary model of Amazon below.

Amazon Stern
I could not find original records relating the ships lantern sizes by rate, and of course I’m not privy to the information used as a basis for the ‘Indy’ Lanterns.
 
I did check out relative sizes from my available sources, and for what it’s worth this is what I gleaned.
 
Victory - side lantern 57½” o/a height (22.8mm at 1:64 scale)
 
Bellona – 62½” o/a height (24.8mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.
 
Pandora – 40¼” o/a height (16.0mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.
 
Leopard  (50 gun ship 1790) - 53” o/a height (21mm at 1:64) Scale drawing John McKay from The 50-Gun Ship.
 
Sixth rate sloop– 51” o/a height (20.25mm at 1:64) scale drawing FFM Sixth rate book from a reconstruction.
 
Indefatigable – 44” o/a height (17.5mm at 1:64 scale) - actual kit fitting.
 
Another option is the exquisite Boxwood lantern 3/16th (1:64) scale from Syren.
This measures 7/8th" (22.25mm) which equates to a 56” o/a height.

1827
I used this on my Pegasus build, and I think it is a viable option for ‘Indy’.
 

3704
On balance I think I will stick with the kit version.

3702

3697
Onwards,
 
B.E.
16/02/2024
 

Hello,
the carpenters started with planking the QD. Here first the balcony and the parquet in the great cabin for the captain. At that time only the great cabin had a parquet. 





And here the painter has oiled the floor

Post One Hundred and Forty-four
 
Strops, Chains, and Plates. (Part two)
The brass etched chains and plates are very nicely made and scaled, and as with the strops took the blackening well.
There are two main considerations in fitting the chains and plates.
 
1.  The angle; they should follow the line of the shroud or stay to which they relate.
2.  The middle and lower links of the chains should be taut when drilling the hole in the hull where they are fixed by the Preventer Plate.
 
I used a 0.4mm ø drill for the fixing holes and blackened pins as supplied with the kit.
 
A pin pusher was used to drive the pins home, I found glue was unnecessary.

1864a

1866a

1868a
My only diversion from the kit plan is in respect of the backstays on the Mizen stool.

1869a
I shortened the upper link for the Mizen Topmast backstay and used a smaller version of the lower link. (left over from a previous build)

1871a
 A smaller 2.5mm deadeye was used for the Mizen T’gallant Backstay.
I made a new combined strop and strap from some 0.5mm brass wire, silver soldered for the strap. This allows the deadeye to sit as per the Adm plan.

1872a
When it comes to the Deadeye iron work Chris has done a great job, the plans and drawings clearly identify the relevant parts and their fixing points.👍
 
B.E.
14/02/2024
 

I finally finished the first set of sidewall decorations:
 





 

Hello,
thank you Eric. In this case it had snowed that morning and in the afternoon the snow was gone. So I changed it a little.
 
The future captain protested, because of the stair he should crawl up at hands and feet. So the shipwright decided to change that.
So looked it at the draught

I'm working after the second draught for the Tiger, made in 1747. The first one is from 1745 and shows two stairs or ladders. 
Below:
The upper draught is from the Anson, 60 gunner from 1747, an is made 1745. The second draught is from the Tiger, made 1746! It did't match with the draught (side view) I'm working after. The GD yes, but not the QD and the FC. The beams here not at the same places. At the FC you see that they made changes, they erase some beams and the deck here is shorter than at the side view I'm working after. And it looked so, as if they made the part of the QD new. 
But because my draught is from 1747, it looked so if that is the final version after wich they had build the ship and changed later the deck plans.

At least you could't even trust the draughts. And that is what the carpenters had build now. They cut one beam and made the coming longer. 


The shipwright tested the stair. The beams here are 6 feet high, so with a hat you have to watch your head.

But at the first step his head is in the open. We hope that the captain is now satisfied.

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Alan, my pleasure!
 
Her some more real old copper, seen in museum in Oudeschild Texel, where the famous dioprama of the roadstead with the dutch fleet is shown.
 
Just enjoy the laying pattern, the adjustments in the edges and around the fittings, the patches and my favorite piece: the hole of the rudder jeer  🙂
 

Hello, and thank you for your likes
 
The ladders now are ready and installed! That was not my week. I don't know how often I build at least the planks until they fit and new jig's for the saw. But that is snow from this morning. When I haven't forgot anything, planking the QD my next big thing at my list.
 
Here the craftsmen have them ready

and fit in



And also the stair for the officers. There is not much headroom for them. 

Post One Hundred and Forty-two
 
Back to the head 
The stump Bowsprit has been secured in place.
I like to add fittings to the Bowsprit as far as its length permits.
 
Gammoning
For a Sixty-four, rope of 7”circ is required, scaling to 0.88mm ø.

3597
The first job is to determine the position of the gammoning cleats.

3598
The kit provided cleats (M73) looked a little undersize to my eye, so I remade the five required from some Boxwood section.
 
The line
I used Syren 0.88mm ø line dyed with Colon dark Jacobean oak wood dye, which is my go-to for standing rigging. I have never been keen on kit provided black line.

3604
It is important to ensure that enough line is taken to complete the turns and frapping. I allowed 60” to complete the job, I had 12” left over, which is just about right.
The gammoning starts thro’ an eye splice on the Port side, and the line twists as it passes from fore to aft with each turn.
 
Steel refers to cross turns of the frapping.
when all the turns are passed, and hove tight, they are frapped together in the middle, by as many cross turns as are passed over the bowsprit, each turn hove tight: the end of the gammoning rope is then whipt, and seized to one of the turns. the frapping increases the tension; and adds to the security acquired by the purchase.
 
Horse
One of the features of the head almost entirely missing from kits is the iron (Horse) a rail that runs between the Main rail fore and aft supported by an iron stanchion. The horse hooks into eyebolts in the main Rail.

3607
Often this has netting strung along it as a safety feature.

3608
I like to add this fitting, fairly simple, if you have the makings.
I use lengths of 0.7mm brass rod, and eyebolts and stanchions from the kit.
 
Boomkins
These simple to make fittings proved not so simple to fit.
Secured adjacent to the knightheads at the bow they run in a downwards direction where they are secured by a capsquare as they cross the False Rail.

3613
My problem is that they are obstructed by the seats of ease which I needed to modify slightly to give clearance.
Still work to do, the recess for the Boomkin needs adjusting for the angle, and there are capsquares to make.
 
At last, I can put the impressive figure into place.

3615

3617

3619

6320

3621

3624
The Head is all but done now, back to the repetitive task of deadeye stropping and chainplate fixing.
 
 
B.E.
 
08/02/2024
 

 
 

Cheers  Håkan,  I certainly didn't have you in mind for this rare offer of rigging blocks😉
 
Post One Hundred and Forty-0ne
From this point in the build I will be jumping around attending to bits and pieces as takes my fancy.
 
One of the areas I thought could do with some enhancement is the gangway from the Poop to the Qtr deck.

Prototype build photo.
Beautifully crafted by James, but the kit arrangement seems to be a simplification having a couple of stanchions on the gangway with a rope guard leading down to the Qtr deck.
 
This doesn’t reflect the more substantial arrangements in the 18th century as demonstrated on several contemporary models.
To my eye there is an awkward gap between the Poop waist rail and the aftermost stanchion.

3569

3579
I made up newel posts from some Pear section and rails from 3mm pear strip.

3587
I have decided to varnish the newels and Poop rail posts rather than paint them.
3590

3592

3594
I think the arrangement looks more appropriate for a ship of this stature.
 
B.E.
06/02/2024
 
 
 

Hello,
now the coamings for the gratings and the stairway are ready. The carpenters preparing all for building the ladders tomorrow. 

Post One Hundred and Forty
 
Thinking about Deadeyes   
The rigging on Indy is that of a Sixty-four, I understand that initial use of lesser rated masting and rigging proved unsuccessful.
 
By reference to Steel, a Sixty-four had Deadeye sizes given as:
Fore and Mainmast shrouds 16”, TM Backstays 10”, and T’gallant Backstays 6”
Mizen mast shrouds 10” TM Backstays 8”, T’gallant Backstays 4” thimbles. The Indy Adm plan shows a deadeye.
These equate to scale sizes of 6.35mm, 4mm, 3.2mm, and 2.4mm.
 
The kit includes three sizes of Deadeye; 7mm, 5mm, and 3mm.

3561
These look good on the model, and I like that the delineation between the deadeyes for the shrouds and two sizes of Backstays. 
I am not sufficiently moved to start looking around for closer matches to Steel, but I may substitute a 2.5mm deadeye for the Mizen T’gallant backstay.
 
The kit Deadeyes are the standard version, Walnut I think, but they are cleanly formed with evenly set holes.
I can detect very little difference to the Pear versions except for the colour.

3566
I actually like the colour of the standard version, seems to suit my model.
 
In my case there was little point in going for the more expensive Pear version as I wouldn’t be rigging the model.
The standard rigging blocks are a different story;

3568
Not all modelers will be concerned by this sort of detail, but for me these belong to a bygone modelling age, blocky, single hole affairs not worthy of  using on a kit of Vanguard quality.
If the model is to be rigged then the Pear version will cost you an extra £140, a worthwhile expense in my opinion.
 
Spoiling the ship for a ha’porth of tar comes to mind.
 
Anyone want some bags of rigging blocks before I bin them?
 
 
B.E.
05/02/2024

 

Hello,
today the carpenters build the gratings and the painter painted them.
What I'm wondering about when building the gratings is, how did they get out the capstan? In small pieces  I think at least they have to open the deck and cut out a beam 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-nine 
Channels
I made up the channels and trial fitted back in January (Post 127).

3194
Now that the inboard fittings have been done this is an opportune time to complete the job.

3543
Small weights are used to maintain the level until the glue sets.

3546
The  brackets are added before painting, the underside of the channels were painted before fitting.

3548

3552

3555

3556

3560
A final tidy-up of the Topsides can now be done.
 
 
B.E.
04/02/2024

Hello,
now all the beams are installed. Not every beam got a hanging knee. Only there where they go strait down, that was enow of finger artistic for me  
Is there something like Murphy's law, that the knees dry fit perfectly, but with some glue on it not  



And also the number of cannons increased.

The next thing to do are the coamings for the gratings and the stair.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-eight
Poop Deck
I had assembled the Mizen Bitts and Skylight earlier in the build, and they are now added, along with the Poop breast rail.

3531

3535

3539
Note:
Before you fit the Mizen Bitts check the plans; don’t go by the Manual photos, they will lead you astray.
 
Flag Lockers
These have a nicely crafted core of brass etch sections that slot together seamlessly. An outer skin of laser cut Pear complete the units.

3540
I wasn’t overkeen on the engraved boarding on the top so I added a lead sheathing for ‘weather protection’.

3537
At this point the lead hasn’t been weathered, as I did with the Gallery roof.

3538
Not much more to do on the Poop, but I did think about the fittings for an Ensign Staff.
The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them.
 
I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but I think she would have had them.
These items are provided with the Sphinx kit, but a simple Cap-square and step for the staff would be fairly easy to make.
 
Onto the Channels.
 
B.E.
02/02/2024

I have considered Daniel’s chains, T_C.  Unfortunately, I don’t think their length will cover the span that I need to reach the middle band of wales.  It’s okay, though, making my own is a worthwhile learning experience.
 
So far, I’ve made the 5MM, fore and main deadeye strops.  I just completed the 3.5MM backstay deadeye strops.

Below are the rough strops before filing away excess solder.  Above are the cleaned-up strops.  I have adopted a method described by R.C. Anderson, where the join overlaps and is concealed beneath the channels.  I’m reasonably satisfied with these.  Now that I have a new pair of nippers, I will get busy making the other links, although I still need to make 4MM deadeye strops for the mizzen chains.
 
I wanted to do something more familiar and fun, so I’ve started re-locating the trunnions for the main deck battery.  To the left is the stock trunnion location, and you can see that the cascabel overhangs the carriage end to an excessive degree.  To the right, I’ve shifted the barrel forward to where it should be:

This process begins by shaving away the existing trunnions, and making a simple marking gauge to locate the new trunnion position:

I use an awl to make a starting depression for the drill, otherwise the bit will just skate across the rounded surface.  First, I chuck the bit in a pin vise to get a better bite on both locations.  Then, I can chuck the bit in the Dremmel and drill though one side at a time:

A short length of .035 styrene rod is fed through the barrel, and a spot of liquid plastic cement, on the underside of each join, secures it.  On my marking gauge, I inscribed a line indicating the projection of the trunnions from the barrel side.  A pencil mark on the overlong trunnions gives me a reference to nip to.  I clean the ends with a file, and voila:


Corrected trunnions!
 
Ultimately, I will add either paper or foil cap squares to the visible, detailed guns.
 
Thanks for stopping by and looking in at This Old Project!