tarbrush

so I'm done with the castings around the gallery and stern , I'll move on to the bow section

I got in an entire hour in the shop. I made and installed the cleats on the bulwarks.
 
Here is a photo of what they actually looked like on a schooner. This is a small part of a larger photo, but I am pretty sure this is the deck of the Julia Delacruz, built in 1924.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ

Speaking of research and modeling, here is an interesting question, the answer to which I found through research.
 
How should the fore and aft ends of the deck house be oriented? I had always thought they would be perpendicular to the keel, just as was the framing of this model. However, a contemporary photograph clearly shows that the ends of the deck house are more or less perpendicular to the deck, meaning it will more or less follow the sheer line. Note how the ends of the deck house and window trim are nearly at right angles to the rail.  
 
Question answered.
 
Russ

What was done before part 4:
 
Lighting
 
 

 

 

 

 
 

 

Boy... am I ever slow.  Life, work, and getting things set up to retire have all taken their toll. 
 
One of the first things I had to do was make a new zero tolerance insert for the table saw.  The old plastic one finally gave up the ghost.  So... after some fiddling with metal and plastic, I grabbed some scrap wood and had at it.

 
Then it was back to cutting planks and planking. I have only one side and small part of that done.  From the wale line up to the channel wale on the port side.  Needs to have the channel wale added and then sand like crazy and finish opening and tidying up the gunports. 
 

Friday July, 26th, 2013.
 
Nao "Santa María", Captain in the America discovery.

Thanks for those photos Alex!!!, boy will they come in handy as reference when I am trying to weather a hull

The stern framing completed before fairing. A slow process!

 

 

 

 
Dick

My brother and his wife were here for a few days and we had fun together, but now it’s back to building.
 
Looking at the study plans (on the first page) you can see a wheel in front of the mizzen mast.  Now to make a wheel.  Using .04” brass wire I made a ring .40” dia. For a 20” ring made of 2” bar.  I then drilled six holes in the ring to accept .02” wire and cut the spokes to .62” or 30” scale.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Glad you are back Foremast!!
This is such a fabulous inspiring build!

Hi mates,
a little step: foredeck. This is a test, the lower part - the fore area of the main deck - still lacks of its supporting elements. I thought that making the deck first, then beams, could help me to collocate upper elements (foremast, bitts) but it hasn't been a good idea. Difficulties have been, instead, more: the easier drilling of deck's holes is nothing in comparision with the difficulty to bend properly the deck.
 
Chees
Alex

Hi all,

here is the internal view of the fore area. The wood is stained. In the last photo, a full view of the ship's right side ... aft frames, on the poopdeck, were temporary removed because of a placing mistake: I hadn't considered the correct thickness of planking
 
Cheers
Alex

...eh ...eh ...eh ...!!!
 
Red is for the lower part of the forecastle. There's a white colored middle part and a semi-natural wooden part on the top. Semi-natural because (as shown in the pictures) it's a bit stained with dark linseed oil. You can see the difference: the hull under the forecastle is still natural, meanwhile the forecastle is stained.
 
Cheers
Alex
 
p.s. this picture is a prewiev.... In fact you can see also the wales (red)
Pasta ai carciofi is a typical recipe of my town. But you can find lots of varieties of pasta all'uovo (pasta made with flour an eggs). If you decide to come here, tell me something ....!!!!

Thanks, Popeye!
 
Next two pictures show completely the reason of my building choices. In this way, the gunports' frames are thin and totally included in the planking. Besides, they protrude a bit adding realism to the whole structure. The following pictures show three red stripes, but the highest will be removed and changed with a white one.
 
Cheers
Alex

... continue ...
Fore and aft arrangement, complete view of work in progress.
 
Alex

Hello all,
 
we are still in the fore area. Here, I had to solve a double problem.
First, the whole portion of the main deck that's beneath the foredeck is well visible, because of the great fore opening; this means I had to make a complete and good-looking arrangement about: frames, hanging knees, deck beams and - above all - internal planking.
Second, the bulwark had to be thin: either because this wasn't a structural part of the ship (shipwrights surely used a thin timber-covering avoiding dangerous hight weights and saving a bit of money ...), or because of the gunports, where an excessive visible thickness of the planking would have been terrible to see.
 
So I decided to make a very light double planking. The internal one, with 0,5 mm thick mansonia nut strips, a bit stained and sanded to simulate something old and gloomy. The external one, with 1,0 mm strips of the same wood. So making, I solved an additional problem: how avoid fissures between the strips? Being the internal area well visible, and as well the external one , even the smallest crack between the strips would have shown an awful (and unrealistic) spot of light. I couldn't use glue to fix strips side to side: because of their minimal thickness, I would have been sure to have lots of glue residues. The trick was to place the two plankings at different height. The internal one, began and ended with a 2,5 mm-wide strip, while in the middle all strips were 5mm wide; the external one was all made with 5 mm wide strips. In this way, the bulwark is thin enough, resistant, without fissures ... and only an expert eye can see that it was made in double planking.
 
Regards
 
Alex

Hello all,
now, beginning of the upper fore structure. The difficult was to mantain simultaneusly: the vertical aligment, the parallelism, the horizzontal chamfering of each rib.
 
Regards
Alex

Hi, Augie!
Just ask ...... here it is
 
Stern view is nicer than bow.
 
Alex

Hello all,

these picture show the complete middle deck in the fore area. It protrudes a bit out of hull's shape because it will be connected up to the gunwale. The lateral profile of the middle deck, in fact, is also the edge of the lower external frame as shown in the paintings above.
 
Regards
Alex

I've found a couple of images that show the way for the fore castle assembly (as well, will be the poodeck). The project, first picture, was inspired by the second picture: the arrangement of a hanseatic ship replica, internal view, "Lisa von Lubeck" (middle deck and supports of the upperdeck); whose tonnage and shape are similar to my shipmodel.
 
Regards
Alex

More Hull Work

At the time I was planking the deck, I took some time to build up the structure for the main deck house. When the Saginaw was originally built, this included a pilot house at the forward end. For some reason, this was removed at the time of the 1863 refit. Perhaps it wasn’t high enough to be useful. Without the pilot house, the design was pretty simple, just a long rectangle with a half-round forward end. 

 

I had shaped the structure from thin plywood and basswood and cut a 1/2” diameter opening for the funnel. The outside was planked with thin, narrow, vertical strips of boxwood. Six doors would be added at a later stage.

 

 

About the same time, I also made a basic funnel from 1/2” brass tubing, about 3-1/2” long and cut a shallow hole in the deck to seat it in. I also drilled holes in the deck for the masts and cut to length the dowels I would need for the masts and spars.

 



 

Something I forgot to mention in my last post relates to those last two photos of that post. You’ll note that I added the channels at the same time as the main rail. Since the channels are in line with the rail, I went ahead and built them into the rail itself for added strength. An upper rail or hammock rail will go on top of this, so the channels should be quite sturdy. I’ll post one of the photos again here to illustrate.

 



 

At this stage, I also added scuppers, which were drilled through the bulwarks and then lined with thin walled brass tubing. I also added started work on the two large bits at the foremast. The plans show them to have what I assume to be iron rods run through them as cross-bitts. These bits might have actually been iron sheathed, but I chose to treat mine as wooden with a metal band that the rods are run through.

 

The next photo shows the upper rail nearly complete. At the bow, notches were cut for the catheads and the rail is still in progress. Gunports were lined and I had started working on the hawse pipes which I made from brass tubing. A small piece of sheet brass was soldered onto the end of the tube and then was filed to shape for the lips. I did something similar for the inboard end of the hawse pipes, though they are completely separate pieces.

 



 



 

 

Clare

As I've been going along I've been doing a bit of research on the Bluenose in an effort to find some further details on the deck furniture.  There is only so much I can do at this scale, but I really wanted to make her look a little more authentic.
 
I located some photos of the original ship, or at least they were listed that way, and have found something interesting, ney odd.  There is a structure on the aft deck, next to the steering box that is unidentified.  In fact this structure is not depicted in this model.
 
Any ideas what this is?

Wonderful job on the coppering Ray!! looks so great.

Friday July 012th, 2013.
 
Nao "Santa Maria", Captain of the America discovery.

Thank you all for your kind word  s my friends and your encouragement!!!