ianmajor

Back in the '60s there were several magazine articles by model makers on making windows from microscope cover slips. They cut them using good quality scissors whilst holding the slips under water to stop the vibration from shattering the glass. It appeared to be successful though I have not tried this method so have no personal experience.

Wayne,
 
That looks an interesting project. How old would you say the kit is? The artwork on the box has a definite '50s/'60s feel to it though the content looks quite modern.

Wow Wayne,  that is very cool.  I used to sell that line at the hobby store I managed back in the late 80s/early 90s.  Brings back memories! - they were very popular back then.
 
Ian - that one is from 84 (I grabbed the pic he had and looked at the larger version so I cheated )

the chess table cells 1х1м  

Beer soup is good! We have it here in the Midwest... Thanks for the interesting info. I always wondered why they didn't use that when they ran short of water in the tropics.

HMS Victory
1:96 Scratchbuild Project
Part 18 – Eye Splices and Strops
 
 
Cyanoacrylate Glue
 
CA glue is one of my least favorite substances to work with. Its difficult to remove from skin, it runs where it is not wanted, its difficult to apply in measured doses, excess can be impossible to remove, it sometimes adheres where desired, but always adheres where not desired. However, I do not believe Victory’s complex rigging, at this scale, could have been modeled very well without it.
 
I once spilled quite a bit of a bottle of this stuff on my workbench. Believe me; that will never happen again. Below is a picture of the simple holder that I always use when using this glue.
 
 

 
I do not use the applicator tip on the bottle because dosage can’t be controlled with it and it immediately plugs anyway. I use a homemade brass wire applicator like the one next to the bottle above. A close up picture of the end of this is shown below.
 
 

 
To make this, a piece of .030 inch brass rod is slit down one end with a fine blade on a jeweler’s saw, the end is then de-burred and shaped as shown above. The idea is to get it to work like an old style drafting pen, holding a limited amount of liquid. A bit of trial and error is necessary to get the amount it holds right, but it is capable of delivering a very small amount of CA, which is what is needed for rigging at this scale. The applicator is just dipped into the open CA bottle. Two or three of these are needed because they quickly get gummed up. When that happens, I drop them into a tall closed jar of acetone and take out a clean one ready for use. Keeping the jar tightly closed is important. Acetone is hazardous to health and flammable, and the vapors in the closed jar help dissolve the glue above the liquid level.
 
I used the thin grade of CA on all the rigging work. All you really want to do with this is get the rope fibers to stick to one another in a knot or a simplified mimic of a splice. CA was never depended upon by itself.
 
 
Eye Splices
 
There are relatively very few actual knots in Victory’s rigging. Almost everything is fastened together with spices of some sort, usually eye splices. These were then fastened with seizings or lashings. So, there were very many eye splices to be made.
 
For the very largest lines like the main and forestays, actual splices were made for the model, but that was impractical for anything smaller. So the following process, or some variant of it was used for virtually all the splices.
 
In the first picture below, the rope is untwisted enough to insert a needle, with an eye large enough to take the rope, through the strands. For small, unmade rope, the needle is merely pushed through the center of the thread fibers.
 
 

 
The short end of the rope is then threaded on to the needle (which can be pulled mostly through to save rope), and the rope is pulled through itself as shown below.
 
 

 
In the next picture the loop has been placed over a piece of stiff wire the size of the desired opening in the eye splice. The short end has then been pulled up tight and the long end has been twisted to tighten up the rope.
 

 
The short end is then lapped over the long leg and the splice touched with a small drop of CA as shown below.
 
 

 
Before the CA has had a chance to completely cure, remove the splice from the wire and clamp it in pliers to give the splice some shape as shown below.
 
 

 
The next picture shows the final result after the short leg has been clipped off with scissors. I use small sharp embroidery scissors for this clipping. They, too, need to be cleaned in acetone from time to time to remove CA.
 
 

 
Eye splices from large sizes down to the smallest, 1½ inch (.007 diam.) rope were made this way and have withstood rigging tension without any failures.
 
Stropping Blocks
 
There are very many different types of block strops on the model – too many to cover here. Many required some innovative application of the techniques discussed below. Some of the larger blocks, like the jeer blocks, were done completely differently and much more authentically.
 
The following process, or some near variation was used for the great majority of blocks.
 
First an eye splice is made in the rope as described above. For very small lines I just tied double overhand knots to make the loop around the wire post and wet that with CA. In the picture below, an eye has been put in the rope by the method above. Because the stropping process requires at least three hands, the surgical clamp shown below is an essential tool.
 

 
With the block held between the fingers by the surfaces with the sheave holes, the rope is pulled tight so the splice is down on the top of the block. The rope is then pinched together just below the block with the fingers. The strop is then clamped to the sides of the block with the surgical clamp as shown below.
 
 

 
In the next picture the clamp is laid down so the bottom of the block is up. An overhand knot, simulating a splice can then be tied across the bottom. This is then pulled tight and touched with CA.
 

 
In the picture below the finished block has had the excess rope clipped off and is shown attached to another line with a seized overhand knot, one of the many different ways used, depending on the line.
 
 

 
Another method, used on larger blocks is shown below.
 
 

 
Instead of the simulated splice, a seizing is put around the rope to form the eye. The eye is then put over the wire as before and the overhand knot in the thread shown above is pulled tight and pushed right up to the wire.
 
 

 
A second overhand knot is then added. Perhaps we should call it “an underhand knot,” because it is tied from below to avoid a knot-like appearance. This can be followed by another overhand knot on the top, and so on, depending on the size of the block and how large a seizing is appropriate. A small drop of CA is then applied to the seizing. If the drop of CA is too large in this step, the rope won’t bend around the top of the block. The bottom splice is then applied with an overhand knot on the bottom as shown below.
 

 
I think we’re getting close to the end, but not quite yet. The next part should wrap it up.
 
Ed Tosti

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 142–Stern Galleries 8–Quarter Gallery Windows
Posted 7/16/12
 
There were some comments on milling the windows. Milling these small pieces, for me at least, was the easiest part of the job – compared to assembling these and fitting them into the window openings. These later steps require a steady hand and that is a problem. The first picture shows the milling setup used to notch the pieces
.
 

 
The slotting saw blade is about 2” thick (.028”). The only one I had of this size was 4” in diameter, hence the oversize blade in the picture. Two-inch thick stock is held down in the jig with two screws with large round heads. The angle is set to the angle of the windows, in this case the quarter gallery windows. A small strip helps keep the wood tight to the jig, but many of the cuts required holding down the piece. Once set up the cutting of the slots was easy using the calibrated wheels to match the 9” x 10” size of the panes.
 
The next step is a bit more fun. The next picture shows a window being assembled.
 
 

 
In the next picture an inside grille is being fit into its frame.
 
 
 
 

 
This was done by sanding the frames until they just fit. The inside grilles were installed deep enough in the frame to allow a second grille to be fit over the glass – a piece of transparency film.
 
In the next picture the forward window with its glass and outer grille has been installed.
 

 
The outer grille of the second window is fit into place and slight differences between the inner and outer matching grilles are being filed out. Also, a slight bevel was put on the outer mullions at this stage. The outer grille was then removed, the glass fitted and the grille glued back in over it.
 
The last picture shows the finished quarter gallery windows.
 

 
Ed

Dear all,
 
the below are the most recent pictures, showing the sheer poles installed and the installation of the battened rat-lines still in process.
I'm looking forward this weekend to continue!
Stelios

 

continued
 

thank you all very much for the kind words. Decided to show the construction of a large cabin there is a small extension did parquet in size until you cut out the used such types of wood 1.Carpinus Decne black.
2.Betula pendula var. carelica (Merckl.) Hämet-Ahti (1984) 3.Platanus L., 1753 4.Microberlinia 5. pear garden 6.Guibourtia tessmannii 7.Juglans regia L.
many people say that on my ship should not be such a sex on the status of not supposed to but I wanted and I do because I do for the soul
 
всем огромное спасибо за добрые слова. Решил показывать строительство большой каюты здесь вот небольшое продолжение сделал паркет по размеру пока не вырезал использовал вот такие сорта дерева 1.Carpinus Decne  чёрный.
 2.Betula pendula var. carelica (Merckl.) Hämet-Ahti (1984) 3.Platanus L., 1753 4.Microberlinia 5. груша садовая 6.Guibourtia tessmannii 7.Juglans regia L.
многие говорят что на моём корабле не должно быть такого пола по статусу не положено но мне захотелось и я делаю потому что делаю для души 
 

Next is to put all this things into my boat.
 

 
I had to start with the servos.
 

 
After that, I had to construct a bracket for the engine.
 

 
And fix it on the right place in the boat.
 

 

 
Nico

Head rails again...

Doris,
 
I am at one with BE. The small number of tools you use compared to mine put me to shame. I think you demonstrate the importance of a good imagination when determining how to tackle a task.
 
You remind me of an artist teacher friend of mine. His artistic flair means he, like you, can produce masterful work with very basic materials, particularly when handling different paint pigments to get the right colours. I fear this is an ability that is inherited rather than learnt so I will have to continue with my trunk full of tools!
 
Ian M.

In the following sequence of pictures I tried to illustrate the bowsprit ironworks. (or to be accurate brass works!)
 
I did not have brass tube at the time to cut the collars, so I had to make them by myself.Not difficult really, I just coiled brass wire at the desired diameter, then soldered in order to become a solid ring. A little trimming with the needle files, and they are ready.!
 
Next drill four holes insert the rings, and solder them.
 
Once ready, fit on the bowsprit, blacken them.
Finally varnish the bowsprit. Not bad I guess...
 

Ian and Dave,
thank you!
 
Stelios

Hi, here are the latest picture of the Banterer. I'm building together with my father. The first three picture show the first "sea trials" last summer:  
The following pictures show the status of teh mechancis in January. The Set up of the main and mizzen mast will change as the combined mechanics proved not being reliable:
 
 
Best regards
   Lami
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 115 –Upper Deck Waterways, Spirketing
Posted 1/10/12
 
 
After the last posting, all of the remaining ledges of the upper deck were installed. The framing of the deck was then leveled out where needed and the filling pieces at the side were pared down level with the tops of the deck beams. The next step was to install the waterways. In the next picture stock is being shaped to make these.
 
 

 
The waterway is thicker under the first strake of spirketing, tapering down in a curve to the thickness of the deck planking. The machining of this shape was done in two steps. First the concave curve was cut with a round ended milling cutter. Then the second cut was made to level the end that would abut the deck planks. The simple jig in the picture was made to guide the pieces through the cutter.
 
The next picture shows one of the forward, curved pieces of waterway being fit.
 
 

 
The flat piece of Castello was shaped to fit the curve of the frames using a disk sander. For curved pieces like this I do not bother with card forms or spiling. The shape was roughly drawn on a rectangular piece of wood and then progressively sanded to shape until a tight fit was obtained. The width of the piece was the marked with a small compass, cut on the scroll saw, then sanded to shape. A different jig was used to machine these curved pieces.
 
The next picture shows the waterways installed.
 
 
 

 
This picture also shows the installation of all the ledges. On the starboard side, the joints are cut, but the actual ledges are left out for visibility into the lower decks on that side.
 
Next is another picture taken further aft.
 
 

 
The top riders were all removed before installing the waterways. The waterways will have to be cut out to permit these to be installed later. This seemed easier than trying to fit the waterways and the rest of the interior planking behind the riders.
 
Before moving to the spirketing, the port gunport linings had to be installed. The next picture shows a couple of these after the linings were faired down with 120-grit paper.
 

 
There is a bit of lens distortion here which makes the line of these last three ports appear humped. The outside of these port frames will be finish sanded later, since they will be left exposed. The notches in the frames below the ports are the openings for the lower deck scuttles.
 
The next picture shows the spirketing on the port side mostly installed.
 

 
This comes up to the tops of the port sills and its upper edge is dubbed off to be horizontal at the height of the linings. The large block is holding one of the guy wires that keep the hull in place. These were removed to work on this in that area, then replaced.
 
The next picture is a closer view of the aft sections of spirketing being installed on the starboard side.
 

 
The spirketing on the lower deck is installed with anchor stock configuration. This was spelled out specifically in the three contracts from the Naiad period that I am using. This was not specified in any of those for the upper deck, so these are being installed as straight planks. The pins are forced through slightly undersized hole using pliers to hold them in place when gluing. The tops of the planks were dubbed off using a Stanley number 93 plane with the stock held in a wide vise.
 
The last picture shows the run of spirketing on the port side, pinned and glued in place.
 

 
While these pictures were being taken, the curved section at the bow was being clamped to shape in place after boiling.
 
The next step will be to plank between the ports on the port side only. The top riders can then be reinstalled.
 
 
 
Ed

Thanks for you input   Always good to know what I'm working with and risks that are involved with it.  We have some nasty things for this hobby!

Hi Ian,
 
Thank you,
The Keel and Keelson are Steamed Pearwood and the False Keel is Walnut.
The Pearwood was obtained from Timberline and the Walnut I think I obtained from Charnwood some time in the past.
I also bought from Timberline at the same time a block of Lemonwood to do the frames in (Hopefully)
 
Martin. 

Thank you very much John, Janos, Doris, Amfibius, and Adeline - I'm glad you all appreciate the effort gone into this piece. It's been a heap of fun building it .
 
Almost finished with the Capstans - I've fitted all the bolts. There are 10 brass ones (they should be iron, but I've used brass so they can be seen) in each reinforcing ring, as well as the 0.35mm holes for the bar retaining pins. The pics with the sidecutters give you an idea of how small these "bolts" are - the last one to be fitted is lying on top of the drumhead in one of the pics.
 
I've used blackened brass "bolts" for the remainder.
 
 





 
  Danny

Adrieke,
 
Good point. Didn't spot that!
 
Doh!  
 
Ian M.

good day not finding the desired page may be looking for bad decided to create a new Leave to the court several types of stoves all of them will be installed in the Bonhomme Richard 1779 which I quietly building a scale of 1:48 am sorry the process of building't take pictures only ready to view if you have proposals and comments with a great pleasure will be interesting to see who else is doing it, Anatoly
 
добрый день не найдя нужной страницы может искал плохо решил создать новую Предоставляю  на суд несколько видов печек все они будут установлены в Bonhomme Richard 1779 который я потихонечку строю в масштабе 1:48 извиняюсь процесс построения не фотографировал только готовый вид если есть предложения и замечания с удовольствием приму было бы интересно посмотреть кто как делает это Анатолий

 

hello Ian
 
i was refering to sheets 5 and 6 the parts to cover the hull as far as i can see there are no indications where to cut if yo want a waterline version.
 
and no worries happy to help

I believe boats were towed (other than in action) for ready use, Ian. It would take far too long to rig, hoist and lower a boat over the side in an emergency such as a man overboard. Also, open boats need to be kept wet to remain water-tight. My last model had two of the three ships' boats mounted so as to appear floating off the stern quarters. The third was rigged, ready to hoist from the waist.

The basic sizes
Excuse but I not the artist
Anatoly