uss frolick

Are there any paintings of her sister frigates, Medusa or Aeolus? Did not Medusa also fight the Spanish Treasure Frigates in 1804 with Lively, etc? Are there realistic depictions of that action?

While you are building HMS Surprise, you will be allowed to talk like Preserved Killick.
 
Example:
 
Wife: "Honey, dinners ready! Put down your little boat."
 
You: "Which I'm coming, ain't I? Bleedin' wife sez do this, do that, poor old Killick ... I'll trade her in for a new wench at the horse fair, see if I don't ... Er ... Nothing ... Coming Dear."

Crespo's work is one of the best studies of this subject. This ship was built english style and that explains his tendency; outside of this and going back to plans and models, it is worth mentioning that PB-0002 plan shows what appears to be the ship portrayed in PB-0197 in drydock at La Carraca with a profile of the vessel and dock. The San Carlos was a smaller vessel some 94 guns or so dated 1765 Built Habana and this corresponds to PB-0003. There is also another drawing reported to be of the Trinidad officers boarding entrance detail at the side of the ship PB-0097. Although not of Trinidad PB-0092 by Bryant and the english style as well as PB-0343 for Stern and Bow details, These are all worth looking at. The carving on the stern of the model clearly carved El RL Carlos 1766. This is beieved by many to just represent a gesture to the King not to mention trying to gain  the Royal favor. I am sure this was lobbying and the Mullans were not the first.

I understand your reservations. Currently the best we have is those plans. Some say the US plan has the hand of Mullan while the Russian plan is by Landa and both show same figurehead despite regulatory Lion. The lack of stern ornamentation is of not much relevance at this point as most plans of the period did not illustrate this. By the way the model attributed to Mullan built between 1766 and 1767 is said to be that of the Real Carlos  this seems to have been a dedication of the model to the king contibuting to the confusion; this is according to Gonzalez Aller. You are doing a wonderful job. Keep it up.

The fir built double banked frigate HMS Newcastle of 50-guns, c.1813, had all of her spar deck gun ports almost directly above her gun deck ports. Ditto, to a lesser extent, HMS Leander, 1813. The USS Constellation may have been rebuilt the same way in 1829, if one accurate Maltese painting is to be believed. I can't think of any others off hand either.
 
One of Aeolus's junior lieutenants in 1811 was the later author, Frederick Marryat, although he transferred out before the great chase.

That stern is an exact copy of Howard Chapelle's reconstruction, right down to the wreath thingy.

So, with the Harriet Lane nearing completion and the Emma C. Berry moving along, I figured it was time to start a whole new adventure. 
 
This Aeropiccola kit dates to 1974 (according to the drawings, at least).  It is a very solid POB kit, plans are in Italian but a brief translation provided for the labels into English.  No instructions, just the plans. My intent is to work through the plans, referencing the Model Shipways instructions for ideas.  I will also be using the Hackett plans and the redrawn version by William Baker provided in The Frigate Essex Papers (1974).  I also have The Anatomy of the Ship The 32-Gun Frigate Essex by Portia Takakjian, as well as several articles from The Nautical Research Journal and Model Ship Builder Magazine (Seaways Publishing).  I have ordered a copy of Portia's plans for the Essex and the Model Shipways plans as well.  My goal, over the time I am building this beastie, is to take it slowly and try to combine the best from all sources available to me.  We'll see how that works out!
 
This is quite a change from the Harriet Lane - 1:70 scale as opposed to the 1:144 for the Harriet (and 1:32 for the ECB). This one measures about 27" stem to stern for the framer - total length when finished will be 43 inches long, 13 3/4 inches wide and 29 inches tall with the rigging. The kit includes all the rigging, including material for sails.  That decision is a long time off, so no idea yet whether to include the sails or not.
 
Here, then, is the obligatory photo of the box (note this is one of the kits Maryann was selling last June).

 
Some of the contents
 

 

 

 
The Bulkhead framer and bulkheads laid out for inspection
 

 
And, the bulkheads dry fit - all slid in slick as could be.  I did have to file the fitting between the central portion of the framer and the bow and stern pieces.
 

 
No glue has been harmed as of yet, but the first bits of saw dust have been made.
 
So, welcome, pull up a chair, and look forward to seeing how this goes!

I understand that Harold Hahn wasn't trying to make his models as an example of actual framing practice, but I think he did err, at least visually, by making his frames too thin. On a real ship of war, the rules of "room and Space" dictated that here was always more wood than space all along the ship's frame. The opposite is true with all of Hahn's plans.

I understand that Harold Hahn wasn't trying to make his models as an example of actual framing practice, but I think he did err, at least visually, by making his frames too thin. On a real ship of war, the rules of "room and Space" dictated that here was always more wood than space all along the ship's frame. The opposite is true with all of Hahn's plans.

Seeing the post by Bob on the Crother's book AMERICAN-BUILT PACKETS AND FREIGHTERS OF THE 1850'S  (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5376-american-built-packets-and-freighters-of-the-1850s/?p=154501), I went on-line to see what my options are for buying (and to add to the wish list which I periodically send to my Admiral and kids).  Lo and behold, there is an additional title coming out this summer:
 
The Masting of American Merchant Sail in the 1850s
An Illustrated Study
 
Print ISBN: 978-0-7864-9399-9
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-4766-1569-1
ca. 45 photos, glossary, appendix, bibliography, index
softcover (8.5 x 11) 2014
 
Not Yet Published, Available Spring/Summer 2014
 
About the Book
This book describes the intricacies of construction and fabrication more than 150 years ago of masts and yards installed in American merchant vessels, particularly those spars which were "built" or composed of multiple pieces bound together by iron bands. These were referred to as "made" spars as opposed to spars which were constructed from a single tree. It also contains instructions for developing the shape and proportions of various spars. Very little information is available on this subject. Generally, the external sizes of individual spars can be found but intimate details are sorely neglected. In addition the book includes the spacing and location of masts in a ship, and the rake. It also includes a discussion of the types of wood that are most desirable in the construction of spars.
 
Price is listed as $55.00 at the McFarland website (http://www.mcfarlandpub.com/book-2.php?id=978-0-7864-9399-9) and also on Amazon.

While you are building HMS Surprise, you will be allowed to talk like Preserved Killick.
 
Example:
 
Wife: "Honey, dinners ready! Put down your little boat."
 
You: "Which I'm coming, ain't I? Bleedin' wife sez do this, do that, poor old Killick ... I'll trade her in for a new wench at the horse fair, see if I don't ... Er ... Nothing ... Coming Dear."

While you are building HMS Surprise, you will be allowed to talk like Preserved Killick.
 
Example:
 
Wife: "Honey, dinners ready! Put down your little boat."
 
You: "Which I'm coming, ain't I? Bleedin' wife sez do this, do that, poor old Killick ... I'll trade her in for a new wench at the horse fair, see if I don't ... Er ... Nothing ... Coming Dear."

TOMPIONS, LONG GUNS:
 
"Tompions,
 
One diameter of the bore of the piece in Length, and one tenth less than the diameter of the piece in diameter, with a gradual swell, one third the diameter of the bore of the piece towards the head.
 
To be made of white pine wood with a hole three tenths of an inch through the center lengthwise.
 
Caliber/Length in inches, tenths of an inch / Diameter Inches, tenths of an inch
 
42 Pdr,     7,  0  / 6, 9
32  "         6,  4  / 6, 3
24  "         5,  8  / 5, 7
18  "         5, 3 / 5, 2
12  "         4, 7  / 4, 6
 9   "         4, 2 / 4, 1
 6   "         3, 7 / 3, 6"
   
TWINE, LONG GUNS:
 
"Twine,
 
Twine sufficient to sew and sieze the bag of a stand of grape, nineteen times the diameter of the bore of the piece in length, part whipping and part sewing twine.
 
 
Caliber / Length in feet, inches, tenths of an inch
 
42 Pdr,  11, 1,  0
32  "      10, 1, 6
24  "        9, 2 , 2
18  "        8, 4, 7
12  "        7, 5, 3
 9   "        6, 7, 8
 6   "        5, 10, 3"
 
The above calculations are made on the caliber being as follows, Viz, 
 
42 Pdr, seven inches
32 Pdr, six inches and four tenths
24 Pdr, five inches and eight tenths
18 Pdr, five inches and three tenths
12 Pdr, four inches and seven tenths
  9 Pdr, four inches and two tenths
  6 Pdr, 3 inches and seven tenths
 
and the shot, two tenths of an inch less than the bore of the piece.
The rules for breechings, blocks, Hooks,  and thimbles, and tackle falls are not sufficiently accurate to have them made by but by adding or diminishing a few tenths accordingly to the discretions of the gunner, they will answer the purpose.
 
The passing boxes are intended to hold one cartridge."

BITT SCREWS, LONG GUN:
 
"Gun Furniture Continued.
 
Bitt Screw,
 
The screw to be two thirds the diameter of the bore of the piece in Length
Two thirds of an inch in diameter.
To be made of German Steel.
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter in the Clear, Inches 
   
42 Pdr,     4,  6 / 2 
32  "         4,  2 / 2 
24  "         3,  8 / 2 
18  "         3,  4 / 2 
12  "         3,   0 / 2 
 9   "         2,   8 /  2   
 6   "         2,   4 / 2 "
 
BITT HANDLES, LONG GUN:
 
"Bitt Handles
 
The handles, two thirds the diameter of the bore of the piece in length
To be made of seasoned oak, in the shape of a butchers steel handle
The bitt is to come through the handle and rivit on the upper part
Let the rivit be countersunk, with a copper firuly [A Ferrule, perhaps ? This is a metal ring or cap used to strengthen a slender wooden pole] on the lower part of the handle.]
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch 
   
42 Pdr,    4, 6  
32  "        4,  2  
24  "        3,  8  
18  "        3,  4  
12  "        3,  0 
 9   "        2,  8 
 6   "        2,  4 "
 
WORMS, LONG GUN:
 
"Worms,
 
The same diameter as the shot of the piece
One and three fourths the diameter of the bore of the piece in length
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter in the Clear, Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,    5,  1 / 6, 8
32  "        4,  8 / 6, 2
24  "        4,  2 / 5, 6
18  "        3,  9 / 5, 1
12  "         3,  6 / 4, 5
 9   "         3,  0/  4, 0
 6   "         2,  7 / 3, 5"

Next page. This document is not bound, nor are the pages numbered. I am listing them in the order given to me twenty years ago. Since all the Gun's dimensions are listed together separately from the Carronade's, I will assume that this is still in some logical order.
 
SPONGE BLOCK, LONG GUN: [Note: NOT Sponge Bob!]
 
"Sponges, Blocks,
 
The same diameter of the shot of the caliber below the caliber [of the piece].
[if ] the sponge is intended [to be] Viz. a 32-pounders sponge, [then the] blocks ought to be the diameter of a 24 pounder shot.
One and two thirds the diameter the diameter of the bore of the piece in length.
 
To be made of a poplar wood with a secret worms.
 
[i don't know what a 'secret worm' is, but the carronade's sponge block doesn't have one. Maybe he's a friend of Sponge Bob.]
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter in the Clear, Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,    11,  6 / 6, 2
32  "        10,  6 / 5, 6
24  "         9,  6 / 5, 1
18  "         8,  7 / 4, 5
12  "         8,  7 / 4, 0
 9   "         7,  0 /  3, 5
 6   "         6,  1 / 3, 2"
 
SPONGE STAFF, LONG GUN:

"Sponges, Staffs,
 
Three diameters of the bore of the piece longer than the bore of the piece [in Length - important omission!]
One fourth the Diameter of the bore of the piece in Diameter.
To be made of Ashe Wood.
 
Caliber/Length in feet, inches / Diameter Inches, tenths of an inch
 
42 Pdr,  11,  8  / 1, 7
32  "      10,  8  / 1, 6
24  "        9,  8  / 1, 4
18  "        8, 10 / 1, 3
12  "        7, 10 / 1, 2
 9   "        7,   0 / 1, 0
 6   "        6,   2 / 0, 9"
 
[Note: Above Identical to rammer staff dimensions, except for 6 pounders.]
 
SPIKES FOR TOMPIONS, LONG GUN:
[i'm not sure what this is ... Perhaps the tompion was hammered so hard in place to keep the water out, that they needed a chisel to remove it?]
 
 
"Spikes, for Tompions,
 
One and a half the diameter of the bore of the piece in Length.
One eighth the diameter of the bore of the piece in Diameter, with a smooth round head a narrow chisel end, a little turned up."
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter in the Clear, Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,    10,  5 / 9, 0
32  "         9,   6 / 8, 0
24  "         8,   7 / 7, 0
18  "         7,   9 / 6, 0
12  "         7,   0 / 6, 0
 9   "         6,   3/  5, 0
 6   "         5,   5 / 5, 0"

I found this document in the National Archives, "Record Group 45,, Office of Naval records and Library, Subject File, 1775-1910." Specifically in "Box Number 139", while researching my Johnston Blakeley biography. Since it looked kinda cool, I had a copy made. Good thing I did, because I don't believe such a document appears in print elsewhere.
 
The documents' full title is "Dimensions of Gun Furniture by Caliber and Length of the Gun, 1821-24." The authors name is not recorded.
 
It is very long, and I almost regret volunteering to transpose it here. But the information is very useful for ship modeling, especially in larger scales.
 
It is divided up separately for long-gun and carronades.
 
Although it is dated 1821-24, I believe it is applicable for all navies, plus or minus at least a generation, probably more. Note on the Staff Table below. They have assumed a length for a standard long gun of the period, but long guns vary greatly in length, and since the staff length is a function of the bore, the staff will be unique to that gun. (Example: There were long nine-pounders that vary in length from five feet long to nine feet long, and the staff must be long enough to push the charge all the way back).
 
I will be copying one page at a time, as time allows. Here it goes 
 
RAMMERS, LONG GUNS:
 
"Rammer Heads: The Same Diameter of the Shot. One and one half the diameter of the Bore of the piece in Length. To be made of seasoned oak. With a score to receive a copper [feruly ? [A Ferrule, perhaps? This is a metal ring or cap used to strengthen a slender wooden pole] on the end next to the staff, and another for a seizing.
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,  10,  5 / 6, 8
32  "        9,  6 / 6, 2
24  "        8,  7 / 5, 6
18  "        7,  9 / 5, 1
12  "        7,  0 / 4, 5
 9   "        6,  3/  4, 0
 6   "        5,  5 / 3, 5
 
 
Rammers, Staff: Three diameters of the bore of the piece longer than the bore of the piece, one fourth of the bore of the piece in diameter. To be made of Ashe Wood.
 
Caliber/Length in feet, inches / Diameter Inches, tenths of an inch
 
42 Pdr,  11,  8  / 1, 7
32  "      10,  8  / 1, 6
24  "        9,  8  / 1, 4
18  "        8, 10 / 1, 3
12  "        7, 10 / 1, 2
 9   "        7,   0 / 1, 0
 6   "        6,   2 / 0, 8"
 
Also on the same page,
 
PASSING BOXES, LONG GUNS:
 
"Passing Boxes
 
Two diameters of the bore of the piece in length and the diameter of the bore of the piece in the clear. To be made of leather, three parts, tanned [?].
They are to be slung with green hide, laid up as a piece of rattling. the cover to overlap two-fifths, the diameter of the bore of the piece. To be rivitted with copper rivits with a piece of poplar wood half an inch thick fixed in the bottom.
 
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter in the Clear, Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,    14,  0 / 7, 0
32  "        12,  8 / 6, 4
24  "        11,  6 / 5, 8
18  "        10,  6 / 5, 3
12  "         9,   4 / 4, 7
 9   "         8,   4/  4, 2
 6   "         7,   4 / 3, 7"

I have just such a handwritten document for the US Navy, circa 1820 for both "guns" and "carronades" . (Chorus: "Jeez Frolick, is there anything you don't have?") But it is too long to transpose it here, at least for now. Is there one item specifically that you're looking for?
 
Here's an example for match tubs:
 
Carronades:
 
"Match tubs: One and one half diameter of the bore of the piece in height; Two diameters of the bore of the piece is the diameter of the bottom; One and a half the diameter of the bore of the piece is the head; to have two iron hoops; the head sunk one inch in with the holes in it; the staves to be made of oak; head and bottom of pine."
 
Then there is a little table listed out to "tenths of an inch". 24-pounder Carronade tubs, for example, would be:
 
" Height 8 inches, 7 tenths;
Diameter of head 8 inches, 7 tenths;
Diameter of bottom 11 inches, 6 tenths."
 
I believe the 24-pounder's bore diameter is about 5 1/4 inches.
 
For long-guns match-tubs, the formula is different:
 
"Match Tubs: One and three fourths the diameter of the bore of the piece in height
Two and one fifth the bore of the diameter of the piece is the diameter of the bottom
One and three fourths the diameter of the bore of the piece is the diameter of the head. To be made of oak staves, the head and bottom of pine; 3 iron hoops; the head sunk in one inch, with three holes in it."
 
I assume that the carronade match-tubs would have had three holes also, even though is wasn't mentioned.
 
Therefore, from a separate table, a long 24-pounder's match tub would have been:
 
"Diameter of the head  10 inches, 0 tenths;
Diameter of the bottom  12 inches, 7 tenths; 
Height 10 inches, 0 tenths."

I just had a look at the Ordnance Instructions for the United States Navy, 1866:
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/19058/19058-h/19058-h.htm
Where all the things needed to service and fire the guns are listed. The gunner certainly had a lot of stuff in his inventory.
 
Per

PRIMING WIRES:
 "Two and a half the diameter of the bore of the piece in length from the back of the eye to the point and two tenths of an inch in diameter.
To be made of drawn wires.
The end which forms the eye to be welded to the others
The point with four squares
 [The last statements make little sense as written ...]
 
I suppose what they mean is that the point was square in section, like an old-fashioned ice pick. Makes sense if they use it to pierce the cartridge.
 
Per

This could mean that the eye was welded closed.

Hello Friends,
many thanks for your nice comments. This is the motivation for the next work.
 
Here is the continuation of the construction of the gun ports lids.
Based on the following pictures the next steps are clear.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As an addition to the previous images here illustrations showing the gun ports lids on the hull.
Please enjoy them:
 

 

Well, little did I think a year ago when I started my first wooden ship build that I'd ever be posting in the scratchbuild forum, but here I am.  I've been contemplating a scratch build since mid-summer 2013, from looking at all the wonderful scratch builds on MSW and from the amount of scratching I've been doing on my Conny build.  I wanted to try a scratch build. I think I have the woodworking skill as I've been building in wood my entire life.  The thing I still lack is detailed shipwright knowledge, but I'm learning...  The one thing I know for a fact though is a fully detailed POF build is not for me, I don't have the knowledge or time to do so.
 
I bought several books that everyone seems to quote as bibles for wooden shipbuilding, including Goodwin’s "Constructing an English Man of War".  Next was selecting a subject to model.  I first thought of the HMS Surprise, and bought “The Frigate Surprise” book to do some research.  I also thought of buying the Latina 1/48 Surprise kit and scratch-bashing that.  I then thought about the Essex.  I had been in contact with Sam Cassano about his MSW kit earlier and decided to ask his advice.  Not only did he offer any help he could, but also sent me a set of his drawings which I could use as a basis for my build drawings.  Sam’s kit is of Essex in her 1799 launch configuration, my attempt at Essex will be as close as I can come to her 1814 configuration at Valparaiso.  I bought Portia's AOTS Essex book and "The Frigate Essex Papers" which contain William Baker's wonderful drawings and Josiah Fox's detailed measurements of her from her 1807-09 rebuild.  I'd like to thank Sam Cassano and Steve, (Frolick on MSW) for giving me invaluable help on acquiring info and dwgs.
 
My build will be a POB, but with a different twist.  One side will be fully planked, but the other side will show her frames from somewhere near the bow to near the stern, and from a point several strakes above the garboard (I haven't determined where yet).  The reason I chose this method was to show her frames, but to not have to build all the intricate framing of the keel, floor timbers, deadwood, all cant frames (both bow and stern) etc.  There also won’t be any internal details below the gundeck.  This may seem to be cheating, or an "easy way out" solution, and I guess it is but for me it's the way to go.  I'm achieving this by placing plywood bulkheads at each frame location, but on the frame side I will cut off the ply and glue on hardwood frames, probably Pear.  This should give the look of individual frames and their futtocks from the outside, which is what I'm going for.  I chose 1/48 as the scale as I wanted to build in a larger scale.  It will be a big one, maybe bigger than I want, but 1/48 is what I’m going with.  I hope to fully mast and rig her, if I have the years and patience to do so….
 
I'm drawing my own build drawings, still a lot of work to do, and will post some images when they are far enough along.  I am cutting the center bulkhead and bulkhead blanks right now and will post pics when they're done.  It’s as much a proof of concept as it is a chance to get started!  Some may wonder how I can start building without completed drawings, but I pretty much have the design finished in my mind, I just have to create the dwgs so I can build her.
 
This may be a bumpy ride but we'll see where this goes!
 
Here is William Baker's dwg from 1808 or 9.  This is the overall configuration I'm going for.

 
Here is Baker's redrawn lines based on William Hackett's original draughts.  This is the dwg I used as the basis of my layout, along with Sam Casanno's dwgs.  I used Portia's framing dwg as a guide only.

 
(These are a gif and jpg, resized down from original size so I don't think I'm violating any copyrights by posting them)
 
Edit 4/15.
I decided to add a pic here at the very beginning of this log so future readers will know what the heck I'm doing.  Here are Essex's frames before I cut them down and sanded them.  I now call this method either the "alligator skin" or "Godzilla" method.  Looking at the frames before they're trimmed will show you why.


 
Reading through the beginning of the log where I'm just making frames and bulkheads I'm sure had a lot of you stumped as the what the heck I was making.  Hopefully this :before and after (frames) will give an idea.
Here's the hull after initial fairing.  Better, huh?


 
Edit 12/31/15
Here's after cant frames have been added and more fairing done.

 

I found this document in the National Archives, "Record Group 45,, Office of Naval records and Library, Subject File, 1775-1910." Specifically in "Box Number 139", while researching my Johnston Blakeley biography. Since it looked kinda cool, I had a copy made. Good thing I did, because I don't believe such a document appears in print elsewhere.
 
The documents' full title is "Dimensions of Gun Furniture by Caliber and Length of the Gun, 1821-24." The authors name is not recorded.
 
It is very long, and I almost regret volunteering to transpose it here. But the information is very useful for ship modeling, especially in larger scales.
 
It is divided up separately for long-gun and carronades.
 
Although it is dated 1821-24, I believe it is applicable for all navies, plus or minus at least a generation, probably more. Note on the Staff Table below. They have assumed a length for a standard long gun of the period, but long guns vary greatly in length, and since the staff length is a function of the bore, the staff will be unique to that gun. (Example: There were long nine-pounders that vary in length from five feet long to nine feet long, and the staff must be long enough to push the charge all the way back).
 
I will be copying one page at a time, as time allows. Here it goes 
 
RAMMERS, LONG GUNS:
 
"Rammer Heads: The Same Diameter of the Shot. One and one half the diameter of the Bore of the piece in Length. To be made of seasoned oak. With a score to receive a copper [feruly ? [A Ferrule, perhaps? This is a metal ring or cap used to strengthen a slender wooden pole] on the end next to the staff, and another for a seizing.
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,  10,  5 / 6, 8
32  "        9,  6 / 6, 2
24  "        8,  7 / 5, 6
18  "        7,  9 / 5, 1
12  "        7,  0 / 4, 5
 9   "        6,  3/  4, 0
 6   "        5,  5 / 3, 5
 
 
Rammers, Staff: Three diameters of the bore of the piece longer than the bore of the piece, one fourth of the bore of the piece in diameter. To be made of Ashe Wood.
 
Caliber/Length in feet, inches / Diameter Inches, tenths of an inch
 
42 Pdr,  11,  8  / 1, 7
32  "      10,  8  / 1, 6
24  "        9,  8  / 1, 4
18  "        8, 10 / 1, 3
12  "        7, 10 / 1, 2
 9   "        7,   0 / 1, 0
 6   "        6,   2 / 0, 8"
 
Also on the same page,
 
PASSING BOXES, LONG GUNS:
 
"Passing Boxes
 
Two diameters of the bore of the piece in length and the diameter of the bore of the piece in the clear. To be made of leather, three parts, tanned [?].
They are to be slung with green hide, laid up as a piece of rattling. the cover to overlap two-fifths, the diameter of the bore of the piece. To be rivitted with copper rivits with a piece of poplar wood half an inch thick fixed in the bottom.
 
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter in the Clear, Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,    14,  0 / 7, 0
32  "        12,  8 / 6, 4
24  "        11,  6 / 5, 8
18  "        10,  6 / 5, 3
12  "         9,   4 / 4, 7
 9   "         8,   4/  4, 2
 6   "         7,   4 / 3, 7"

HANDLES OF MALLETS FOR TOMPIONS, LONG GUNS:
 
"Two diameters of the bore of the piece in length.
the diameter of the outer end is one fourth the diameter of the bore of the piece.
The remaining part, one sixth.
 
To be made of oak or hickory.
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths / Diameter, Inner part Inches, Tenths / Diameter, Outer part Inches, Tenths
   
42 Pdr,    1,  2  /  1, 7 / 14, 0
32  "        1, 1  /  1, 6 /  12, 8
24  "        1,  0 /  1, 4 /  11, 6
18  "        0,  9 /  1, 3 /  10, 6
12  "        0,  8 /  1, 2 /   9, 4
 9   "        0  7  /  1, 0 /   8, 4
 6   "        0,  6 /  0, 9 /   7, 4"
   
 
MARLINE SUFFICIENT TO QUILT A STAND OF GRAPE:
 
"Nineteen times the diameter of the bore of the piece in length.
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Feet, Inches, Tenths of an inch 
 
42 Pdr,  11,   1 , 0  
32  "      10,   1,  6  
24  "        9,   2,  2  
18  "        8,   4,  7  
12  "        7,   5,  3  
 9   "        6,   7,  8  
 6   "        5, 10 , 3  "
   
PRIMING WIRES:
 "Two and a half the diameter of the bore of the piece in length from the back of the eye to the point and two tenths of an inch in diameter.
To be made of drawn wires.
The end which forms the eye to be welded to the others
The point with four squares
 [The last statements make little sense as written ...]
 
 
Caliber/ Length in Inches, Tenths of an inch / Diameter Inches, Tenths of an inch
   
42 Pdr,   17,  5 / 0, 2
32  "       16,  0 / 0, 2
24  "       14,  5 / 0, 2
18  "       13,  2 / 0, 2
12  "       11,  7 / 0, 2
 9   "       10,  5/  0, 2
 6   "         9,  2 / 0, 2 "