RMC

The ratlines are now started. For the lower masts there are only about  1,800 knots to go .
 
I decided to begin with  every 5 rows - the ones that stretch from the first to the last shroud. By doing this, I am hoping that the spacing of the shrouds will not be affected.  According to the instructions (I had almost forgotten about them) the spacing of the ratlines should be 5 to 6mm. I chose 6mm - more for sanity than authenticity. The fewer knots the better.  I began with a template and superimposed the knot-tying process over the template.
 
Here is the template.  The rows are horizontal (ie, parallel to the keel) , and the every fifth row - the longer rows - are marked heavily.

 
The few rows completed and pictured took about 40 minutes per row - what with a couple of mistakes and a certain amount of bad temper.  I found wetting the fine thread made it slightly easier to handle.  The half hitches were more likely to stay tied (though not invariably) and it was easier to get the right 'hang' of the thread. Once things seemed to be about right, I applied 50:50 white glue and water and made any needed adjustments (eg, tightening knots) while the glue was still wet.  That way, the adjustments stayed adjusted!
 
The following photo makes the rows towards the top look as if they are not parallel. In fact they are (after this photo was taken, I checked to make sure). The template had just fallen back a little as I had removed one of the clips holding it.
 
 

 
This shows things a little more clearly.
 

 

 
The process was about as relaxing and enjoyable as playing a bad round of golf, so I will finish the job a little at a time while working on other things. I'm hoping this may preserve what remains of my good humour and make me slightly easier to live with.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

The jeers for the foremast are now done. I can't now think of a reason not to fit the fore topmast.
 
The photo below has turned out to be quite poor, but I hope it gives the general idea.
 

 
The following photos show the jeers temporarily fitted.
 

 

 

 
With all the blocks hanging off the top as well, it's certainly looking rather crowded.
This is how the whole thing looks ready for the topmast.
 

 

 
 

The tops are now, I hope, at a stage where I can mount the respective topmasts.  The lifts for the yards are finished and the blocks on the caps are ready (at this stage I don't know what they will eventually do). These are all temporarily installed.  I have not yet put on the safety railings (they look as if they will get in the way at the moment), and it may be useful to do the jeers.  I have posted the following photos mainly to get some reaction regarding the readiness (or otherwise) to finally put up the topmasts. It seems to be easy to overlook some vital step that will be difficult to remedy later.
 
The mizzen top:
 

 
the main top;
 

 
and the fore top.
 

 
This is how it all looks.
 

 

 
Advice is invited.
 
 
 
 
 
 

The fore and main slings are now completed. If there is a trick in all of this, it is to make the sling the correct length. This requires the position of the respective yards
 
First, a loop is made.

 
The length from the loop to the eye is determined (see below).
 

 
The overall length of the sling is determined by taking the sling over the cap to join the first loop.
 

 

 
Here, the fore yard is temporarily attached to the mast. Holes have been drilled into the yard and the mast and a pin inserted to support the yard. The length can now be measured from the cap to the eye of the sling. See second photo above.
 

 

 

 
I hope I am now able to mount the fore and main topmasts.
 
I have now received the 0.62mm Syren thread, so now the first job is to complete the futtock shrouds for the mizzen - and then make another sling.
 
 

I have taken Jdieck's advice and started on the fore and main stays. This means that I will have to finish rigging the bowsprit, so I will have plenty to occupy me while (almost) avoiding the ratlines. The lops of the forestays are now done.  Serving the loops with their mouses (sic?) proved to be rather fiddly and the result could have been better. At least I have learned a few things and I hope to do a better job on the main stays.
 
Here is the mouse for the fore stay.  The end with the greater taper was done with a pencil sharpener (thanks Arthur).  With hindsight I should have made a greater taper on the other end. It would have made it easier to serve.
 

 

 
Here is the loop that fits around the mast, served and with the mouse.

 

 
The following photos show the fore and fore preventer stays loosely fitted around the mast. Things are obviously very crowded indeed and it is difficult to see just what is going on. It all looks like a bowl of demented spaghetti. Attaching the yards is going to be quite a job.
 
 

 

 
Here are the stays looped around the mast and all the previous rigging (jeers, shrouds etc.).  Is this correct?
 

 

 
I would have preferred to have the loops slightly larger, but the result is acceptable.

 
 
 
 

The ratlines are now started. For the lower masts there are only about  1,800 knots to go .
 
I decided to begin with  every 5 rows - the ones that stretch from the first to the last shroud. By doing this, I am hoping that the spacing of the shrouds will not be affected.  According to the instructions (I had almost forgotten about them) the spacing of the ratlines should be 5 to 6mm. I chose 6mm - more for sanity than authenticity. The fewer knots the better.  I began with a template and superimposed the knot-tying process over the template.
 
Here is the template.  The rows are horizontal (ie, parallel to the keel) , and the every fifth row - the longer rows - are marked heavily.

 
The few rows completed and pictured took about 40 minutes per row - what with a couple of mistakes and a certain amount of bad temper.  I found wetting the fine thread made it slightly easier to handle.  The half hitches were more likely to stay tied (though not invariably) and it was easier to get the right 'hang' of the thread. Once things seemed to be about right, I applied 50:50 white glue and water and made any needed adjustments (eg, tightening knots) while the glue was still wet.  That way, the adjustments stayed adjusted!
 
The following photo makes the rows towards the top look as if they are not parallel. In fact they are (after this photo was taken, I checked to make sure). The template had just fallen back a little as I had removed one of the clips holding it.
 
 

 
This shows things a little more clearly.
 

 

 
The process was about as relaxing and enjoyable as playing a bad round of golf, so I will finish the job a little at a time while working on other things. I'm hoping this may preserve what remains of my good humour and make me slightly easier to live with.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

I have put one of the figures in to one of the ship's boats as an experiment. Aside from the overload of oars, the same seems to be the case for the boarding pikes (there are a couple of dozen of them) and the anchors (half a dozen). I think in this case, less really is more. At the moment, nothing is glued down, but it does seem to me that putting all the stuff provided for the boats would be considerable over-kill. Comments are welcome.
 

 

 

 

 
This photo shows in the lower boat, four oars, two pikes and an anchor ( I hope eventually to do something a little more stylish with the anchor) - there doesn't appear to be much more that can be fitted in without appearing overly cluttered.
 

 
Now I have to think about where to put the Admiral ....

The ratlines are now started. For the lower masts there are only about  1,800 knots to go .
 
I decided to begin with  every 5 rows - the ones that stretch from the first to the last shroud. By doing this, I am hoping that the spacing of the shrouds will not be affected.  According to the instructions (I had almost forgotten about them) the spacing of the ratlines should be 5 to 6mm. I chose 6mm - more for sanity than authenticity. The fewer knots the better.  I began with a template and superimposed the knot-tying process over the template.
 
Here is the template.  The rows are horizontal (ie, parallel to the keel) , and the every fifth row - the longer rows - are marked heavily.

 
The few rows completed and pictured took about 40 minutes per row - what with a couple of mistakes and a certain amount of bad temper.  I found wetting the fine thread made it slightly easier to handle.  The half hitches were more likely to stay tied (though not invariably) and it was easier to get the right 'hang' of the thread. Once things seemed to be about right, I applied 50:50 white glue and water and made any needed adjustments (eg, tightening knots) while the glue was still wet.  That way, the adjustments stayed adjusted!
 
The following photo makes the rows towards the top look as if they are not parallel. In fact they are (after this photo was taken, I checked to make sure). The template had just fallen back a little as I had removed one of the clips holding it.
 
 

 
This shows things a little more clearly.
 

 

 
The process was about as relaxing and enjoyable as playing a bad round of golf, so I will finish the job a little at a time while working on other things. I'm hoping this may preserve what remains of my good humour and make me slightly easier to live with.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

I have decided to use a truss pendant to mount the crossjack to the mizzen mast. As Arthur pointed out, the plans are ambiguous in their treatment (two drawings; two different methods). I have also followed Peterssen and hope it turns out alright in the end.
 
The idea is simple: make a loop on the end of the thread, the length  of which will reach roughly to the deck; make a second separate loop with an eye through which the length of thread passes, and on the end of which is a double block. This will eventually lead to a single block attached to one of the channels towards the stern  (I haven't decided where just yet).

 

 

 
With ropes going every which way it is difficult to see what is going on, but I hope these give the general idea.
 

 

 
This shows the block on the end of the pendant, roughly where it will eventually  be when the whole thing is finally fitted.
 

 

 
I think my next step will be to put on the ratlines, something to which I have not been looking forward.

Thanks again Arthur.
 
I hope I have followed you correctly.  This is what the lanyard on the starboard side now looks like. I will not finally fix the lanyards until all are in place.
 

 

Lashing for deadeyes? Help needed.
 

 

 
I have decided to lash the deadeyes for the foremast shrouds - though at this stage not to finally fix them. The two photos above show how I propose to do the starboard side. The knot behind the deadeye  in the photos is behind the right eye facing (ie. the eye towards the stem). Is this correct? If so, on the port side would the knot be behind the eye towards the stern? (All the rope is left laying - whether this makes any difference ....)
 
 
Petersson's representations (again) seem to me to be inconsistent. This whole shroud business is driving me crazy.
 
Any assistance would be welcome.
 
 
Mort. thank you for the kind comment, and thanks all for the likes.

The ship's boats are finally lashed down. The result has been acceptable, though not as specified in the plans, and not without a few dramas. 
 
My modification of the position of the lashings is a result of the error I made some time ago in spacing the cross-member supports. As well, I ended up using a method different than the one I suggested to Arthur a couple of posts before this one.
 
Anyway, this works.
 
Each boat is fitted and lashed down separately. Do not glue all the boats down at once and then try to lash them down.  It may be possible, but at the least, the lashing would be quite difficult.
 
Before gluing each boat to its supports, lashings  were prepared with an eyelet fixed to one end, and on the other, an eyelet the position of which could be adjusted.  The fixed ends were glued to holes drilled beside the boats' supports on the starboard side of the model. The lashings were passed over the boat to holes drilled on the other side of the boat's support and the lengths appropriately adjusted to provide a firm fit. The boat at this stage was NOT glued down. Once the lengths of both lashings were properly adjusted, first the boat was glued down, and then the eyelets on the 'adjustable' end of the lashings were fixed to holes drilled in the cross-member supports.
 
The first three photos, I hope will give you the idea - though I seem to have put them in the wrong order.

 

 

 
This shows the adjustable end of the lashing.
 

 
Below is the middle boat temporarily fitted and the lashings adjusted.

 
If the boats are fitted sequentially in this manner, ready access is provided for fitting and gluing the eyelets on the right side of each boat. The following three photos show the boats complete.
 

 

 

The catharpins for the foremast shrouds are done, though there is a little touching-up to do. I found it a very fiddly job indeed. One mistake to avoid is to cut off the brass rod to the correct size.  This makes it difficult to tie the rod to the formost and rear shrouds.  Cut the rod larger than necessary, then when the rod is installed, cut it off to size.
 
In the process of all of this I bumped and damaged one of the catheads (I'm surprised I hadn't done it before this). While it wasn't knocked off completely, it ended up at a rather unsatisfactory angle. I was unable to completely restore it without causing further damage. The repair however is not too bad and I really don't think anyone (except me) would notice it.
 

 

 
The shrouds for the main mast are more or less complete. They have come out quite well, but I will give them a couple of days to settle down before tying off the lanyards. At the moment I think I'm shrouded out.
 

 

 

The main mast is now stepped and the the top has been mounted.
 
To make the sides of the top properly aligned fore and aft, a straight piece of wood strip was placed on one of the hounds (?) and the strip was sighted along the deck planking.
 
 

 

 
The fore top and main topmasts have been dry-fitted.
 

 

 

 
And I couldn't resist - the lanyard on the forward deadeye has been replaced.

The lanyards for the foremast shrouds are done - though I will not finally finish them off at this stage. The whole thing has been a (mainly self-inflicted) drama. I am quite pleased with the port side, not so pleased with  the starboard. One of the deadeyes there is a too high; one a too low, despite attempts to adjust them.  Redoing them is really not on.
 
I was not careful enough with the lengths of the wire spacers. I shall be more careful in future, though at this stage I feel as if I ever see another deadeye, it will be far too soon.
 
The following two photos show what I certainly hope is the correct way to do the lanyards. If it is not, please keep me in blissful ignorance.
 

 

 
Here is the starboard - I will probably redo the lanyard on the first set of deadeyes (on the right  side of the photo) as it is wound around the shroud three times - all the others are wound four.

 

 
and the port side.

 

I decided to try my luck with the slings. The thimbles were made using Arthur's method (AEW p.23).  As a result of an earlier mishap I had a comparatively  short length of thread already served for which there was no obvious application.  Well, waste not ....
 Both ends of the thread were sealed with a drop of medium CA. The thimble was then tied off  to the thread using a couple of overhand knots,  The were secured with dilute PVA and left to dry (actually I used my wife's hair dryer to speed things up).

 
Two or three mm from the end of the served thread, the serving was threaded though with a needle.

 

 
The loop is closed so the the two ends of the served thread butt against each other, then the whole lot is seized up to the thimble. The method is fairly easy and the result is quite acceptable, though not nearly a elegant as Arthur's - which is really beyond me.
 

 
This gives an idea of how it will look on a yard.
 

 

 
 
 
 

Having had enough of futtock shrouds for the time being, decided to start finishing off the masts.  The futtocks etc can wait for the new year. I am not at all happy with my tying off the futtock shrouds and will try to make them a bit more civilised. The problem has been the 01mm thread I have used (at least that's my excuse). It's very difficult  to control even when wet and that combined with the significant contours of the Syren thread, make things even more difficult. It is almost impossible to move a knot once tied, up or down the Syren rope.
 
I have now decided to buy some 0.2mm Syren thread and attempt to overlay the bindings I have already made. The Syren stuff is more managable. If it works I will use the Syren stuff on the remaining shrouds from the start. If it doesn't nothing is lost, but redoing the whole lot doesn't bear thinking about.
 
Finishing off the masts has had its own problems (my, this is a really good whinge).  Here I blame the plan (of course).
 
The cap into which the main topgallant mast fits would would 'grab' the topgallent mast around the octagonal section, rather than the circular section above it.I have measured and remeasured the masts and their dimensions are correct. Consequently I have repositioned the fid to be about 3mm higher than specified.  I found the  same problem with the mizzen.  The foremast was OK.
 

 
Just as an aside, all of the mast caps are laser cut lengthways.  This results in the 'round' holes in the caps being not round at all. To solve this problem I CAed some very thin wood strip to both halves of the caps, which resulted(with some filing) in a nice round hole to receive the upper mast. The square hole in the completed cap shown in the lower picture is for the top of the lower mast.  (I have squared the larger hole for all the caps - which seemed like a good idea at the time.)
 

 

 
Here, finally, are the three topgallant masts all dry-fitted.
 

 

 

 
I am not sure if it is a good idea to complete the masts now.  Advice is welcome.

The futtock shrouds for the mainmast are complete. It was another quite fiddly job where competent knot-tying is required. Unfortunately this is not my long suit. There is very little room between the shouds and the thin thread went everywhere but where I wanted it to go. Finally the only way I could make it behave was to apply 50:50 PVA:water to it as I bound the futtock shrouds to the main shrouds. The result is just acceptable.
 
I used a small bulldog clip as a weight on the futtock shrouds to maintain tension while attaching them.  The Syren thread I have been using also provided some thrills.  The sizes of the thread are specified in imperial measures .  For the futtock shrouds, the plan specifies 0.75mm thread. The nearest Syren thread converts to 0.88mm - not much difference. When I went to thread it through the holes in the hooks which are attached to the deadeyes, it wouldn't go through. I then put a drop of CA on the end of the thread to keep it from unravelling (something it does tend to do if you are not careful). This then made the thread fractionally thicker! I tried trimming the CAed end to a point.  No joy - again it unravelled..  By this time I was certainly not rejoicing. The answer was of course, an inspiration . Apply medium CA to about the last 5 or 6mm of the thread. While still wet, twist the end of thread so that it becomes tighter and thus. smaller diameter. A bit of CA on your fingers is neither here nor there; the CAed end went through the holes, and once through, the thread followed, though it was a close thing.
 
The following two photos  show the bulldog clip weighing down one of the futtock shrouds.

 
With threads going all over the place, I found it difficult to see what was going on. Some white paper placed behind the shrouds made things a little easier to see.
 

 
Finished.

 

 
 
PS: Len -thanks for the like. I hope things are going well for you.

The mizzen shrouds are finally finished - though towards the end of the rather painful process I had it more or less under control. Progress has been rather slow with a couple of smallish household disasters taking up quite a bit of time over the last couple of weeks.  Belatedly I found saturating the Syren thread for the lanyards made it behave reasonably well.  The thread for the shrouds is fairly stiff, and with serving, the thread becomes very stiff indeed.  A fair amount of tension (not too much) is needed to straighten it out.  The results are acceptable, though again one of the deadeyes is a mill or so lower than it should be.
 
The port side came out quite well.

 

 

 
The starboard, not quite so well.
 
 

 

 
The catharpins are yet to be done and that's something to look forward to.