harvey1847

Thank you all for the comments and likes.
 
Here is a small update.
Alexandru

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Some progress: the deck is planked and nailed and started to work on the rails.
 

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Hello all,
 
Since I decided not to do any rigging on my Victory model and since I already made the lower main mast and top I decided to start this small side project to use the parts I've already made and also to put at good use the rope machine I bought a while ago. Additionally this will break a bit the monotony of repetitive work on full hull Victory.
 
The section starts at the main mast and ends at the end of main channels and only from the quarter deck up. This allow me to do most of the main mast standing rigging - less the stays. Now I am imagining this project as the full main mast including the yards but no sails. This might change in the future.
 
Here are some pictures with the progress so far.
 
Regards, 
Alexandru

I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,
 
I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 
 
The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...
 
The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...
 
The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.
 
The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 
 
You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.
 
As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.
 
Best, G
 
 

Hi All!
 
304 hours into the journey and feeling good!
 
The photo below is not a pile of sticks to be played with like one of my powder monkey's thought.  They are the remaining 256 framing pieces awaiting shipment to the shipyard.  Prior to yard assembly, they will go through a quality check, drum sanding (my grizzly spindle sander arrives tomorrow), filing of the chock joints, and squaring of the ends.  I will remake any framing piece that does not pass muster. I will then organize them in zip lock backs and place them in a plastic file bin, along with thier template, pattern, and chocks while they wait for assembly. There will be another quality check after assembly, prior to installation.
 
My back of the envelope calculation is that there are about 1000 frame pieces, 550 chocks, and 50 keel/stem/stern assembly pieces at this point in the build.  I estimate that I will have a roughed in hull at 400 hours.  Not a bad way to spend 400 hours, if you ask me.
 

 
I hope to see another build of this ship on the forum in the near future.  It has been an amazing journey thus far.  I have seen my knowledge of ship design expand exponentially, my scroll saw skills are now dialed in and my enthusiasm is as strong as ever.  While personal results may varry, if you are looking to up your game, this is a ship to consider!
Best, G

What a beautiful work Ed!
 
Every single part is so well explain that in some way is like reading a book in fascicles delivered every single week…
 
I just could not resist to attached some pics from Charles G. David´s book (The Built-Up Ship Model). Has nothing to do with the YA but are quite inspirational pictures. The size of the ship is going to be amazing and fully framed!
 
Best wishes.
 
 
Daniel.
 

 

 

 
 

hi all
 
a very quick  update.
limber strakes and limber boards now done.....a bit of final sanding and scraping to do.
next up deck clamps and sweep ports.
cheers.....mick

Amalio Hello, I am very pleased that you've decided to show your work, please put photos from the start, but is not well understood the process of construction.
Best regards
Jose Rodriguez

I believe that what we see is a mold and he's adding the frames to the outside of it.   Here's the Google Translate for his post #3:
 
"My name is Amalio, and I am a passionate Spanish modeller dedicated to ship modeling for many years. I want to show a different way to build Enrramada a helmet. In this case a ship of seventy-four Spanish cannons called Montanes. It is not an unknown system but little used. It is about building an inner mold on which to be placing all the pieces that make up the frames. I think these pictures are sufficiently explanatory. I hope you like it. Thank you very much"

Hola a todos.
Mi nombre es Amalio, y soy un apasionado modelista español que se dedica al modelismo naval desde hace muchos años.
Quiero mostrar una forma diferente de construir la enrramada de un casco. En este caso un navío de setenta y cuatro cañones español llamado Montañes.
No es un sistema desconocido pero si poco utilizado. Se trata de construir un molde interior sobre el cual ir colocando todas las piezas que componen las cuadernas.
Creo que estas fotos son suficientemente explicativas.
Espero que os gusten.
Muchas gracias

Hi friends.
Danke an alle für die freundlichen Kommentare.
 
New images of the 74 Gun-Ship.
Outside paneling.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l   9

Hi friends,
 
construction mistake removes,
some accesories there made.
Karl

June 11 2016
 
I cut the frame steps into the port side of the aft deadwood and installed two more sections of the rising wood... and yes those are the two upper most transom pieces dry fitted into place.
 
The Wing Transom and the Filler Transom.
 
I intend to cut the other transom pieces but will not be fixing them in place permanently until I get the Stem Post (at the pointy end as my darling wife refers to it) in place.

Worked on the aft frame steps in the deadwood and stern post.
Finished one side with an error realised at the end... I went too high up on the stern post.
(I thought I was being so careful)
Now I must sleep on how to fix it... I have a couple ideas in mind.

Ok, time for the wales

I believe there may have been a fashion piece that covered the ends of the hull planking and the counter.    I'll have to search and find a picture as most builders seem to miss this...
 
You can see it here in the last pic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/?p=72229
 
I did that here on my ship but it's French.... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=374762
 
What most usually do is have the hull planks (and wales) cover the end of the counter planks.

Hey guys, I'm back again. I have been working on the stern and have come to working on the windows, and I'm happy to say that they are complete. They're not installed yet, the photo is just test fitting with a little rubber cement to hold it in place. The inner "tic-tac-toe" frames are made out of ebony, the outer window frames are mahogany like the rest of the ship. Ebony will also be used for the wales when I get to that point. So here we go...
 
Every inner window frame was cut all at once with a little jig that you can see on the right in the first picture. That let me measure only once, and keep all pieces identical for all seven windows across the back. The outer mahogany frames were cut individually for sizing to match the stern timbers. The rest is pretty straight forward for the assembly of them. The side windows I've got to figure out because there are no plans for those.

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 165 – Forecastle/Poop Pin Rails
 
Another small task was slipped in to break the monotony of deadeye chains and belaying pin turning.  In the first picture the forecastle pin rail has been made and is being used as a template to spot the centers of the posts on the deck.
 

 
The location is over a beam.  The posts will be set into square mortises cut into the deck to provide more strength to this type of rail.  In the next picture one of the mortises is being started with perimeter cuts using a small chisel.
 

 
The turned posts are 5” (.07”) square, turned as was done for the fife rail posts earlier.  In the next picture the two posts have been set and fitted with pins in the top to secure the rail.
 

 
In the next picture the rail has been installed and the six pins added.
 

 
This is a light duty rail, used to belay the four jib and fore staysail downhauls as well as the two foresail bowlines.
 
Providing belaying points for the running rigging of the mizzen mast proved to be a puzzle.  There are some two dozen light lines associated with the mizzen sails that need to be belayed aft of the mast, below the shroud fairleads through which they run, but with the lack of a raised bulwark on the poop there is no clear place for belaying pins.  The poop deck perimeter will be packed with cleats and lead blocks for heavier lines and the spider band around the mast is fully allocated.  The photo of the ship from the starboard quarter is not very helpful. Time for some historical interpretation – not the first or the last.  I believe there are four possibilities.  First, that the poop monkey rail itself was fitted with pins – unlikely given the small section of this brass rail.  Second, using shroud cleats, but these would be visible in the photo.  Third, using deck cleats as with the heavier lines, but the sheer number of these and the resulting mass of line piled on the deck argue against this.  I finally decided on the fourth option, pin rails similar to the forecastle rail along each side of the forward poop rails.  This was a common method.  The next picture shows one of these rails positioned on the deck to spot mortises for the three posts.
 

 
In the next picture the rail has been set as with the forecastle rail and a drop of CA is being applied to each of the vertical wire bolts.
 

 
The posts of all these rails were glued into the deck with wood glue and the tops with CA.  After applying the drops to the top of the rails it was washed off with acetone.  The bolts were later clipped off and the tops sanded.  The last picture shows the two rails installed with the rail on the near side already being fitted with pins.
 

 
The complement of belaying pins is almost complete – a few dozen to go.
 
 
Ed

Hello friends.
 
Artillery of the vessel 74. gunship.
Second batterie gun 18,pdr
Scale 1:15
 
Karl