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Daliab

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About Daliab

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bellevue, Nebraska USA
  • Interests
    woodworking, computers, now model boat building

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  1. GrandpaPhil I've looked throughout the instruction booklet, looked on this site, and even googled the subject on the internet. For the life of me I do not see how this is mounted on the bow. The figurehead comes in two pieces... don't see anything that the figurehead attaches to. How and to what is the figurehead glued to?
  2. Spent the weekend working on the bow section. The trim was a pain in the neck to put on. Learning a lot of little things that the multi-language instruction sheet didn't cover.... I guess they figured if there was a picture without mentioning it in the instructions would be enough. Notice the notch cut out on the bow where the figurehead would go? Anyone know why you notch the bow?
  3. GrandpaPhil.... here you go for your next build. It works great. 2 pieces held together with stovepipe bolts. Cut a channel that is just smaller than the thickness of your keel.
  4. GrandPhil Trying to learn from other's mistakes..... I'm trying get wrap my head around how your last two builds have became twisted. Was the mistake due to not having a brace holding the keel straight? Before I started the build on my Victory, there were lots of cautions about how to prevent builds from getting twisted. A couple of causes from what I read was not ensuring the keel was straight and the other was in the planking process. Planking: Only do a few planks on one side and then plank the opposite side in the same manner. As for the keel, I made my own keel clamp from pictures of someone else's on this website. (would give credit if I remembered who). I left the build in the vice until I was almost finished planking. Haven't had any issues that I can see. Message me and I can provide you additional pictures and text to make your own if you would like. Hope this helps you in the next build.
  5. Received the book Saturday that you recommended entitled Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Mondfeld. You were right.... the book is very informative and read half of it the first night. Lots of information that you can use on the Victory and other builds. Lots of little things that you wouldn't think of to put that extra bit of detail on your model. Thanks again for the recommendation.
  6. Attempted to dress up the stern of the Victory. As is, the back end did not have any depth to it and really looked flat. Still have to add the lamps, the flag emblem, the name plate etc but to me it looks a little better than it was. Don't know when the company changed the kit from etched brass to laser engraved ply. I will make sure that I will investigate to make sure the kit has what the advertised picture shows .
  7. I've had my Performax sander for almost 2 years now and bought it at Menards on one of their 11% rebates. Right now for those in the US, menards.com has them on sale for $39.99 with free shipping to a menards store. They are great for ship building! Other's have posted that it has a clamp so you can clamp it to the bench, others state that it has two speeds but in fact it is variable speed, and others state the sandpaper is easy to replace with stick on sandpapers. One thing I haven't seen from anyone's post is that this unit has an exhaust port that you can hook up a vac to. I use this in my den and never heard anything from the wife about this causing dust everywhere. For the price, it works for me in a pinch. As the character from Godfather's Pizza would say..... "Do it"
  8. Really happy the way the starboard brass gun port frames look. The extra time I spent making sure that the brass frames fit tight in the openings I cut with a #11 X-acto paid dividends. I wanted them flush to the sides. They popped right in without any issues.
  9. GrandpaPhil... thanks for the quick response. Big difference between your Vic and mine in the cabin structure layouts.... then realized yours is the same company but 1:98 scale and mine is 1:78 scale. The company made different structural changes from the 1:98 scale and 1:78 scale but we had the same outcome. From your build, the starboard side looked like it snugged up to the side nicely. The plywood piece on yours is also designed differently than mine. It is what it is. To late to change it now. It would destroy the model as it stands now by tearing the whole back cabins off and re-doing it. Besides if I did, it would destroy the laser cut cabins and I would have to scratch build the whole back end. This is only the second model that I've made and "scratch build" isn't in my vocabulary yet. When I come to that, I'll start off with something a little simpler. This is more like I was expecting. Again, thanks for your response.
  10. GrandpaPhil... looking at your build, I see the side cabin panels look like they fit nicely against the sides of your model. When you laid the second layer of planking, did you void that area of planks and ran the planks up to the thin plywood base? From the instructions, it showed the planking going all of the way under the cabin panels. I'm thinking I should have placed the plywood base on the supports first and ran the second planks up to the base..... not under. What say you?
  11. CAUTION: You can't judge a book from its cover. The same goes for selecting a model from the pictures on the box. The below pictures show what Manuta/Panart's HMS Victory #738 model should look and fit when finished.... NOT. Really not happy the way the stern ended up looking and fitting. The side cabins did not fit very well to the port/starboard sides of the model.... at least not to my liking. From other builds the side cabins are a hit and a miss depending on the manufacturer. I've seen a number of builds that people had to use small pieces of wood or putty to ramp up to the cabins from the sides to make a smooth transisition. I used putty. Without the putty, it would have looked worst. The side panels wouldn't have glued up to the sides and would have left a large gap showing. Just wouldn't have looked finished. Granted I haven't put on the 3D scroll work, figures, and trim that would help dress it up. Will see how it turns out as I move forward.
  12. It has taken almost 2 weeks to complete but.... I"m happy to report that I have finished adding copper tiles to the haul of the Victory. I still have to do the rudder but my fingers can use the break since I'm not at that part of the build yet.
  13. Recently read through you entire build. Enjoyed the trip. What caught my eye was your reference to a book entitled Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Mondfeld.... so much so I ordered it off the internet for $8. For $8 who could go wrong. Thanks for following my Victory build and all your positive comments. Should have the copper tiles completed today!
  14. Great build! I have plans for the Mayflower II that I picked up at the Pilgrim Plantation in Massachusetts and will try and scratch build it using coffee stirring sticks. Your build goes into much more detail that I will try duplicate. Again great build.
  15. Has anyone used these? On the last cruise we went on I saw these stirring sticks for your coffee. Look them up on the internet and found they were made of birch. Grabbed a bunch and will see if I can use them on the future build of the Mayflower II I plan on building after the HMS Victory build. I used similar sticks but much thinner for the decking on the Victory build. They look pretty good quality. To buy, they are less then $8 per thousand. https://www.amazon.com/Biodegradable-Birch-Beverage-Stirring-Compostable/dp/B07ZDJCJCJ/ref=asc_df_B07ZDJCJCJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385174789119&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6006631387319116463&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024577&hvtargid=pla-851211953503&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81511521074&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385174789119&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6006631387319116463&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024577&hvtargid=pla-851211953503

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