KenW
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So I made a tea kettle at 1:48. It's very small but not that hard to make. I generally avoid knives; every time there’s a breakage I’m holding my x-acto. Files and sanding sticks are best. Also, when I make something from a dowel, I don’t remove what I’m making until it’s as close to finished as possible. -
Thanks BD. I check it out.
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The sails will be printed on the starboard side only, along with the cloths. I made a stove a while ago, but I noticed that at a scale of 1:48, the bricks would be 18-21 inches long. Too big. So I made a new stove with bricks about 2 inches x 4 inches x 8 inches. I also added some coal bits and dry painted some coal residue. Now I need a kettle to brew tea.
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I attended my club meeting and did a small remote presentation of my model. They also pointed out that tea wasn't the best to use on the sails. They recommended sepia ink; which I ordered. Once it arrives I'll experiment and post the results. Watch this space.
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I also have a question about the sails I'm making. In one of my 'experiments' I added the reinforcing cloths attached to the leeches. Using pieces of Silk Span, they completely blended in. You can't see that they're there. However, on one of the photos on TomShipModel's presentation shows full sails he made and the reinforcing cloths look 'shaded'. I'm wondering how that shading was obtained. Any ideas are welcome.
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I’ve been experimenting with the sails. I wanted to have the bolt ropes outside the sails, but didn't want to sew them. So I got some “Tacky Glue” and, after folding the two outside sheets over, I glued a few bolt ropes onto the jib and lower foresail. But Tacky Glue attaches itself to my desktop as well as a piece of wax paper which makes using it difficult. And you can hardly see the rope. So I decided to put the rope inside the fold. Also I printed the boat name onto both sides of the upper foresail. The printing didn’t line up well, plus there were kinks in the sail, so I made a new set of sails. They aren’t finished yet but I enclose photos of my rejects. My question is: Should I have the name on both sides of the sail? Should both names be printed on top of each other? Or just one name on the starboard side?
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I’m back from a summer of disaster. But modeling can continue. I’ve cut the masts and gaffs and am starting to make sails. I’m using a composite of entries by TomShipModel from Chuck Pissaro’s Medway Longboat blog. It is found at: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28900-sails-for-a-cutter-rigged-long-boat-medway-longboat/ I cut out sails on paper to get the sizes right and drew the lines to simulate the sewing of the clothes. The boat has a mainsail, a foresail and a jib. A photo of my layouts is below. Now to actually make the sails from Silk Span.
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Thanks Allan. I’m not totally sure it’s too much easier except that I’m not cutting as many frames. Given my lack of power tools and my inexperience with them, I’m sure I’d have to spend a lot of time sanding and fairing. But so far, I’m enjoying the process. Just have to wait and see how it all comes out. Cheers.
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I’ve finished the frames excluding the bow and stern frames. I want to determine how to all these frames together before I decide how to create the bow and stern. Neither will be easy. To be honest, so far, nothing has been easy. But that’s what makes this whole project so interesting and fun. I have some photos of the frames lined up and it’s obvious that I will need a lot of sanding sticks before I even start to think of planking. Summer is almost over and I’ll be heading back to Brooklyn to continue working on the Pilot Boat Mary. I’ll try to divide my time between both models.
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So far I’ve made four frame sets with gunports and four sets with sweep ports. I used pieces of ½ inch square dowels to line them up the gunport frames. When placed upside down on two blocks of wood you can see the amount of fairing I’ll need to do. Another photo shows all the frame sets placed on the plans. Still have to make the spacers to fill in the spaces between them. Lots more work to do.
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I completed the first ‘set’ of frames that include a gunport. The frames are for the central port and include the two frames shown in my previous post plus a spacer that is the width of the gunport. A lot of sanding was done, and of course a lot more will be done when the hull is assembled and the sides are faired. So far so good. By the way - does anyone know if the original boat was painted? The photo in my first post looks like the wales are black. But if that so - and what about the rest? I’m trying to decide if I want a model completed in uncolored boxwood or paint it to show how the boat really looked. Thanks.
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I’m using the plans from the Nautical Research Guild for a POF model, but making some adjustments. I don’t have the skills or use of power tools so I’m going to make the model Plank-on-Bulkhead. Also, I’m going to follow the method described by Richard Simon in his article, “L’Egyptienne: A 1:160-scale 24-pounder frigate of 1799 (A work in progress)”. The article is in the Nautical Research Journal, Summer 2023, Vol. 68, No.2. After some study and thought, etc, I started with frames needed to make the gunport openings. First, I will use two frames that make up the outside (vertical) of the port. There will be notches for the upper and lower gun port ledges. The plan’s frames are very accurate for the shape of the hull. I’m going to make the upper portions of the insides a little wider in order to avoid accidentally breaking them. They will be sanded down once the outer planking is done. The portion of the frame below deck will be solid (or rough) and modified for the camber for the deck. Below are the frames for the center gun ports.
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Thanks Bill. I’m not building it POF, but rather POB. Stay tuned for the details. Cheers
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Modeling has been discontinued for the summer. I’ll be starting on a new project while vacationing away from Brooklyn’s heat. I’ll continue with the rigging in the fall. See you in September.
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The Continental Galley Washington was a lateen-rigged, two-masted row galley built in the autumn of 1776 on Lake Champlain at Skenesboro N.Y. On October 6 1776, she joined the small fleet established and commanded by Brigadier General Benedict Arnold. The fleet consisted of schooners Royal Savage, Revenge and Liberty. Also the sloop Enterprise, and 8 gundalows outfitted as gunboats: New Haven, Providence, Boston, Spitfire, Philadelphia, Connecticut, Jersey, New York, and the cutter Lee. Washington was among three galleys built, the others being the Congress and Trumbull. A Sketch of the New England Armed Vessels, in Valcure Bay on Lake Champlain as seen in the morning of 11 October 1776 A Contemporary watercolor drawing of the American line of battle by Charles Randle. In the drawing Washington is shown as the second ship from the left.
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I made a cradle for the model. I have some books showing models at the National Maritime Museum in London. I found one I liked and created a design, cut it out of basswood with my jeweler’s saw. Squared everything with a sanding stick, added some plastic spongy material, and applied some coats of Wipe-on-Poly.
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Moving on. I’ve almost finished the hull. I tried to improve the look of the bow with some wood filler. It came out better than I thought it would, but you can still see the problem. I reinforced the rail so it stands out from the hull and sanded both the deck and hull. I use several grades of sandpaper; in this case the final grade is 400 - very smooth. After a few coats of Wipe-on Poly, I’ll do a final sanding with 600 and then a few more coats. The same goes with the hatch coverings. I don't feel I can leave them open since I don’t know what’s in them.
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If you want to choose one, I like the tassels. That's my vote. Also there seems to be moulding below the counter.
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It's a beautiful masterpiece! Amazing!
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I'd be interesting in a middle size model; maybe 3/16 rather than 1/16. I don't know that my eyes would even be able to handle 1/8. Of course, this is taking the whole thing way beyond your intentions. Cheers.
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Thanks for the encouragement. I'll continue with the model and my postings. It'll be interesting to see how it all turns out. Cheers.
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It has been awhile, but I completed the planking of the hull. I had several problems. When I switched to the 1/16 inch planks, I still had trouble bending the planks to the necessary shape of the bow. This problem shows where the planks join the stem. So my choice was to either redo the planking, port and starboard, or try to fix it. I chose the second. The results are obvious below. I now think that this whole project was poorly conceived. Trying to make a model from a picture without plans was a bad idea. I’ve planked a boat’s hull with a ‘bowl bow’ before (the Independence). I think that if I had a proper plan the shape of the bow would be different. I am going to continue the build because I feel there are still lessons to be learned. I just may not show the model anywhere or to anyone.
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Correct. In the 'old' days a build log was called a 'blog'.
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Your blog is also a great course in model building. Your work is top drawer. Excellent. Cheers.
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