Jump to content

KenW

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,227

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Mike: I made the stove as well. It's a great, well made kit. Only problem I had are with those very small, and breakable, parts to hold the pulley system. Your effort looks great. Cheers.
  2. KenW
    I spent a great deal of the summer in the country without my model. But I survived and am happy to get back to work on the Providence. The first thing I noticed is that the main sail is a bit too short. So I took the sail down and made a new one. I like the longer sail and I think the furling produced a better look this time. After redoing the rigging, I added a tack line which is described in Lee’s and Antscherl. Now it’s time to move on to something new.
  3. KenW
    Well Done! Great carving. Cheers
  4. KenW
    Bob: I totally forgot that I followed this topic. I have a furled gaff topsail on my Independence. If you find my log, go to page 4, entry #107 - # 110 and you will see my discussion. For the actual rigging I used the source and diagram shown in your first entry. You need a halyard, a sheet and tack (which extends below the gaff). The sail is bent to the mast with a loose line. Once I accepted the fact that the bundle wasn’t the best looking, I no problems. Cheers.
  5. KenW
    Thanks Maury
  6. KenW
    Thanks Tom and Mike.
  7. KenW
    Thanks Thucydides. Furled sails aren’t that difficult. But, I didn’t attempt it until my third model. I was worried about other things. However, your model looks like it’s coming along great. Give it a try. Cheers.
  8. KenW
    The main sail is furled. I was worried about this, but it came out alright. It doesn’t look too much different than a photo I have of the replica’s furled sail. I also rigged the mainsail outhaul and the main sheet. I used the rigging plan shown in the Petersson book mentioned above; even though I know that rigging practices changed in around 1800 and all of Petersson’s examples are of ships after 1805. But, nothing is glued in place yet.
  9. KenW
    Next is to make the mainsail. I’m following the advice of someone that you should always do as much as possible OFF the boat. I noticed while doing my research that the holes I drilled in the boom and gaff jaws are wrong. They should not be vertical, but horizontal. So I used plastic wood to fill in the holes and drilled new ones. I had to make a “channel” on the inside of the jaws in order to add the parrals. I also added a block to the down-side for the mainsail outhaul rigging. This follows pages 99 and 111 of Petersson’s “Period Fore-And-Aft Craft. The block will be painted black as soon as the glue dries. I made the mainsail from the Wittholz plans; however, while I kept the length, I shortened the height. The sail was made from three layers of silk span. The middle layer had the ‘laces’ drawn with a pencil. The layers were glued together using white glue diluted with 10 parts water to 1 part glue. I ordered the wooden hoops from the Syren Cheerful model and they fit just fine. They were sown to the sail using a square lashing. I learned lashing from my days as a boy scout many, many, many years ago. I’m surprised I still remember how to do it. This photo shows the sail sowed to the gaff and the hoops slid down onto a piece of dowel the same diameter as the bottom of the mast. Next up is to furl that sail!
  10. KenW
    I really like those carvings. Well done!
  11. KenW
    Thanks Lou. Still thinking. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    Thanks Mike. Thanks to all the 'Likes'. Cheers.
  13. KenW
    Thanks Tom. The Providence models from the 1920s/1930s have various color patterns. No clear consensus. “See” you at the meeting tomorrow.
  14. KenW
    The boat is starting to look like a sailing ship. I made the mast, boom and gaff. I want to have furled sails on this model, as I’ve done on past models. This means that the main sail will be furled with the gaff lowered. For that reason, I have to work on the mast from the bottom up. First, the boom rest was added to the mast and the boom and gaff made. Next I’ll make the main sail and its mast hoops. Then the sail will be bent to the gaff. The gaff will then be lowered and the sail furled on the boom. Because that involves sliding the mast hoops down the mast, I can’t make the mast top since the hoops won’t fit over it. I also encountered a problem with the gaff. Usually the gaff is in its hoisted position. But now it will be lowered and the gaff jaw must be as wide as the mast at its widest part. The resulting jaw looks a little weird. (The gaff is on the right.) Now I want to consider whether I should paint the mast, boom and gaff black; as well as the jib boom. I’m trying to visualize the effect of all the masts and yards in black. I haven’t decided. I was even thinking of adding a little more black to the hull. It is supposed to be a black boat. Please comment.
  15. KenW
    Mike: You are doing a really good job on this model. Very precise workmanship. I like all the devices you create to assist in your project. Excellent.
  16. KenW
    Quick update: I added the bob sprint shrouds. I followed the usual connections - a thimble and hook to an eye bolt in the hull, to a dead eye up at the end of the bob sprint. Pretty straight forward.
  17. KenW
    All of the deadeyes, blocks and the open heart have been lashed to the bob sprint. Then the bob sprint was glued into place and the two bobstays rigged. Don’t worry, I corrected the placement of that pair of deadeyes for the bobstays. I’m basing my rigging on the standing rigging plan done by Charles Wittholz for the 1976 replica. He doesn’t have a dolphin striker, but has two bobstays instead. That seemed like a good solution to me.
  18. KenW
    So now that I have made some adequate line; it’s time to use it. The first use will be the various collars on the bow sprint. I’m attaching a photo of the bob sprint and jib boom. Also there is one collar for the bob sprint shroud, two collars for the two bob stays, one for the top mast and spreader braces, and one for the main mast stay.
  19. KenW
    Hey Mike. Looking good. Keep at it. Cheers.
  20. KenW
    Yesterday I made a real .035 line using 4 threads. It makes the line I made before with 3 threads look maybe like a .030. Today I made two lines of .025 using the Gutermann Mara 70 with 4 strands. It looks fine, although the second was tighter (and better) than the first. There is a difference working with the finer mara 70 thread, but I got used to it eventually. I’m now able to make an 11 foot line in about 30 minutes. The line today is using the proper color thread for running tarred line.
  21. KenW
    Thanks Chuck. The 'kinks' occur when I cut the tail stock loose. I just rubbed them down with my fingers and they went away. My latest was better. I think I'm getting the hang of it. Thanks Lou and Mike: I use Gutermann Mara all purpose thread. My first efforts were using Mara 30, three strands only. Chuck's list has four strands to get a proper .035. Tonight I tried making a four strand rope and it looks like the 'old' .035 thread. I do think I need more practice, however. Cheers.
  22. KenW
    My second official batch is better than yesterday’s. But, of course, rather than too loose, I think it’s probably too tight. I didn’t feel the back pull on the line when spinning from the tail stock, but I moved it back, and then forward, anyway. I tried to judge by how the rope twirled. When I released the line, it did kink-up, so I take that to means it was too tight. Check it out below.
  23. KenW
    Thanks Chuck. Now I know why you don't like to make rope. But I'll get used to it as I get more experienced. I assume you mean "more initial twists" on the head end, and "more final twists" on the tail end of the rope walk. Cheers.
  24. KenW
    My first effort at making line with the Syren Rope Walker! Actually my first effort was a total disaster so I don’t count that. I’m using the Guttermann maro thread in a color that was part of my ‘test’ to determine which color I wanted to use. I figure I can, if I get a first class line, use it on the bob stays since they will be served with the ‘chosen’ color. Anyway, looks good so far; I’ll try again tomorrow. The Rope Walk set up diagonally in my small shipyard: The first completed length of .035 line:
  25. KenW
    Excellent work.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...