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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Thanks Tom. The Providence models from the 1920s/1930s have various color patterns. No clear consensus. “See” you at the meeting tomorrow.
  2. KenW
    The boat is starting to look like a sailing ship. I made the mast, boom and gaff. I want to have furled sails on this model, as I’ve done on past models. This means that the main sail will be furled with the gaff lowered. For that reason, I have to work on the mast from the bottom up. First, the boom rest was added to the mast and the boom and gaff made. Next I’ll make the main sail and its mast hoops. Then the sail will be bent to the gaff. The gaff will then be lowered and the sail furled on the boom. Because that involves sliding the mast hoops down the mast, I can’t make the mast top since the hoops won’t fit over it. I also encountered a problem with the gaff. Usually the gaff is in its hoisted position. But now it will be lowered and the gaff jaw must be as wide as the mast at its widest part. The resulting jaw looks a little weird. (The gaff is on the right.) Now I want to consider whether I should paint the mast, boom and gaff black; as well as the jib boom. I’m trying to visualize the effect of all the masts and yards in black. I haven’t decided. I was even thinking of adding a little more black to the hull. It is supposed to be a black boat. Please comment.
  3. KenW
    Mike: You are doing a really good job on this model. Very precise workmanship. I like all the devices you create to assist in your project. Excellent.
  4. KenW
    Quick update: I added the bob sprint shrouds. I followed the usual connections - a thimble and hook to an eye bolt in the hull, to a dead eye up at the end of the bob sprint. Pretty straight forward.
  5. KenW
    All of the deadeyes, blocks and the open heart have been lashed to the bob sprint. Then the bob sprint was glued into place and the two bobstays rigged. Don’t worry, I corrected the placement of that pair of deadeyes for the bobstays. I’m basing my rigging on the standing rigging plan done by Charles Wittholz for the 1976 replica. He doesn’t have a dolphin striker, but has two bobstays instead. That seemed like a good solution to me.
  6. KenW
    So now that I have made some adequate line; it’s time to use it. The first use will be the various collars on the bow sprint. I’m attaching a photo of the bob sprint and jib boom. Also there is one collar for the bob sprint shroud, two collars for the two bob stays, one for the top mast and spreader braces, and one for the main mast stay.
  7. KenW
    Hey Mike. Looking good. Keep at it. Cheers.
  8. KenW
    Yesterday I made a real .035 line using 4 threads. It makes the line I made before with 3 threads look maybe like a .030. Today I made two lines of .025 using the Gutermann Mara 70 with 4 strands. It looks fine, although the second was tighter (and better) than the first. There is a difference working with the finer mara 70 thread, but I got used to it eventually. I’m now able to make an 11 foot line in about 30 minutes. The line today is using the proper color thread for running tarred line.
  9. KenW
    Thanks Chuck. The 'kinks' occur when I cut the tail stock loose. I just rubbed them down with my fingers and they went away. My latest was better. I think I'm getting the hang of it. Thanks Lou and Mike: I use Gutermann Mara all purpose thread. My first efforts were using Mara 30, three strands only. Chuck's list has four strands to get a proper .035. Tonight I tried making a four strand rope and it looks like the 'old' .035 thread. I do think I need more practice, however. Cheers.
  10. KenW
    My second official batch is better than yesterday’s. But, of course, rather than too loose, I think it’s probably too tight. I didn’t feel the back pull on the line when spinning from the tail stock, but I moved it back, and then forward, anyway. I tried to judge by how the rope twirled. When I released the line, it did kink-up, so I take that to means it was too tight. Check it out below.
  11. KenW
    Thanks Chuck. Now I know why you don't like to make rope. But I'll get used to it as I get more experienced. I assume you mean "more initial twists" on the head end, and "more final twists" on the tail end of the rope walk. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    My first effort at making line with the Syren Rope Walker! Actually my first effort was a total disaster so I don’t count that. I’m using the Guttermann maro thread in a color that was part of my ‘test’ to determine which color I wanted to use. I figure I can, if I get a first class line, use it on the bob stays since they will be served with the ‘chosen’ color. Anyway, looks good so far; I’ll try again tomorrow. The Rope Walk set up diagonally in my small shipyard: The first completed length of .035 line:
  13. KenW
    Excellent work.
  14. KenW
    Thanks Mike: Yes they are made from 3/32 wide 1/64 K&S brass strip (#815021 Flat bar). Thanks too for the 'likes'.
  15. KenW
    I decided that I didn’t like the look of only two ‘iron cranes’ per side. It seems too flimsy. So I made 4 more so there will now be one crane on each swivel support. The result looks much better.
  16. KenW
    Thanks Lou: I agree and plan on making the additional cranes this afternoon. The current setup just doesn't look right. At least to my eye. Thanks for the likes as well. Cheers.
  17. KenW
    I made the “crane irons over the quarters for oars”; as mentioned in the article, “The Ships of John Paul Jones”, by William Gilkerson in the Fall 1978 issue of, “Sea History”. His source was “A British intelligence report” describing the Providence/Katy in 1775. So, I designed and made two “crane Irons”, for each side and I hope they look right. The iron pieces are attached to the fore and aft swivel posts on both sides. I wonder, however, if I should make more irons so that there will be four per side. What I have looks fine, but I wonder if that’s enough to hold the oars in heavy seas. Two more irons on the ‘middle’ swivel posts might make the oars more secure. I’ve got to think about it.
  18. KenW
    Thanks Gary. I see in your "Downeast Salmon Wherry", that you are the oars expert. Your work is truly fantastic. Cheers.
  19. KenW
    I made the oars for the sweeps and the ship’s boat. I’m planning on four a side for the sweeps, which is one sweep between each gun. These oars are very big and will require two crewmen to man them. There are four smaller oars for the boat. The big oars were made in two pieces; and the smaller ones from one piece. I’m not drilling the sweep holes yet because I want to make sure the oars will not interfere with the shrouds. I will make the iron cranes at the quarters next.
  20. KenW
    Thanks Mike, Lou and Tom. I got the idea of the photos from Chuck's log of his Winchelsea model. Tom: I'm hoping to show my model at a live club meeting soon, and see your Liverpool live as well. Stay safe everyone. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    Well, the hull isn’t really done at all. I decided that the binnacle was too big. So, I removed it and made a smaller one. I saved the lantern and hung it behind the stairs to the quarter deck. And I felt I wouldn’t be able to make a new one small enough. So I decided that the lantern was removed from the binnacle to refill it with oil. I also added two doors to reduce the light put off by the lantern and even left one door ajar. The launch party will have to wait. I also added supports for the swivels. You can almost see the lantern hanging behind those stairs. I still have to make oars and sweeps, as well as the “crane rails on the quarters” to store the oars.
  22. KenW
    Great work Chuck! I really like that last photo. Cheers.
  23. KenW
    Enjoy your trip
  24. KenW
    Thanks Mike. I got it.
  25. KenW
    Great Mike. It looks like you will probably be interested in Box 7. Just a guess though. Let me know how you make out.

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