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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Planking of the starboard hull continues. However, I’m not pleased with how it’s going. You can see from the photo that the forward section and the aft section don’t ‘match’. It looks like a drop plank will be needed in the middle of the hull - a very unusual location for one. I went back and studied my planking process; from creating the paper strips at each bulkhead to the final installation of the wooden planks. I see problems throughout the entire process. So I’m going to start on the port side from the beginning. I’ll create new paper strips and try to more closely follow these strips and see the results. If, as I suspect, the port side comes out better, I’ll remove all the strakes from the starboard side and, again, start from the beginning. This is taking a whole lot longer than I originally planned. But there is no rush - I don’t have a boss with a due date standing over me. I think it was Augie that said, “It ain’t a hobby if you hurry.”
  2. KenW
    Thanks David, Gary and Allan. As a member of the Ship Model Society of NJ, I've read and printed all the tutorials by Chuck. I should return to his monthly workshops. (I hear he has started them up again.) Every time I take some planks off and replace them, I see an improvement.
  3. KenW
    Thanks for the photos Gary. They will be a help. The problem with my boat is that the bow has this "bowl" shape. But I like the idea of planking in sections. Hope your modeling is going well. Cheers.
  4. KenW
    Your workmanship is very impressive. I hope you continue this build. Cheers.
  5. KenW
    I'd like to see your photo. Someone told me this would be an interesting planking exercise, and he was right on. The stem is giving me the most problems; although I can't wait to see how it all looks when the two rows come together. Cheers.
  6. KenW
    Thanks Gary. I am still having trouble with the planks starting at the keel going "up" or down since the boat is upside-downside. Your belts may be just what I need. Cheers.
  7. KenW
    Well, I made my decision. I pulled the planks off the hull and will replace them with 1/16 thick strips. As I was advised, the thicker strips will bend, without breaking, to the extent I need. So far, I’ve installed 9 strakes and the results look much better. I’m going to start from the keel for the next strakes and, looking at the planking so far, it will be interesting when the two sets of strakes meet.
  8. KenW
    I’ve spent a lot of time trying to plank the hull. (Three attempts have been removed and replaced.) I’ve now got 7 strakes installed on the starboard side and I see problems with the overall look of the bow. The planks look OK (1st photo), but they are rising way too fast (second photo). I’ll need to use at least two drop planks in order to finish. The real solution is to use edge bent planks. However, I can't get the 1/32 inch thick, ⅛ inch wide cedar planks to bend enough; and the planks don’t hold to whatever bend I do achieve. I think my only solution is to order some sheets and cut strips out in the shape I need. If anyone has any advice, I’d appreciate it.
  9. KenW
    Again - Outstanding!
  10. KenW
    Before I started planking the hull, I wanted to put in the wood work around the deck. There is no rail. I used walnut, which is the same as the lining of the hatches. I’m happy with the result and think, so far, the hull looks a lot like the photo in the book. I still have to apply some Wipe-On Poly; and now the hull planking can now commence.
  11. KenW
    By the end of August I finished the final planking of the deck using boxwood. Each strip was shaped in an effort to reflect the shape of the deck. The covers of the hatches were made to conform to the painting of the boat (see my first entry). There’s also a gap for the bow sprint. Next up is planking the hull which I think will pose some interesting challenges.
  12. KenW
    I’ve fled Brooklyn for the much cooler woods of Northeastern Pennsylvania. But, I don’t have the software here that I have on my PC at home. So this is the entry that I would’ve made at the end of July. So far, I’ve been able to line the two main hatches with 1/32 walnut strips. The hatches will eventually have covers. And lines to “batten down the hatches.” The preliminary deck planking was done with 1/16 strips because I wanted to sand them down to achieve a raised center to allow water to drain off the deck. I feel that the hull’s deck is too flat. The pencil lines on the deck are to simulate the location of bulkheads and allow me to make the paper strips to plan the final deck planking
  13. KenW
    Thanks Dan. I’m spending the summer in the Poconos and haven’t been able update my blog in a while. I’ll be back in September to show my progress. Cheers.
  14. KenW
    Greg: What thread to you use to make your rope? Your crows feet look fantastic.
  15. KenW
    Just a quick update - I glued the two halves together including the sheet in the middle. No real problems except that I need to do more sanding. When I look at the shape of the hull, it looks fine; but when I hold it a certain way under a light, I see a slight ridge near the keel. That ridge must be removed. I know that when I plank the hull, it will become obvious. It’s best to solve the problem now.
  16. KenW
    A lot of progress to report. The four lifts of each half of the hull have had their preliminary sanding and are glued together. Both halves have also been sanded, although much more sanding is needed. The hull looks like a boat. Photos are attached. I am going to use some plastic wood or Gesso to fill in the cracks between the lifts. And I plan to have a sheet of 3/32 cedar down the middle that will form the stem and stern posts and the keel.
  17. KenW
    Absolutely Bruce. All are welcome. Also, advice appreciated. Cheers.
  18. KenW
    I’ve done a rough sanding of the port side lifts. The stern area gave me some trouble, but once I was able to ‘read’ the various views on the plans, everything seemed to make sense. The lifts need more sanding, but I want to wait until I have the other side done. The two sides have to match. Then the final sanding will be done after the lifts are glued together. I also have to decide on how to cut the deck hatches. And, based on my research, whether or not I want to make a small stove in the forward hatch. Advise is always welcome.
  19. KenW
    Really great work. Are you planning on what looks like a swivel post as part of your head? Cheers.
  20. KenW
    I can only echo what everyone has said. A truly outstanding model! No words can do it justice. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    Congratulations!
  22. KenW
    Making the lifts has begun. The four lifts are cut out, but more sanding is needed. Each piece must be as close to the plans as possible. That is the only way to insure that further sanding results in a properly shaped of the hull.
  23. KenW
    So I patched together some plans from the PILOTS book. I feel that this is necessary to come up with proper hull lines. I adjusted the plans so the model, at 1:48, translates to a boat with a length of 48 feet. The beam is 16 feet, and the draft is around 6 feet. I’m not sure exactly where the water line is at this point. I’m going to use the ‘lift method’, sometimes called the bread-and-butter method. I’ve made two halves of the first ‘lift’ (or the first slice of bread). It takes me a lot longer because I don’t have power tools. But I like making saw dust, plane dust and sand paper dust. The lifts are made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar. This bottom lift is just under a half inch on the stern end and a little over a quarter inch at the bow. That took awhile to make that smooth and have both halves match.
  24. KenW
    Thanks Clare. I can't wait to see what I come up with either. Cheers.
  25. KenW
    Thanks Roger. The book I mention has plans for several Virginia Pilot Boats. And, I don't plan on using any other name than Mary. I've cleared it with the Admiral. Cheers.

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