KenW
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Everything posted by KenW
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Thanks Mike. The stay line is home made. I used the Syren rope walk and recommended formulas. In the case of the fore stay it was made from Gutterman Mara 70, 4 strands. Cheers.- 238 replies
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Next up is the foremast staysail. I’m going to attempt to use hanks rather than just a metal ring. The hanks will be of metal, however, made to look like a wooden hank. I’m using 28 gauge black wire. First, I made the hanks and tied them with a very thin thread using a clove hitch. The hanks were placed over the fore stay, and each hank was tied using a hole made using a drill where the “cloths” joined. Add a little diluted white glue, trim the thread once the glue dries and cut off the exposed metal ends. Once all the hanks are done the sail looks ready to be furled. However, that will have to wait until after after I make another Medway stove.
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Hey Eric. Great to see you tonight. Great job. Cheers.
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Thanks Gary. Nice to meet you at the Northeast Conference. Cheers.
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I’m fully into the process of rigging the vessel. I’ve added the boom topping lift, the fore stay, the fore back stay and the jib stay. All of these lines were made using the rope I made using the Syren rope walk. Next I’m going to tie the rat lines; but I’m leaving the shrouds still attached with the wires. Just in case I need to move them out of the way as rigging continues. Also, the lines tied to the belaying pins are not glued or trimmed.
- 238 replies
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I agree with Glen. I've had no problem with the standard WOP. I just wanted to warn people that there are two versions. I would recommend avoiding the water based. And make sure you sand the area smooth - use 400 grit or finer. Cheers.
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- syren ship model
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I would advise against Acrylic Wipe-on-Poly. I got that version by mistake awhile back. Cheers.
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- syren ship model
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The number of guns on the Providence changed during its lifetime. When it was converted from a merchant, it "took" 6 guns from British stores. So, at first, it had 6 guns. By the time command was given to JP Jones in Jan., 1776, she had "acquired" 10 guns. When she was destroyed at Penobscot, she reportedly had 14. I initially had the projections from the quarterdeck, but didn't like the look of it. Other models done in the 1930s didn't have that either. My choice. My model will have a ships boat hanging from the stern. Thanks for your comments.
- 238 replies
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Thanks Lou and Mike. "Plagiarize! Let no one else's work evade your eyes!" Cheers.
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Back to the Providence. I added the shrouds to the port and starboard sides.They have not been tied off yet. I’m thinking I may want to undo them when trying to rig lines in the future.I’m thinking that I won’t add the ratlines before securing the shrouds.
- 238 replies
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And now for something completely different. I made the Winchelsea stove from Chuck Passaro’s kit. The stove will be a great knick-knack for my oldest son’s desk or shelf. Like all Syren kits,the parts are precision cut and fairly easy to assemble. Some parts are very small and will break so care is needed. Fortunately, extra pieces for those tricky parts are supplied. Now, of course, I’m going to have to make another one for my youngest son.
- 238 replies
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I made the main mast trestle trees and hounds/bibbs. Before I glued them to the mast, I made the spreader yard (similar to the mizzen cross jack) because I want to make the truss, which ties the yard to the mast, while the yard is off the model. A sling block and two quarter blocks are also stropped to the center of the yard which will be used later. Then the yard is lowered over the mast head and the trestle trees and hounds are glued in place. The mast itself and the yard are still not glued - in fact, I don’t plan on gluing either, but rather let the rigging keep everything properly lined up. I also rigged the gaff throat and peak hallards.
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Mike: I made the stove as well. It's a great, well made kit. Only problem I had are with those very small, and breakable, parts to hold the pulley system. Your effort looks great. Cheers.
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- winchelsea
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I spent a great deal of the summer in the country without my model. But I survived and am happy to get back to work on the Providence. The first thing I noticed is that the main sail is a bit too short. So I took the sail down and made a new one. I like the longer sail and I think the furling produced a better look this time. After redoing the rigging, I added a tack line which is described in Lee’s and Antscherl. Now it’s time to move on to something new.
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Well Done! Great carving. Cheers
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Bob: I totally forgot that I followed this topic. I have a furled gaff topsail on my Independence. If you find my log, go to page 4, entry #107 - # 110 and you will see my discussion. For the actual rigging I used the source and diagram shown in your first entry. You need a halyard, a sheet and tack (which extends below the gaff). The sail is bent to the mast with a loose line. Once I accepted the fact that the bundle wasn’t the best looking, I no problems. Cheers.
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Thanks Thucydides. Furled sails aren’t that difficult. But, I didn’t attempt it until my third model. I was worried about other things. However, your model looks like it’s coming along great. Give it a try. Cheers.
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The main sail is furled. I was worried about this, but it came out alright. It doesn’t look too much different than a photo I have of the replica’s furled sail. I also rigged the mainsail outhaul and the main sheet. I used the rigging plan shown in the Petersson book mentioned above; even though I know that rigging practices changed in around 1800 and all of Petersson’s examples are of ships after 1805. But, nothing is glued in place yet.
- 238 replies
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Next is to make the mainsail. I’m following the advice of someone that you should always do as much as possible OFF the boat. I noticed while doing my research that the holes I drilled in the boom and gaff jaws are wrong. They should not be vertical, but horizontal. So I used plastic wood to fill in the holes and drilled new ones. I had to make a “channel” on the inside of the jaws in order to add the parrals. I also added a block to the down-side for the mainsail outhaul rigging. This follows pages 99 and 111 of Petersson’s “Period Fore-And-Aft Craft. The block will be painted black as soon as the glue dries. I made the mainsail from the Wittholz plans; however, while I kept the length, I shortened the height. The sail was made from three layers of silk span. The middle layer had the ‘laces’ drawn with a pencil. The layers were glued together using white glue diluted with 10 parts water to 1 part glue. I ordered the wooden hoops from the Syren Cheerful model and they fit just fine. They were sown to the sail using a square lashing. I learned lashing from my days as a boy scout many, many, many years ago. I’m surprised I still remember how to do it. This photo shows the sail sowed to the gaff and the hoops slid down onto a piece of dowel the same diameter as the bottom of the mast. Next up is to furl that sail!
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I really like those carvings. Well done!
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