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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Keep the long explanations coming. At some point, I'll look back and remember and praise your thoroughness. Thanks.
  2. KenW
    Thanks for the kind words Tom and Gary. Cheers.
  3. KenW
    The latest update is the carved anchors. I carved them from a 3/32 sheet of boxwood. I once tried to carve anchors out of basswood but always got the inevitable split along the grain. Anyway, an attached photo shows the steps in the process. The anchor on the left is cut from a jeweler’s saw. I use files to reduce the anchor so it looks like the middle one. And sand/file some more and add the carved ‘blades’. The second photo has the completed anchors. I still have to make buoys and the lines for them. And, of course, attach them to the boat along with the anchor cables. So much to do.
  4. KenW
    Always great to follow one your builds. Looking forward to it. Cheers.
  5. KenW
    I have made the rope coils and glued down all the lines to their belaying pins. The shrouds and back stays are also tied down. I still don’t like the coils, but these are the best I’ve done. I’ll try some new ideas for my next model. I also redid the photo of the boat with the sweeps out. I realized that the jolly boat also has oars. So I put those oars on the small boat and edited the last post.
  6. KenW
    You are really doing excellent work on this model. Very impressive!
  7. KenW
    Thanks Lou and Brian. I intend to stow the oars, but not tie them down with glue so that they could be released. The flag will be on a pole that would be taken down when the boat is under sail. There will be a eye bolt and block to raise the flag on the gaff. Cheers.
  8. KenW
    I’ve been remiss with my posting, but my current status has the rigging, for the most part, done. I still have a few lines to do; and, of course, I need to trim all the excess and add rope coils. I also have to make adjustments so the yards are positioned correctly. That will be done as I tie the lines down permanently. The whole mast structure is surprisingly tall. I’m told that is common with American boats. I also drilled the sweep holes into the hull. I was very reluctant to do that, but it turned out O.K. The oars even fit through the holes (oar blades as well). I do need to get a good camera. My iPhone(8) doesn’t take photos that well.
  9. KenW
    I made some changes to the rigging of the traveler to reflect my research. I just added a long block which enables the line to lie further away from the jib down haul and the bow sprint cap.
  10. KenW
    What kind of CA do you use? You work looks great. Cheers
  11. KenW
    I finished furling the jib. It looks OK, but I’m not yet sure how I will belay the staysail and jib sheets. I added (not glued) two timber heads, but I may not use both. I’m still thinking and trying different solutions. There aren’t many books on fore and aft boats.
  12. KenW
    The ‘fore’ staysail has been furled. I had to try three different positions before I found one that I liked. Again the lines - halyard, downlauler, and sheets - are not belayed to their final location in the forecastle.
  13. KenW
    Thanks Mike. The stay line is home made. I used the Syren rope walk and recommended formulas. In the case of the fore stay it was made from Gutterman Mara 70, 4 strands. Cheers.
  14. KenW
    Next up is the foremast staysail. I’m going to attempt to use hanks rather than just a metal ring. The hanks will be of metal, however, made to look like a wooden hank. I’m using 28 gauge black wire. First, I made the hanks and tied them with a very thin thread using a clove hitch. The hanks were placed over the fore stay, and each hank was tied using a hole made using a drill where the “cloths” joined. Add a little diluted white glue, trim the thread once the glue dries and cut off the exposed metal ends. Once all the hanks are done the sail looks ready to be furled. However, that will have to wait until after after I make another Medway stove.
  15. KenW
    Hey Eric. Great to see you tonight. Great job. Cheers.
  16. KenW
    Thanks Gary. Nice to meet you at the Northeast Conference. Cheers.
  17. KenW
    Planking looks excellent! And it's not easy. Yours is outstanding.
  18. KenW
    I’m fully into the process of rigging the vessel. I’ve added the boom topping lift, the fore stay, the fore back stay and the jib stay. All of these lines were made using the rope I made using the Syren rope walk. Next I’m going to tie the rat lines; but I’m leaving the shrouds still attached with the wires. Just in case I need to move them out of the way as rigging continues. Also, the lines tied to the belaying pins are not glued or trimmed.
  19. KenW
    I agree with Glen. I've had no problem with the standard WOP. I just wanted to warn people that there are two versions. I would recommend avoiding the water based. And make sure you sand the area smooth - use 400 grit or finer. Cheers.
  20. KenW
    I would advise against Acrylic Wipe-on-Poly. I got that version by mistake awhile back. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    The number of guns on the Providence changed during its lifetime. When it was converted from a merchant, it "took" 6 guns from British stores. So, at first, it had 6 guns. By the time command was given to JP Jones in Jan., 1776, she had "acquired" 10 guns. When she was destroyed at Penobscot, she reportedly had 14. I initially had the projections from the quarterdeck, but didn't like the look of it. Other models done in the 1930s didn't have that either. My choice. My model will have a ships boat hanging from the stern. Thanks for your comments.
  22. KenW
    Thanks Lou and Mike. "Plagiarize! Let no one else's work evade your eyes!" Cheers.
  23. KenW
    Back to the Providence. I added the shrouds to the port and starboard sides.They have not been tied off yet. I’m thinking I may want to undo them when trying to rig lines in the future.I’m thinking that I won’t add the ratlines before securing the shrouds.
  24. KenW
    And now for something completely different. I made the Winchelsea stove from Chuck Passaro’s kit. The stove will be a great knick-knack for my oldest son’s desk or shelf. Like all Syren kits,the parts are precision cut and fairly easy to assemble. Some parts are very small and will break so care is needed. Fortunately, extra pieces for those tricky parts are supplied. Now, of course, I’m going to have to make another one for my youngest son.
  25. KenW
    I made the main mast trestle trees and hounds/bibbs. Before I glued them to the mast, I made the spreader yard (similar to the mizzen cross jack) because I want to make the truss, which ties the yard to the mast, while the yard is off the model. A sling block and two quarter blocks are also stropped to the center of the yard which will be used later. Then the yard is lowered over the mast head and the trestle trees and hounds are glued in place. The mast itself and the yard are still not glued - in fact, I don’t plan on gluing either, but rather let the rigging keep everything properly lined up. I also rigged the gaff throat and peak hallards.

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