KenW

davits, catheads , tiller

I have made some planking pins using a 1 1/2 inch straight pin.  Its bent and soldered at the bends in order to hold the planks onto the bulkheads while the glue dries. I have been using these pins for years on double plank builds,  keeps me from putting holes in the final planking. 

A couple of small pieces of progress. First, I planked around the outer side of the stern windows and painted that planking black. Secondly, I began the cabinetry in the Great Cabin. The planking followed my practice of using boxwood and was straight forward and quick.
 
The cabinetry is to be done following drawings in the Essex AOTS by Portia Takakjian. It will consist of an enclosure under the windows and two cushioned benches and a doored cabinet in front of that enclosure. I made the enclosure from boxwood sheet and strip to fit the space and finished it with Wipe-on Poly. I won't do the other items until after the deck planking has been done. 
 
I'm now working on the margin planks for the deck planking and will follow that with the remainder of that planking.
 
Bob

I finished the starboard side of the outer bulwark planking and wales, and there were several problems.  I had almost completed the planking above the black strake when I realized I had used 1/16th planks when they should be 1/32nd.  So I had to tear everything down and start again.  The thinner planks do look better; but I left the thicker planks as the door on the unused gun port.  I like the look better, even though I realize it’s probably not historically accurate.  Also, the fashion piece had to be redone since the first one was too small and not adequate at all.  On the finished starboard planking, I left the new fashion piece and the wales extending beyond the counter.  They will be trimmed once the counter planks have been added.  The ochre planks are boxwood and I will leave them unpainted.  That is a big step from my last (and first) build; so I am pleased with the results so far.
Ship building definitely slows down during the holiday season.
 

I've done the stern windows and the inner stern planking around the windows. Since I wanted to have something that would look right on both the inside and outside and since the kit provided 10 laser cut frames for the 5 windows, I decided to do something a little different. I decided to build up window "sandwiches", consisting of 2 frames with a piece of clear plastic between them (I'm sure that I've seen this done somewhere on MSW). With some thickness sanding, this created a perfect fit for the depth of the stern frames.
 
As I had indicated early in this log, the width of the stern frames was excessive and this required some careful filing to open the spaces between the frames to get the window frames to fit. The window frames were painted white after they were sanded to fit. I then glued in the outside window frames, placed the the clear plastic behind them and then glued in the inside frames. This was all going well until somehow I managed to have an inside frame jump out of my grasp and become a permanent resident of the ship's hold. As a result, I had to make a replacement from strip wood. Thankfully, it's on the side that will be covered by deck planking and not visible.
 
After the windows were installed, I chose to do the planking around them on the inside. This was done with boxwood, finished with Wipe-on Poly. I've started on the Great Cabin cabinetry. That and the exterior planking around the windows will be the next update.
 
Bob
 
 

all together to simulate a actual cannonade

Thanks, Hamilton. I really had been hoping for others to do the build at the same time so that we could help push each other along. Having said that, Terry I think you made the right choice. Good luck with the Emma.
 
The bulwark planking on the port side is now done. Everything was done the same as on the other side. As usual, having done it once made the second effort go a little quicker and easier, though I have to admit that knowing that more of it would remain visible probably made me a bit more careful this time.
 
My plan is to now do the stern windows and finish the outer stern planking, and then do the inner stern planking and cabinetry. That will be followed by the gun deck planking. 
 
Bob

Gun Carriages (scratch-built) - continued
 
Assembly of the carriages is underway.  Placement of the brackets on the axles is aided by a typical jig on a copy of the plans.
 

 
 

 
 
Though not really visible, I used copper wire blackened with liver of sulphur instead of brass (taking a cue from Ed Tosti), for the rods that support the carriage beds.  I also plan to use copper and LOS for the carriage bolts, eyebolts, and rings.
 
 

 
 
Trucks are being added.  Axle pins are Swiss pear drawn through the smallest hole on the Byrnes draw plate.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
These are proving to be very time consuming items to make – fortunately there are only eighteen!  The process continues …
 
Robert

Thanks.  I am using a 74.  Can you order just one size from someplace?  Or, do you have to order a whole set for just one bit?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Ken:
Yes, the block is just glued to the cothes pin. That worked fairly well, but not as good as some other home made clamps I have used.
Honestly, the best clamps I used on this model were the metal paper clips.
 
I was fortunate that I usually only needed a few seconds of finger pressure to set the planks. The clamps were a luxury rather than a necessity. Part of that is due to the small planks, wet bending, and the carpenter's glue, but there is also the hull form to consider. No really sharp bends etc with which to contend.
 
Russ

I have now completed one side of the inner bulwark planking. To begin with, I added some filler pieces to the edge of the false deck to cover up the sizing errors. I used material from the laser cut sheet from which the deck had come. After that, I cut, and bent as necessary, boxwood planks for the spirketting below the gun ports and installed them. Following that, I made up three plank units of boxwood to fit between the gun ports for the quickwork and installed them. Lastly, I did the boxwood planks for the waist, forecastle and quarterdeck clamps. Planking of the forecastle and quarterdeck bulwarks will be left until the framing for those decks is installed later.
 
All of the planking has caulking simulated with pencil on one edge and one end of each plank. I did not do any treenailing since I expect to plank this side of the upper decks and such work will be totally invisible. The caulking was done out of force of habit, although it too will not be seen. I finished the work with a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
 
I'm now starting on the other side, which will be at least partly visible after the upper deck framing and planking.
 
Bob

Thanks russ.  I attach another photo that takes a closer look at the treenails.  They aren't perfect, but probably not noticeable to anyone who doesn't build models.
 

Thanks russ.  I attach another photo that takes a closer look at the treenails.  They aren't perfect, but probably not noticeable to anyone who doesn't build models.
 

I finished the planking the deck and drilled all the treenails.  I decided to follow the color scheme of the Roberts Collection model; at least to a point.  Chuck Passsaro has placed photos from his trip to Annapolis in the Gallery section under, “Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections.”   I should go down to Annapolis myself since it isn't that far.
Next up is to plank the outer hull along with the wales.
You can get to Chuck’s photos from here: 
     ‘http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/448-fair-american-rogers-collection-annapolis/’.

I finished the planking the deck and drilled all the treenails.  I decided to follow the color scheme of the Roberts Collection model; at least to a point.  Chuck Passsaro has placed photos from his trip to Annapolis in the Gallery section under, “Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections.”   I should go down to Annapolis myself since it isn't that far.
Next up is to plank the outer hull along with the wales.
You can get to Chuck’s photos from here: 
     ‘http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/448-fair-american-rogers-collection-annapolis/’.

The cabin front is created.  I followed the plans that show a planked housing and the door is my own design.  For the window ‘glass’, I used the window from window envelopes.  Since all my monthly bills come in window envelops, I have an unlimited supply.  The glue called, Krazy Glue, sold here in the states, holds the ‘glass’ in place.  I put the molding across the entire front because, to me, it looks like a coaming that keeps water out of the cabin.  That means that the door must open inwards and that means the hinges are on the other side of the door.
 

The cabin front is created.  I followed the plans that show a planked housing and the door is my own design.  For the window ‘glass’, I used the window from window envelopes.  Since all my monthly bills come in window envelops, I have an unlimited supply.  The glue called, Krazy Glue, sold here in the states, holds the ‘glass’ in place.  I put the molding across the entire front because, to me, it looks like a coaming that keeps water out of the cabin.  That means that the door must open inwards and that means the hinges are on the other side of the door.
 

I am still waiting for the replacement center keel from Model Expo so I decided to make the cannon carriages. It should be easier for me to correctly frame the gun ports, when I reach that point in the building process, by having some completed carriages.
 
The gun carriages are made from laser cut parts: 2 side parts, a bottom part that contains the axles and 4 trucks.  Unfortunately, all the parts are made from basswood which splits easily.  I had 3-4 axles break off and one truck split apart.  These parts are very small and do not glue back together easily so I just glued trucks over where the axles were and cut a new truck (which was not easy) from spare basswood.
 
The motto here is that it is not the deficiencies of the kit or the mistakes made which are important, but the strategies created to overcome the issues and enable model building to continue.
 
Anyway, I attach photos of the carriages in various stages of completion.  The barrel is not glued as yet and still needs to be painted black.  The trunnion was made from a toothpick slimmed down.  I made quoin beds and quoins; however I may not use the quoins depending on the height of the barrel vs. the gun port opening.
 

 

 
Thanks.

Thanks.  That should work.  I do have the "More Reply Options" box.

The replacement center keel from Model Expo still has not arrived; although they say it was shipped on July 9th. 
 
The binnacle in the Fair American is also made from dye cast metal.  It doesn’t look very good to me so I decided to make my own from left over walnut planks from the Armed Virginia Sloop.
 
I based my design on rafine’s and added an extra drawer that can hold charts and stuff.   There probably should be some kind of vents on the back or roof since I assume that there were lanterns behind those “triangle” shaped doors. 
 
I may be changing the overall “look” of the Fair American with these changes, but I guess I can always use the metal binnacle, as well as the metal bilge pumps if necessary. 
 
Anyway, I wish my center keel replacement part would finally get here so I can start building this kit in earnest.
 

I am still waiting for the replacement center keel from Model Expo so I decided to make the cannon carriages. It should be easier for me to correctly frame the gun ports, when I reach that point in the building process, by having some completed carriages.
 
The gun carriages are made from laser cut parts: 2 side parts, a bottom part that contains the axles and 4 trucks.  Unfortunately, all the parts are made from basswood which splits easily.  I had 3-4 axles break off and one truck split apart.  These parts are very small and do not glue back together easily so I just glued trucks over where the axles were and cut a new truck (which was not easy) from spare basswood.
 
The motto here is that it is not the deficiencies of the kit or the mistakes made which are important, but the strategies created to overcome the issues and enable model building to continue.
 
Anyway, I attach photos of the carriages in various stages of completion.  The barrel is not glued as yet and still needs to be painted black.  The trunnion was made from a toothpick slimmed down.  I made quoin beds and quoins; however I may not use the quoins depending on the height of the barrel vs. the gun port opening.
 

 

 
Thanks.

The replacement center keel from Model Expo still has not arrived. 
 
The Fair American kit provides bilge pumps made from dye cast metal.  I didn’t like the look of them and think that wooden pumps would be much better.  So I constructed two pumps based on the ones from the Armed Virginia Sloop.
 
I started with a ¼ inch dowel cut to a length of 3/8 inches.  I used 3/16” .020 walnut planking split in two around the dowel to give the look of a barrel.  The handle bracket was made from 1/8” square walnut stock with a notch cut in the top.  The handles were 1/16” walnut rounded from about halfway to one end and leaving a nob or ball at that end.  I made the straps and U-bracket from 1/16” strips cut from a manila folder.  I find it is better to paint the manila strips before gluing.  Finally, a spout was cut from 1/16” square walnut stock with a gouge cut into the top.  A photo of the pumps is attached below.
 
Next I plan on replacing the dye cast metal binnacle.  Again, a wooden binnacle will look much better.
 

The replacement center keel from Model Expo still has not arrived. 
 
The Fair American kit provides bilge pumps made from dye cast metal.  I didn’t like the look of them and think that wooden pumps would be much better.  So I constructed two pumps based on the ones from the Armed Virginia Sloop.
 
I started with a ¼ inch dowel cut to a length of 3/8 inches.  I used 3/16” .020 walnut planking split in two around the dowel to give the look of a barrel.  The handle bracket was made from 1/8” square walnut stock with a notch cut in the top.  The handles were 1/16” walnut rounded from about halfway to one end and leaving a nob or ball at that end.  I made the straps and U-bracket from 1/16” strips cut from a manila folder.  I find it is better to paint the manila strips before gluing.  Finally, a spout was cut from 1/16” square walnut stock with a gouge cut into the top.  A photo of the pumps is attached below.
 
Next I plan on replacing the dye cast metal binnacle.  Again, a wooden binnacle will look much better.