KenW

So I ordered wood and continued to make carriages.  The guns of the Washington are not all the same size.  They used whatever was available.  The boat, according to my plans, had two 18 pounders, two 12 pounders, two 9 pounders and a combination of 6 and 4 pounders.  I used the gun barrels and carriages supplied by Syren; so I used six 6 pounders and no 4’s.  I attach a photo of each size.  More carriages for the 6’s need to be made; and I didn’t glue the barrels to the carriages yet.  The small pins stopping the wheels falling off and all made, even for the small 6 pounders.  For the smallest 6 pounders, I used a #78 drill and was lucky to make the pins with my Dremel that fit into the small hole.

 

So I ordered wood and continued to make carriages.  The guns of the Washington are not all the same size.  They used whatever was available.  The boat, according to my plans, had two 18 pounders, two 12 pounders, two 9 pounders and a combination of 6 and 4 pounders.  I used the gun barrels and carriages supplied by Syren; so I used six 6 pounders and no 4’s.  I attach a photo of each size.  More carriages for the 6’s need to be made; and I didn’t glue the barrels to the carriages yet.  The small pins stopping the wheels falling off and all made, even for the small 6 pounders.  For the smallest 6 pounders, I used a #78 drill and was lucky to make the pins with my Dremel that fit into the small hole.

 

As I think about what to do with the planking of the hull and decide what wood I’m going to need, I decided to make a couple of gun carriages.  I started with the two 18 pounders.  I got the carriages from Chuck and followed his directions.  I even attempted to make the pins holding the axle wheels in place.  These are very small and provided me with a real challenge.  I used a #73 drill bit to drill a hole through the axle.  The pin was made from a 1/16” x 1/16” strip turned in the chock of my Dremel.  The key is to make sure the axle nibs fully extend beyond the side of the carriage wheel.

So I ordered wood and continued to make carriages.  The guns of the Washington are not all the same size.  They used whatever was available.  The boat, according to my plans, had two 18 pounders, two 12 pounders, two 9 pounders and a combination of 6 and 4 pounders.  I used the gun barrels and carriages supplied by Syren; so I used six 6 pounders and no 4’s.  I attach a photo of each size.  More carriages for the 6’s need to be made; and I didn’t glue the barrels to the carriages yet.  The small pins stopping the wheels falling off and all made, even for the small 6 pounders.  For the smallest 6 pounders, I used a #78 drill and was lucky to make the pins with my Dremel that fit into the small hole.

 

So I ordered wood and continued to make carriages.  The guns of the Washington are not all the same size.  They used whatever was available.  The boat, according to my plans, had two 18 pounders, two 12 pounders, two 9 pounders and a combination of 6 and 4 pounders.  I used the gun barrels and carriages supplied by Syren; so I used six 6 pounders and no 4’s.  I attach a photo of each size.  More carriages for the 6’s need to be made; and I didn’t glue the barrels to the carriages yet.  The small pins stopping the wheels falling off and all made, even for the small 6 pounders.  For the smallest 6 pounders, I used a #78 drill and was lucky to make the pins with my Dremel that fit into the small hole.

 

As I think about what to do with the planking of the hull and decide what wood I’m going to need, I decided to make a couple of gun carriages.  I started with the two 18 pounders.  I got the carriages from Chuck and followed his directions.  I even attempted to make the pins holding the axle wheels in place.  These are very small and provided me with a real challenge.  I used a #73 drill bit to drill a hole through the axle.  The pin was made from a 1/16” x 1/16” strip turned in the chock of my Dremel.  The key is to make sure the axle nibs fully extend beyond the side of the carriage wheel.

Another summer with no modeling due to an injury.  But I’ve been feeling up to modeling again and my next focus will be on the quality of my work.  I made frames (18) for each gun port.  I think this will give a better look when all the planking is done.  Also, I’ve begun sanding the hull in preparation for planking the outside above the wales.  A lot of work levels and width of the bulkwarks.  Still more sanding to go.

 
 

Another summer with no modeling due to an injury.  But I’ve been feeling up to modeling again and my next focus will be on the quality of my work.  I made frames (18) for each gun port.  I think this will give a better look when all the planking is done.  Also, I’ve begun sanding the hull in preparation for planking the outside above the wales.  A lot of work levels and width of the bulkwarks.  Still more sanding to go.

 
 

Nice hearing from you, Ken but not about your injury.  Good to see that you're back modeling.
 
Gary

Another summer with no modeling due to an injury.  But I’ve been feeling up to modeling again and my next focus will be on the quality of my work.  I made frames (18) for each gun port.  I think this will give a better look when all the planking is done.  Also, I’ve begun sanding the hull in preparation for planking the outside above the wales.  A lot of work levels and width of the bulkwarks.  Still more sanding to go.

 
 

Another summer with no modeling due to an injury.  But I’ve been feeling up to modeling again and my next focus will be on the quality of my work.  I made frames (18) for each gun port.  I think this will give a better look when all the planking is done.  Also, I’ve begun sanding the hull in preparation for planking the outside above the wales.  A lot of work levels and width of the bulkwarks.  Still more sanding to go.

 
 

Another summer with no modeling due to an injury.  But I’ve been feeling up to modeling again and my next focus will be on the quality of my work.  I made frames (18) for each gun port.  I think this will give a better look when all the planking is done.  Also, I’ve begun sanding the hull in preparation for planking the outside above the wales.  A lot of work levels and width of the bulkwarks.  Still more sanding to go.

 
 

Another summer with no modeling due to an injury.  But I’ve been feeling up to modeling again and my next focus will be on the quality of my work.  I made frames (18) for each gun port.  I think this will give a better look when all the planking is done.  Also, I’ve begun sanding the hull in preparation for planking the outside above the wales.  A lot of work levels and width of the bulkwarks.  Still more sanding to go.

 
 

I started working on the channels and deadeyes today.   Pretty straight forward stuff here.   The channels are laser cut in 3 layers just like the Winchelsea model.  The char was removed and the layers glued up.  The outside layers are very thin but not thin enough for the final product.  It is slightly smaller so after gluing it up, it creates a nice fancy edge.  But you dont want the top and bottom layers too thick so they were sanded down even thinner.  Almost card stock thickness.  See the photo below.  These do take a little time to complete but its worth it.  I used spray mount glue to glue the thin outside layers in position.  But I have also used a simple glue stick with success.
 

They were glued to the hull as is usually done.  The molding on the hull was carefully removed and the channels pinned into position with 24 gauge wire used as the pins.  
 

Then I did a quick test on the chainplates and deadeyes.  I had already done this on the battle station mini kit so it was just a matter of repeating the process.  
 
There are two sizes of deadeyes. These are all 3d printed for you. The first thing you need to do is insert the deadeyes into their strops. The strops are laser cut for you out of plastic. It is quite easy to slip the deadeyes into the strop. The strop will flex so you can slip it right in. No glue is needed or soldering etc.

Next you must prepare the deadeye straps. These are laser cut for you out of plastic as well. They have a pretty unique shape. But you will need to complete them before you can use them even though they are laser cut in profile.

See the photo...
 


The top of each strap has a “hook” of sorts on the end. This is hooked into the bottom of the deadeye strop after the deadeyes are inserted into the slots on the channel.
But these “hooks” are too wide as laser cut. You will need to file them thinner in width so the hook will actually fit into the little loops of the deadeye strops. They start off as 1/16” wide…you will need to file them to 1/32” wide. File them a little on each side. Give it a test and see if the fit into the strop loop as you see it in the photo above.

In addition, at the bottom of the chainplate strap a small brass nail secures it to the hull. You will need to drill a small hole thru the bottom of each strap for the little brass pins that come with the kit. Then I also rounded the bottom of the strap so it didn’t appear “square” at the very bottom edge.  I used a #70 drill bit for the hole.

This makes a big difference visually.

So how do you add the deadeyes and straps on the model? You have two sizes of deadeyes which should already be stropped. Place the loop of the strop into the slots on the channel. You will see the loop stick out along the bottom of the channel.

Use the plans to determine where the larger and smaller deadeyes go along the channel.

Once the deadeyes are in the channel slots, the straps can be hooked into the loop under the channel. The straps are somewhat flexible. If one breaks there are plenty of extras. Use the plans to determine the angle of each strap along the hull. NOTE: there are two different lengths of straps as they are angled along the hull. The longer straps are used on the deadeyes on the aft side of the channels to keep the bottom of the chainplate straps lined up.  It helps them line up better when pinned into the planking. 

Mark the locations for the brass pins on the hull using the plans as a guide. Pre-drill the holes for the brass pins. With the straps hanging from the deadeye strops, pin the bottom ends into the planking. I found it easier to cut the pins shorter because you don’t need them that long.  
 
Now to finish this off for all of the channels!!!  I will post more pics when I finish it all up.

Here are some better pics....the last one was just on my phone.
 
I wasnt just painting figures today, I also finished up the tiller.  I was going to do a mash-up with metal and mixed media or even just make the tiller from all brass like Greg did.  But that seemed a lot when I am awful at metal work.   I also dont have those tools and havent soldered a thing in my life.  So I said why not just 3D print the tiller.  Its all painted black and many of you kit builders dont have the tools to do the metal work anyway.  So the Tiller is 3D printed and all you have to do is paint it black which was done on the contemporary model...and glue it in position.  I would say that it looks as it is supposed to and much better than if I fumbled through a soldering exercise. 
 

 
All of the deck-work and fittings are now done except for the binnacle.  But next up is the remaining outboard hull details.  Starting with the channels and deadeyes.
 
But here are a few pics of the deck fittings all done including the tiller.
 





 
 

To complete the rudder, we have to add the hinges (pintels and gudgeons).  As is usually the case with me on such iron work, I wont be doing any soldering.   You have heard me say often on this project and others..."Fake it till you make it"...this will be the case for these rudder hinges as well.  To start, paint both sides of the laser cut pieces for the hinges black.  You will be thankful you did later on.

Then glue them onto position on the rudder.  Glue them against the top edge of the slots for them in the rudder.  Note...I wont be creating a working rudder with hinge pins.  For the life of me I dont understand why folks do that at all.  Its not like anyone will be playing with the rudder later.  It will be displayed under glass forever so it doesnt make sense to me.  But if you want to show this you can do so by inserting some 22 gauge black wire into the holes laser cut in these pieces.   My rudder will be stationary but you wont be able to tell any difference once its all done.  Hopefully.  Both sides of these pieces should be flush with the sides of the rudder at this point so sand them flush if you need to.  I have also prepared the hinge strips in advance.  They are 1/16" x 1/64" boxwood strips.  They edges were painted black in advance.  Again you will be doing yourself a huge favor if you do that.
 

These strips were added to the rudder using the laser etched lines as a guide so the correct angles are easily found.   Just let them run off the forward side for now.  Once they are all in position, you can sand the hinges to shape as shown below.  You can also see the top hinge has not yet been trimmed or shaped.   Once completed on both sides, sand the faces of the strips a little, especially if you prefer a thinner hinge strap.  You dont want to make them too heavy.  You can even taper the thickness thinner as they work their way towards the aft edge.
 

Now its optional but this is the time where you can drill along those straps and insert some bolts.  I used 20lb black fishing line.  Then paint the straps black.  You can even apply some weathering powder to these hinges if you want them to look more like metal.  I brushed on a little brown powder although its hard to see that in the photos.
 

 
Here is how the rudder looks all finished up and with black rudder hinges.  Its a pretty effective way to make these and can be done on any model...and you dont even need a laser cutter to do it.
 

With the rudder completed I will start making the married partners for these hinges in much the same way so I can attach it to the model.  But at least you can get an idea of how it will ultimately look.
 

 
 
 
 

Started chapter 10.   The rudder is first thing.
 
The usual treatment for rudder.  It is laser cut and etched on both sides with some lines for the ironwork and to simulate the two parts of the rudder.   The laser char is removed from all edges until its pretty clean.
 
Then the protective strip on the aft side is shaped and glued into position.  But dont add the bolts yet.   In addition, add the protective strip along the bottom of the rudder too. (1/16" x 5/16") The rudder must be shaped first with a taper.  It tapers thinner from the top of this protective strip (1/16" x 5/16") down to the bottom on the aft side.   And from the forward side towards the aft edge as well.  I am sure you guys have seen this before yet so many kit builds still have a massively thick rudder.  The forward edge is also beveled where the rudder hinges will be...again you have probably seen this detail before.  Once the rudder is shaped and I applied some wipe-on-poly, I was able to add the simulated bolts with some 20lb. black line.
 


 
 
Now it was time to do a test fit on the model and see how things look.  You want to pay close attention to the height of rudder head.  It will pass all the way through and into the rudder cover on the poop deck.
 
This is why we didnt glue that top on the rudder cover yet.  If the height looks good, you can actually mark where the tiller will be inserted into the rudder head.   See below.  I did bevel the top of the rudder head but it doesnt really matter since this will be all covered up anyway.  After marking for the tiller I drilled part way through the rudder head with a 3/32" but.
 

 
Here is a view from below...everything seems to fit nicely so I can proceed with the ironwork.  Notice how I removed the brace on the build board but left the strips for the keel slot.  The rudder sits in there good and this will be a great help when trying to get those rudder hinges on.  It holds everything nice and steady.   You just have to make sure everything is sittin properly in that slot and pushed all the way down to the baseboard.
 

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

Milestone reached as this completes chapter 9.  All of the deck fittings except for the binnacle have been completed.   The last fitting was the rudder cover.   Again very straight forward.  All parts are laser cut.
 
To begin you must build the jig.  Just glue the part labeled "jig" on top of the square with the etched outline.
 

Then start adding the sides of the rudder cover.  Start with the back panel.  All corners will be mitered or beveled.  I just eye-balled it with a sanding stick.
 

Work your way forward and then finish up with the front panel.  Remember not to glue the rudder cover to the jig!!!
 
In addition, you can build the lid or top of the rudder cover.  It is in two layers as shown.  But dont glue it on yet.  This wont be done until after the rudder is installed and the tiller is added.  I did go ahead and paint them red however.
 


You can test fit this on deck...but notice the small step behind the rudder cover.   This is the step for the ensign staff.   This must be added first.  I have laser cut a bunch for you as they are small.  You must bevel the back side to fit snug against the transom.   The front side should be beveled as well to sit flush against the rudder cover.  You can glue them in position, but remember not to glue the top on for the rudder cover yet.  If you do ... you will never get that till inserted into the rudder head.
 

But you can sit the top in position and nobody will know it isnt glued on yet!!
 

Thats it...all fittings completed.   To begin chapter 10 I will be making the rudder and tiller.  Fun times.
 

What I am gonna shoot for with color scheme and rig.  Furled sails.  Only not 3” long.  
 
Getting close to rigging so I must create my vision board of inspiration.

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

OK well here a few pictures of the capstan painted red.  At least folks will be able to see both choices and the decision will be easier for them.
 
I do like it better red...what do you guys think?
 

 

 

 

The step - by - step...
 
The capstan is built almost exactly like the one for the Winnie.  The main difference is the center drum.  That added a bit of tedium to this task.  With the 3D printer however it can be made in one piece and perfectly shaped.  The benefit is that it saves so much time and it is so precise.  It will also not be seen at all when the capstan is completed.
 
You need to cut a 3/32" x 3/32" strip to use as the registration for the other layers.  Its a little big initially by design.  You need to sand it so the pieces are a nice press fit when you slide them on.   But dont force the layers onto the strip because you could break the thinner layers.  You can see some of the layers in the photo below.  The two at the top have had the laser char cleaned from the sides.  I used a sanding stick.  Dont worry about the three at the bottom yet.
 

Those are next...slide them onto the strip (or use an entirely different strip) gluing the three layers together.  But dont glue it to the strip as you will want to remove it.

See below
 

To make it easier to remove the char from these assemblies, you can place them onto a 3/32" strip as long as its a tight fit...otherwise it will fly off.  But then chock it in your hand drill and have at it.  Use a fine grit sanding stick.  Its soft wood so be careful.  This is a later process when most of the drum is  glued up in layers and being sanded. But I wanted to show you that you didnt have to sand them by hand.
 

You need to do that to the three center layers with the square holes first.  Then glue that on top of the slightly larger disc with the square etched onto it for reference. Then glue the top on and sand it as shown in the photo above with the drill.  I also sanded a slight dome shape into the top side of the drum while on the drill.   This makes the sides a bit thinner and gives the top a nice shape.  But keep the center area flat for the last small top layer.  I thinned the top this way until the side edge was 3/64" thick or close to it.
 

I am not sure if you can see the top shaped like a dome or rounded off but now that last small disc can be added.   But first go ahead and glue the drum assembly to the 3D printed center first.  Then snip off any excess 3/32" strip sticking out above the center and sand it flush.

Then glue the little disc on top and center it with the etched circle that should help you do just that.  Then its time for the whelps.   There are plenty of extra provided.  But sand them free of laser char and glue them to each face of the 3D printed center.   Make sure you but them flush against the bottom edge of the drum.  Note the laser etched mortices on both side of each whelp.  These are for the chocks.  Take a look at them before you glue them in position and flatten them out if need be with a small file.  Sometimes the etched surface isnt perfect and needs a little cleaning up.  A few swipes with a file should do the trick.

With the whelps all finished...start adding the chocks.  These will take some time.  The thicker chocks are the bottom row.  You will most likely have to sand both sides of the pie pieces and test them in position.  Make sure they fit tight in the mortices of the whelps.  Dont rush this as a clean tight fit is what makes the capstan look so good.   The sand the outside edge concave or convex with a curve depending on if it is the top or bottom row of chocks.
 
The chocks are over-sized so you will be shaping and testing and repeating the process.  Plan on spending an entire day building this capstan with care.

Then add the simulated bolts with some 20lb blk fishing line.  There are also bolts on the top of the drum.  The holes along the outside of the drum are for the pins that hold the capstan bars.  They are not for bolts and should remain as holes.  All the other laser cut holes around the center of the drum were places there for your simulated bolts.  So add those as well.
 

 
Thats it...it will take some time to do a decent job.  But remember that there are fewer deck fittings on this little sloop and therefor it is even more important to do a respectable job on them.  They will all be front and center and a focus point when anyone views the model.  You can pint it red or leave natural.  The contemporary model is painted red.   I havent decided yet.  What do you guys think?
 
There are also two pawls that were used to stop the capstan from turning.  Only one side was engaged at a time.  One goes to port and the other to starboard.  See the plans.  These were made from scrap 1/16" x 1/16" strips and glued into position.
 

 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank You!!
 
She is slowly filling out with details as I work my way aft with deck fittings.
 

The main bitts are just forward of the main mast.  This is shaped and assembled from more laser cut parts the same way as I have designed the others throughout the project.   See below.
 
With the main bitts the sides were glued together first as they come in two parts.  This was before the char was removed.  The char was removed and the top "timberheads"   were carved and shaped as before. Then the cross beam was glued to them after it was cleaned and shaped.  The ends need to be filed on the top and bottom to match the profile while being cleaned of char.  I also beveled the extreme edges on each side.  To finish it up I added simulated bolts with 30lb black fishing line according to the plans.
 
I have placed the bitts on the model but not yet permanently.  I will do that later.  The bitts were painted bulwark red as on the contemporary model.   As more fittings get completed I am still thinking about painting the belfry bowsprit step red as well.  Time will tell...what do you guys think?
 
Mast coats and elm tree pumps are next up.
 


 
 
 
 
 

Lots of dust on the model...maybe today I will clean it all up.
 
Anyway...the bowsprit step/Belfry was up next. At this point none of the fittings are glued on deck.   I am not yet sure if I will paint it red or leave it natural.  The contemporary model has it painted red but the paint is so worn and light on that model it all pretty much blends in to everything else.  So I will wait until all of the fittings are made to determine whether I paint this.  I know the heel of of bowsprit inboard will be painted red so I will wait to see if painting the bsprit step red would be too much.
 

 
Here are most of the elements laser cut for the bstep/belfry.  There is a bunch of faking it on this fitting but in the end you wont be able to tall.  First I cleaned these Cedar pieces of laser char.  Dont be shy here.  It will all come off and look clean but takes time and care.  I used some 220 grit and 320 grit sanding sticks and even a sharp #11 blade.   You can see one side of the bstep all cleaned of char.  The other has yet to be cleaned and shaped.   You must finish the top and match the shaped timberhead.  For this a sharp blade was used to make a series of "stop cuts" and then basically carve the two sides that needed shaping.  This was after char clean up.
 
The center where the bowsprit will be stepped was cleaned and assembled.  Note the aft side of the step.  I have inserted a small laser cut square to simulate the tenon of the bowsprit.  Its just easier and cleaner this way.  Leave it standing proud a bit.  The forward side sill has a nice deep mortice for the actual tenon of the bowsprit.
 
Then there were the belfry elements.  This includes a length of twisted square wire.  This will be proved.  Yes this is commercially available.   You must use the plan to shape it which is shown.   Then blacken it.  The other elements are also shown.
 

Moving along...the step is now completed and drilled with simulated bolts.  Once again these were black fishing line (30 lb).  Note the laser etched seam which should go on the outside if each side piece...dont mix up the side pieces when assembling.  I also drilled the holes for the wire belfry.   That wire was blackened.  The stock for the bell was completed at this time.  Some laserboard elements simulate the ironwork.  I glued the top on first and then the two faces.   Some 24 gauge wire was inserted into the ends of the stock.  But you can attach this to the wire frame anyway you wish.  I knew it would be a challenge to drill through the frame for most so once again this is simplified.  I just filed some slots on the inside of each frame of the twisted wire at the height needed. I used the plans to establish where.  These tiny grooves were enough of a slot to slide and glue the belfry stock in position.  Its pretty secure.   Its not under any pressure so it should be safe and secure.
 
Before doing so however, I added the handle to the top of the bell stock.  I just bent it according to the plans.   I used 22 gauge blk wire.  You can add a tiny length of rope if want to.  I have decided not to as they always seem to hang left or right or curl up and that annoys me.  The bell was simply glued to the underside of the stock.   Then it was glued within the frame as described.
 

 
There is a little bit of cleaned up needed as my fingers must have been dirty.  But this is the result.
 

 

And finally shown on deck but not glued in position yet.  The companionway hood is also not glued in position yet.  No hurry with that.  This completes the fcastle deck fittings.  Now we start the gun deck fittings.  Ignore the dust!!!
 

 
Comments and questions are always welcome!!!
 
Chuck