Jack Panzeca

H
 
Hi Von_Kossa,
 
Sorry about the oops!  I have had my share of mistakes and re-dos, I just fix it and forget it as soon as possible.
 
I was not planning to use nails on the shields.  I really like the look of your shields (post #23 and 25 of your log).  What did you use for the center ornament?
 
The nail head diameter for the plank nails is 1.62 mm.  They could be a little smaller but they really look good the way they are.
 
To blacken brass I use a product called Blacken It from Micro Mark.  It is similar to the acid mix used to blacken guns.  Take a look at this link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1167-using-blacken-it/.
 
I got the spacing of the plank nails from two places.  I have used two books and numerous internet locations to research the Oseberg.  The books are:
 

 
I got 18 cm from the second book here and I got 8 inches (about 20 cm) from a web site.  I was unable to find it again.  I did a test to see if the 20 cm or if 40 cm looked better at this scale and the results are below.
 

 

 
Everyone who looked at the test agreed that the closer spacing looked best.  I did increase the spacing from 8 mm to 10 mm just to compromise a little and save a few holes.  The references in both the book and the website were not Oseberg specific but general to shipbuilding of the time and place.  You may be right about the Oseberg.
 
Please let me know if I can help.

My problem in post #41, was how am I going to get the planks to land all straight, neat and tidy on the keel as shown on the drawing (the purple section.)  

 
This is how the stern looked after I finished planking last week. Not very promising. 

 
So, I took a deep breath and cut off a section of the planked keel and added a walnut stern stem. 

 
 
And the planks line up straight, neat and tidy!!

 
 
The transom was planked before adding the stern stem

 
Working on the framing around the fish wells, have a few more parts to figure out, but it's looking good. 
 
Thanks for stopping by!
 
Dee Dee

 

 

My photography mentor used to say that the nicest thing that you could say about another photographer is "you are killing me".  Well, your planking is killing me.  Very nice.

That will give u a lot of work!

Hello Von_Kossa,
Thanks for the help with the shields.  I saw on your log that you will space the nails at 10 mm.  You will be happy with it.  It really looks great.
 
Hi Dee Dee, 
Absolutely not your fault.  I am the old guy with the out of date rubber bands.  Thanks for the tip on the pins.  Also, thanks for the kind words and encouragement.
 
Good Evening Vivian,
Thanks for the help picking the stain earlier and all the encouragement.  I agree the lines of this ship are really special.  
 
Thank you to all the "likes" out there it is comforting to know that you are watching.

H
 
Hi Von_Kossa,
 
Sorry about the oops!  I have had my share of mistakes and re-dos, I just fix it and forget it as soon as possible.
 
I was not planning to use nails on the shields.  I really like the look of your shields (post #23 and 25 of your log).  What did you use for the center ornament?
 
The nail head diameter for the plank nails is 1.62 mm.  They could be a little smaller but they really look good the way they are.
 
To blacken brass I use a product called Blacken It from Micro Mark.  It is similar to the acid mix used to blacken guns.  Take a look at this link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1167-using-blacken-it/.
 
I got the spacing of the plank nails from two places.  I have used two books and numerous internet locations to research the Oseberg.  The books are:
 

 
I got 18 cm from the second book here and I got 8 inches (about 20 cm) from a web site.  I was unable to find it again.  I did a test to see if the 20 cm or if 40 cm looked better at this scale and the results are below.
 

 

 
Everyone who looked at the test agreed that the closer spacing looked best.  I did increase the spacing from 8 mm to 10 mm just to compromise a little and save a few holes.  The references in both the book and the website were not Oseberg specific but general to shipbuilding of the time and place.  You may be right about the Oseberg.
 
Please let me know if I can help.

H
 
Hi Von_Kossa,
 
Sorry about the oops!  I have had my share of mistakes and re-dos, I just fix it and forget it as soon as possible.
 
I was not planning to use nails on the shields.  I really like the look of your shields (post #23 and 25 of your log).  What did you use for the center ornament?
 
The nail head diameter for the plank nails is 1.62 mm.  They could be a little smaller but they really look good the way they are.
 
To blacken brass I use a product called Blacken It from Micro Mark.  It is similar to the acid mix used to blacken guns.  Take a look at this link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1167-using-blacken-it/.
 
I got the spacing of the plank nails from two places.  I have used two books and numerous internet locations to research the Oseberg.  The books are:
 

 
I got 18 cm from the second book here and I got 8 inches (about 20 cm) from a web site.  I was unable to find it again.  I did a test to see if the 20 cm or if 40 cm looked better at this scale and the results are below.
 

 

 
Everyone who looked at the test agreed that the closer spacing looked best.  I did increase the spacing from 8 mm to 10 mm just to compromise a little and save a few holes.  The references in both the book and the website were not Oseberg specific but general to shipbuilding of the time and place.  You may be right about the Oseberg.
 
Please let me know if I can help.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

Hello Von_Kossa,
Thanks for the help with the shields.  I saw on your log that you will space the nails at 10 mm.  You will be happy with it.  It really looks great.
 
Hi Dee Dee, 
Absolutely not your fault.  I am the old guy with the out of date rubber bands.  Thanks for the tip on the pins.  Also, thanks for the kind words and encouragement.
 
Good Evening Vivian,
Thanks for the help picking the stain earlier and all the encouragement.  I agree the lines of this ship are really special.  
 
Thank you to all the "likes" out there it is comforting to know that you are watching.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

Hello Von_Kossa,
Thanks for the help with the shields.  I saw on your log that you will space the nails at 10 mm.  You will be happy with it.  It really looks great.
 
Hi Dee Dee, 
Absolutely not your fault.  I am the old guy with the out of date rubber bands.  Thanks for the tip on the pins.  Also, thanks for the kind words and encouragement.
 
Good Evening Vivian,
Thanks for the help picking the stain earlier and all the encouragement.  I agree the lines of this ship are really special.  
 
Thank you to all the "likes" out there it is comforting to know that you are watching.

Regarding nails.
Looked into the distance between the nails on the oseberg, besides being very chaotic in placement, the type varies between square rivets or nails with rounded heads, i guess they took what they had when it was built.
There exists threads and loose information about the scale 1:1 ship has a ~20 cm space between the nails. If it is correct it would make the spacing in the BB kit to 8 mm between the nails assusming you have the correct scale on the nails.
 
I tried to make out the spacing by comparing this picture with the model.



 
In this case it would make the spacing 13 mm. But then i discovered that this only seems to be true with the rail (the two upper plank rows).
 
Study this picture and you can see that the spacing is smaller on the other rows.
 

 
To conclude this ranting i think i will be doing the following if i decide to join the nail circus:
1. Make the spacing on the two rail rows 12 mm.
2. Make the spacing on the the rest of the ship 10 mm like Jack Panzeca.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

Hi!
 
 
In my case it is not soon enough, i have a tendency to get stuck.
 
 
 
Viking shields had a very distinct look. As you are probably aware by now. A typical shield buckle looked like this:

 
So i ordered this and this, i took the photos this morning with my mobile before going to work, looks like sh*t but it works.


 
As you can see i first bought a furniture nail with a diameter of 6,5 mm, bought here in Sweden in Bauhaus.
But the ring around it was still missing. So after some serious digging i finally found my ring in a german hobby webstore.
It was very difficult to find a shim that would fit and have the correct scale.
But finally i found Manufacturer: Serpent, Article number: 411224, Rear Axle Shim, 6,5x,8,0,25.
 
And the result looked like this:

 
 
 
Thanks.
 
 
 
Thanks again.

 
 
I will have to look into this...

 

Hi Grant,  thanks again.  I will gather my thoughts on depth of field and try them out on you first and then combine them with the first PM  and open a thread in "Tips and Tricks".  
 
Hello Pawel, Thanks for dropping by and for the kind words.  I hate the shields included in the kit.  Please check post 142 on page ten of this log to see what I have done.  I am still looking for an appropriate center ornament and trying to decide what to do with the edges of the shield.
 
Hi Ulli,  Great to have you aboard.  This is a fun project but you are so right about both the patience and the oaths.  I cut and fitted the planks and laid them into place.  Every time I touched the ship the planks would jump into the next space or further, sometimes the floor.  I could not glue them in place because I had just decided to do the nails and I wanted to keep access to the inside of the hull until that was finished.  So I bagged them up for a while until this weekend and now they are permanently in place, at least I hope so.
 
Hey David B, thanks for the encouragement.  The shots on the black background are shot with a Canon 5D Mark lll but the workbench shots are with a Canon PowerShot S110.  It takes beautiful images and gives the photographer a great deal of control.  I started this log with the big camera and it was really difficult to handle with all the clutter of the workbench.  Also, the sanding dust was not good for it.  The PowerShot is small and sits on the edge of the bench ready when needed.  It is closed tight when the power is off and wakes up in a few seconds when it is time for action.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

Time for another update.
 
The kit makes no mention of the iron nails that hold the overlapping planks together.  I felt that the ship would really be incomplete without them so I decided to spend a few weeks and do it.
 

 
The nails are about 200 mm apart on the Oseberg but do show some randomness.  That scales out to 8 mm.  I did a couple of test planks 1 at 8 mm and 1 at 16 mm.  I was hoping that the 16 mm spacing would look great and save me about 700 nails.  Oh well, no luck.  I did widen the spacing to 10 mm.
 
 
 
I bought the smallest brass nails that I could find and blackened them using the method sited in various places on MSW but I specifically read it in Augie"s Confederacy log (great log by the way!).  I marked the holes with dividers and patiently drilled the 720, ½ mm holes.  It took over a week to mark and drill and insert all those nails.  I broke several bits in the process.  I forgot to mention that this is only the port side.  
 

 
I will place a drop of CA at the base of the nail forest and cut them off before I glue the deck in place.
 

 
I decided to go ahead and stain after the holes were drilled and before the nails were inserted.  I spent some time cleaning up the glue that was left where the planks overlapped so the stain would go on evenly.  I had cleaned up carefully when the planks were glued but the best laid plans...
 

 
I still have some touch up to do on the stain and I will add the wipe on poly at the very end.  I have taken a couple of days off to decompress after the first half and it is back to work tomorrow.
 

H
 
Hi Von_Kossa,
 
Sorry about the oops!  I have had my share of mistakes and re-dos, I just fix it and forget it as soon as possible.
 
I was not planning to use nails on the shields.  I really like the look of your shields (post #23 and 25 of your log).  What did you use for the center ornament?
 
The nail head diameter for the plank nails is 1.62 mm.  They could be a little smaller but they really look good the way they are.
 
To blacken brass I use a product called Blacken It from Micro Mark.  It is similar to the acid mix used to blacken guns.  Take a look at this link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1167-using-blacken-it/.
 
I got the spacing of the plank nails from two places.  I have used two books and numerous internet locations to research the Oseberg.  The books are:
 

 
I got 18 cm from the second book here and I got 8 inches (about 20 cm) from a web site.  I was unable to find it again.  I did a test to see if the 20 cm or if 40 cm looked better at this scale and the results are below.
 

 

 
Everyone who looked at the test agreed that the closer spacing looked best.  I did increase the spacing from 8 mm to 10 mm just to compromise a little and save a few holes.  The references in both the book and the website were not Oseberg specific but general to shipbuilding of the time and place.  You may be right about the Oseberg.
 
Please let me know if I can help.

Time for another update.
 
The kit makes no mention of the iron nails that hold the overlapping planks together.  I felt that the ship would really be incomplete without them so I decided to spend a few weeks and do it.
 

 
The nails are about 200 mm apart on the Oseberg but do show some randomness.  That scales out to 8 mm.  I did a couple of test planks 1 at 8 mm and 1 at 16 mm.  I was hoping that the 16 mm spacing would look great and save me about 700 nails.  Oh well, no luck.  I did widen the spacing to 10 mm.
 
 
 
I bought the smallest brass nails that I could find and blackened them using the method sited in various places on MSW but I specifically read it in Augie"s Confederacy log (great log by the way!).  I marked the holes with dividers and patiently drilled the 720, ½ mm holes.  It took over a week to mark and drill and insert all those nails.  I broke several bits in the process.  I forgot to mention that this is only the port side.  
 

 
I will place a drop of CA at the base of the nail forest and cut them off before I glue the deck in place.
 

 
I decided to go ahead and stain after the holes were drilled and before the nails were inserted.  I spent some time cleaning up the glue that was left where the planks overlapped so the stain would go on evenly.  I had cleaned up carefully when the planks were glued but the best laid plans...
 

 
I still have some touch up to do on the stain and I will add the wipe on poly at the very end.  I have taken a couple of days off to decompress after the first half and it is back to work tomorrow.
 

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.