Jond

I am trying to build a 1894 schooner. In this Era I find from many photos the turnbuckles ,shackles and chains were galvanized. Moving forward the chain plates were too, but many were painted out with the hull. I am using brass tube and stuff for the turnbuckles. I could use quick blackening to start if that is helpful. Is there anything better than silver paint to get to a likeness of galvanized? Ditto for chain. Most is coated brass I think. Thanks for any help

Anton I need to make 70 plus for a 4 master schooner. I bought 200 cap screws 0 x 90 say 11$ then 3/32 brass tube and 1/16 rod for support while filing. I crimp the cap screws into the tube and the each turn but don't pull out. I then make either ring or clevis. This works for 1:48 scale where I need them to be under 4 feet up top or nearly 5 feet 1.25 inch for the shrouds. If smaller say 1:96 I used 1/16 tube and copper wire glued in or perhaps solder if under any Load. I am still an amateur at this but am researching and thought to share. There are photos on my link. Cheers

I just used my new found firefox tools to re edit the previous posting regarding turnbuckles and my upcoming search for help regarding options for galvanizing regards jon

Lextin I have really enjoyed going through your build. I rechecked in today as I am struggling with sails. When I started my build I mentioned using muslin and you happened to visit my first log and gave me a connection to the supplex group. I have used some newer materials indirectly as I had nylon sails made for my 50 inch marbleheads. they perform well.... they are all about the sailing. anyway I thought you might enjoy my struggles now that I am getting to that stage and still trying to be a traditionalist. cheers jon

We got back from a week in Arizona to find our Maine spring trying to get under way. This was a short week, but I got a few things done. I got back on the turbo cad and transferred offsets to create a 1:48 set of sail template drawings. I used my wifes' large format printer that actually gets to 13" x19" that allowed one sheet templates for all but the spanker. setting up these templates one can see that pretty though she may be, sailing quality will be a challenge since the centers of effort are so low at the model size. I used details from Douglas Lee that I found interesting. On the starboard side of the standard sail there is a 1 foot liner and the rope and on the port side a 2 foot liner on the leach and luff and what could be a 3 foot liner on the port foot. This two sided lining led me to an old trick I learned by trial and error of taking a 7/8" oyster bias tape and cutting it in half. I then glued it to the edge giving a rough ¼” on the one side and just under ½” on the other. For the sail foot I cut the tape to give me a three foot liner. I also have ¼” bias tape and I fabric glued that for the reef band. Then I got into trouble as I snuck up stairs to sit at the sewing machine. This nice machine is auto set for tension and things, but I can set the length of the stitch. One of the troubles with 1:48 scale is the seams are only ½” apart and puckering is the name of the game. I did the foresail in the standard set of 2mm and it looks like a big lemon was nearby. Today I tried 1.5 MM stitch length on the mainsail. [ my logic of small means less] You really can’t tell until it is too late. I plowed through and got done and was again disappointed. I tried ironing after, but reality is these will not be ironed in place. When I showed my dear wife, she told me that of course a larger stitch and not a smaller one would apply less tension. So the Jigger is next and the first pass will be 2.5 mm or even 3mm. I also may change and reduce the size of the thread, though I am not sure that is relevant if this one ends up as a first attempt and I fix this problem, then I won't mind leaving this one behind this partial main sail will likely become a great rag I also have some jewelry supply hemp string and again I tried to use it for the bolt rope, adding brass jump rings for the four connections and 4 reef points. I am supposed to stop the rope, seizing it at each side of each reef band ring. I am looking for more demerits as I likely will bypass that detail by simply adding the rings at the end of the reef bands for looks. Sail material and advice: I know Lextin said ...use suplex…. And Jerry Todd used it as well in his build, and before this is over I might just do that too. I went to the vendor web site and color was either snow white or what I might say a selection of modern colors. I love the natural color and defects in old fashion muslin when trying to be ugly old canvas. Gluing bias tape to the sides then sewing is easier than fold - glue and sew. it is the seams that I am fighting. Also this boats is to be able to sail, not race. I will show more when I get further into and solve the puckering or give up and go modern. deck and stain As to the deck, it is like a child…..I love my children and like my deck. I am not sure if the constant change in color is good, I used two different stains and like what I have….it is not furniture. I imagine there were spills and many issues after the shake down cruise. it was oiled [ some say pine and some say other] and a bit messy I believe. I darkened all my masts after review with others and reviwewing the photos in the new book to me Fly Rails and Flying jibs it shows a bit in the next photo I show the fore top with the newly installed futtocks shrouds. I am proud that the collar is my fist ever blackened brass. I made those along with the three gaff block bands in 1/16" x 1/64" brass. Drilling the little holes is a challenge and to take on so many is all new to me. I did not make the three fittings that go from rod to hook to a pass though- double eye. Running the precoated copper wire through the cross tree and making the eyes to receive 16 more turn buckles was enough for me. I am adding gaff blocks and fitting out the spars as I need them ready to sew on the sails before installation. I love Patrick’s characterization of my new task in turnbuckles as fiddly. it is a bit overwhelming and I need to get back to it.

Patrick After your kind comments on my early progress, I had to go visit your build. wow .....I was amazed working through the process... bringing the interior up to such a level adds the human touch to such a classic design. One can now dream about sailing on a real J boat ha ha . Your log was fun and interesting and view. Anyway great build and great log. best of luck jond

The posting below was done while I was under the microsoft Windiow Explorer 11 trance. After reading tech posts in this forum, I decided to try free fire fox and guess what.....it works. I went ahead and fixed the long posting of photos by putting them in the right order with a little text. much clearer As I said before........ well it was time to start production of perhaps 70 turnbuckles as well as to 'begin' completing and staining the deck; which means a few more bitts and things. turnbuckles. I set up the photos to track my trial and error approach. I am sure after this boat I will be better prepared to start the next. I also hope to get more comments. here we go set up: after watching several videos, you tube etc. I bought some tools and things and mixed it in with what I had. here I made one up; I used a jump ring instead of a shackle. here I put 1/16" rod in 3/32" tube for strength and filed away to make the side openings step 2 I used a tiny file to clean up the opening as we want to see threaded bolt inside step 3 I drilled three small holes through 3/32" x 1/64" brass. I then reamed out the middle hole by hand and then tapped it for 0 by 80 brass cap screw. It then threads on making a strong connection possible. I filed the head down on a 0 x 80 brass cap screw and tightened it up, and t hen bend it to make the clevis. small pin is to be soldered in ...not in photo. sliding the bolt into the barrel I crimped it. after crimping it still turns but will not pull out. I took a second cap screw and filed the head to a v groove and soldered in a jump ring. I am experimenting with copper brass and " mystery white metal" rings as eventually I need to make them look like galvanized. here I have a large failure rate as I am learning the skill. I made up shackles with 24 gauge copper wire and added the pins and soldered. I need help here I plan to dip all in blackener. The chain plate and schackle are to get black, but all above that is to become galvanized. Well we shall see how this goes; I have no plan yet other than possible silver paint for the galvanizing process. That will go for chain too when I get ready for the bow sprit. Deck completion: there is lot to do here, so I wanted to advance different areas so that I can keep up the variety of daily tasks. I experimented with stain color and opted for a little darker as I completed the foc'sle deck.I like the " motley look" the main deck is done, lots of detail let on the house. I started to trim out the hatch covers. The hatch frame is black and the tops shall be oiled plank. Lots to do to make the doors and windows and and etc reading the detail, I found that the aft bitts were totally sheathed in brass and like the bow have bronze caps. After installing I am wondering how to get the top brass to look more like bronze. I think I would like the look of a foil here and at the bow bitts too. not sure where to get brionze foil. I cut some tube to wrap the bitt tables. overall shot of the condition of the deck as we take another break to visit the kids in Arizona. I am now 'wicked' happy as I learned how to post pictures with annotations....good by to MS EXPLORER jon

Patrick Spring is here in Maine. I am outside more and more. tomorrow off to see the kids......time does fly Sailing these schooners? From all I have read and been told, none of big schooners sailed well. The bigger ones, 5 and 6 master and another 100+ feet long could hardly come about at all and often would only jibe. Apparently to go from Maine to North Carolina they would often sail out to Bermuda, jibe 270 degrees and sail into the coal docks. Then coming north they could almost make it on one tack with Southwest winds summer and north east winds winter in real inches, the mainsail is about 2 feet tall. I have some 50 inch Marblehead pond yachts with 6 foot masts. they are made to sail! I will be happy to sail and turn at all. cheers here is photo of old 4 master leaving Boothbay harbor about 1930.

good news and oops We had our monthly meeting at the Downeast Shipmodelers Guild and Don a member brought in his Bluejacket kit of Charles Notman 1:96 . He is doing a beautiful job and it was enjoyed by all of us. We discussed different aspects of the coloring of oiled mast and decks, paint on waterways, roofs, hatches and shear planks. I came away feeling good about some decisions and relieved that I could use a yellowish tan as I had planned for the shear line and not figure out how to do gold....save gold for the navy If anyone out there is also building the Bluejacket kit give a shout. Every once in a while we need an oops to bring us back in line as students of this art. Jim, a long time expert on Maine schooners and a neighbor returned from a southern winter. He has several articles to his credit on these exact schooners. He came to the house to see my progress and we went off to the meeting. During the ride home he told me I had the wrong rake in my masts.........oops. I said [ the student] but I took them off the plans....he smiled and said perhaps I could check again. I found that when I calculated the rake I had set the masts at their correct position on the deck and pushed a brass pin one inch forward on the top riser [ mast step]. that was my oops..... when I rechecked the 1:96 plans it was still one inch at the cross trees to the vertical up from the step [ some how I used this measurement] I drew a new line down from the deck to the top riser and it was 1/4" forward to the step going to 1:48 that means my pins should be only 1/2" forward. For three of the masts this was no big deal. I had access to the step and with an extension on a hand drill could drop through the finished mast holes and drilled new pins 1/2 back to the right location. A little sanding on the blocking under the deck and all three went into line. The foremast was more difficult because of the completed deck house. I removed a center section of that roof and had to redo its hole as the main deck was the right position. I could not get a drill down through both house and deck, so I beefed up the blocking at the deck house roof and shimmed the mast to align. I shall also add a sharp pin in the bottom of the foremast when I step it permanently. In the photo I have turned the boat on its side to paint the yellow shear plank and you can see the rebuilt deck roof. Jim had recommended I add to my library a book called Fly Rails and Flying Jibs. It is published by Mystic seaport and contains an incredible annotated collection of photos of coastal schooners of the period. While looking through these added images it was plain to see that the small 4 degree rake Jim suggested is correct and the side view of the model schooner is much better now after the fix. so all is well and we are moving forward

Patrick thank you for your encouragement and kind appraisal. I have so much to learn. turnbuckles under way....wow The scale people are great. I got them from the inet and they are Lionel train figures which happen to be 1:48. I wish I could find some mariners. These guys will work just fine. I will cut the hack saw and he can be pulling a line, the welder can visit a cleat etc. They are incredible to help me understand the size. example, I need to put in a few boards[ steps] on the side bulkhead for the crew to climb up to the foc'sle deck. Having that guy there in the photo helps decide that three boards 3/16" by 1/2" are just right. I am getting more excited as the weather turns in the right direction. so much work to do if I can get to the water this year, but also many coming distractions. I only have three days this week then off to see the kids cheers cheers

Well it's time for some more fun I started decking using 3/32" by 1/16" to replicate the 4"x4" decking on this older schooner. I typically use black permanent marker for one side to show the caulking. There is a little inconsistency in the intensity of the line with this approach, which I prefer. I will likely stain the deck later but need some time to think about it and see more images. Decking takes a long time, so I need to work on other things at the same time. Thus it takes longer to deck, but remains fun Time to build the wheel: I studied several approaches through other building logs and came up with the following concept. Cut three rims of thin plywood for the rims, turn a hub and use simple mortise between rims for the spokes proto type or practice...see photos I started by taking 1/32" birch plywood and cut three holes 1" diameter. I then used sander and files to get shape of on center large and two outer smaller. I then took 1/16 dowel and used small square file to cut mortise on either side. I added a pin to fit the hub and tapered them a bit. I took a 5/16" dowel and shaped the hub on a lathe and drilled 12 holes for spokes and center hole for shaft I did a glue up My crew of scale construction workers showed up, so I put them to work on the decking One of guys was a sailor and seemed upset about the mess of lines on the foc'sle deck After sizing the mock up and checking both the plan and several photos, I set my size to be based on a 3/4" ID for the rim. I repeated the process in a smaller size and stained the parts. I tried ends of toothpicks with their natural taper and liked the look. second glue up I set the wheel into the wheel house and with the figures think I got the size right. I am trying to put picture in the text and think I need to post then edit ...here goes it did not work so I try to attach them as a batch

Patrick Thanks I got lots of comments at the show where the interest is in the sailing. Oops I hope she works I am into the decking now and getting ready to start learning to solder so I can make fittings. I am also going to experiment with wooden hoops. The copper is a safe workable solution,but one of our guys at the show made them from real oak shavings. Got to try at least Cheers

oops I hit reply too early The owls head Transportation Museum near Rockland, Maine has a models' show the last weekend of March each year. The various local clubs and other individuals and a few working craftsmen all come to share . The variety includes shipmodels, several more active RC clubs with Lobster and other working boats a big item. Military modeling both static and operating, cars , HO scale construction cranes and barges as well as furniture miniatures were there. The airplanes are amazing and the engineer society included all kinds of historical and adventurous made steam engines and moving tools etc. Our group the Downeast Ship modelers Guild out of the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath was well represented both at our own table and three other areas where members had their own show. FYI the Dark Harbor 17 sail boat in the photo chasing the schooner like a pilot fish is one of my older models. I felt I needed to have at least basic covers and houses ready before showing of the model. I made up the basic fore and removable middle cabins and committed to the dark green top color that was popular for an add. The books say a new boat was launched with oiled deck house tops, but after a few years they would be painted out. I am trying to show this model several years out, because the hay day of these ships was 20 years after this early one was launched. There were a few tables of miniature furnishings near us at the show, and a craftsman was there who specialized in the proxxon table saw. He makes amazing small scale picture frames and furniture. I shared my experience of difficulty working with the small wood and he was great. He showed me after market saw blades that he happened to sell and showed me how to fix my fence and few other hints. When I went home I installed the new blade, filed and reset my fence and I am confident I can lower my dimension limit from 1/8 to 1/16. That means I can rip down the decking. I will need more practice to get to 1/32, but isn't that the point? anyway a great mid point break.

just a short post as I raced to get ready for the annual modelers show at the owls Head Transportation Museum

The joy of living on the Maine coast is I have not too far to go. Actually I will not be able to get it in to my suv with masts and jib boon, as we are just @7 feet. A friend has a van and a dock. I also have a rough path through the woods to a pond behind the house. , but a long walk up and down hill. It will be a challenge. I plan to build a wagon like the pond yacht guys...but much to do beforehand Cheers

Thanks lots of snow helped a lot Cheers

here is an interim step to get ready for decking. call it step 10 part 1 as there is more to do before general decking complete flyrail This was a fun project. As I showed last time the first turned flyrail posts were too big, so I went back to the lathe and reworked those previously done and continued to run the production line. I laminated the taft rail using 1/32" basswood. I soaked it and set it with pins to dry. I glued the first one and then as I added the rest to shape, their wetness undid to glue....oops. Anyway adding more pins and clamping saved the day. The side rails were ripped down hard wood. I also had to cant them 10 degrees. Before gluing it down, I used my mini drill press [ my new present to myself for the year]. Then I glued and nailed the rail to the water plank leaving the 1/16" projection. I then took soft copper wire and super glued it into the holes [ see photo]. I took the turned posts to the band saw. I marked out lines at 22 degrees and then placed a mark at mid points of each post. I then turned them 22 degrees and cut them out. I set up quality control after cutting and had to take 10% and touch them to the sanding disk. I then took them and drilled small holes in the bottom to accept the setting pins. A little more super glue and turned posts were glued both to the pin and the rail. I set the 3/16" x 1/16" basswood fly rail as a guide to help line them up. Despite checking them there were still several that needed 1/32 shims to fill in to the fly rail. Also a little filling was needed as some for the holes drilled into the small posts came through. I set the straight turned posts at the taft rail and used 5 pieces of plank to tie in the rail. I carved it to shape and wow! After painting the rails we are on our way....not sure where ..but definitely it's a boat. pre decking I found much conflicting information while researching decking. In general the plans show this schooner was done in 4"x4"s. In subsequent years they upped the deck to 5"x4" and then some at 6"x4". Also the 6 "king" planks using 6"x4" showed up on all but the plans for Charles Notman. I decided to install the 6 each 6" inch [ 1/8"] planks as I set the masts holes and some key furniture. I also decided to order new 3/32" X 1/16" basswood for the planking. I am OK milling down to 1/8" but am concerned for quality at thinner. I needed to complete the forward house. To do that I needed the side winches, so I went back to the lathe. I had fun turning down simple dowels with files to get the shape. I penetrated the house with copper wire again and am ready to glue them up. I turned the two foc'sle winches. I tried different woods and failed, so for now [ then easily be replaced when I learn better] I filed down a 3/8" poplar dowels. I used a brass nail head and cut a brass screw head to make the tops. I ended by making the fore & aft bitts and steering house. I set the small forward deck at the fore bitts. I built a temporary wheel house [ I hope to replace it after making an emergency tiller to add to the detail. In fact I have an idea to make the steering gear and having the box open but that needs more learned skills and perhaps not a sailing model. lots more to do before decking

well we're back. It is two days into spring and it is still snowing.....nuts. anyway this is a fun step. step 9 clean up the hull and start making the fly rails. I said last time there is a need to turn over the hull and work on the shear planks. The underdeck plywood projects out across the hull planking. It is not part of the " upper" [ extended poop deck] plank shear. I sanded, filled and cleaned up the edge. I then added the waterway planks above with a 1/16 projection. For the width of the waterway in different zones, I went around and around comparing details between the Bertha Down and the Cora Cressy and make a few compromises. In general I left the combined water way to be just over 2 feet. Fortunately the decking starts in the center, so as the decking progresses I will visit this decision again. In several of the details there is a third water plank roughly 9 inches [ 3/16"]. I have a piece, and I tried it. I just don't like the look of it....yet. I ripped down miscellaneous hard wood strips for these inner pieces and used milled 1/8" x 1/4" basswood for the outer piece as it is easier to align. For the "lower" main deck shear plank I added a 3/32" by 1/16" basswood planks around the hull. I followed the Douglas Lee drawings which showed it to be parallel to the upper shear plank. I then added the chock rail in the forecastle area. I found I needed to infill the side bulkheads above the main deck in the recessed area [ between the main and fore masts] to allow the best completion of the transition from this area to the upper shear plank that carries forward from the poop deck to the forecastle. Here again I had to decide what to do. The Cora Cressy showed this area enclosed on the interior and the Bertha Downs left the structure exposed. I chose to close it in, as that detail is the same builder as the Cora C. The bottom two planks were 1/16" and the upper 1/32", so I needed to put in all the stations @ 3' to hold the 1/32" planks. I also chose to fill in the break wall at the forward end of the poop deck because access would become more difficult. I was able to do some clean up and repaint the hull. Painting the waterways was just fun! production time. I need to make 110 or so turned posts for the fly rails and some other details. I got a small lathe from my brother's shop and this is all a learning process. my first free hand attempt to make 8 posts was not good. I had about three different size ball sections. I chose to connect two razor saw blades over a 1/8 by 1/4 plank so I could cut consistent 1/8 slots. I then was able to use small angle and or square files to shape the turned section of the post. I got a supply of hard wood from the Downeast modelers guild. Sorry but I am not able to know which is which. Several planks looked perfect though they were just a hair big......second attempt see photo. I jump ahead to show when I tried one it was just too big so I had to rip down the strips to the 1/8 by 1/8 size and redo them.....next posting I need almost 90 mast hoops for 5/8" mast and similar for the top mast.....1/4" and 5/16". I know I should be learning how to roll 1/64" plywood or other schemes. I choose however to try used aged ' natural patina or even treated' copper. To save my sanity....I am not good enough yet to slice 100 rings off copper tube with consistent 1.5 MM width..... I cheated and bought some. I show them next to some older ones I have that with sufficient age turned brown. they look ok to me. For the next month I have put the new ones outside to see sun and rain and see how they darken. I may treat them but that is for another time.

stage 8 glue down the under deck Well I have the second to last messy, or more like carpenter process to get through here before we focus on scale model issues. I can't wait for that change. This stage glue up started with the foc'sle deck. I used several screws to hold the curves and clamps and it went OK. Everything here is wes system for water proof. As I moved to the main deck I again used screws. It was at his point that I started to worry about all the holes I was leaving and trying to fill with resin. When I progressed to the extended poop deck Starboard side, I reduced the screws by adding boxes of lead weights to hold down the edge. By the time I did the Port side I used all lead and clamps and no screws. I had to finish up the rudder. I planked it, and while painting I was able to better see between coats and remove the few resin spots that made it to the planking. A final coat of resin puts the waterproofing here below the finish materials. The decking at this scale and other detail I fear would be lost if coated. Considering all the new holes I will make for bitts and things I may be wrong but at least it will be out of sight. Looking at the deck photo, nothing there will be visible. The next and hopeful last messy work area is clear to see in the photo of gluing down the last aft poop deck with the rudder in place. I will need to turn the boat back over and clean it up, filling and sanding the sides again and getting a good black coat up to the under deck. But first I need to get out of the snow for a few days and we are headed to Florida. At least I leave it almost looking like a boat.

stage 7 final part 3 This final part started by taking the model to our monthly meeting of the Downeast Modelers Guild held monthly at the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath. Part of the purpose was to get help on issues I am struggling with as I find my way. I got some good ideas for Mast hoops that can sail, agreement that someone needs to help me with my soldering, and guidance on several options for large quantity of turn buckles I am going need. Well back to work on all that must be done before gluing down the under deck Anchors: Studying the Cora Cressy [ 5 master] details the anchors were said to be Baldt Stockless Anchors at 8000 pounds, roughly 6 feet across. Studying the Bertha Downs [ 4 master] details the anchors were said to be similar Stockless anchor at 4000 pounds, roughly 3 feet across. gee what to do?? I went to good old Blue Jacket Shipcrafters and ordered two sizes so I could compare and decide. see in the photo. I chose the compromise and they are about 4.5 feet across. If that is a straight line comparison they would be perhaps 5500 pounds. My thought is they were from the same builder as the Cora Cressy, so even though a smaller boat and 7 years earlier, I chose to go with the larger size than the Bertha Down. Any way I also chose them because they look great. I filed them enough so they would swing properly and project from the hawse pipe that was roughly 30% on the vertical . I used some 2oz cloth across the inside of the block and three coats of resin to be sure to be good and rigid and hopefully water proof. servos here I set up four servos The fore staysail and the flying jib both have small booms and therefore short swings. The servo is forward and I made a single loop with one ring to tie both sheets. The sheets have to be routed either through the fore cabin or all the way through the foc'sle deck. For that I also gouged out the Bowsprit under the deck as the sheet comes up forward of the bitts. I used the little brass servo washers as fairleads. This servo will likely run in series with the main servo . I will show later. The outer jib and jib staysail are tricky. The servo is forward with a single loop. There are two rings, one on each side, so one goes forward slacking while the other comes aft and tightens. They have sheets leading to the aft of the foc'sle deck that wrap up and over the inner stays. This will be tricky to adjust, to avoid snagging etc etc. My theory is [ untested][ with a little slack in the loose sheet there is hesitation, so when I start the servo, the windward side ring goes forward the sheet loosens before the other tugs. The leeward sheet runs as its ring on the loop return goes aft to pull the sheet all the way around. I get about 7 inches in each direction and will work to make this work. I will do more later but I think this servo will be on its own signal and be in delay to the change of direction. The main sail servo is located aft. It has a single loop and 4 rings. The rings, like the jib rings all are located to hopefully sit under the hatch openings when at rest. All four masts will have the same cycle that I assume will be roughly 5-6" of the available 7 inches. The sheets come up just forward of each mast 3 times and aft of the rudder for the spanker. I may have to cheat to get the spanker sheet angles to math with the shorter booms. The rudder is a struggle because there is no access over the rudder post for standard fitting. In my base design all the deck beams are similar [ deep] and the rudder post [ 1/8 brass rod] was to be bent at 90 deg forward to allow access to its attachment inside the cockpit [ opened after cabin]. One of the Downeast Guild members with lots of sailing experience came over to inspect before I did the deck. Like other pond yacht sailors these guys think about sailing and on the water adjustments more than scale . They also think about what snags will catch lines and break the servo as we try to come about. " shouldn't I run the loops up on deck?????" My answer is I am building a scale model that can sail perhaps occasionally, not a racing boat. Not sure I pass the test. After Tom left I thought more about the rudder and decided to redo it. I removed the deep beam and replaced it with a coped beam giving access aft of the cockpit. I then 'Dremel sand gouged' out more of the transom block around the rudder giving it more space. I can now use a standard pond yacht steering arm. It goes on the shaft at installation and the allen wrench access can be done from the cockpit. I am still using the string instead of direct connection. I am also using a larger servo as I do not yet understand how much force will come in through the rudder.... Rudder After gluing up the inner section [ 3 ply of ply wood] with L shaped brass shafts encased, I planked the outside to get the right look. I then shaped the sailing rudder including slots to receive the two brass rods. I dry fit it so I could mark the water line. It needs more work and will be in place before the after deck. Final prep for the decking is fairing and more fairing. I also added under blocking for the bits. we are ready for the deck...I hope.... or better said....I have decided to install the under deck...end stage 7

Thanks Lextin I'll check it out Cheers

stage 7 part 2 I continue a bit scattered in my activity. I find as I study one aspect to another I need something.....how unusual. with almost four feet of snow over the past several weeks here in Maine, I am challenging UPS, fed ex ground et al. currently on order a handle so I can use the small dies to cut threads onto the 1/8 brass rods needed to attach the sailing rudder to the display rudder. see photo with this approach there will be two 1/8 threaded rods protruding from the display rudder. the sailing rudder would slide on to the rods and with holes perhaps 3/4" , allow fitting a washer and nut to hold it in place. I may try to build the display rudder with two holes but I fear it isn't big enough. To add washer and nut would take up too much of the display rudder. I need the rods to transfer the torque of the sailing rudder and thus the longer bend of the brass will take the stress better. unfortunately that means a few extraneous rods. I have seen nesting connecting rods but that are typical 1/4 diameter or bigger. servos of two types on order. This is my weakest area of knowledge, and I will be experimenting on this subject. I will need switches and wires and connectors and and ?? I am sure more than one more order hear. mast hoops for a sailing model. well I tried cutting out of copper pipe. with the patina the old pipe is a nice brown. Also I actually have a few pieces of 5/8 ID recovered from my brothers steam engine shop. The problem is that using a band saw the best I can do makes them1/8 and that would be 6 inches wide....urgh I ordered the birch plywood ones from Bluejacket. they are wonderful for static models. I am not sure if they are strong enough and will do some testing. I ordered copper flat washers 17 x 21 MM and 1.5 mm thick. If the copper will age, they may be perfect. I anxiously await them. making up a roll and cutting...I am still stuck with the thickness issue and strength for sailing I have o rings that would be very functional but hopefully I can avoid using. To buy them brown is >$.30 each wow anchors...two sizes on the way with other fittings from Bluejacket....they will protrude from the hull and need to be water proofed. This is to be a story in itself.. Resin....off to the local store sail and rigging material. I have lots of nice Muslim that I use for stationary sails. since I plan to look at the model more than to sail it , I plan to try them first. I am also thinking about trying some 2 oz Dacron. More to think about I need sheets that work well, feed through the fairleads, allow for on the water adjustment etc. but don't look too big. I believe this will be an area to justify a little over sizing. Lizards and seized grommets are nicely described by Douglas Lee for both lacing to gaffs and lashing to hoops. The smallest brass grommets I have are OK for the clew , reef points etc. but too big for lacing. On stationary models I just sewed the hoops and that is my current choice shrouds are cable. I can not put too much load on cable to keep it straight. I plan to use wire and copper/brass pipe for crimps. Again the problem is scale. I have some thin wire bought years ago from Fisher and that is another internet search. turnbuckles. My method is 2 brass eyes tail to tail with a 1/16 brass tube all glued. In stationary I would just make it up by using black coated wire. Here I am trying to make galvanized and would love to figure out how to make the slots. On the lower mast shrouds they line up and have a wooden turnbuckle keeper...nice detail if I can doo it progress mast stepping this was a lot of fun. Here I set up the hull on the level work bench and did my measuring to get the mast all to the same point. The tops of the lower masts on these schooners was level as they are all connected with spring stays. I then checked it out with a 4 foot carpenter level and yippee. I then build the mast deck surrounds. one minor fact to note is that the rake of the masts changes as one works aft. The foremast rake is 1.75, the main and mizzen are 2 inches and the spanker is 2.25. more preparation prior to the under deck the fairing process goes on. I needed a little more on the transom to make it square up and several cross beams to be able to set the anchors I need to build inward the hawse planks . I call it a wall in this case. I shall drill the hawse holes through all of this. I will then add a second block with a smaller hole to receive the anchor shaft, then hopefully this opening will be water proof. masts: the Sitka spuce is pretty. If I just varnish it , it will also be pretty but light. The old masts were all oil and not so pretty. I have experimented and selected a light coating of cherry stain . In the first photo I just applied it to the first mast....it covers the grain. in the second photo I have rubbed off most of the stain and the grain comes through and I hope I am more representative of oiled spruce. the 3rd photo shows all the other spars after their coat of rubbed stain. the yokes were made of a hard wood for strength. it has a tiger maple look to it and it will be a shame if or when I paint them all black...... all spars get clear polyurethane. I set the bow sprit after adding the bee, the jib boom block and some brass bobstay bands. again I continue to use copper wire epoxied as pins where I am looking for added strength. I used them also in evey cross beam connection on the deck framing and mast surrounds all for part 2

stage 7 part 1 this is not really a stage; it will be all the work in many categories that should be done before the drastic step of gluing down the under deck. it includes all the planning for sailing rigging, mounting of servos and string loops and rings for tie off of the various sheets completion of the hull detailing roughing out the spars building and installing the rudder planning out ballast and the mounted keel planning for the upper deck planks and deck furniture that like knightheads that might need to penetrate. planning for the vertical walls at forward drop from the poop deck and forward cabin and forecastle structure. the other things that I will likely forget to do before gluing it down This post is the first part as it represents figuring out some of this. I include the following photos to describe this first week of activity. To design the keel I have decided to follow in principal the Marblehead vintage class. They are 50 inch boats. I researched the A boats many years back, and they were close to 60 inches but had very similar lines. I include views of two Marbleheads: the first is the Naskeag which has split lead bulbs @ 10 # on plywood 'dagger' board shape. The design builds out the keel section but I chose not to that on mine. This deeper narrower dagger would be the modern vintage look I guess ???? the second is an Antique Gus Lassel boat built in 1936 that I bought in Marblehead about 15 years ago. It was in bad shape and I restored it [ probably ruining the antique value alas].......The keel is 1/4 plywood built up with cedar clapboards for a nice shape. The lead is a full bulb with brass rods holding it to the hull, and I prefer to avoid that detail but like the more classic sweep. My compromise plan is to us the split bulb on 1/2 plywood [ still thinking about thickness and I may laminate with 1/4 plus cedar clapboard.] This choice avoids any penetrations to the hull. I would never display this boat with the keel so I almost want it to look extra. To determine the weight of bulb, I need to get on with a few things. I include a picture of Turbo CAD taking the area below the water line on one station. I did it and then dropped it 1/4 " just to understand the difference in displacement and have a tolerable range. Using a simple excel sheet I calculated that the 3 inch water line displaces 36 pounds. The hull today is 10 pounds, so what I need to figure out is what the completed boat shall weigh. To raise the boat 1/4 inch [ reduce the waterline 1/4] removes about 5 pounds, so that is a range that I would be happy with . I believe I am headed toward 13-15 pounds required in the bulb if that is sole source of ballast. I have small lead pieces that I could add to the bilge if I chose. I still have my old mold that I carved out for the Naskeag bulbs. each half was 5 #. By adding a layer 1/4 inch deeper and roughly 1/4 all around I add about 2# to the half. I think that would get me there. Rudder design I show the Cad work to design a Naskeag style rudder for sailing. I hope it can be removable. This is risky but worth it. with this design I will have 1/8 wood forward of the1/8 brass shaft. this dimension and allowing 1/16 clear, I shall redrill the rudder shaft hole 3/16 aft the skin of the rudder is 1/16 birch plywood. the brass rod is bent into the rudder for torque. a separate sleeve at the bottom allows a brass rod to penetrate the extend keel and shoe. I show the mock up of the rudder.....easy to see how much better it would look if the outer part can be removed when not sailing. Masts and spars. again several years ago I was studying masts and learned that Sitka Spruce from Oregon up to Alaska was the best material. I saw more and more of it on friendship sloops and other Maine boats. I bought some 3/4 and 1/2 stock 7 feet long to build masts for the Marblehead Naskeag. They are in deed beautiful. reading A Shipyard in Maine, you learn that by 1895 the tall spruces of New England were gone. Large 100 foot spruce from Oregon was trained across the continent and wiggled down the trolley track to the shipyard. So what better material for my replica of a Maine Schooner than Sitka Spruce!!!. I cut out 4 blanks and have since rounded them and shaped them. For all the other spars I defer to the poplar dowels. As lengths are only 11 to 13 inches they should be durable and in most cases allow thinning down some at the ends. I did the upper masts today. I found I did have some square poplar 5/8 and replaced my bowsprit servos etc...I have ordered more servos deck and hull details: I need about one and a half planks added to the center of the transom to come up and meet the poop deck crown. I needed about half and plank tapered to bring up the sides at forecastle deck and bowsprit. The bowsprit goes inboard under the forecastle deck. stay tuned for part 2

Bob I loved your last build of the Lettie Howard. It was one of many I have been enjoying this past year as I transitioned from work to play [ retirement] and then built up my courage to start sharing. length of deck: there are a few different opinions as I hear it. the purists say, I believe I understand it, that the rudder post to forward end of the main deck is the regulation length. Douglas Lee says reg length is 219.3 feet. that would be just under 55 inches I on the other hand am not limited to be a purest. I say from the tail of the Poop deck to the forward end of the forecastle deck and it measures 238 feet on the drawing. That scales to 59.5 and I surprised myself as I just measured and it was right on. Thus I say if you add the forward and aft rails at a 1/4" each, its a five footer ha ha wait till I add the jib boom to the bow sprit and over hang the spanker boom. that is another 20 + inches I hope it fits in the car????? oops cheers

Stage 6 prepare insides and deck beams: The first item I needed was to get a deck plan to allow layout of the deck structure. There is a compromise between simply copying the 1/96 design and making it 1/48 to then make it support radio sail. I figured the best approach was to draw the plan by extending down all of the bulkhead lines. The aft edge of each bulkhead is the design line. [ my choice for a little sanity] I set up a new layer and then did a centerline and offset on either side for each of the dimensions for openings or lengths of beams. I did this progressively for each beam and then hatch opening [ horizontal/ fore and aft beam] By example I would go to station 6 and set the offset for the length of the beam. For clarity I trimmed the line to the center side of the station 6 [ right side] and allowed the extensions outward [ to the left] to remain. This created an intersection I then connected this intersection with each similar in progression with a polyline to create the perimeter of the deck. I then drew a line snapping to the intersections of the extended bulkhead lines [ 6 in this example] and the perimeter polyline. By thickening it up the beams became easy to see. I then connected the horizontal beams for the hatch and house openings as a side note, if you look in the hull cross section to the right in the photo of the drawing you can see the square frame extending up to make the bulkhead legs that attached each to the building board. this process kept the hull level in the side view you can see the photos of the Douglas Lee Plans 1/96 that were stretched to fit the bulkhead lines that were controlled as they were set up by offsets planning for radio. here I looked at the cabins and hatches and decided what I wanted to open for access. I will lay that out on another layer later. Honestly I am figuring that out as I go. I am ok with the basics just not sure if I need 2,3 or hopefully not 4 sail servos. not for now . my selection is to open the aft cabin for rudder, power switch, connect to charge and receiver, then the aft hatch for batteries. Then combine the center hatch and cabin for the main servos. Finally the forward hatch will allow access to ties for the forward sheets. there is a water proof issue here so this is only an off water access. this plan resulted in moving several beams to accommodate the best access. beams I chose to rip down poplar into 5/8 by 5/16 and the cut off a blank for each main beam. the deck crown is 10 inches, so I used 1/4 inch = 12 inches and touched the high point with a sander. looks like 10 inches from here this means after taper each beam will be at least 3/8 deep at the edge and with the 5/16 width a nice surface for gluing down the 1/16 plywood under deck. [another stage] I used the previous temporary bulk head supports [ removed during planking] for the fill in hatch beams and edge beams. note: in the Bertha Downs or the Cora Cressy details drawings as reference, the deck to planking shear plank cross sections have a few different details pending location. I also have to deal with the main deck that is 1 to 1.5 inch's lower between the main mast and the foremast. My starting plan for water tightness is to have the under deck 1/16 plywood @ extend over the shear plank and be sanded back. it shall be attached to the beams and shear plank by epoxy. There is a problem with this boat's 1895 first of class , shall we say trial and error design that includes the extended poop deck. This design is well described in the book A Shipyard in Maine. Its major flaw in the design for them was due to weakness. For me the radio sailor [ optimistically at least] what to do about little water coming over the rail and into the main deck area ? it is affectively a potential water tank !!!!!! How do I try to make this area water proof. again this is a proto type....Fortunately the future schooners I will make to not have this extended poop deck and the main deck is a bit higher. back to the process log Deck plan usage: I took the plan and printed it out in 4 each 11x17 sheets. Laying on the top of the hull they actually fit, so I was happy. see photo Next I used them to collect each beam as I shaped it .see photo to do that I took my proxxon and set the angle to 3 deg and it nicely cut the "crown" bevel on each side. Dry fitting deck beams on board: I needed to set up a bow sprit. it allowed extending my centerline by string as far as possible. see photo I know it needs to be square and it will be. I do not have a 5/8 square stock and thus substituted a dowel. Stay tuned, and as soon as I get to the spars, it will be fixed! Glue up: during the above work I continuously worked on preparing the insides. This involves water spray and scrape to remove all the paper from the stations on the remaining frames. I had to sand with power drill drum or dremel small drum each frame back down to the 1/2 inch offset line to remain and below the mast steps. The floor frames also will provide support to lower radio equipment deck to come. In fact they needed to be planned out and loose fit as the largest one could only go in before the beams. they are 1/8 luan plywood and one can be seen in the photos. another continuous part is to dry fit several beams as a batch. then before I went crazy remembering so many pieces, glue up say 10 or so pieces. then the remainder of the resin in each batch is used to progressively cover all of the inside planking. this is done to reinforce the water base wood glue, fill gaps and further assure water tightness. Also I experimented and used either small steel brads or preferred 14 gauge electrical copper wire as epoxy pegs for cross beams. there were 4 basic glue up batches to get all of the beams in place. it was tricky to find clamping especially for the main deck section between the Main mast and fore mast. I fear I found some lost vocabulary as I struggled with gravity The rudder post. as mentioned I need to redrill the rudder post hole roughly 1/8 to 3/16 aft of the existing hole. so to prepare for this fix I took a dowel and epoxy glued it into the existing hole. [ a potential leak]. I need to first make the rudder, hide the brass shaft and then see where to drill the hole. end of stage 6