KevinR

I going to try to post a little more frequently (and there's a bit more progress to see instead of another 25 treenails).
 
I'm now constructing the coach roof. For fun and practice for my next project, I've decided to build this up with framing; even though it's all going to be hidden.
 
 
 
Richard.

Greetings,
I've been working in the ELCO just over two years now and I can finally see a light at the end of the tunnel.  Today I finished work on the four torpedo tubes, they still ned to be painted and the torpedo head mounted in the forward end of the tube but the hard part is finally behind me.    
 
The impulse chambers have been mounted along with all the brass photo-etch parts on the tubes, the hardest part was cutting and mounting the rings to the reinforcing plates, (see photos below).
 
Reinforcing rings for torpedo tube still on the tree.
 

 
Reinforcing ring in first step for sizing to fit the tube, the forward and rear rings are two different sizes.
 

 
Test fitting reinforcing rings until final size is obtained.
 

 

 

 
Torpedo tube complete with all brass and reinforcing rings attached.
 

 
Cheers,
Tim

I decided to jump course a bit on the build. The practicum constructs a double decked framing jig. I actually cut all the parts for it then decided to change methods. I had looked at a number of builds which used a Gantry Jig to assemble the models. I liked the idea and it certainly provides more access to the frames. The order of construction changes a bit since the practicum starts in the middle and works toward the ends. With the Gantry, you work from the ends toward the middle.
 
One aspect of using the gantry is the ability to trace any of the ships curves to the frame during construction. So I combined the half breadth, the keel and the frame alignment plans into one master which will be underneath the build. This should allow me to check the alignment of a frame against any of the curves quickly.
 
The gantry is complete. I still have to attach the scales to all of the members. Once that is done, I will use them to finalize the alignment of the master plan which will be on the bottom of the jig. I had the plan printed and laminated so it will be more protected as well as keeping glue squeeze out from damaging it.
 
Once all the scales and plans are affixed, I will create the holding and clamping surfaces to mount the keel and clamp cant frames etc. 
 
So framing will commence soon.
 
Below are a couple of photos of the scales and master plans after getting them back from lamination. These are sclaed to 1:48.
 

 

 
This shot shows the bow. The red lines are where the cant frames hit the keel. The green lines map where they intersect the outside waterline. The black vertical lines are the square frames. 
 

 
Midsection
 

 
and Stern
 

 
This shows the gantry with the keel assemble temporarily on the plan. The bow is being held by a temporary appliance. 
 

 
The top horizontal member will have the scale laying toward the bottom of the shot attached to it. 
 

 

 
The lower horizontal member will slide up or down. I made it out of an aluminum straight edge. The forward side has inches on it. The back side has the 1:48 scale. It is narrow enough that it will pass through the spaces between frames. By using a square on the master plan, lines can be traced upwards through the model.
 

 

 
The T-Slots allow the gantry to be moved easily along the model It can be used as well as a clamping brace. In addition, the T-Slot also allows other appliances to be held and moved as they require. I also will be attaching other blocks through the mater plan via hanger bolts with slots in the appliances allowing easy adjustment. The measuring strips are marked in both inches and centimeters. This also will confirm that the frames are square as they are moved around the frame.
 
 

I used hot glue to glue the keel blocks to the gantry jig. This allowed me to keep them very small and still hold the keel adequately. I also removed the keels tail since it is not required with the gantry. 
After this was done, I used some cherry to build a test frame. I wanted to go through the process from cutting the raw wood to having the frame ready to mount to the keel. I chose Frame X as my test subject - Bwhahaha.

I used a band saw to cut the frame out once the glue dried. Then I used the Oscillating Sander to remove the excess wood to the line for the frame. I used the Scroll saw to trim the keel slot and cleaned it up with a file. Once that was done, I used a #57 drill to drill the drift holes. I did this in the drill press since it allows me to keep the frame at a specific angle during the drilling. In this case, of course at 90 degrees.

I used the Byrnes drawplate to make bamboo pins. These I glued into the holes. I have not yet trimmed these back since the glue is still drying but I did try a test fit with the gantry. Since this is a test frame and also made of Cherry, this will not go any further than trimming the sanding the pins. I will instead move on to completing the new lofting set then start working on the frames at the stern first. 

My plan (always subject to change) is to start the frames with the last full square frame. Then work back to the stern through the counter timbers. Once the stern is complete, I will head to the bow, per Mike, Gary, and Ray's excellent advice.

Since this is my absolute first attempt at making a frame, please comment if you see I am doing something stupid.

Thanks,

Once I saw the end approaching to my USS Constitution build I started looking for my next project. I was looking for something that would hook my interest in both the construction as well as the history. I wanted something challenging that would also push my skills. I found and downloaded Gene Bodnar’s Practicum on the USS Brig Eagle. This is a plank on Frame Admiralty build that can be fully rigged or left unrigged in Admiralty style.
 
The Eagle was built at Vergennes, Vermont between July 23rd and August 11th of 1814 by shipwright Adam Brown. An amazing feat in itself when you consider it generally took many months to build a ship of this size and the shipbuilders who built this ship did it in only 19 days. But time was of the essence.
 
The wreck of the ship was found in the freshwater mud off Lake Champlain and fully documented in the dissertation. It was a built in 19 days for the war of 1812 and was responsible in large part for the defeat of the British fleet in the Battle of Plattsburg Bay. However it was built of green wood and began to rot almost as soon as it was completed. After the war it was stripped and mothballed and eventually sunk where she was mothballed.
 
The practicum is a detailed instruction for taking the basic ship's plans and working through the lofting process to the completed build. This modeling project at 1/4" = 1' scale is based on a Masters Thesis and plans by Professor Kevin J Crisman of Texas A & M University.
 
Here are some brief notes on the Eagle from the Texas A&M Nautical Archaeology Program site.
 
 
 
The United States Navy brig Eagle was built at Vergennes, Vermont, and constituted the final addition to Commodore Thomas Macdonough's War of 1812 naval squadron on Lake Champlain. The 117-foot-long hull was constructed and launched by master shipwright Adam Brown in only 19 days during the summer 1814. Outfitted with two masts and 20 cannon, and manned by a crew of 150 men, the brig participated in Macdonough's defeat of an invading British naval fleet at the Battle of Plattsburgh Bay. The Eagle was maintained for several years after the war, until her timbers became decayed and she was abandoned by the Navy in 1825.
 
The submerged and partially-dismembered wreck of the Eagle was discovered in 1981 near Whitehall, New York. A two-year archaeological study of the vessel was sponsored by the Champlain Maritime Society, during which time the dimensions of the hull timbers were documented by divers. Archival research was also conducted on the history of the warship.
 
Wreck plans were prepared from the measurements recorded by the divers, and the techniques of hull construction employed by Adam Brown were examined. The wreck plans and contemporary construction information were then used to reconstruct the original appearance of the brig. The design and assembly of the Eagle were graphically depicted in the form of hull lines, construction plans, and rigging plans. The hull of the brig was compared to other War of 1812 warships on the oceans, and on Lakes Erie, Ontario, and Champlain.
 
The evaluation of the hull and the comparison with contemporary vessels have led to the conclusion that the Eagle was specially designed for accelerated construction and a career on the shallow, protected waters of Lake Champlain.
 
 
 
This is attractive because it will be a challenge that will require lofting my own plans as well as building my first Plank on Frame ship. It is also supported by a detailed practicum as well as the extensive dissertation. While it is being built by a small number of modelers on Model Ship Builder, Gene Bodnar, the developer of the practicum is very active on the boards.
 
Fully rigged the ship’s dimensions will be:
 
L = 45"
H = 31 1/4"
W = 6 1/2"
 
Here is a photo from the practicum.
 

Here’s the new deck. As it turned out I did add a king plank.
 

First I glued black paper to a .03” thick sheet of bass wood
 

I then sliced it into .03” strips
 

I then made the deck frame
 

I planked it while the frame was on the boat
 

More to come but the deck planking is done.
 
Bob

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

Carl, thanks for telling me it’s OK to have vinyl, it is easier to take care of than cloth.
Lawrence, thanks for the good words and encouragement.
 
If you recall, back on page three I had started to add the deck framing around the cockpit area.  Then I decided to make the cockpit a separate part like I did the cabin interior.  So the deck framing had to come off.  Then after the cabin and cockpit were “done” I again added the deck frames.(sorry no pictures) and started to lay the deck when I saw more things I wanted to do inside but I couldn’t work through the deck framing and it had to come off again.  That's when I took the idea from Patrick (Omega1234) and made the deck a separate part.  Thanks to Patrick I can make changes to the insides when I like.  But now I don’t like the deck.  It’s the calking.  It would be alright for a larger work boat but for a nice pleasure boat I feel the calking needs to be crisper and more definite.  So that’s where I am right now.  Another deck to make.  Hopefully the last for this boat.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Construction of the chataThe ribs were created from 0.05" (1.25mm) blanks of cherry. I was not confident in the accuracy of the drawings nor the templates I created from them, so I planned to do final shaping after assembly on a building jig.  This required the ability to remove the blanks after shaping so that the inside could be cut away.
 
Since there is no keel, temporary spacers held the frames in position and provided support while shaping the delicate pieces.  The spacers could be removed, and pegs allowed each blank to be removed from its spacer, the inside cut to shape, and then returned to the same position.
 
Once all the frames and spacers were attached to the building board, the stem and stern pieces were added (being necessary to properly fair the frames).
  
 
The inside cut creates separate port and starboard side-frames.  These are connected by a floor lapped to the side of the frame closest to centerline.  Once the floors were added, the frame assemblies and spacers (now notched for the floors) were reattached to the building board.
  
 
Side and bottom planking underway, and complete.  The planks are 0.02" (.5mm) holly.
 
 
     
 
Interior details being added
 
  
 
More pictures and text can be found on my model club page for this build.

Culé ou Barco de água Acima
 
I got the plans for this boat at the Museu de Marinha in Lisbon when our cruise ship made an all-too-brief stop there. The museum is incredible.
 
Barco de água Acima roughly translates to "boat of the upper river".   It is designed to transport cargo from the shallow upper reaches of the Tagus River and via canals.
 
The cruise was in 2005.  I started work on the boat's tender in 2006.  As you have already surmised, there have been long periods of inactivity...
  The boat's tender is called a chata, which directly translated means 'flat', but in this context it means a flat-bottomed boat.
 

 
I think the chata reached it's current nearly-complete state a couple of years later.  I did not start on the main vessel until December 2012.  The picture below shows it when it was cut away from the building jig just a couple of weeks ago. There are two more rows of planking above the wale that have not yet been added.
 

 
The big challenge with both the boat and its tender is that they are carvel planked but with no keel.  So I had to come up with my own building jig.  I've since seen some similar approaches, but not until after I had derived my own.
 
When time permits, I'll add some more posts showing the progress from the beginning.  Also, you can see my page on our club website:

William M. “Mike” Lonnecker. 
 
I am a retired engineer with a degree in Mechanical Engineering (BSME) from the University of Kansas. I worked in Texas and California as a Program Manager and Project Engineer in the Defense and Aerospace Industry until retiring in 2002. I currently reside in Poway (San Diego) California with Sandy, my wife of 44 years.
 
My interests have included woodworking, flying sailplanes, sailing, hot rodding and modeling all types of “vehicles”. I have been a student of design, modeling and building projects since completing my first plastic model car at age 6 or 7.  I now prefer to work on 1: 48 scale ship models of the late 18th century and am building my fourth ship model, The FLY, using David Antscherl’s Swan series of books.
 
I am a member of the San Diego Ship Modelers’ Guild and serve as Guild Master (President). I am also an active member of the Ship Modelers Association of Fullerton (SMA) and, of course, am a Director of the NRG where I am also chair of the mentor program and am currently mentoring one member. I enjoy sharing my modeling and machining skills with other modelers and regularly give demonstrations at club meetings and invite other members to my shop to work out difficult problems or aid new modelers with their projects.  My MSW screen name is Mike.
 

Toni Levine
 
Like so many of us, I started building models when I was a child.  The first model I remember building was a Monogram F6F-5 Hellcat which was originally given to my brother but it seemed that the “girl” had more aptitude for this than he did.  My first ship models were small Scientific carved hull models which I built during high school.  Model building was then shelved for several years while I completed my education (BS and MD from the University of Illinois) and residency training (Northwestern University).  My first plank-on-bulkhead model was Peregrine Galley by Mantua.  It is my only model built with a full coat of sails.  Over the years, my projects progressed from out-of-the-box kits to kit-bashing and finally scratch building.  My current project is Atalanta, a Swan-class sloop built in the fully framed style popularized by David Antscherl. 
 
I have been a physician since 1980 and specialize in otolaryngology (ear, nose and throat).  Like so many of us, my career prevents me from spending much time building ships.  I am a member of the Nautical Research and Model Society of Chicago and have been a member of the NRG since 1989 and a Director since 2013.  I live in the Chicago area with my husband.  My other interests include gardening, water gardening and home brewing.  My MSW screen name is tlevine.
 

Phil Roach
 
I have practiced law since 1988 and have had a private law practice in Bonita Springs since 1994. I graduated with a Bachelor of Arts Degree from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1985 and then attended Campbell University School of Law where I received my Juris Doctorate (J.D.) degree in 1988. Following graduation I moved from my hometown of Fayetteville, N.C. to become a full time resident of Southwest Florida. I belong to the Collier County Bar Association and the Florida Bar. I have been married to my wife Marina since 1988 and we have two children, Nicholas and Elizabeth.
 
I am an active member of the Rotary Club of Bonita Springs Noon and am currently serving on the Board of Directors. My prior service to the Club includes holding the position of President, Club Rotary Foundation Committee Chairman and I have served on the Board of Directors for various terms over my more than 20 year membership in the club.
I am also an active member of the Southwest Florida Ship Modelers’ Guild and I currently hold the position of President. I also served as liaison to the Nautical Research Guild for the Regional Conference previously held in Fort Myers, Florida.
 
I enjoy American history and its maritime heritage. My modeling interests are sailing ships and lately, that interest is gravitating backwards in time to vessels of the Revolutionary War period, vessels of the Colonial era, and the vessels of exploration of the North American Continent. Although my full time practice of law forbids me from modeling as much as I would like, I very much enjoy the research.  My MSW screen name is roach101761.
 

Hi everyone.  Thanks for your Likes, especially Igor (for the cups), Tuffarts, Lawrence, Mick (Yamsterman), and Mike Gerber for their comments!

A bit of a milestone happened tonight. I've managed to build the main cabin's superstructure. I've cut a temporary roof to fit over the cabin in order to give a better impression of what the final product will look like.

Overall, the cabin may look deceptively simple, but in actual fact it was the most complex part of the whole ship. Why? The reason is that because the ship's interior has been built, the cabin floor and companionway staircase must fit just exactly right. Getting the height of the cabin floor wrong would mean that the internal doorways from the midship cabins through to the aft owner's stateroom would be too low for a person to fit through. So, quite a bit of brain power and planning had to go into it to get it just right. The cabin also has its own settees and table in it as well, so getting that right was a challenge as well.

Oh well, there may still be heaps of work to go, but at least it's been fun so far.

Hope you enjoy the photos.

All the best

Patrick

I wasn't planning on posting tonight, but I discovered a problem.
I planned out the mast and sampson post placement.

Then I started on the blocking for the mast. It looked pretty good and I was kind of proud about what I had accomplished.

Then I looked at the boat from the front. Something was not right.

When I placed a straight edge between the stem and stern post they did not match up with the center between the sides. The mast blocks are not centered over the keelson. They are off by 3.5 scale inches.

I was real tempted to chuck it and start over. But I have been thinking it over and even though I am disgusted that I did not discover the error sooner. I have to much invested just to toss it.
I am thinking that I can re-align the mast blocking so that the mast is straight. Hopefully it will not be obvious the the mast is off center by 3 inches.
So, I am looking for feed back here. Has anyone else had to deal with this? And Is this salvageable?
 
The big question is, can I live with this?

Patrick,
Thank you for stopping by and for your kind works. This being my first scratch build I am happy with how the planking has turned out. But the pictures do not show everything, there are gaps at the edges and some of the planks did not lay as flat as they should. The plank thicknesses are not uniform, so I have had to soften the edges of some with a chisel blade or else they would be trip hazard.
 
I am also working at 1:24 scale, not the small scale you work at. Patrick, your planking on that scale is amazing. 1:24 scale has some advantages. I believe the gaps are not as obvious as they are in smaller scales. The drawback I am finding, is that a lot of the detail that can be omitted at the smaller scale, would be noticed if missing at 1:24 scale. When I started I figured I could get this done in about a year. I have been working on this for 7 months (I did take 2 months off over the summer, so say 5 months actual working). I think I will be doing good to have started the deck planking when 1 year rolls around.
 
I am trying to plan out long term, so I will not have to rush to get supplies when I need them. There are several items that will need to scratch built.
Windlass Stove Coffee Pot ( You can't go to sea without Coffee) Winder (Dredging Winch) Dredge Rollers Oyster Dredge Dredge A-Frame Steering Mechanism 2 Lanterns Running Lights I have been on the look out for Items that would be useful in building those parts. I believe my best find was some decorative gears at the local Michaels Craft Store. I have picked up 2 sizes of wooden barrels, fish hooks with straight shanks and some assorted brass.

Hopefully I can use some of the gears in the winder and the windlass.

Here is a look at that "ear" piece.   Actually I am not entirely sure it can be called an "ear"  as it is only an extension of the molding.   But this is indeed what I came up with.   Taking a piece 1/16' thick I formed the piece.   Its shape was found playing around with a card template.   Then I transferred it to the wood.  Finally the same scraper I used on the molding was used on this piece.   Then a small length of molding was butt against it and continued aft.   This is as far as I am going until after I plank and treenail the other side.  I did however adjust some of the molding after seeing the pictures I posted yesterday.  Some of it had some minor dips and waviness.   I feel better now.  
 
Then I will add the stern post and move to the inboard details by planking the bulwarks etc.
 

 

 

 

 
Chuck

Funny you should mention those.  I didnt want to start treenailing the other side today.  I wanted to wait until after  Tuesday which is when I will get a chance to finish that planking.  So I added some of the fancy molding.  Those thin 1/16" wide strips were the first layer of what would become the fancy molding.  It was important to add them below the ports in a special order before the other planking above the wales could be done.  This would ensure a proper run of the planks and what would become the second layer of fancy molding.
 
I actually added that today.  They were made as you usually see them,  with a scraper.   I was very careful to make sure they were very thin.  One thing I notice is that folks tend to place molding on their models that is too thick.   The molding on the Cheerful is 1/16" wide but less than 1/32" thick.   I started with strips that were 1/32" thick and after scraping,  I thinned them down even more.  It makes for a more delicate look.   In hindsight,  I could have gone even thinner.
 
 
At the bow,   the lower molding will carry over onto the stem.  But it wont be as I show it in the fourth photo.  It should be thicker in the corner between the two so the transition is smooth.  But I have only lightly tacked it in this area to show you how it may actually look.   I will try and finish that up tomorrow and I will take more pictures.   My transition onto the stem with the molding was only a test to check the run of the molding and see how it looks.  I will do it for real maybe tomorrow.
 
Take a look at the contemporary model (last photo) and you will see a standard at the bow (not a molding strip)  that will look similar to how I will eventually do it.  That is the kind of transition onto the stem I am looking for.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Would be hard turning the small one loose.... But knowing it only takes $500 to send one kid to "Snowball Express" camp makes it easy. Sure hope it brings more than that at the auction.

Really surprised how quickly these little sculpie projects were completed. 
 

 
Just noticed, I still have to stick the little boomkin on.
 

 
Flags will finish them off.... then I've got to build a display base for the smaller one.
 

 
Note the difference in the white painting of the stern.  Although the smaller scale is more like the photo of the Mayflower II, I personally prefer the looks of the larger one. 

Anchors for both ships completed.
 

 
Note, the rings of the larger scale are seized, but I didn't add that little detail to the smaller one.

 
Also....Began painting the hull of the smaller ship this morning.  Looks like it will take at least three coats.

Hi everyone, especially Kevin, Lawrence, Piet, Michael and everyone who hit the Like button.
 
I've added a bit more detail to the main saloon, including the main settee, some cabinetry including a full height cabinet and the saloon's formal dining table. Still more work to go, though.
 
The latest photos are as follows.
 
Hope you like them!
 
All the best
 
Patrick

I am considering lying down to work as I will be close to all the bits and pieces that I drop.
When I have tried this out I will report back.
 
Mike.

Hello all,
Another update on the longboat, got all the bulkheads broken out, you can see the mess in the bow from the extra blocking I had installed and the repair on the busted ribs. Followed this with a good sanding/fairing of the interior of the boat, take care here...to aggressive and you'll break more ribs leading to more repair (yea... I know from experience).
 
Once I was happy with the sanded finish I moved on to the cap rail, here I deviated from the instructions and made the template with card stock instead of directly on the basswood, that way I could trace it out as many times as I needed to get it right and not mess up the kit supplied wood. Glad I did cause it took three tries to get something I was satisfied with. The patterns were then cut out and transferred to the basswood sheet. The rails were cut oversize and applied then sanded to the finished dimensions supplied in the instructions.
 
The 1/32 x 1/32 trim was applied next, I used a compass set to the correct dimension to provide a guideline on the hull. This was followed by more sanding and a coat of primer. The hull was set aside to dry...while waiting I made the fore and aft platforms following the practicum, I added some battens to the undersides though, just to add more strength. These were then sanded and notches filled to fit around the respective ribs. I'm debating whether to stain these pieces or just use an oil finish on them...haven’t decided yet...
 
That's all for now, as always thanks for your time and attention, Pic follow
THX
J

Hi all,
Time for another update...
The planking of the hull is complete and the bulkheads removed.
  Like my Half Moon log, I'm planning to share my successes and failures here for the benefit of anyone interested, so with that said...one of the things I did early on was to add some extra blocking to the bow area to help shaping and fairing the hull planks...and it worked great for that, unfortunately I didn't think about this being an open boat!! so now I've alot of cleanup in the bow area to do.
  Another point to watch is the garboard length, Chuck's instructions call for it to end just beyond the splice in the keel I ran mine a little long and had a bit of an issue with plank crowding at the bow.  I manage to get everything in place with tapering and spilling but made it a lot harder then it had to be!
   Care needs to be taken when your breaking out the bulkheads as they are fragile, I snapped off a few and will need to repair them.  The primary cause was glue seepage...I used CA all throughout this process and some had crept into the laser cut lines, I like CA but I do have problems with it, I'm always gluing my fingers to parts or not using enough to hold.
  I'm debating doing a full painted finish on the longboat...the decorations supplied with the kit are top notch, but I'd like my longboat to be a little different from all the others out there.  I'll keep some natural wood finishes on the inside...the thwarts and side-rails at least...still trying to decide on the color scheme, I'll post when I make up my mind...in the interim Pics follow, as always thanks for your time and interest.
THX
J