AON

Post 70
Rigging the Wheel
Steel indicates 3” circ line for the tiller lines which equates to a scale diameter of 0.37mm.
The kit plans suggest a 0.25mm line, but I am using 0.3mm Syren line.
I start on the Port side where the line meets the wheel drum on its forward end.
Sufficient line is required to complete the entire process.

4021a
I firstly secure the line to the aft deck eyebolt off-model. A false splice is used for neatness.

4023a
The line then runs to the tiller and back thro’ the deck blocks (in the correct sequence) and up to the wheel drum on the forward end.
Care needs to be taken to ensure the line is fed thro’ the correct hole in the blocks.
Three turns of the line around the drum, with a spot of ca at the centre of the third turn atop the drum.
Before this is done  the lines are checked for tautness  throughout the Port side set-up.
Given the length of the line care is also required when feeding it thro’, there are many snag points  on the surrounding fittings which may be dislodged if  caught when the line is pulled thro’.

4030a
I have used six turns  of line in total around the drum  because this best matched the block arrangement. It is a common novice mistake to wrap the line around the drum as many turns as it will take.
Five or six turns would be appropriate on smaller vessels, Victory had nine.

4029a
Must have been very annoying stepping over the tiller lines to gain access to the stern.
 
I last looked at the Binnacle in Post 54, but I’m no closer to a decision where or whether to place it.
It makes no sense to me to have a Binnacle where the Helmsman can’t see the compass, and a unit with a chimney without a lamp compartment.
I tried the double cabinet but the unit seems too close to the wheel and the viewing of the compasses is still obscured by the wheel.
My inclination is still that the small cabinet slightly offset to the side of the wheel is the practical option.
Being an important piece of kit it would be removed below deck in the event of an approaching action.

4033a
Small single Binnacles do feature in ships of the first quarter of the 19thc often one each side of the wheel, but I can’t find any examples of this cabinet style (above) positioned as it is.

4035a
Historical museum ships and some  contemporary models all show a centrally placed cabinet  before the wheel, but there is more space between the wheel and the cabinet; with Harpy the binnacle is hard against the wheel stanchion.

4036a

4039a
The Helmsman looks quite comfortable with the arrangement, but my dithering continues.....
 
B.E.
25/04/2025
 

I needed some more wood do out to the outside workshop to cut some stock and almost had an issue. So decided to make a rip jig for this saw. Strange as I never cut up small stock on this saw always on the Proxxon.  Here is the jig I made using Green heart and Juniper wood .i should have done this a long time ago.  Its nice to be able to make your own tools.

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

The radiators are now permanently connected to the model as are the copper air / fuel intakes.

Next up will be the exhaust pipes. Having them in place will make fitting the front radiator piping easier and is almost necessary before adding the coolant intake manifolds to the exterior of the cylinders.

Last bit of work for the day - the connections from the coolant pipes to the tank.

Glad to have these two pieces in place. I had worried about being able to make and install the returns so that they looked similar to those on the boat. I also was worried about drilling holes into the tank and the upper level of the coolant return since they were already in place. Same fear as cutting through planking for gunports! 
 
 

Coolant return piping in place:

Still need to connect them to the tank above. Not a lot of space left to work fuel lines in below the tank! Trying to make sure there remains some room to have the exhaust pipes pass across the engine block.

I had bought my pin vises (2) and number drill bits from McMaster-Carr.
I bought two pin vices because they came with a reversible chuck (larger shaft/small shaft) so I could have one set for each.
That ended up being a waste of money as they are easily reversed.
I bought a few bits that came in multiple quantities in envelops. The smallest of which are quite delicate and snap with the slightest side pressure (flex) if you do not choke up on them with the pin vise chuck.

Post 67
Carronade installation completed.

3946a
The port side installations went a little quicker than the starboard, but still took a full day.

3949a
An impressive set of teeth has Harpy.
Note the extra slackness of breeching line on the forward run-out carronades. It is a common error to show the lines too tight, which would not allow for recoil.

3954a
Then there are the Long guns….

3967a
The six pounders are quite small, here compared to the 12 pounder chasers on Indy.
I am a bit undecided how to display the long guns aboard Harpy.

3957a
With the guns run-out, those long barrels protruding rather destroys the otherwise symmetry of the broadside.
The effect would be reduced somewhat once the Channels are in place.

3958a
I could angle the bow chasers but that doesn’t hold a great appeal to me.

3959a
An alternative would be to secure alongside. This keeps the guns inboard and does have symmetry that appeals.

3963a
This arrangement, frees up space around the crowded area of the Foremast, Riding bitts, and Bowsprit step, as well as showing a different way to secure the guns.
I’ll ponder a while before deciding but I now have the pleasure of  installing all those deck fittings made earlier.
 
B.E.
21/04/2025

I had bought my pin vises (2) and number drill bits from McMaster-Carr.
I bought two pin vices because they came with a reversible chuck (larger shaft/small shaft) so I could have one set for each.
That ended up being a waste of money as they are easily reversed.
I bought a few bits that came in multiple quantities in envelops. The smallest of which are quite delicate and snap with the slightest side pressure (flex) if you do not choke up on them with the pin vise chuck.

I wonder how more experienced modelers manage the task?

Yes.
I took the subassemly to my belt sander and gradually created the taper from point to point, each side. 

I drew an imaginary line from B to D and from A to the Gripe horizontally opposite D and tapered the stem to these points along these lines. It made sense to me.

Post 66
Installing the guns.
I start at the stern on the Starboard side, I am  not then working over previously fitted guns. With the Port side guns  the opposite applies.
Given that I will be rigging the guns insitu rather than on an off-model jig I needed to work out the best approach.
I will have to use a slightly simplified method of seizing the breechings given the scale and the size of the line.
 
One of the main issues is folding the line once it has passed thro’ the bulwark ring, in order to seize it.

3927a
I used small sections of heat shrink tubing as sleeves to hold the return of the line whilst I seized it, initially close to the bulwark ring, and with a second seizing a little below it.
I use 0.1mm ø line for the purpose.

3938a
The seizings are painted with diluted pva to secure before trimming.

3932a
This is a tricky exercise to do not least because of the strain on  back and arms, I found sitting at my desk rather than working on my taller work bench worked best for me, but  I still needed a short break after each fitting.

3937a

3934a

3935a
I made the decision to add the breechings after I had fitted the bulwark fittings, but it would be better to rig them on a jig off- model.
This would allow a more authentic seizing of the lines, and would be far easier on the body.
I would certainly have used a jig were I intending to add the tackles, which on Harpy I am not.
 
Two days work to fit the starboard guns, onto the Port side.
That’s my Easter weekend sorted.
 
B.E.
19/04/2025
 

As long as it's not Mary I'd be happy to oblige.  

Next was the fitting the lower deck beams.
Fairly straightforward and the alignment "jig" helped, though awkward to use (need to clamp its parts in a specific sequence, I dropped parts of the contraption into the hull many times, etc).

Of course my deck clamps were not perfectly level to begin with, so some notches needed to be cut deeper than necessary to ensure a level deck.
A curved Vallorbe file came in really handy to tune the depth of some notches!

Once all beams were horizontal - the run of the deck was already quite fair, with only a minor adjustments to be done for a couple of beams.

I was worried it would be a never ending process of alignment (fixing one dimension just to re-align the other), but it was not that bad.
End result. Note the tiny gaps on the right side, I do not want beams to push into the frames on both ends to prevent any buckling or tilting due to the seasonal wood movement. The gap would be hidden by the inner planking on the right side, while allowing the hull to "breathe" a bit. 

My mind got carried away with plans for the deck structure, all the carlings and ledges, thinking how I would approach the construction. Marking up in situ? Making some paper template? Add temporary spacers to lift the deck in one "piece"? Use some rubber bands to firmly fix beams in position without drilling pin holes? 
Oh, right, that comes much later, I only did them to install pillars...  
I then remarked the true centerline using a string and placed these two test pillars under a beam.
To my horror the beams standing on the keelson looked clearly off-center! The centerline string was already removed by that point, so I pulled two strings for a quick illustration.

After careful checks the reason was found - the keelson is not perfectly level and is glued slightly tilted, resulting in a skewed pillar if you just place it on top. No big deal, can be easily compensated for. Luckily there is no issue with an off-center keelson or an incorrect hull shape. Always a bit scared of finding some critical mistake done 10 years ago... 🫣 

Regarding the jogging.  If anybody sees me out jogging, PLEASE kill whatever is chasing me!

I would prefer to learn from someone else's mistakes except I just don't seem to remember them as well as those I make myself.
 
Since I told one person (and the cat is out of the bag), I have gotten past my damaged pride and so can tell everyone.
 
I got to a point where I could actually put a gun on the gun beam and see it poke through the gun port.
The problem was it didn't.  The deck was too high. (note the past tense)
 
I double checked my scale on the 3D gun models and compared to the 3D printed guns. Perfect.
I double checked the dimensions of the model to the reference material dimensions. Perfect.
I checked the height of the deck.... and there it was.
I had measured from the underside of the keel to the top of the deck beam, not the underside.
This made my clamp location too high, hence the deck being too high.
 
I tore out the gun deck, and since lowering the gun deck makes the gap to the orlop deck too small... I tore it out also.
Sanded everything yesterday and recalculated and proved the new deck height today.
Orlop and gun deck clamps going back in today, then I get a "do over".
 
Up side: I guess I am not a novice in this area of the build anymore so my results should be more pleasing to the eye.
Now I am away until after my "new" anchor cable riding bitts are installed.
 
 

Installed the riding bits (glued in place) with the cross piece eyes and hooks on both sides of the bitt pins, and the standards on the forward riding bitts.
I need to install the carlings and ledge beams before I can put the forward riding bitt standards in place.
Then I came make the two small ventilation scuttles.

Bitts dry fitted to gun deck beams and cross pieces glued to bitts.
Presently working on the cross bitt hooks and the standard knees.
 

A picture is worth 1000 words!
The plan showing the lower cleat and the forward pin bevelled on the forward (right) side whereas the aft pin is bevelled on the aft (left) side per all other references
A photo of my parts to date.

Presently working on the gun deck riding bitts.
The plan shows the bitt pins, cross beam, upper cleats (below the gun deck beams) and lower cleats (below the orlop deck beams) and standards (knees).
The contract only mentions the upper cleats as do all other references (books).
The plan also shows the tapering of the bitt pins but the forward pins are tapered opposite to the aft pins and all other references (books).
As it doesn't make sense to taper the forward side of the forward pins as this makes it not set into the orlop beam, I didn't do this.
 
Presently the cross beams are cut and the elm backing piece is glued on.  As I haven't any major pieces of Castello left I am now using Pau Marfim (Pau Amarello) wood stock. It is lighter in colour so I found some small pieces of castello to use for contrast as the elm, hence the light and dark pieces. The ends have since been trimmed back.

The bitt pins are all made, notched to fit into the deck beam by 2" (0.03" at 1:64), and the head has been chamfered 0.03" at 45°.
The (upper) cleats are made, and with the pins dry clamped to the deck beams, the cleats were glued and clamped to the pins.
I needed to use my spring loaded tweezers to get them in, and again to get a clothes pin in to clamp them on to dry. My fingers wouldn't fit in the space.

Still some work to do to finish these off. There is some shaping to the pins and cross pieces to be done where the anchor cable is meant to wrap around them. Then I have to make the standards and some wire hooks and eyes for the cross beams.
 
I have a problem with how the ledge beams and carlings are supported. The contract reads the carlings are under the standards. I  imagine a block was added  to the aft face of the bitt pin for the carling to rest on... or the bitt pin had another notch in it to receive the carling. The latter makes it difficult to bolt the bitt pin to the deck beam through the aft face. I think I'll be adding support blocks.
 

Then I turned to installing my bowsprit step. It is supported on the gun deck beam forward of the partner and the upper deck beam above. I needed one upper deck beam to set it at the correct angle assuring the foremast would be clear of it all. The beam is 12” high and 14” deep with a 7-1/2” rise.
 
Some stock was cut and sanded to thickness. The card stock template was traced on one end of the stock to outline the beam and I cut most of the waste away on the band saw. Using a “resting block” to assist in holding the stock parallel to the sanding drum and at a right angle to the base plate, I slowly sanded the stock to the line and finish up with a sanding block. The individual beams were cut from the shaped stock.
 

The beam was cut to length to fit the location. After considerable time and fuss to once again get the alignment correct, eyeballing the bowsprit from stern centre counter timber to the knight heads at the stem, the beam was notched to receive the bowsprit step. In the image below the assembly was temporarily glued with small drops of PVA, clamped and allowed to dry up for a final alignment check.

 
Moving aft, I will next be installing the bitt pins, cross pieces, standards to the bitts and a couple of small scuttle coamings… along with more lodging and hanging knees and ledge beams. I also see in the contract that there were twelve standards (standard knees) on each side of the gun deck. These go between select gunports on top of deck beams.
 

The orlop deck beams have all been preinstalled.
No hump this time!
Tomorrow I'll mark the centerline and the carling locations, then remove the beams and begin notching them
 

Slowly getting my deck clamps in after a few more health concerns (all better presently).
Working on the quarter deck/waist/forecastle clamps that support the deck beams.

My first photo is locating the deck height using my gun carriage assembly to get it to look correct.
The height of the deck is measured using the device I made to originally mark my heights (but I marked the top of the beam instead of the bottom!).
Then comes the math... using the contract to get the deck plank thickness and deck beam height and subtracting these from the height measured.
That locates the height of the top of my clamp.
This I double check to the plan measurements.... close enough!
Now I calculate the difference to the height of the top of the lower cill of the gun port.
This is the width (height) of the spacer needed.

Next I made my spacer, thin flexible maple, and clamped it to the hull (red nosed clamps), locating the top edge to the top of the gun port lower cill.
My deck clamp was glued and clamped (blue nosed clamps) while butted up against the spacer.
You can see the other deck clamps below.
I've got two more sections to install per side at this level, the last piece needs to be steamed to fit at the bow.
Then is the roundhouse or poop deck clamps and then I can start putting the decks back in.
 
Photo below... you can never have enough clamps.

Completed the painting of all 28 x 32 Pdr carriages and the assembly of one.
 
Carriage painting was done with brushes. Three coats of yellow ochre and then spots with black.
Could have used younger, steadier hands for the fine black touch ups... but it look fine from 12" away. The camera hides nothing!
The cannon was spray painted with acrylic flat black some time ago, multiple coats.
I tried highlighting the reinforcing rings and royal cypher with a smokey grey but it made a mess as it is all so tiny.
 
The cap square is card stock blackened with a permanent marker. The one end is curled over itself.
The cap square chain is simply black sewing thread. I tried a finger knitted chain stitch,  which look quite good until set up to the carriage and it was about 3X too large for the scale.
 
The eye bolts and breech ring are made with 0.02" (5mm) copper wire, the proper scale.
The breech rope ID (0.1") is correct but the eye loop (0.06") is larger than it should be as this was the size I was comfortable with.
Eye bolts were twisted over a 14 AWG copper wire (0.06" dia) ... I do not have a 1/16" drill bit to use for this.
The breech ring was coiled over a 7/64th drill bit, multiple wraps and then cut with hobby snips to produce multiple coils at once.
They were soft soldered 60/40 (% tin/lead) solder.
The eye loops and rings were blackened with a permanent marker.
 
I used Weldbond, water based PVA glue to assemble all the parts. It dries crystal clear.
 
The quoin handle was made from a small diameter maple dowel, sanded down while mounted on the drill press and then pulled through a draw plate.
All holes in the carriage were pilot holes and needed to be opened up for the twisted wire eye bolt stubs and quoin handle.
 
Presently, I have all the breech rope rings (54 ea) made and soldered. Going to start on the (189 ea) eye bolts next.