Pride of Baltimore II by jcoby - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[jcoby]

This is the third time posting this build log here. Hopefully this one doesn't get deleted  :mellow:

 

I started the build Jan 2 2013. I have 40-50 hours in it at this point.

 

planking begins

 

planking completed. unsanded.

 

coamings installed and painted.

 

deck planking begins

 

deck planking completed

 

bulwark stanchions installed

 

bulwark completed

 

[jcoby]

main mast mocked up and installed. it's amazing these ships even work with that much sail area.

 

top rail installed. sides of the rail need the stain touched up where I adjusted the fit. the rail at the transom will have to wait until I get the transom trim installed.

[Gyber]

Third time is the charm. Your build is looking great. I like seeming the working ship models, and I will look forward to your log. Robert

[jcoby]

I struggled with whether I should detail it as a working ship or on the building ways. In the interest of time and inexperience (this is my first wooden ship model) I decided to go with the cleaner as-built style.

 

It is nice to be able to bring up pictures on the Internet instead of having to do hours of research!

 

The Niagra was my first choice actually but MS was out of stock when I ordered so I went with the Pride. I really like the lines of clippers.

[jcoby]

Work is progressing, slowly. I'm finding that I don't enjoy this phase of the build very much. Everything seems to depend on something else getting built or bought or painted. And what can be built is ambiguous. I'm trying my best to slog through it all and get to the point where it feels like I'm doing something productive again.

 

For example to install the bowsprit I need to: install the winch and bitts and add banding/blocks and do final painting on the bowsprit. To install the winch I need to paint the white metal casting. And fabricate the housing. To add the banding I need to get some blackening solution and silver solder paste. Not to mention that I don't know how to make some of the details it calls for. 

 

The bitts give me trouble. They're 1/8" square and need to have a bevel on top and a chamfer and lark's tongue shaped on each edge. The basswood does not like to hold sharp detail at that small of a scale. I'm thinking of leaving off the edge detail unless I can find a solution.

 

So I finished installing the top rail. I need to add a couple pieces to the bow area and do final sanding/staining but the rail itself is in place and to size. I did the joint at the transom piece a little differently than the plans show but it's barely visible and saved me an hour of work. I can retrofit the fillet piece if I feel like it later with a couple cuts on each corner.

 

 

The fancy piece at the transom is installed as well. It has not been final shaped yet, giving it an asymmetric appearance. The paint was applied just to get the edge painted. I will sand to final width when I add the side fashion pieces and a second piece of trim at the transom. The final painting will happen when I paint the hull.

 

 

I also started on the main boom. It has been shaped to size and sheaves simulated. I need to add some bands, add the fork, and do final staining/painting/top coat. I work on the masting here and there because I'll probably go crazy if I had to do it all at once! It is satisfying to make shavings instead of dust though.

 

I need to either pick up some silver solder paste and blacken-it or just resolve myself to painting the brass. I'm not real keen on painting brass though.

 

[bhermann]

She is coming along nicely. About that "this depends on this, which requires that..." - you have discovered the true joy of model ship building - this is a theme you will repeat over and over again through almost every phase of the build!

 

Bob

[jcoby]

She is coming along nicely. About that "this depends on this, which requires that..." - you have discovered the true joy of model ship building - this is a theme you will repeat over and over again through almost every phase of the build!

 

Bob

 

Ha, yeah. The planking was tedious but rewarding. With the deck furniture I work with little bits of wood that turn into little boxes. Or little bits of wood that become even smaller bits of wood. Everything is so small and fiddly.

 

I found myself studying the plans looking for a good place to start. After an hour I would give up and go back upstairs. In software we call this "analysis paralysis" and the cure is to just pick something and work on it.

 

So my goal for every night is to get something (anything) done! it could be as small as touching up paint or as large as building a mast. At least progress is being made.

[PageT]

Jcoby

  I like how you framed in the comings prior to adding the deck.  Trying to install the comings and paint them while building the actual deck steructgure is really taking alot of time and frustration  in the detailed painting.  Too late for me now with my Pride but on my next build I will use this technique.  Your Pride looks great.  I have finished planking-installed the bulwarks-Transom and finished all of the deck structures.  I am now painting them along with the bulwarks and planksheer. I think I should have painted as I went along as it is real hard now to get into tight areas without overlapping the paint.  Someone told me you could not paint an item before you glued it as the glue would stick to the paint and not the structure.  Still I am enjoying the build and getting back into modeling after 30 years.

PageT

Cumberland, Md

[capnharv2]

Jcoby,

 

Yes, the big visual changes are done for a while. Your point about doing a little bit every night is good. I also suggest looking at your list of things to do on the deck, and build and install everything that is not dependant on something else. I believe some of the cabin structures can be added now. The other thing is to build up all the hardware that goes on the deck, but don't install it. That way, if you have a sequence of installations to do, you can dry fit them and see what needs adjusting. If something is completely off, well, it's only wood and time. Many of us have built/re-built/re-built/rebuilt something on our models that just didn't look right.

 

You have a good start and a sharp looking model. I'm now looking forward to my Pride of Baltimore 2.0.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[Timothy Wood]

A very nice job, keep up the good work! I have the same kit but havn't started it yet I need to get a little more build tome under my belt so to speak! I spent a week out in the Pride II back in the early 2000's, went from Baltimore, MD to Newport, RI. Needless to say it was a fantastic trip, if you get the chance to sail on her even for a day do so! The photo is ofmyself at the helm of the Pride II. I look foreard to following your build!

 

Cheers,

Tim

[jcoby]

Jcoby

  I like how you framed in the comings prior to adding the deck.  Trying to install the comings and paint them while building the actual deck steructgure is really taking alot of time and frustration  in the detailed painting.  Too late for me now with my Pride but on my next build I will use this technique.  Your Pride looks great.  I have finished planking-installed the bulwarks-Transom and finished all of the deck structures.  I am now painting them along with the bulwarks and planksheer. I think I should have painted as I went along as it is real hard now to get into tight areas without overlapping the paint.  Someone told me you could not paint an item before you glued it as the glue would stick to the paint and not the structure.  Still I am enjoying the build and getting back into modeling after 30 years.

PageT

Cumberland, Md

 

The instructions gave the option of installing the coamings first or after the planking. With some gentle prodding from Russ I installed them first. It's quite a bit of work to get them installed and level but it beats trying to sand them to fit later. I actually missed one coaming at the aft. Luckily it was small and easy to shape to fit. I do wish that I had installed the mounts for the winch and bitts/fife rails before planking as well. I will have to cut the deck to install them. 

 

Re: paint. I try to paint everything before installing it. That allows me to mount it to a stick so it can be held easier and I don't have to work around other things. Wherever the part gets glued stays unpainted and any paint on the glue joint gets scraped off. Usually a little touchup is required after installation as well.

 

 

 

 

Jcoby,

 

Yes, the big visual changes are done for a while. Your point about doing a little bit every night is good. I also suggest looking at your list of things to do on the deck, and build and install everything that is not dependant on something else. I believe some of the cabin structures can be added now. The other thing is to build up all the hardware that goes on the deck, but don't install it. That way, if you have a sequence of installations to do, you can dry fit them and see what needs adjusting. If something is completely off, well, it's only wood and time. Many of us have built/re-built/re-built/rebuilt something on our models that just didn't look right.

 

You have a good start and a sharp looking model. I'm now looking forward to my Pride of Baltimore 2.0.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

 

I'm working on the samson posts now. It seems like everything at the bow is dependent on them. I have built the wheel house and aft hatch. Binnacle is next. So I've sort of been working my way from the ends inward.

 

I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out how the structure over the galley is built. I forget exactly what it's called. I'll take a picture of the plans; maybe someone here can help. It's planked but the two ends aren't the same. I'm just not sure how it's supposed to look.

 

 

A very nice job, keep up the good work! I have the same kit but havn't started it yet I need to get a little more build tome under my belt so to speak! I spent a week out in the Pride II back in the early 2000's, went from Baltimore, MD to Newport, RI. Needless to say it was a fantastic trip, if you get the chance to sail on her even for a day do so! The photo is ofmyself at the helm of the Pride II. I look foreard to following your build!

 

Cheers,

Tim

 

Thanks! I have family in Baltimore. If I ever make it back up there I'll at least try to visit it. I'm pretty sure I saw it sometime in the early 90s but I barely remember it. I've never been on a sailboat or ship; must have been quite an experience.

 

This is my "first" build and I haven't found anything super difficult yet. Anything that I have questions about generally I can find answers to here. The only real ambiguity has been with the top rail and bulwark stanchions. In both cases I just sort of made them look right. The top rail doesn't match the plans exactly correctly at the bow. It's about 1/8" too long and is too pointy. I'm hoping it won't matter too much as it would be impossible to fix now.

 

I have tried building POF models two times before. The first one caught fire under not-so-mysterious conditions. The second one almost met the same fate. I decided to get a Model Shipways model after being able to read the instructions online. They aren't perfect but they're significantly better than the other two kits I tried.

Edited March 14, 2013 by jcoby

[Elia]

Jcoby,

 

It is good to see your build log again!  Really nice work here.

 

Elia

[jcoby]

Started working on the samson posts. I'm not real happy with the result. I cannot seem to make those chamfers even. If anyone has suggestions on how to make them I'm all ears.

 

 

Here is the picture of the after cabin trunk plans. I don't really understand what it's supposed to look like. The top is planked & caulked. I don't understand how that structure with the rounded top and slide out panel is supposed to attach. Especially since the fore and aft profiles don't match.

 

This is the largest deck structure so I want to get it right.

 

[bhermann]

That photo of the samson post looks pretty good from here.  All I can say on that one is practice, practice, practice.

 

The structure with the slide-out panel is a hatchway to belowdecks.  The top of it either lifts up on a hinge or slides toward the fore end of the cabin.  The slide-out piece is then removed and you can step over the cabin wall to go below.  You really need at least one more angle to get the full picture.  Bluenose has a side view in the plans labeled "View at Center-line" that shows this.  I am including photos of the analogous object from my build.  It has a door instead of a sliding panel and the hatch cover is a slider.  It isn't an exact match but it might help clarify the usage somewhat.

 

 

 

Bob

 

 

[jcoby]

That's a huge help, thank you.

 

I also found this picture on flickr that matches with what you show:

 

 

Pride of Baltimore II 39 by ameiss, on Flickr

 

The instructions seemed to indicate that the sliding structure was added after the planking but it obviously needs to be installed first.

[capnharv2]

Yep, you're on the right track now. The plans should have a view looking down that should also identify the location of the sliding hatch and doors, the engine hatch and the skylight.

 

The Pride of Baltimore 2 website should have more deck pictures. That, or a web search will help.

 

And you're correct on the bow. The samson post dictates the bowsprit and windlass location.

 

Regarding the samson post chamfers, here's an idea (I haven't tried it, so I don't know if it will work). On full size chamfers, we mark a line a certain distance from the edge, but parallel to the edge. You should be able to duplicate it using a .5mm mechanical pencil. Extend the lead to the width you want on top and draw with the side of the lead on the top of the post. You should get a shaded rectangle on the top. Do the same on each side(extend the lead for how far down as you want the chamfer to go and use the side of the lead again) and remove the shaded areas (probably with sandpaper). You might also consider using something harder than basswood for the samson post. Basswood is easy to work with, but it gets soft and fuzzy. Try a piece of cherry cut to the same dimensions and you may have better luck.

 

But your existing samson post looks pretty good to me.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[PageT]

Jocoby

I am now rigging my Pride. All is done except that. Pretty satisfied with my model so far after thirty years of not doing any modeling. Made a few mistakes "Earl Shived" them. Rigging is hard for me due to fat arthhetic fingers. I am using Bob Laucks forum for my build and it has helped me alot especially neew ways to build. I think he should incorporate your building the frames to the deck furniture before decking as you did. Looking forward to finishing the Pride mid summer. I think I need to build my next ship to a larger scale 1:76 to 1:90 so I can manipulate and see the deadeyes and parts better. I am ok with the building of the keel, etc. planking-masts and yards just the small items. When I am done I will post a photo of my Pride. Good luck and your Pride looks reeeeal good!

Page

[capnharv2]

Page,

Are you sure you want to go to 1:76 or smaller scale? If you're having trouble with small rigging details, you probably want to go to something like 1:48.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[jcoby]

Jocoby

I am now rigging my Pride. All is done except that. Pretty satisfied with my model so far after thirty years of not doing any modeling. Made a few mistakes "Earl Shived" them. Rigging is hard for me due to fat arthhetic fingers. I am using Bob Laucks forum for my build and it has helped me alot especially neew ways to build. I think he should incorporate your building the frames to the deck furniture before decking as you did. Looking forward to finishing the Pride mid summer. I think I need to build my next ship to a larger scale 1:76 to 1:90 so I can manipulate and see the deadeyes and parts better. I am ok with the building of the keel, etc. planking-masts and yards just the small items. When I am done I will post a photo of my Pride. Good luck and your Pride looks reeeeal good!

Page

 

The coamings were called out to be put in before the deck as an optional step in the plans. Even though it took a couple hours to build and install them, I feel it made installing the deck quite a bit easier. And it was far easier to paint them first.

 

I've been working on the Pride but very slowly. It's warm now and I've been spending most of my free time in the garage working with metal. I have built the frame for the hatch. I still need to make the verticals before I start planking the top.

 

And as capnharv2 said, smaller numbers are bigger scale. 1:76 or 1:90 is tiny unless you are working on a huge ship.

[Timothy Wood]

I look forward to seeing her with all the "rigging"....

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

[Timothy Wood]

_{I have some photos of the Pride II, I'll see if I can dig them up for you!}

 

_Cheers,

_Tim

[jcoby]

Well it's finally cold enough to get me out of the garage and back into the basement to start again on the Pride.

 

I resumed working on the after cabin trunk. This thing has been a major pain mostly because I do not really know how ships are built. Many thanks to bhermann for posting pictures.

 

I spent about two hours planking the top of the after cabin only to find out that one side had become about 1/2 strip more narrow than the other. That was far too much for me and would have caused the edge moulding to look very lopsided. So at about 1am I cut it off and went to bed.

 

I then decided to build the top of the after cabin as a single sheet on top of a piece of wax paper and then set it as a unit. This came out much, much better. It isn't exactly to the plans, I think it's about 0.032" too wide or so but it is fairly pleasing to the eye with an even reveal around the entire perimeter. 

 

I still need to add the hatches and trim but I am happy with the result so far.

 

 

 

I also spent some time reworking the bowsprit cap. The plans call for the jibboom to be 11/64" max at the cap but the hole in the cap was about 1/32 too large. Originally I made the jibboom to match the cap but it looked clunky and out of scale. So I had to remake the cap. I am much happier with the result.

 

 

The jib boom still needs a bit more work to get it absolutely straight and true and to thin it out but all in all it has better proportions. 

 

 

I am struggling with understanding how to do the hardware that holds the dolphin striker and jibboom guy spreader. I will make the iron band out of either construction paper or brass but I have no clue on how to do the eyebolts. These pieces will be under compression so they need to have some rigidity but they also need to move freely. I don't even know how to mount and eye bolt to the spreaders at only 3/64" dia.

 

I also don't know how to make the iron ring that goes under the bee. The kit doesn't come with brass wide enough to make the iron band nor does it come with bobstays.

 

 

Also the forum apparently hates portrait pictures.

Edited December 2, 2013 by jcoby

[Bill Hime]

Hey jcoby!

 

I love the build! Nice log too. It's great to have someone else here that's building the Pride. Thanks for forging a path. I saw where you were having problems with Basswood fuzzing out on small details. That's why I'm using woods like Rosewood, Cherry, or Pear for detail parts. They hold sharp edges and are easy to work with chisels and files

I've learned a lot just looking through your log. I'll definitely follow along! Please feel welcome to comment/suggest on my log anytime!

 

 

Bill

[jcoby]

Hey jcoby!

 

I love the build! Nice log too. It's great to have someone else here that's building the Pride. Thanks for forging a path. I saw where you were having problems with Basswood fuzzing out on small details. That's why I'm using woods like Rosewood, Cherry, or Pear for detail parts. They hold sharp edges and are easy to work with chisels and files

I've learned a lot just looking through your log. I'll definitely follow along! Please feel welcome to comment/suggest on my log anytime!

 

 

Bill

 

This is actually the third time I posted the build. The first two had much more detail and I didn't feel like reposting all of that content. I followed your build and will post some pics as you get there. The planksheer and wale stanchions gave me about the most trouble during the build.

 

The basswood is a bit soft for detail. I may have to grab some harder woods for some of the detail parts. The bitts in particular are making me mad. I've probably put down 4" of chamfers 3/16" at a time on a sample piece and I have yet to get a good sharp chamfer consistently. I've tried scraping, cutting, sanding and I cannot get a consistent chamfer. I have some dogwood that I've been playing with. The grain is tight but it's a bit stringy to work with. I'd love to be able to afford boxwood. I cannot justify it though since I will be staining/painting according to the plans.

 

However the basswood does OK for the planking especially after a sand to 400. I can't say it's a very attractive wood but it comes out OK. The variation in coloration initially discouraged me but I like it after it's been stained. Gives the deck some "life."

[jcoby]

Work continues on the after cabin trunk.

 

First I built the framing for the hatch. I built it with square pieces and will true them later. Everything got a coat of mahogany stain.

 

 

I took the downtime to install the mouldings.

 

 

An hour or so later I trued up the hatch frame using a sharp chisel and a sanding block. I cut some black construction paper to act as the padding and glued everything into place. I then installed the fore section of the hatch frame.

 

The hatch frame is now complete minus some touchup work to the stain and paint.

 

It is probably too thick to be to scale at 1/32" (2" full size) but I did not want to work with thinner materials on such a delicate part. It doesn't look terribly out of place on the model to my untrained eye.

 

There are no dimensions or even full drawings of the hatch so I'm sort of just making it look right. I'm within 0.020" wherever I can be on the drawings.

 

 

From here I need to build the sliding top that rides on the rails on the frame. It will be fixed in the closed position although it is tempting to leave it open a bit since I have the opening there already.

[jcoby]

After cabin hatch is complete. The harsh light I use makes it look worse than it does in person. The mahogany stain is too dark but it's consistent across the whole ship. I would definitely use a lighter stain doing it over again. I have some actual mahogany but it's far too coarsely grained to work at scale.

 

 

I decided to do a test chamfer with some dogwood. First impressions are that this is a very hard, straight grained, and dense wood that takes a very fine and shiny finish. Also that I am not setup to work with hard woods. Most of my kit is setup for soft woods. Even my super sharp chisel has trouble slicing through the wood but it does so very cleanly.

 

I will mill up some 1/8" strips on the bandsaw and see if I can get a passable bitt out of it.

 

[capnharv2]

Hi jcoby,

 

That is one gorgeous build you've got going!

 

For the dolphin striker and jibboom spreaders, I recommend putting 2 small eyebolts together. Insert the end of one eyebolt in the cap and the end of the other eyebolt into the end of the striker/spreader.

 

For the iron bands, I would wrap paper, brass or copper sheet/foil around the bowsprit, then drill holes thru it to attach the bullseyes.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[jcoby]

Hi jcoby,

 

That is one gorgeous build you've got going!

 

For the dolphin striker and jibboom spreaders, I recommend putting 2 small eyebolts together. Insert the end of one eyebolt in the cap and the end of the other eyebolt into the end of the striker/spreader.

 

For the iron bands, I would wrap paper, brass or copper sheet/foil around the bowsprit, then drill holes thru it to attach the bullseyes.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

 

The plans call for eyebolts but I thought it was calling for the pre-made ones that come with the kit. Using those would allow for too much gap and everything would rattle around.

 

If I make some out of the brass wire stock I can close them up tight and they will be able to handle the compression stress easily. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

I plan on going to the local hobby store and picking up some brass sheet to make the bands in the next few days.

 

At this point I'm trying my best to find things to do to avoid building deck furniture. I really do not enjoy building deck furniture. I'm looking forward to rigging.

[jcoby]

Yesterday seemed to be one of those days when nothing goes right.

 

So instead of trying to finish the after cabin skylight and bell I decided to paint the box that goes just fore of the after cabin trunk. It will receive a mahogany top and two vent stacks and will stand on two legs.

 

 

I then stained the main mast and painted the main boom. The main boom needs a few more cleats and eyelets added before I can seal it up with wipe-on poly.

 

 

Every time I set another piece of the masts I'm amazed at how much sail area she has. There is a ring tail boom that extends out another 3" aft that I still need to make.

 

On several areas the masts call for 0.008" wires about 3/8" long. I assume they're for belaying or for routing lines. This wire is not included in the kit. I don't know if I can get brass that thin and I'm worried that if I use steel it will rust. Yet another thing I need to figure out before I can mark any one piece of the ship as finished.

[Bill Hime]

Hey jcoby,

 

Nice consistent work. You seem to always come up with good end solutions for troubling problems. Great thing about ship modeling, there is always something to work on while taking a break from unresolved issues

 

 

Bill